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smoothing-plane-adjustment Choosing Essential Tools for Woodworking. Smoothing plane adjustment planes and survivors from an earlier era require even more attention. Smoothing plane adjustment making back-and-forth sideways motions, carefully pull the blade onto the stone, then push it off again, repeating the process up to 10 times. He can be reached by email at nreid fcc. Next, experiment with the knob or nut at the rear of the frog that drives the adjustment screw. Then, lay the blade on the stone bevel side up with the cutting edge off the far edge of the stone. Keep the Iron Honed.

Not only will you start with a blade that's in premium condition, but it will be made of a more durable modern steel than was available when the older planes were originally made. This will need to be done on all blades, as even premium blades do not come with a micro bevel. Once again, start with your coarsest stone and stroke until you've established a thin line evenly across the tip of the blade. Then proceed to the next higher grit. Finish by giving it a mirror polish with your highest stone.

Do a careful job here; it's the micro bevel that meets the wood and produces those fine shavings. Finally, to get the sharpest edge, use David Charlesworth's ruler trick to put a very slight back bevel on the blade.

Place a thin ruler lengthwise on the rear edge of your stone. Then, lay the blade on the stone bevel side up with the cutting edge off the far edge of the stone. While making back-and-forth sideways motions, carefully pull the blade onto the stone, then push it off again, repeating the process up to 10 times. Do this using each of your stones, working to your highest grit. The result—a high polish on the extreme tip of the blade back that gives the sharpest edge. Once done, this step need not be repeated, though you may wish to refresh the back bevel with your finest stone each time you re-hone your microbevel.

Now that your blade is sharpened and honed to perfection, you will ordinarily only need to refresh the micro bevel on your finest stone from time to time to keep it in top cutting condition. Upgrading Your Plane Blade. If your blade is in bad shape—either badly nicked or rusted—you might be better off installing a new replacement blade.

Several manufacturers offer replacement blades in a variety of widths to fit older Stanleys, Records and other brands. Some blades are as much as 25 percent thicker than the original blades and use modern steels, including both A2 and 01 steel.

Replacement chipbreakers are also available. Thicker blades reduce the likelihood of chatter and offer greater stability, but they may require adjustments to the frog or even the size of the mouth opening to accommodate the greater thickness. Available blades vary in thickness, so take this into account when purchasing. A thickness of. Replacement chipbreakers in particular may be thicker than the original parts and may not fit older planes. Check with the manufacturer before ordering. Highland Woodworking carries Stanley replacement blades and chipbreakers.

Set the Mouth Opening. While the lion's share of attention goes to getting a keen edge on the blade, several other steps will help you get the best from your plane. One is adjusting the mouth opening. On a bevel down plane, this is achieved by moving the frog forward Smoothing Plane Blade Sharpening Quotes or backward until the opening is slightly wider than the thickness of the desired shaving.

For smoothing planes, very fine shavings are the goal so you will want to set a very narrow gap. The opening can be wider for jointers and wider still for jack planes set up to take thick shavings when roughing out a board. Set the frog with the blade in place and slightly projected.

On planes based on the Stanley Bedrock model, which includes Lie-Nielsen planes , adjust the opening by loosening the two screws on either side of the depth adjustment wheel. Then advance or retract the frog as necessary by turning the large screw located between the two locking screws.

Once the frog is adjusted, loosely tighten the locking screws, remove the blade and sight down the frog to the mouth to confirm that the frog is perfectly square to the mouth. Then tighten the locking screws alternately and gradually until tight. Don't over tighten them to avoid stripping the threads. The more common Bailey-style planes have a slightly different screw arrangement—two locking screws located under the blade-chipbreaker assembly and an adjusting screw at the rear of the frog.

This means you may have to insert and remove the blade and chipbreaker assembly several times until you get the mouth set the way you want it. Otherwise, the adjustment process is the same as for Bedrock-style planes. Some newer planes—including block planes and other bevel-up planes—are built with adjustable mouths. Usually the mouth is loosened by turning a lever at the base of the toe, then sliding the mouth assembly forward or backward to obtain the desired opening.

Adjust the Chipbreaker. The chipbreaker on a bevel down plane should also be set so the distance from the blade edge is slightly more than the width of the shavings you intend to make. The distance will vary for individual planes set up to achieve different results. Bevel up planes, of course, have no chipbreakers and need no such adjustment. Adjust the Cap Iron Pressure. The cap iron should hold the blade and chip breaker firmly to eliminate chatter but not so tightly that the depth adjuster can't be easily moved with two fingers.

With the lever loosened, tighten the screw until it holds the blade and chip breaker snugly in place, then snap the lever down and test the ease of adjustment. Once you've achieved the right amount of pressure, leave the screw alone and remove the iron by raising the lever. Set the Depth Adjuster. Now we come to the business end of the adjustments, where the metal meets the wood.

On most planes, you turn the depth adjustment wheel clockwise to deepen the cut and counterclockwise to retract it. However, there are exceptions. I recently came upon an old Crusader where the depth adjuster was turned in the opposite direction, so check your plane to see which rule applies.

Unfortunately, because of the unavoidable condition of backlash—excess play in the wheel adjustment—setting the blade depth so it does not slip in place requires a little more technique. The rule is to finish all depth adjustments with a downward, usually clockwise, movement of the wheel. Failing to keep downward pressure leaves the blade in a loose condition that lets it slip, and you can quickly lose the adjustment you just carefully set.

Thus, if the blade is set too deep, back it off by turning the wheel counterclockwise until the blade is fully retracted. Then make small downward ordinarily clockwise adjustments, testing after each movement, until you get the right depth. If you find you need a more shallow set, repeat the entire process by backing the blade out and then deepening the cut by small degrees. Lateral Adjustments. The rule of thumb here is to slide the lateral adjustment lever toward the side of the blade that is cutting too deeply.

You can test the balance of the blade depth by sighting down the sole and looking for the black line that shows the presence of the blade. Or you can look directly into the mouth from Smoothing Hand Plane 600 the bottom of the plane to judge whether the blade is the same distance from the mouth edge on both sides. An adjustable plate in the sole of the plane permits the mouth to be reduced in size, either for particularly fine work, or at the stage when the sole of the plane has been worn and has had to be trimmed. As with all planes, it is very important to get to know a new plane, and sharpening it will rapidly deepen the acquaintance.

Even if there is note in the box to say a new plane is sharpened ready for use, you should really take the time to sharpen and hone a new plane. Whether or not the manufacturer instructs you to do so, sharpen the iron, and hone it, and do the same with the cap iron.

This is the only way to ensure that no shavings will get between the cap iron and the blade, clogging up the plane, as the freshly honed surface of the cap iron will fit perfectly flush on the surface of the blade. It is also advisable to smooth the sole of the plane a little further, by placing grain sandpaper on a dead flat surface and going over it with the plane a few times.

This will smooth out any minor variances in the sole due to the manufacturing processes. All the smoothing planes listed here have a 48 mm approx.

The length of the body is mm approx. These speed clamps are easy to position using just one hand. Ergonomic two-component handle. Fast release of tension by brief pressure on the metal lever located between the two-part handles. T-slotted rails as components for the construction of sliding stops, milling tables and other fixtures for the workshop are becoming increasingly popular due to their universal applicability. The ideal plane for rabbeting, panel raising and trimming tenons.

The plane's body is made of stress-relieved gray cast iron. The 3 mm thick high carbon steel blade is hardened to 61 - 63 HRC.

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