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best-wood-for-turning-spindles-yellow Check out our turned wood spindles selection for the very best in unique or custom, handmade pieces from our shops.  The most common turned wood spindles material is wood. Are you looking for the best wood lathe for turning bowls? There are various types of lathes in the market for a different purpose. But, Your wood turning.  This stout machine offers endless functionality whether turning fine spindles or large bowls. Where the chisel meets the grain is our fully-adjustable /4″ tool rest with heavy-duty locking handle and 1″ post diameter. The headstock assembly can be positioned anywhere along the bed, and the tailstock swings aside on the hinged bed when not in use, allowing for maximum work piece clearance. Turn at speeds of RPM thanks to the 3HP, three-phase motor with crystal-clear digital readout and forward/reverse spindle function. Well, professionals know that they can only achieve this mastery with the best woodturning tools set (wood lathe chisels). There are various shapes of such lathe turning tools that can help you create different forms, such as a skew chisel, parting tool, and gouge. You need to learn how to wield each gear to make shapes. However, the equipment needs to be top-notch too. Otherwise, your expertise will not matter. Contents. Top 12 Woodturning Tool Sets: Wood Lathe Chisels Comparison Chart. Verawood 1. You must log in or register to reply here. While you may be interested best wood for turning spindles yellow reading about these types, you may not get all of them readily. Hope ebst enjoy the refreshed site! However, this wood can cause an allergy similar to the allergy of poison ivy, so you need to exercise caution while handling it. With the right kind of wood, you will yeplow be able to create some beautiful wooden items on your woodworking lathe.

I would look first at his various cuts then look over his other stuff too. John Lucas certainly knows his business but it has been a while since I have looked at his video's so I don't remember much about them. You don't say how long you have been turning but we all have to walk before we fly.

Taking your time and not rushing the wood is a good idea. Also keep a bottle of water by your lathe and spritz the piece now and then and before you leave the lathe for even a few minutes. A barely damp towel to drape over the piece if you stop for lunch or something helps too. Sharpening and tool handling both take some experience and some woods are tough for even the best to turn.

Here is where most of my cedar went that was old, dry, and cracking! Thanks, Bill and Hu! I will check out the videos of those mentioned. I've been following Richard Raffan closely in his books and videos. So far I've found him to be the most benefit to increasing my skills.

I have looked at John Lucas's videos, too, and he's amazing as well. I'm pretty new to turning, so points well taken on walking before flying.

It's funny: I've been a carpenter, finish carpenter, contractor, woodworker—pretty much full-time working wood for most of the last 20 years But turning is starting over again, in many respects. It's both humbling and exciting.

And occasionally, darn frustrating! I'll post what I learn and what's helpful over the next weeks. Best, Zach P. Hu, is that new drying technique faster than a microwave? I tried bumping up the fineness on honing after grinding, and it worked beautifully. Scrapers responded best to grit the green on DMT stones. I honed the top first, then formed the hook by honing the bevel. I could hone a fair bit coarser for bowl and spindle gouges.

I know that's a bit silly to hone the flute with a coarser grit, but that's all I have. I might purchase a small grit CBN honing stone with the convex sides for honing flutes, and the flat face for bevels.

I would say I usually didn't hone for more than 30 seconds total. Last edited: Apr 3, Dean Center. Zach, I may be mistaken, but I don't believe most people feel the need to hone bowl gouges.

Woodturning doesn't require the same edge as woodcarving. You may be investing a lot of effort in a direction that will ultimately not be your key to success. Having a sharp tool is critical and I'm pretty convinced that our skill in turning progresses in direct relationship to our progress in sharpening, but that's sharpening off a grinding wheel of several different sorts, or a belt sander and not a slipstone.

I second the suggestion to have a hands on session with an experienced turner. You can learn more in a few hours with another turner than you can in months of working by yourself. I've seen some Alaska yellow cedar, which is not at all botanically the same as the 'cedar' we have in the lower What I've seen has been a little on the soft side but it should turn well, without a lot of surprises.

You're very fortunate to have a wood to turn that is pretty exotic for the rest of us. Good luck. I had some one bring some Alaskan Yellow Cedar a few years back to turn for him. For cedar, it is really hard, but no where near other hard woods, and the scent just about drove me out of the shop. If your tools are sharp, for finish cuts, go slow on your pushing. There is always a strong tendency to try to cut too fast, especially as you get hear the dead center, dead as in it is moving so slow, it almost isn't moving at all.

Scrapers will not give a good finish surface on bowl orientation, but can do a nice job on end grain work. High shear angle cuts better, so on outside, drop the handle, and on the inside, roll the tool over to 3 o'clock and gently push. Of course there are lots of specialty tools you can get too. I also have a lot of bowl turning clips up if you type in robo hippy on You Tube. I know of a couple, and will be tracking them down shortly.

A lot to be said for experience! The red streaks are composed of a pigment from a fungus Fusarium negundi. Turning by Rob Wallace, Ames, Iowa. Under the best growing conditions, the trees are reported to reach heights of about feet 30 m. They produce straight clear trunks that are 35 to 50 feet 10 to 15 m long, with average diameters of up to 30 inches 75 cm , but may occasionally reach 60 inches cm.

Madrone Arbutus menziesii is sometimes called madrona or madrono, and scientifically is always preceded by the word Pacific. That's because there's a Texas version of the species, and a Mexican one, too. But most of the madrone you see as woodworking stock and veneer comes from a range that extends from southern British Columbia down to California's central coast. In that coastal band, you can find madrone everywhere there's a forest, and in nearly any size.

In rugged mountain terrain madrone may only reach shrub size. Elm claims about 20 species in the temperate regions of the world. In the forest, elm often grows ' tall. But open-grown elms rarely reach that height. Instead, they form a spreading, umbrella-like crown valued for shade. Turning by Rob Wallace, Ames Iowa. Spalting is a figure pattern caused by fungus growing in trees and logs.

It produces black streaks usually growing with the grain and can result in a beautiful marbling. Some species are more prone to spalting such as maple like that shown , birch and beech, while others such as walnut rarely spalt. The fungus enters the tree through an injury and starts to spread.

The trick is to get dense spalting before the lumber turns to punk. It is not uncommon to find a log with spalting penetrating the end grain for a short distance but this can be little more than a distraction.

Wherever Osage orange grew, it had many a use. At one time, a Plains Indian brave would gladly trade a horse and blanket for a bow made of the wood. The reputation of such bows spread widely from the land of their makers-the Osage Indians of Arkansas and Missouri.

Bows of this hard, strong wood even were found by explorers in use as far north as Montana. That's why in many parts of the nation the wood carries the name bois d'arc, French for wood of the bow.

Americanized, the term becomes bowdark. In species such as sycamore the face of the quartersawn lumber will display a prominent ray fleck on its face. These rays are part of the cell structure of the growing tree that radiate outward from the pith of the log to the sapwood.

When the log is sawn with the annual rings perpendicular these rays are bisected and show up on the face of each piece of quartersawn lumber as a shiny band.

When sawn, each log reveals its own unique figured pattern of ray flecks. This is only visible in those species that have these rays in the cellular structure. Turning by Marlen Kemmet.

Light in orange color, with occasional pinkish colored streaks, Bradford pear is an extremely hard and dense wood, but turns easily. Thank you Jed, for sharing with us young guys, your passion and experience. Your love for the craft is evident in that you take the time to put these videos and articles together to pass on your skills for the next gen.

Your an inspiration to us all!!! That was inspiring. Thank you for Best Wood For Turning Spindles 05 taking the time to share your skills in such detail. Definitely making that tool rest. Once again, Jeb puts life and meaning to an otherwise common element of our trade. His explanations are succinct and so clear, explaining the historical significance of his work really allows us to move forward in our craft.

Thank you. This video is incredible. I would have liked to have seen one last piece where you were on your th turning. The patterns on the wall are your template patterns. Should I mention, the best way to turn dozens of small balusters, is to get the copy-lathe dude to do them?

Are you still doing courses Jed? Do you have a stair book out? It would be great to get your knowledge and expertise in print. Barry and all other readers who are wondering the same thing! Still, one of these years he may not. And that year will mark a huge loss for our industry. The average author may only sell about bout copies, making profits hard to come by. Instead I hoose to shoot my mouth off on the internet, while Jedi does not.

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