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valenite-lathe-tools-3d What's New? It could never be described as "polished" though. Thinking that would allow me to just create a small micro-bevel at the cutting edge rather than having to grind the entire flank of the tool. I too, charted the information recieved from my previous post with similar results toolz your own. I asked these same questions about a year ago and recieved many lzthe replies. Once the insert moved so much valenite lathe tools 3d cut the diameter.

I think ours is 1 micron, but they sell various grades. Give 'em a call and see what they recommend. Yes likely need to true-in a bench grinder wheel hub to run better wobble and then knock in the diamond OD wheel to rin. I have not used the Accu grinder.

Thanks for the info. I have some durabar that i could make it from. I'd think it would work fine, but you'll have to be very careful not to catch and gouge it. Don't let anybody else touch it! There isn't anyone here but me. Well, there's the pixies who come in at night and hide my tape measures and 6" starrett scale That brings up a question: if I'm just kissing the edge, should the wheel be running into the work or away from it?

Always into the edge on carbide. And I've used 9 micron diamond grit slurry for a decent edge this would be a little over 2, grit in the more familiar rating. You can certainly go finer; though if you're touching up a dulled tool you should start coarser and work your way up.

Diamond lapping on carbide goes pretty quick. With a lap you would run it away from the edge. No risk of digging in, and loose abrasive won't be flowing over the edge you're trying to make.

Originally Posted by Screwmachine. Assume you are grinding the flanks. I would never go finer that a as that slow and no improvement on edge.

This all grinding wheels information and not charged laps. Charged laps diamond paste should not be done rotation into the cutting edge so backwards only here which means finer grits to avoid particle pullout from the binder.

A free slurry or lap leaves a rounded entry due to abrasive loading and piling up front. Sort of the edge shape that is known as a waterfall hone is produced. This may seem razor sharp up top but it is not in cutting action. Em, whats your take in time on removing about 0.

Originally Posted by eKretz. I had a trick for grinding carbide as for Multi tooth cutters and high precision reamers. I would grind into the edge up to the last. Yes, I would be coming from the heal first into the part for finishing. Doing this I would achieve a much better edge finish, and would not have the crash effect at the cutting edge.

To see the crash effect you run a needlepoint micron indicator point up to the very cutting edge. At the big shop, I would take photos under an arc microscope and see grind fractures on the very best grind Carbloy and Valenite could make on inserts. We had one insert that was print stated no fractures at the cutting edge. If I want smaller indexible boring bars I'd have to get inserts specifically for them. The Mori Seiki should be rigid enough and have enough horsepower to use a broader radius, so for both steel and aluminum, roughing and finishing?

I'd think the broader radius will give a little nicer surface finish. It seems I'd want a? NMT or? NMG for roughing, and possibly a? CMG or? PMG for finishing, replacing the? Toolholders: For roughing I'd get both M?

LNR D and M? These are pin and clamp retention for the insert. It looks like with my B series Multifix toolholders the 6" shank gives me a little room to adjust the tool in or out while being able to use all three clamp bolts. The 5" shank looks like it wouldn't have much room for adjustment if I wanted to use all three bolts. I don't think I'd need a neutral-handed tool as I can Valenite Lathe Tools Inc easily shift the angle of the Valenite Lathe Tools Limited R or L tools on my Multifix toolpost.

I don't see a neutral tool listed anyway. Finishing tool holders would appear to be S screw type ,? I would think I'd want two of each toolholder so I could have one set up with an insert for ferrous and the other for aluminum.

Or can I use a positive rake insert in the negative rake toolholder for finishing? That would let me get the same basic M? LN toolholder for everything. I'm not clear on using the different shims, if they are only for adjusting for different thickness inserts, or if they actually allow an insert to be reangled in the holder. Boring bars appear to be negative rake but use postive inserts, which I guess is to get more clearance for the bottom corner of the insert.

The T inserts seem about the same price as the C. So if the W lasts the same as a C but with an extra point, and longer than the T with the same number Valenite Lathe Tools Revenue of points, the W would appear to be a good choice to start off with for my basic tooling set. But there are so many variations of inserts and manufacturers that I'm having difficulty picking inserts that seem to have the same characteristics for comparison purposes. Does that make sense?

Not necessarily. Double sided N finishing inserts are produced. Their geometry may not be as optimised as some single sided inserts but I can't tell the difference. N referes to the clearance angle of the insert, not the insert in it's holder. A high positive tip geometry combined with a negative holder still adds up to a positive geometry.

Try a? NMG for both. If you are dissappointed, try the other options. As above I'm not clear on using the different shims, if they are only for adjusting for different thickness inserts, or if they actually allow an insert to be reangled in the holder.

Only on threading tools do they adjust the angle. We use double sided inserts on our bars, especially for roughing. We also have a S?? Sounds good! All you have to do now is tour insert manufacturers sites and make a list of carbide grades and geometries! Some wonderful responses here. This question on getting someone new to inserts up-n-running gets posted sporadically, but doesn't normally garner such a full discussion. I suspect some of the replies took an hour to put together.

Might be a good candidate for the 'Greatest Hits' file when it peters out Hi Michael, I have been following Valenite Lathe Tools Quotes this thread with great interest, for our carbide insert goals and strategies are the same. I asked these same questions about a year ago and recieved many helpful replies.

I too, charted the information recieved from my previous post with similar results to your own. It is obvious from your questions that you are willing to do your home work. One suggestion I recieved was to take the Sandvik Coromant's Home Study Course, sorry, I don't remember who recommended this to me, so can't credit them.

I think you would find it very useful. Go to www. This should get you there. The course is free. Within a week, you will receive a copy of Modern Metal Cutting.

This book is about pages and makes a darn nice reference. I still have much to learn, but there are a couple things I can add to this excellent thread which might be helpful to you.

Having said that, the sales rep. You can get a set of five tool holders with inserts for cheap. Item ACQA will get you in the ball park if you don't have a catalog, go online to www. Their customer service and next day delivery has been outstanding.

Along with McMaster-Carr, they are among the best. What did I do? I also know that I will make some carbide selection mistakes, but figure that ebay will ease the painful sting in the wallet during my learning curve.

A couple more observations. Sometimes chips will hang up between the insert and work piece. When this happens on the finish cut, the beautiful shiny turned finish becomes scratched and unsightly. Hence, the triangle set purchase. This lathe needs a chip shield. Sincerely, John. I say this because I do exactly that on a regular basis myself.

Re Michael's question about shims

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