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salad-bowl-finish-cutting-board-amazon The cookie is used to store the user consent for the cookies in the category "Performance". Well, the main things would be mercury and lead. Should You Wax That? We still need to be careful, and use common sense. By moemadebb on July 20, Never used on spoons but on cutting boards and after a year the finish is still good.

Wood has its limitations! Watch the Salad Bowl Finish being applied! Makes Excellent Finish I have used this on 5 salad bowls and every one loves the finish. I apply while the bowl is on the lathe spinning at a very low speed and leave is spinning until Salad Bowl Finish Cutting Board Ltd finish sets. I usually use 3 to 5 light coats. Excellent I have been overjoyed with this product, not only did I refinish the cutting boards I also refinished all wood type cooking utensils.

Cures to a hard surface and food safe. Brings out the beautiful grain in the material. Great finish. Salad bowl finish I used this product to seal and protect an end grain cutting board I made. I love this product and recommend it to anyone making cutting boards. Then you can sand it to smooth urethane like finish.

I like this finish. I like this finish I put it on most of my bowls I turn. I do light coats with soft cloth for me works the best. Great finish I use this for all my cutting boards that I make…. Finesse is success!! The product is awesome for finishing end grain butcher blocks of all varieties of wood. I tried several different salad bowl finishes this hands down the best for my uncontrolled climate in Fl.

Easy to use and exceptional finish. It is all I use now for my bowls. Great product I use this on my salad bowl turnings, it dries fast and lasts.

Salad bowl finish I have used this finish for at least 25 yrs. Have discovered that by using a piece of cloth to apply it, have had no problems with runs.

Good stuff I having been using General Finishes Salad bowl finish for a couple years now. Most of my bowls are pine. I wet sand the first coat with grit to cover any lingering blemishes, then fine sand prior to another two or three coats. At least 12 hours between coats, more when its cold in the shop.

You are now starting to develop a film. One last wipe with a clean cloth and call it DONE. So how does a board like this fare in the kitchen? There are two main concerns here: safety and maintenance. A butcher block treated this way will resist water all day long. In fact, on my boards, water tends to evaporate faster than it absorbs. Mineral oil boards will actually take on moisture much more readily. Adding wax to your mineral oil can certainly help in this area if thats the route you want to go.

Now the fact that it is so water resistant is a major plus in terms of sanitation. Remember that the bacteria like the moisture. So the less moisture in the board, the better. So how about knife marks? Well like with any board, knife marks will happen. So what happens to my boards? They get knicked up. They get dulled a little more in the middle where the most action occurs. But after about 18 straight months of usage, my cutting board looks pretty darn good. Check out the pics below. Now if there were a thick film on that board and that film were to crack, the moisture would certainly seep in and create problems.

In fact after 18 months of that type of abuse you would probably expect the finish to start flaking off or exhibit more physical damage than what you see. But when a knife produces a deep cut on my board, it just cuts into varnish-filled pores. There is nothing to flake off.

And I suspect that in another month or so, I will take the board back in the shop, give the top a nice thorough sanding, reapply a light coat or two of diluted varnish monitoring how much it takes up , and the board will look brand new. What kind of maintenance does a mineral oil board require? Monthly, and possibly more frequently if used heavily.

I am by no means trying to discourage people from using mineral oil. After all, its the classic cutting board finish. Use whatever floats your boat. Personally, I have had great success with my method and will continue to use it. The feedback from other folks who have tried it has been great as well. I think its safer, easier, and looks better. Of course my results are not backed by scientific tests. If I still worked in a lab I might be able to test it properly. It actually hardens as it cures and has water-resistant properties.

This literally comes from the honeycomb of honey bees. Avoid on surfaces that will get hot, as the wax can melt off. This is plant-based, and is considered safe for consumption because it is inert, non-toxic, and cannot be digested by humans. This is a non-toxic, non-drying oil that is commonly used on butcher block tables and cutting boards.

It must be re-applied as often as monthly, and will become brittle and crack if not maintained, so be sure to keep a bottle on hand. This sweet-smelling finish is non-toxic and resists water and alcohol. Be sure to leave it exposed to oxygen after application. Once fully cured, it should not affect those with nut-allergies, but caution should still be taken.

This drying oil comes from flax seeds, and offers protection from sun and water damage. It does however take a really long time to dry, as long as a few weeks, and even up to over a month. Similar to Mineral Oil, this wax is derived from petroleum. This is a food safe finish good for butcher blocks and cutting boards.

Well, it first comes down to one main decision, and possibly one followup decision:. The penetrating oils soak down into the wood and stay inside.

They provide less protection, but they are easier to apply, and leave a more natural looking finish. A surface sealer, also known as a film finish, remains on the surface and leaves a layer that can be built up for added protection. For me, I prefer a surface sealer for most projects that will get more physical abuse, wear and tear, cleaning agents, or moisture.

Note: Not all of these finishes are commonly considered a food safe wood finish, which is why only 2 of them are on my list above. These are the 2 categories of penetrating oils , so let me break it down a little further so you can understand the difference. A non drying oil stays wet indefinitely. It will require the General Finishes Salad Bowl Finish Cutting Board Apk most frequent re-application, depending on how much wear the wood surface is subjected to.

And just to clarify, peanut, olive, and rapeseed oils are not on my list of food safe wood finishes. Most if not all modern types of wood finishes no longer contain the extremely hazardous adds, like lead dryers. Rule of thumb is any wood finish needs a good 30 days to fully cure…. The point is that these additives are used to help with application and curing.

But after that, they are no longer a threat. We still need to be careful, and use common sense. The FDA regulates this type of thing, and has guidelines for what makes a food safe wood finish. They provide a long list of products that can be included in the finish, and it just so happens, the ingredients in modern wood finishes are all on that list!

Well, the main things would be mercury and lead.

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