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Vise jaws not included. Shipping weight 18 pounds. Keith Bellamy — August 4, The VX20F vise mechanisms are delivered assembled with the clamp shafts installed. I added some strips of thin cork to my vise chop for added grip. The ability to quick-release this vise is key for me.
You must be logged in to post a review. Unlike traditional screw operated vises the VX20F face vise utilizes two smooth steel shafts which slide in and out of housings screwed to the bottom of the workbench. The clamp shafts protrude through the moveable vise jaw and attach to the customers choice of hand wheel or wooden hub and handle. When unclamped the front vise jaw is free to quickly move in and out to adjust to the width of work which needs to be secured.
The rotation of one shaft is transferred to the other shaft by a flat steel bar which slides against the bottom of the bench top. Small racks mounted to the ends of the bar engage pinions located on both clamp shafts in the housings. When one handle is turned the rack and pinion transfers the motion to other handle through the transfer bar so it also turns.
It is very similar to the rack and pinion steering used in many cars. Clamping is accomplished by an amazingly simple mechanism. A unique helical cam and a precision disk clutch couples the clamping action in the two housings and allows the smooth shafts to clamp when turned, in effect creating a screw — less screw. The clamp shafts are pushed rearward, with great mechanical advantage, by the clutch action against the helical ramp of the cam.
To clamp your work you simply slide the front vise jaw against the work piece and rotate the clamp handle to apply as much pressure as you would like, just like a screw. There are no levers or releases and either handle may be used to clamp or unclamp.
A threaded bushing mortised into the vise shoulder unseen keeps the screw on track. And high humidity could cause the parts to swell and bind. As the name implies, this vise installs into the bench leg, which sometimes serves as the fixed jaw.
With a flush-fitting vise, the leg itself serves as a full-length fixed jaw. A leg vise moves via a single screw with a pinned sliding guide rail to maintain parallelism. The guide-rail pin rests against end-grain hard-maple pads that prevent compressing the softer alder leg of this bench.
However, you can build up Twin Screw Woodworking Vise Lab some legs to make a leg vise work. These mount to the end of the bench and typically work with bench dogs along the length of the benchtop. If you prefer rectangular dogholes, cut those notches in the boards before gluing them to the benchtop; round holes can be drilled before or after assembly. A traditional tail vise [ Photos H and I ] consists of a rectangular or L-shape block of wood the jaw fastened to a steel or cast-iron fixture that slides back and forth in a cutaway corner of the bench.
A long mortise accepts the screw and threaded fixture, and the upper guide rail fits in the slot. A lower guide rail, not shown, mounts beneath the jaw. The tail vise slides back and forth along the guide rails, held in place by the screw assembly. Too much clamping force, however, can cause boards to bow up. Typically, you use two rows of bench dogs to hold long or wide stock.
The timing chain on a twin-screw end vise syncs the screws. You can adjust either screw should the vise jaws get out of parallel.
You can intentionally make the jaws unparallel for clamping irregular-shape workpieces. You need to cut a big arc or wheel out of a sheet of plywood, but you know that a handheld jigsaw A flush-mounted face vise offers the most versatility, but it requires more work to install.
As with the previous method, handling is easier with the vise disassembled. First, lay out the notch in the benchtop. Its length should be the width of the jaw plus 1". Make the crosscut into the benchtop edge with a backsaw.
Then clamp a straightedge to the bench to guide a circular saw to cut the length of the notch. Rip the notch until you intersect the previous crosscut Photo C , and then finish up with a handsaw. Attach the rear cheek with 10 flathead woodscrews after countersinking the holes in the jaw. Center the block along the width of the notch, with the edges of each aligned flush at the front. Clamp the block in place, and then attach it to the benchtop with lag screws and washers, as shown in Photo D.
To make the wooden cheek for the rear jaw, first measure the thickness of the jaw. Crosscut the piece and bandsaw the interior to make the U-shaped cheek filler.
Then crosscut it to fit the benchtop notch. Countersink the holes on the rear jaw and attach the cheek as shown in Photo F. Position the vise on the spacer block with the cheek nestled in its notch. Mark and drill pilot holes, and attach the vise with washers and lag bolts Photo G. Use a straightedge to ensure the face of the jaw is flush with the edge of the bench.
Make the front cheek, and attach it with washers and roundhead woodscrews, reassemble the vise, and turn the benchtop over. Hand-plane the cheeks flush with the benchtop Photo H.
My bench had radiused edges, so I chiseled away the sharp point at the corner of the cheek. Finally, apply a couple of coats of wipe-on finish to all raw wood surfaces. Craig Bentzley has been restoring antiques and building furniture for nearly 40 years. In addition to writing, Craig also teaches at guilds, woodworking shows, and at Woodcraft stores.
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