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salad-bowl-finish-for-wood-light Makes Excellent Finish I have used this on 5 salad bowls and every one loves the finish. It is designed to penetrate into and protect the wood bowl surface. Fo James, Thanks for the question. Liht has the same problem with chipping but is it toxic? Rust on July 21, It wears well— FDA approved I believe— also I have used it on cutting boards but no as a cutting surface a serving surface and has outstanding gloss —spoons should wear well—several coats making sure dry times— saturating deep in the grain of the wood. I appreciate your thoughts. Super blond shellac in flake form is the most salad bowl finish for wood light resistant variety.

I purchased two quarts in April, The first quart was the same as always, great. The second can was obviously different, a weird smell and much yellower in color. I went ahead and finished six items, but two days later they were still soft and not completely dry. Woodcraft happily exchanged the can, but the results were the same. I had to use mineral spirits to strip off the finish, both the first and second groups of items were still too soft to sand. I tried to contact General Finishes, but there was no contact info for them.

I use this salad bowl finish on all my turned products that are intended to be used with food. The finish is smooth, shiny and has the appeal of safety for use with food. Looks great. I am a beginner. Never used a sander before. My countertops look fantastic!! Very happy with this product. Nice thin finish. Much better than the varnish that was on the butcherblock before. For small wood pruducts that I make in my workshop.

I use Salad Bowl finish on kids tables and cutting boards. Easy to apply and dries smooth, very little sanding is needed. Brings out the grian and deepens the color of the wood. After two coats you don't need to add anything.

The one area I don't like is the price, it could be a little cheaper, other than the price, it's a great product. This is a great product for applying to bowls of any size. It provides a nice looking food safe finish. I have made several bowls and canister sets and love this product. I like doing art work on wood and the Salad Bowl Finish is food safe and Salad Bowl Finish For Wood Tree opens a new way for me to make the art work "useful". I can use it on serving pieces as well as the bowls.

I like bowls most as you can use your own thoughts in the design of bowls, and this finish give nice completion to bowls. I like this product for my bowls and the application while they are on the lathe.

It evenly distributes and is food safe My husband and I use this finish on our bread boards and it is a wonderful product. Goes on smoothly and dries to a great shine. Only problem with this is, after a certain amount of time, it darkens and starts to harden up.

We only make bread boards for friends and family and only a few at a time and something needs to be done to improve the quality so this would not happen. This is a great product for wood projects that will come in contact with food. I find it very similar to tongue oil in consistency and use.

Been using this product for cutting boards for a few years, much better than mineral oil. I checked with many paint stores, and nobody could tell me a food safe finish. When calling your information line I was immediately directed to this product.

Teak tends to be overpriced and I personally find it hard to determine if a bamboo product is safely processed given how many brands are out there. And lastly, then I will shut up and listen… lol I read an article that is really bothering me.

Is this correct? Is this guy bonkers? I know that wooden kitchenware needs to be treated regularly with oil, not soaked in water or dishwasher, … but carry bacteria? Would I retreat occasionally? The Tried and True Original can be applied once and will last a long time. Tried and True Danish can be applied with multiple layers like the mineral oil to saturate the wood.

Interesting take on wood. I have actually heard the opposite. Wood has anti-bacterial properties and is safe for food, safer than some other materials. Film finishes, like lacquer, can be bad for bacteria if they chip and food or debris gets in and under the cracked area, they can develop bacteria.

But oiled boards are fine. For the final buffing stage with Tried and True, do you think Scotchbrite non woven pad could be used in place of steel wool? The pad is rated at The finish should rise from a dull to semi-luster when the surface is burnished. Perhaps, try both and see if the Scotchbrite is similar.

My guess is, the results will be similar. Do you happen to know of another finish that I might investigate and use? I hope this is the product I need. I have a huge vintage Dansk teak salad bowl.

It looks beautiful but the salad dressing leaks out. The seams are not obviously separated, but the leak is substantial. Would this product seal the seams? Thank you so much for sharing your expertise. If there is a visible gap or crack, that would need to be repaired. However, you could also be referring to leaking through end-grain. If the wood is porous enough, you could have leaking through the end grain fibers. Yes, Tried and True Original with linseed oil and beeswax will begin to fill some of that porous area.

I am hoping that the Tried and True will be a nice finish. They do not have a dishwasher, so my only concern is that they do their dishes once a day in the evening, the rest of the time the dirty dishes are left in a water tub to soak. Sounds pretty cool, CNC printed cups and bowls. Wood is a celluous structure that absorbs and sheds moisture all the time and soaking will ruin the wood over time. The Tried and True Original, which has beeswax, will repel some water, but it is not waterproof.

Thanks so much for the article. I am working on refinishing an outdoor wood table that would need to be food-safe. Would this be a good product to seal it with following wood stain? Any guidance is greatly appreciated. Thank you! Yes, you can apply Tried and True over a wood stain.

Thanks for a great article. I have 2 questions. Someone even said that it is the consistency of honey. Does it flow on evenly and easily or is it thick and sticky?

I need something that I can get into nooks, crannies, and crevices and then be able to wipe off the excess. Also, I made up my own beeswax and stand oil heated linseed oil wood finish, as recommended by Chris Schwarz…1 part beeswax to 4 parts stand oil. It gives a nice finish on flat pieces of wood, but is too hard and stiff for my needs detail work.

Have you ever worked with or made this type of finish and if so how could I thin it down and soften it to make it more suitable to my needs without introducing turpentine or another solvent? Again, thanks for a great article and any advice you could give would be greatly appreciated. Jim Hipp. See this video of mine to view the application.

If you are seeing the product on the wood, you have applied enough. Then you wipe any thick areas off after an hour. And after hours come back and buff it out with a clean cloth. I use this product on delicate thin turned pieces and it works great. Thanks Kent…. From the video, it looks like this finish is probably a good consistency for my carvings. Thanks again….. I use them interchangeably and they blend perfectly. The finish will add a bit of warm color to the wood.

My son in law is making a small table for my grandchildren to eat on when they are at my house. I need something to put on the wood to keep it looking nice in the face of, well, grandchildren eating and playing on it! Will this product work or is there something different I should use?

I have been researching but frankly I am starting to get confused. I am also a novice at doing this kind of project. Thanks in advance for your help. Yes, this product will work great. Also, if the grandchildren damage the wood somehow, simply sand out the damaged area and reapply this finish.

It will blend in and match without any effort. Hopefully, the grandkids will be kind. Can I spray lacquer over tried and true?

This does not have to be food safe for the use intended. Thank you. Tried and True is an oil-based product that soaks into the wood. Because of this, the surface will not shine or appear glossy. In order to appear glossy, micropores and crevasses needed to filled and made smooth so the surface reflects light. The best way to get a glossy finish is to apply several thin layers of lacquer. You can apply lacquer over Tried and True Danish linseed only Oil without any problems.

I have sprayed it over Tried and True original and have had good results for the most part. However, the beeswax can potentially repeal the lacquer. Here are a few comments that might help. You read that right. It is no joke. Some people keep a jar of water nearby and put the finish-soaked rags in the water.

The problem with that is how do you dispose of the finish-water in a responsible way? Sure Tried and True may be okay, but what about other oil finishes with metallic driers or other undesirable chemicals? My solution is to put the oily rags outside on an isolated paving stone, put a rock on them to hold them down.

Leave the rags for several days until they are completely dry, then put them in the trash. You can use gray 3M or gray other-brand abrasive pads in the place of steel wool.

The abrasive pads look like kitchen cleaning scrub pads, only gray instead of green. The green pads are too abrasive compared with the gray ones. Steel wool can leave bits of steel behind in the wood to rust and leave dark spots. The gray abrasive pads do not. I use both, but tend to favor the gray pads. If you buy steel wool, consider Liberon or Briwax brands of steel wool. They are oil-free, and less likely to stain or leave spots on your wood. You can buy the gray pads at Home Depot, Lowes, and other household hardware stores.

Woodworking stores sell them too. I found the Liberon steel wool at Rockler. Woodcraft sells Briwax steel wool. You can buy Tried and True finish in quart cans at Rockler and Woodcraft stores, and probably other regional and local woodworking stores.

You can find Rockler and Woodcraft stores in many states in the US. Rockler carries both Original and Varnish Oil. I know, because I bought them both at a Rockler store. The difference is subtle at best. Sometimes it is more about the texture, where finishes with beeswax seem to have a more natural feel. Some oil finishes tend to darken the wood more than others, but the difference is not that pronounced. I have asked finishing experts and they do not understand why some products cost so much.

Ultimately, it comes down to how much you buy into the hype of the expensive brands, the effort it takes to apply and burnish, in some cases , the number of coats required, the time it takes to cure, the safety factors, and personal preference. Thanks for your detailed input. Yes, I do think it is the beeswax texture that makes the Tried and True Original Finish my favorite as well. What would recommend using to make it as water resistant or waterproof as possible? Thanks Kim.

There are resin products made by West Marine that come highly recommended. Although I have not used them myself yet, I would consider them to be best suited for your project. Let me know if this helps. Great article! I have been using Tried and True Original Wood Finish and also Tried and True Danish Oil either together or alone for the past 6 months and they both provide a great finish. Simple and clean to use and virtually no clean up.

The product is available in Canada through Lee Valley Tools. Hi I wanted to use it for copper plate to protect from tarnish especially in rainy seasons.

I am in Delhi India where pollution is high affecting copper utensils , and let me know if anything available in India or any sample I can get in India. Thanks Dave. Thanks for writing. Hi, great article. I would like to know if this finish will seal end-grain turned cups?

Would hot drinks melt the seal? End grain cups are a challenge to seal because of the grain direction. Tried and True also makes a natural Varnish product which includes pine resins.

I would think that might work better. I would imagine the liquid will dissolve or breakdown the finish. Experiment and find out. And like every turning project, the wood species will play a major factor as well. The finish of Tried and True Original is not a high-gloss shine. Experiment and see if it works. Let me know what you find. Thanksfor yourmessage concerning food dafe fonish. Have you heard otherwise? I too have heard that finishes once dry can be food safe. However, my concern is the toxicity of the finishes before they dry and the assumption that they become food safe just by drying.

Also, what happens when finishes are chipped and allow moisture and bacteria to form under and around the cracks? Hospitalization will most likely not be the problem. The potential issue is health conditions that are formed or aggravated by exposure to toxic substances. These will be much more subtle and potentially not be obviously linked to the source.

Thanks for leaving your comment. I am sharing your article on my pinterest so word spreads. Thanks for your comment, Charlie. Great article Kent. I really hate wasting costly finishes. It really hurts to toss it. Tried and True does not skin over. When it gets cold, they will congeal a bit but they return to fluid when it gets warmer. This also keeps the larger amount of the Tried and True protected from contaminants, etc. Never thought about it for my bowls.

And yes, it works great on bowls. Follow the directions, especially for the initial coat, 24 hours dry time and burnishing. While that will work, following the steps makes a big improvement in the final results! I am making a tea mug out of olive and sealed a couple of cracks with a mixture of sawdust and CA glue. It sounds like the Tried and True is exactly what I am needing to seal the wood safely. The curing time should be on the bottle of CA.

If not, contact the manufacturer with your question just to be sure. Kent, I have been unable to get the shine you have achieved after two coats of Tried and True and more effort with steel wool than I wanted to give. Do you power buff the stuff?

I want some sheen. What type of wood are your using and how dry is it? The key is to put only a very thin layer on and let it sit for one hour, then wipe it off. After 24 hours then burnish the surface with steel wool. The sheen can be quite rich but is not a gloss. It is more of a satin finish.

Thanks for sharing. Would you recommend this for wooden spoons as well? I read somewhere that spoons need to be soaked first. Can you soak with linseed oil, and then finish with the Tried and True Original? Yes, this would work great for spoons. You can also use just the linseed oil, called Tried and True Danish Oil. This can be applied repeatedly until the wood it saturated and then you can apply a final coat of Tried and True with Beeswax.

Thank you for this article! I am looking to turn a small table into a large butcher block and prep surface.

I would suggest emailing the manufacturer to confirm [email protected] and mention you heard about there product here. I read some reviews on the selling site that some people found the odor very strong and objectionable. How would you describe the odor and how long does it linger in your shop after applying the material?

I work in our attached garage and my wife says anything I am using there can be smelled in the house. I guess everyone smells differently.

Would this work on a wood table that I want to refurbish as a bread bakers bench? Also… there is one crack in the table top that I would like to fill.

What compound would you recommend that would also be compatible with the oil and the intended purpose for the table? Thanks for any info. Yes, this finish will work well for such a table. I would use very fine sawdust from the same wood, if possible and combine that with regular yellow wood glue to fill the crack.

You can actually begin to sand the mixture, with a fine or sandpaper, as soon as it is pressed into the crack. Let the area dry and sand completely smooth. Then apply the Tried and True finish as directed.

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