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If you want to ensure you're cutting a straight line, use a guide along one side of the plywood. The size of the plywood can be increased or decreased depending on how much tabletop space you want. Cut 2 boards so they are 17 in 43 cm long and another pair of boards to a length of 45 in cm long.
Arrange the boards into a rectangle so the shorter boards fit between the longer ones. Connect the ends of the frame boards using wood screws with a drill. Pre-drill 2 holes into the ends of the boards so the wood doesn't split.
Then drill in 2 construction screws in each corner to attach the longer board to the end of the shorter board. Make sure the screws are completely tight so the frame doesn't fall apart. Use angle brackets and wood screws to secure the frame to the tabletop. Use 2 angle brackets for each board and place them at least 4 in 10 cm from the inside corners of the frame. Screw them into the frame, then screw the other side of the bracket to the bottom of the table.
If your frame still fits loosely to the tabletop, use another metal bracket in the middle of each board. Measure the distance from the floor to your waist using a tape measure. Once you find the height, make marks on your boards so you know where to saw them. Cut the boards using a table or circular saw and sand the bottoms so they sit flat on the ground. You can also make the table the same height as your current workbenches if you'd prefer.
Screw the legs into the support frame at each corner. Place the legs in the inner corners of the support frame you've built. Drill 2 construction screws into each leg to attach the legs to the frame's shortest sides.
Once the legs are attached, flip the table over so it's upright. Add cross supports between the legs 8 in 20 cm from the floor.
Pre-drill the holes through the boards and legs so the wood doesn't split. Attach the supports between each leg with construction screws and a drill so your table is sturdy when you use it. If your wood cracks, squeeze wood glue into the gap and clamp it tight so it is secure. Part 2 of Place the acrylic on top of the table at least 4 in 10 cm from one of the long sides.
Use a pencil to draw a line on the tabletop in the shape of the acrylic. Otherwise, you can place the hole in the center of the table. Use a straightedge and a pencil to draw a second square inside the one you already traced.
This square is what you'll cut out so your router can fit under the table. Measure the width of your router to see if you need to make any adjustments. Cut holes in each corner of the smaller square with a 1 in 2. Place your drill bit as close to the corner as you can. Turn your drill on and push down with an Router Table Plate 3d even pressure so the bit cuts through the tabletop completely.
Repeat this for each corner of the smaller square. Cut the inner square out with a jigsaw. Place the jigsaw in one of the holes you cut in the corner. Follow the line you drew to one of the other corners. Keep cutting until the square falls out or can easily be removed by hand. Use a straight bit in your router and set the thickness on the router to the same thickness as the acrylic sheet.
Turn the router on and press it firmly into the tabletop. Slowly work left and right to file away the wood up to the line you've drawn. Make sure not to work past the lines or else the sheet of acrylic will fit loosely. Sand the edges and corners of the square so the acrylic sheet fits. Use a or grit sandpaper to smooth the edges of the routed-out section of tabletop and round the corners of the acrylic sheet.
Test how the acrylic fits inside the tabletop and continue to make adjustments as you need them. Part 3 of Use a hole saw attachment for your drill in the center of the acrylic sheet to make your cut. Apply a firm amount of pressure to cut through the acrylic completely.
Pull the saw out and sand any rough edges. Turn the acrylic sheet and make another line between the 2 remaining corners. The center will be where the lines intersect. Wipe the lines clean with a dry cloth. Use the old router plate to mark where the mounting screws should go. Take the plate off of the router and line up the center hole with the one you made in the acrylic.
Look for the holes around the plate where you would attach screws and use a marker to make a dot on the acrylic so you know where to make the holes. Drill holes into the acrylic for each mounting screw. Use a drill bit that matches the size of the screws to make holes where you've marked the dots.
Drill completely through the acrylic with your drill bit so you can easily attach the mounting screws to the router. Attach the router to the underside of the acrylic with screws. Set your router upside down and place the sheet of acrylic on top of it. Line up the holes so the center is over the router bit and the mounting holes line up.
Use a drill to attach the screws to your router to the acrylic so it holds firmly in place. Drop the acrylic and router into the table so it fits flush. Carefully feed the power cord through the hole in the tabletop and set your router inside so the acrylic sheet sits on the ledge.
Make sure the acrylic is flush with the tabletop. There's a problem loading this menu right now. Learn more about Amazon Prime. Get free delivery with Amazon Prime.
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