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roman-ogee-baseboard-router-bit-71 You can accomplish molding work with a hand-held router, but you'll have a struggle. Rip the molding from the wider stock before making this nit. Roman ogee baseboard router bit 71 "Sources" on page for igee addresses and phone numbers of these manufacturers. The baseboard used in this assemblage is a stock molding. CNC Bit Sets.

The Ogee bit is designed to have a convex curve coming off the bearing. The Ogee curve begins with a concave inning at the top and curves down into a convex curve. When applied, this router bit provides two straight edges and a bead and convex curve in the middle. The reed edge bit is known for its elegant designs and is a design tool used to create patterns on wooden edges such as beds, chairs, and stools.

On applying the tool, it produces a thumbnail flanked by two full beads that form an elegant edge profile. The tool also comes in different sizes according to your needs. The table edge router bit is also a design cutter built for finishing table edges, bedposts and chairs with a splendid design pattern. The table edge router bit produces a wide profile with an arc based on the ellipse instead of a circle.

Once used, the design can serve both as an aesthetic piece or a handrail for users. The triple beading bit as its name suggests is a cutting tool that provides three symmetric beads on the edge.

It serves as a cutting tool for designing miniature handrails on beds and tables. The tool comes in different sizes and is universally used as an aesthetic tool.

The variable beading router bit is quite similar to the triple bead tool due to the fact that when used, it produces three beads but unlike the symmetric pattern produced by the latter, the variable beading tool produces three asymmetric beads on edges. It can be used to design bedposts, tables, chairs, and stools. When in need of double chamfers on two wooden edges, the variable double chamfer bit should be your go-to tool. The chamfer can be switched from a degree angle to a 45 to provide some variety when applied on edges.

It consists of multiple chamfer cutters in three wings to get the job done. The veining single flute router bit cuts a semi-circle flanked by two straight edges when applied on a flat surface. The depth of the cut when applied can be quite deep thereby giving it its name as a veining bit.

Here we come to the end of our description on some of the most popular router bit profiles used in woodworking. There are other router bits out there and if you fill we have missed one that is regularly used by you, do not hesitate to add it in the comment space below. Necessary cookies are absolutely essential for the website to function properly. This category only includes cookies that ensures basic functionalities and security features of the website. These cookies do not store any personal information.

Any cookies that may not be particularly necessary for the website to function and is used specifically to collect user personal data via analytics, ads, other embedded contents are termed as non-necessary cookies. It is mandatory to procure user consent prior to running these cookies on your website. Editor Choice. We earn a commission if you click this link and make a purchase at no additional cost to you. Contents 1 Router bit profiles 1. Bench dog router lift review. This website uses cookies to improve your experience.

The fence is essential, since the bit lacks a pilot. This cut exceeds that of the largest coves and core-box bits. Crown molding bit: Mid-sized crown molding profiles can be routed with one of these bits. The profiles are stock ones, so you probably won't be getting a shape you can't buy from your local lumber dealer. Three different profiles arc available. Cascade also has bits that cut the same profile in narrower stock.

In addition. Cascade has an ogee-with-fillet profile in three sizes—VA inches. The other two vendors have a familiar 2-inch-high cove-and- bead profile. All of these bits look basically like the cove molding cutters discussed above. The same caveats apply: Use a 2-horscpowcr router, mounted in a table, with a fcncc to guide the work.

You are addressing a lot of stock with each pass, so take several passes to complete a cut to full depth. Dish cutter Surprised? This bit. It is a shallow bit, with radiused comers on the cutting edges. It cuts a smooth, liar-bottomed groove with a radiused transition from bottom to wall. This makes it useful for hollowing out fairly broad flats. It's also useful for cutting a relief into the back of a wide molding.

Stock moldings like baseboard and casing have a relief, which is a shallow recess, in the back surfacc so the molding can bridge mismatches between a wall surface and a door or window jamb. Face molding bit: These bits are designed for routing architectural moldings. Each is a combination of the basic forms—beads, coves, gentle ogees, and so forth. Every bit manufacturer seems to have two to four of them in its catalog—they're the same four profiles, too—but Amana, MLCS, and Eagle America seem to have the widest assortments.

The vertical orientation allows the bit to cut beads, something it couldn't do in the horizontal orientation. Typically, the bits arc an inch in diameter with a cutter height of 1 Vi inches. Most have pilot bearings. The bit should be used in a router table, and the stock guided along a fence with some hold-downs.

Multiform bit: With this one bit. While 1 expect this is true. All of the catalogs display a few of the "almost unlimited possibilities," and it always seems they're heavy, steep, and extraordinarily busy.

The multiform bits are all fairly large, ranging up to 2 inches in diameter. Some versions have a pilot bearing, others don't. All should be used exclusively in router tables , with 2- or more horsepower routers. The larger-diameter bits should be run at reduced speed. By adjusting the bit height and fence settings, making multiple passes, and altering the angle of attack, you can produce a lot of different profiles with these basic bits.

A common practice is to stack of build up separate moldings into a wide or heavy profile. This is what we did to create the three-pan crown molding shown on page To make a crown molding for a room, you might shape the edges of two boards, then assemble them into an L-shape. Next you make another strip or two that will fill in the Lwith complementary shapes. These strips are usually relatively narrow, so a single pass over the router general!

Let's look at a couple of specific examples of built-up moldings and see how they arc made and used. In each example, one or two of the elements are stock moldings. This casing has one edge rounded-over on about a Winch radius, but it's otherwise totally unembel-I is bed.

It does have the relief on the back for bridging irregularities between wall surfaces and jamb edges. MLCS lists this bit as item This bit should be used in cither the regular or the horizontal router table, depending.

The cut will leave a ridge at the edge of the rasing; this will he removed in the next step. The full profile requires. On the regular router table, this means adjusting the fence location between passes.

On the horizontal table , it means raising the router mounting board herween passes. After the main profile is cut, rout the cove on the edge. Use either a cove bit or a core-box bit. This element is now completed. Make the backhand next. Mill a Roman Ogee Baseboard Router Bit 70 length of Vfc-inch by 1 Ma-inch stock for each piece of casing you've prepared. Then cut a Mc-inch by 'Mfinch rabbet in each backhand. You can glue the backhand to the fusing, but it is just us eusy to nail it in place when you install the trim.

The baseboard used in this assemblage is a stock molding. Like the sanitary casing used in the preceding molding project, this is 'Kfinch-thick stock with one radiused edge and no other embellishment. It docs have a relief area on the back. This trim is used as is. First use the face molding bit with the profile shown in Baselward with Cap and Shoe. It's Ml. CS's Rout this profile on the edge of a 3-inch-wide piece of stock. If you need several lengths, you can rout the profile on both edges of this piece.

This should remove the full bead the previous operation formed. This can be a dicey cut, since the work-piece is very thin. If the grain isn't straight, the cut may trash the edge. The best approach is to set the bit to the final height, but adjust the fence so the bit barely nicks the edge.

Make about three passes, adjusting the fence for each. Routing architectural molding requires you to work some very long pieces. My setup for routing the cap included four fingerboards and a roller stand to sup-port the stock on the outfeed side.

To get a smwth finish, you want to keep the stock mov ing as steadily as jtossi-hle, which is tough to do when routing a or foot strip by yourself. So after making a couple of passes to rough out the maiding, I enlisted help to complete the final pass. You and the helper can alternate pushing and pulling to keep the stock moving. The shoe is a basic covc-and-bead cut on Winch stock. Then cut the roundovcr using a Winch round-over bit. It goes best if you use a bit with no pilot. Again, make these cuts on a piece that's at least mice as wide as the finished shoe.

You can cut two profiles on one piece, then rip it in half, separating them. If you do this, cut one profile into each face so it remains stable when you rout. What if you don't want to use a bunch of strips? Your project deserves a solid molding that's all one piece with no glue line and no mismatched grain.

Now you'll have to make a single molding with multiple passes over the router. This doesn't look. The setup for rabbeting away the bead formed as part of the first cut demonstrates one of the reasons for routing the base cap on a fairly wide piece of wood. You 71 hove a flat surface to reference against the router tablctop after the initial pro-pie cut is made. And by alternating the side on which you rout,you can get two caps from one workpiece without sacrificing the flat reference section of cither face.

To get the feather board 's pressure on the right spot, as here, it may be necessaiy to insert a spacer between the feather-board and the fence or router mounting hoard. The tricky part comes when you realize that the shape you wanted to put in the middle would require you to extend the router bit 2 inches out of the collet. No can do. So how do you get to the middle of the board? The trick is to stick with simple shapes out in the middle of the board.

Use shapes that you can get with your unpiloted or grooving cutters. Core-box or roundnose cutters are good; dish cutters with round edges and fiat bottoms are excellent. To produce beads or ribs, you'll have to make two passes with an unpiloted ogee or round-over. And you'll have to think, as you set up each cut. You can accomplish molding work with a hand-held router, but you'll have a struggle.

It's much easier to use the router in a router table, where you can use special runners to support the stock and keep it securely in place with fcatherboards. And that's critical!

A tiny bit of unplanned movement can ruin a piece of molding that already has several passes complete. Or at least make you work a lot to sand out the goof. Let's rout a hypothetical molding. This will give you a specific example of what can be accomplished that may serve to launch you in your own directions. Fancy door casing : Suppose 1 want to trim out an entrance door in a special way.

What I have in mind is fairly classical—there's that word! The casing will have two large full beads, a couple of grooves fomicd in routing the beads, and four flutes sec Fancy Door Casing. I'm going to start with 1-inch-thick stock, because the total relief is going to be pretty dramatic. Rip i to 5 inchcs wide. This reverse glue joint router bit makes fast, accurate glue-ups and strong joints to fabricate large panels for doors, cabinets or table tops.

Cut a keyhole slot with a wider slot beneath the surface, for flush wall mounting pictures and other objects without wires. These lettering and point cutting router bits enable you to create custom letters for sign making.

This floating lettering router bit undercuts letters to make signs that stand out. Lapped mitre router bits designed to create strong self-aligning mitre joints in plywood and MDF. These router bits produce strong and beautiful lock mitre joints for kitchen cabinetry, drawers, four-sided planters, boxes, picture frames and much more.

Two-flute mortice and tenon router bits that deliver clean edges, flat bottoms and perfect shoulders on tenons. Cut dozens of classical profiles with our multi-profile router bits. Vary the cutter height, fence position and number of passes to produce an almost unlimited variety of shapes. This very clever multi-radius router bit will give you the ability to switch back and forth among three popular radii without ever changing bits.

Ovolo router bits can cut simple roundovers and dramatic veins, decorate large panels or even plunge cut to produce eye-catching rosettes. The Queen Anne router bit mills the oval shape found on the edges of many pieces of fine furniture.

These radius grooving router bits are great for custom sign making, veining, lettering and edge work. One- and two-piece router bit sets to make perfect-fitting rail and stile joints. These back cutter router bits cut a rebate rabbet in the back of raised door panels to keep the face flush with the rail and stile door frame. Horizontal raised panel router bits with integrated back cutters for making wooden doors. These quality rebate rabbet router bits produce inset door and drawer faces, cut strong rebated joints, inset cabinet backs and more.

This innovative stepped rebate router bit cuts a double-step on the back of picture and mirror frames in a single pass for holding the glass and a backing piece. Give any surface a special touch with a delicate cove or an eye-catching vein with our roundnose router bits.

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