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10-table-saw-blade-guard The splitter is a thin plate, usually metal, that sits behind the blade and is used to keep the wood separated while the blade is going through. After all, the more woodworking you do, 10 table saw blade guard more tools you buy. A riving knife is somewhat like a more advanced splitter. The most common and basic part of the blade guard assembly is the acrylic cover that covers the blade. Some Riving Knifes already come with anti kickback pawls integrated…. You can learn about how I handle information I collect by viewing gurad Privacy Policy. DIY Splitter?

I think demonstrating safe procedures with that in mind is important. I also want to stress that using a riving knife is non-negotiable and I believe it is the single most important safety feature on a table saw.

It will dramatically reduce the chance of kickback. Never make a cut without it. Most people think the primary purpose of a blade guard is to keep your fingers safe. This can happen in different ways, the most common is from reaching over the blade to grab a cutoff and dropping it or dragging it over the blade which will cause it to shoot back at you. It can also keep any small chips from flying into your eye, but you should always be wearing safety glasses.

A blade guard does provide some finger protection, mostly serving as a visual reminder to keep your fingers away from the blade. And it will protect your hand from inadvertently skimming over the blade. I really like to use a push block to support a board and guide it through the blade. For me, this seems safer and gives me far better control Jet Table Saw Blade Guard Assembly over of my work-piece. But you cannot use a push block at all with a blade guard in place.

Maybe this is just a psychological thing, but I like to see where the blade is. It also needs to be removed when making non-through cuts such as dados and grooves. They are sometimes ineffective when making bevel cuts or need to be removed altogether. So really the only time when a blade guard would work for me is when making crosscuts while using a miter gauge and in general, these are the least likely types of cuts that a blade guard would provide protection…again, assuming I have all other safety procedures in place.

When making crosscuts, I am standing to the side of the blade and both hands are on the miter gauge. And since my work-piece is usually on the miter gauge side, I have no need to reach over the blade to retrieve it.

And as someone who teaches woodworking on YouTube, this puts me in an awkward situation. I need to be hyper aware of demonstrating safe woodworking practices and I make an honest effort to always do so and point out potential risks. But a blade guard has too many asterisks and gray areas attached to it to for me to call it a non-negotiable safety accessory. This plastic blade guard is often, but not always, attached to the splitter.

The splitter is a thin plate, usually metal, that sits behind the blade and is used to keep the wood separated while the blade is going through.

The opening that the saw blade makes in the wood is called the kerf. Picture a metal ruler standing up sideways a few inches behind your blade, and you have pictured a splitter. The splitter is necessary to prevent your working wood from being catapulted into the air and onto your face. Technically, that wood thrust into your face by a moving saw blade is called a kickback. Splitters prevent kickback. The splitter prevents the moving sliced board from enclosing on the moving blade.

If that happens, kinetic energy takes over faster than a blink of an eye and somebody gets hurt. A riving knife is somewhat like a more advanced splitter. It serves the same purpose — to prevent kickback and keep the kerf from closing up on the blade. But it sits closer to the blade than the splitter, so a riving knife tends to be better at keeping the kerf separated.

Since a riving knife is not attached to the blade guard cover, some safety remains if the blade guard cover is taken off. The riving knife is in place to help prevent kickback.

You can make a larger splitter out of metal to accommodate large pieces of wood, and you can make a blade guard any shape and size and angle you prefer. A blade guard can be made out of wood, metal, clear plexiglass or the stronger Lexan material. Making it yourself allows you to create the size you need and make modifications that makes your line of woodworking easier.

If you can make a box, you can make a blade guard. There are, however, some very snazzy homemade blade guards out there complete with exhaust tubes and telescoping arms. Alternatively, you can attach the blade guard cover to a stationary object such as a telescoping arm elsewhere on your saw or in your shop. There are different ways you can make it adjustable so you can adapt the height to tailor each project.

If you must take the blade guard off to use your table saw, replace it with modern upgrades, or make your own modified version. Some Riving Knifes already come with anti kickback pawls integrated…. Splitters are used in conjunction with another anti-kickback device called anti-kickback pawls.

You can think of these as metal hands attached to the blade guard assembly. The problem with anti-kickback pawls is that they often have to be removed when making crosscuts. That creates a safety problem. Traditionally, the blade guard assembly is a one-piece deal.

Traditionally, that also results in a lot of people not using the blade guard and the attached kickback safety features. A woodworker has to make a choice of being limited, or being safe. When making that choice, what woodworkers often forget is the math of kinetic energy. When a woodworkers hand is on the wood, and there is improper contact between the wood and the blade as both are moving, the blade will automatically propel within milliseconds the wood with the hand towards the blade before anyone even realizes what is happening.

Oops , there goes another finger. Many woodworkers unwisely choose to operate their table saw unsafely.

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