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The glue makes everything slide around making it almost impossible to get the boards even and flush. I was recently hanging out with my friend Rich when he noticed my technique to keep the wood from sliding around before I get everything clamped together. I never really gave the technique much thought. After he pointed it out and we talked about it for a bit, I realized maybe not everyone does it this way. So I figured I would share it.
You probably have everything needed to do it already. No need for clamping cauls, finish or brad nails, CA glue or salt. Let me know what you think! The measurement will vary, depending on your project and wood width.
For example, if your wood is 8 inches wide, but your woodworking plan requires 6 inches of width, then cut off 2 inches. Cut the wood into smaller, equal lengths using a saw.
Keep the pieces in order as you chop them up. Then when you glue them together, the grain will match better and look like one block of wood. Place the sections of wood together into a block. Make sure they align and fit flat against one another.
This is called a "dry-fit. Disassemble the block of wood and glue the sections together. Apply glue to the first two pieces of wood. Follow the manufacturer's guidelines to make sure that the glue is applied correctly.
Check that the glue is spread right to the edges of each piece of wood so that it is securely attached to the next, then clamp the pieces of wood together. In larger structures, creep can spell joint failure. Avoid: White glue. It creeps the most, but most PVAs can stretch under long-term loads. Try: Urea formaldehyde and epoxy are the safest choices, but polyurethane is more convenient, and suitable for non-structural projects. CA glue bonds are stiff to the point of brittle; the bond can be broken with a hard rap.
Gloves, respirators, goggles, and good ventilation provide decent defense, but if you are concerned about the effects of long-term exposure, or if you are chemically sensitive, steer clear of adhesives containing problematic chemicals, including those requiring solvent-based cleaners.
Avoid: Urea formaldehyde. It contains formaldehyde, a skin and lung irritant, and possible carcinogen. Polyurethane and epoxies contain sensitizers that can trigger allergic reactions.
CA fumes irritate eyes, nose, and lungs. Try: PVAs. These are nontoxic and clean up with water. Hide glue is made from skins and hooves. Open time, working time, and curing time all relate to how long it will take to glue up a project from application to maximum bonding. Depending on the project, speed can be an ally or enemy. Fast: Hot hide glue tacks in minutes, but with the aid of an accelerator, CAs bond instantly.
If you can afford a few minutes, fast-curing epoxies cure in minutes, but offer considerable strength. Slow: Titebond III and liquid hide glue offer more time for complex or multi-stage glue-ups.
For even more time, try Titebond Extend see sidebar, right. Polyurethane allows a comfortable working time for complicated glue-ups, but keep the clamps on until final cure or the foam can cause joints to open.
Lowering the temperature will also buy more time. Woodworking in poorly heated spaces during winter months often leads to glue failure. Avoid: PVAs. Try: Epoxies. In chilly conditions, you can use a heat lamp or hair dryer to help the epoxy kick in. Type II testing involves three soaking cycles and three drying cycles before the samples are tested. Despite type-ratings, all PVAs will soften in a constant marine environment.
Avoid: White and hide glues. Their bonds can be undone with hot water. This can be an advantage when expecting repairs. Conservators prefer hide glue because new glue reactivates old. Try: Epoxy is the only adhesive suited for constant water contact but for typical outdoor projects, Titebond II, polyurethane, and urea formaldehyde will all hold their own.
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