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flush-edge-router-bit This fairly simple procedure is practiced in small shops everywhere. Finally I worked out a way to get them somewhat aligned. Home Edge Trimming with a Flush edge router bit. I have pretty much used face framing and plate joinery to cover ply. Simply center the male cutter on the stock and make the cut.

They sharpen easily. Their blades last a long time and if your not centered exactly, all you need to do is a quick planing to get things flush! This does make a strong and pretty edge but it is not a fast method to do it. These bits are hard to set up by the method shown in the video because they have to be perfectly centered on the work piece or the shoulders will be different widths and it won't work; it will leave a gap on one side of the finished panel. To make setup simpler, make a trial cut on one edge, flip it upside down and cut the same side again.

If the bit cuts off more stock on the second pass, it isn't centered and you will have to raise or lower the bit. I, too, found out that the tear out on the plywood cross grain was bad.

I wonder if it would be a good idea to make the tongue bit cut a a small shoulder perpendicular to the plywood face on each side. That would allow you to run the plywood directly against the fence, leaving the same small shoulder on the plywood, eliminating the need for taping a board to it.

By setting up the fence very accurately, I was able to eliminate that step but it takes a long time to do it. I also found that trying to use the straight bit to cut off the excess didn't work very well.

It helps if you have a fence on the table that you can raise up the width of the exposed portion of the male piece, allowing it to go under the fence. I finally just sanded them off with a belt sander. I just bought a set of the edge banding sets. I have pretty much used face framing and plate joinery to cover ply. Thought these might be a better way to cover it up. Boy was I wrong. I watched a tutorial to show how to set them up, which I followed, and the cuts were so far off it was ridiculous.

Finally I worked out a way to get them somewhat aligned. This took over an hour and lots of scrap to achieve. Secondly the tear out with the ply groove cutter was atrocious. I tried changing router speed, feed speed, hold downs, passes through the blades, and ply. None seemed to work.

While MLCS makes some good products, this is not one of them. I bought the 60 degree set a couple of years ago - works great. The finished product is virtually seamless! I just watched the instructional video online and I learned that when cutting the groove you need to place a scrap piece of wood on top as a guide against the router fence - otherwise the piece of plywood gets smaller and the edge may not be straight.

Not a problem. Edge Trimming Router Bits The router bit you use for edge trimming can make a huge difference in the quality of the final cut. Instead of running parallel to the body and shank of the bit, the flutes of shear and spiral router bits are angled - a simple difference that can have considerable impact on the way the bit performs. In general, shear and spiral bits cut the surface of the stock with a slicing motion instead of chopping straight into the stock. The result is less energy consumption, less vibration and a cleaner cut.

The down-shear piloted flush trim bit you see on the left helps limit splintering on the top surface of the material. Up-cut bits , on the other hand, tend to leave a cleaner edge on the bottom of the material.

They also have the effect of drawing the chips and dust upwards, and because of that are especially suited for plunging out mortises. Also worth mention are bits that perform both the up-cut and down-cut function in a single swath. Double compression bits are arranged so that they have both an up-cut and down-cut configuration — the two meeting in the middle of the bit.

They are designed, as is easily guessed, to provide the cleanest possible edge on both top and bottom surfaces of the material. You have a few options when it comes to guiding the router through the cut. You can use a piloted flush trim bit ; you can use an un-piloted straight or spiral bit along with a straightedge to guide the edge of the router; or you can use a guide bushing along with an unpiloted bit.

Keep in mind, though, that the Edge Routing Dust Port attaches to the bit opening and thereby eliminates the guide bushing method. The piloted bit method is the easiest to set up, and therefore the most popular. With a piloted bit, you simply line the straightedge pattern up with the cut line, clamp it in place, and away you go. Doing so works just fine, but does take a little longer and gives you more of an opportunity to make an error.

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