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I found that de-tensioning and re-tensioning led to constantly adjusting the tracking with consequent fiddling with the blade guides. In the commercial shops that I know they never de-tension the bandsaw blades. Do you know anything about really big band saws? It has a couple of horse motor driving it. I hope to saw logs and resaw wide oak and walnut with it.
However, it has no tires. My bandsaw and a joiner are the only power tools I use too. Chris, As you said, an expensive blade is well worth the investment.
Do you have any experience with those low tension Timber Wolf blades? Just wondering if they are worth it. Thanks for the link for the blades. Changed my bandsawing life forever. Go to the site, get the number and call them. Tell them what it is primarily you want to do and they will hook you up. Elsie like you I pay full retail, get no freebie blades for this suggestion, but it has changed my bandsaw into a resawing machine. Italian bandsaws are very easy to adjust and work great to help improve the cut.
If you think providing your drag queen name provides you some anonymity… Check this out:. I thought that thicker blades, and carbide tipped blades are thicker, would not tension well on a run of the mill bandsaw.
And for me, a smaller blade at high tension cuts better, especially resawing, than a wider blade at less tension — at least for non-carbide blades. Is tensioning this blade at all an issue? Chris I hope you let folks know that the carbide tipped blades are wonderful for dry lumber.
If they are cutting wet wood like logs etc. They need a different blade all together. I need to start sharpening them. Oh, and ignore that other, um, person and keep writing. We know and love what you are doing, those of us with brains anyway. How can a seemingly innocuous article in a woodworking magazine prompt such an acrimonious outburst as that. And you say you have to put up with much more of this rubbish from other sources all the time!?
Could I suggest you forward his comments to a suitable psychiatric publication? Those who require a low tension, long-lasting blade that works well at all revs will find this to be the best band saw blade for its purpose. Anyone who has used a bandsaw extensively knows how often it is necessary to replace the blades. Most bandsaw blades don't last very long, and in fact, any use of a bandsaw requires having at least one spare blade at hand, due to the risk of a blade breaking during use.
While this problem is simply unavoidable due to the nature of a bandsaw, you can at least have a blade that is guaranteed to be more durable than others. Featuring a Matrix II High Speed Steel Edge, this portable bandsaw blade has been made to be highly resistant to both heat and wear, guaranteeing it a longer service life than other blades.
The Laguna Bandsaw Blade Reviews Rc Tooth Hardness gives the teeth increased wear resistance, and the alloy steel backer aids in fatigue resistance, all making this one of the most durable and wear resistant bandsaw blades on the market. The short length of this particular blade makes it ideal only for portable bandsaws, but those who have one will that this is the best band saw blade for portable bandsaws.
Bandsaws often require more than one type of blade, depending on the type of work that they are used for. Both wood and metal working often requires blades of different types and sizes, meaning that there is simply no "one size fits all" solution. Therefore, it is usually a good idea to have blades of multiple sizes on hand, especially if there is a variety of different work to be done with the bandsaw.
The blades included in this package are all made of premium grade steel, giving them good durability. The best feature of the blades, though, is the optimized tooth geometry used for them, giving them the best performance in cutting while also preventing the build-up and ingress of debris. This helps extend the service life of both the blades and the bandsaw, as well as making a safer work environment.
One small drawback to the blades is that they do tend to run hot with extended use, but this can be minimized by taking regular breaks during work, letting them cool off before being used again.
All in all, this three blade package provides your bandsaw with premium blades that are sure to perform well. Not all bandsaw blades perform the same. Bandsaw blades tend to vary greatly in their build, including the differing sizes, TPI, and Kerf, making different blades best suited only for specific types of work. Along with that, the shape of the teeth tends to make them also vary in performance, with some blades providing a smoother cut than others.
This bandsaw blade is made of premium grade steel, giving it a high durability and long service life. In fact, blades made by Bosch tend to carry a great reputation with them, as they are renowned for being sturdier and more durable than other competing brands. This blade features an optimized tooth geometry that gives it the ability to cut through various types of metal, giving an extremely smooth, even cut without rough edges.
The length of the blade is For those who are looking for a long-lasting blade that provides the smoothest cut, this band saw blade is your best bet. Bandsaws tend to come in various sizes, ranging from small portable models to very large ones used for heavy-duty work. With this variation in sizes, that means that not all band saw blades are suitable for all models.
This is especially true for larger bandsaws, which require longer blades. This long band saw blade can cut through a variety of different materials, including wood, metal, drywall, or other materials often used in construction, making it great for all-around use.
The blade is made of high carbon steel, giving it great resiliency as well as providing great cutting action. This is aided by the shape of the teeth, with a hardness of Rc , which make it quite useful for longitudinal and transverse cuts. A drawback of this particular blade makes it less suitable for use at high speeds, but this is generally true of most longer band saw blades.
The overall quality and cutting power of this blade makes it the best band saw blade for use in larger bandsaws, with a guarantee of better performance than any OEM blade. If this is what you are looking for, then be sure to give this band saw blade a try. Many of those who have done any kind of wood or metal working are familiar with a band saw.
A band saw is a type of tool that uses a long toothed blade that is rapidly spun around wheels in order to provide a fast and accurate cutting action. The main advantage of this tool is in its ability to provide an even cutting action as well as curved or irregular cuts, making it a very commonly used tool in construction, woodworking, metalworking, and lumbering.
Between those two saws you likely will never see a difference in daily use. For the blade speed that size saw runs, and the max size blade it will really tension, I don't see the need for paying extra for 3hp over 1. I doubt a 15" will really tension a 1" blade, but maybe they're talking about a thin one.
I don't see it tensioning a 1" Woodmaster. So is the consensus to not over analyze this and stick with the original decision of purchasing the 14bx? I am in a similar situation to Alan with an interest in either a Laguna 14bx 2.
I have a acre tree farm and would like to harvest the occasional trees that fall, process the logs thus requiring adequate resaw capability and utilize the boards in a variety of woodworking projects again using the bandsaw for the project work.
Digging deeper, the fourth saw that has my attention is the Laguna LT14 x14 SUV souped up version with 3hp, 14" resaw and lb weight and it seems like it would be a more fair comparison to the Jet 15". While I am still researching and very much open to any input anyone has , I am leaning toward the Jet JWBS with the edge going toward the horsepower, option of using a 1" blade for resawing, and the extra weight. For now though, I'm still window shopping and researching.
If you want to make boards out of logs, you need much more saw than either one of these. Horsepower is near the bottom of the list of things that matter. Blade tensioning, and blade speed is what matters when speed is important. Both of those things come with size. Either of these saws is for someone who wants to make a piece of furniture, now and then.
Free Spirit, I agree with Tom. All of the saws you listed are fine saws for doing what they're designed to do. They will all make veneers out of dry boards, cut the occasional blank into turning stock, etc. You're wanting to put wet trees through whichever saw you go with. That's a different application and one that calls for a different saw altogether. You need to consider a bandsaw mill for harvesting trees into lumber.
We got the 14SUV a couple of years ago and it is one fine saw. It will resaw about Our saw has the 1" Resaw King blade and it tensions just fine but it is a thin blade. If you want to see it in action on that particular cut here's a short video I've posted this before but I like the video - LOL!
That's a nice cut. What was the actual time of making the resaw cut though? That's why I was saying either would be a fine saw for making an occasional piece of furniture, but not really for producing a lot of resawn lumber.
I tried to find a youtube video of someone using a large bandsaw with a 1" Woodmaster CT 1. I'll try to remember to make one the next time I use mine. I tried every good blade there was on my 14" bandsaw, and when I bought the 24", that really could tension the Woodmaster blade, I sold all the carbide tipped resaw blades for the 14". The same cut that took 20 seconds or maybe it was not remembering clearly , took 2 seconds on the big saw, with no loss of cut quality.
I don't remember the tooth count on the Resaw King I had for the 14", but the Woodmaster is 1. I'm not trying to run down the smaller saws, but there is much more to it than simply size and hp. When people say it can't really tension a 1" blade, I think they are thinking Woodmaster, rather than Resaw King.
I don't remember the thicknesses of the Resaw King, and the Woodmaster CT, but the difference is significant. I don't see significant difference between a 14 and 15 inch saw.
The 24" has about a 4 hp, and it never gets warm, even pushing it hard for a couple of hours. Thanks, Tom. I went back and looked at the original video and both cuts took right at I could have cut it faster but there were several factors involved - this was the first time I had cut anything that wide, it wasn't my piece of wood someone sent it to me to cut , and it was expensive and there were no backup pieces if I messed this up.
But, this is just our little home shop and not a production facility so 90 seconds is fully acceptable to me. For us in our little setup that represented some cuts that demanded our attention. It's a good saw that I only use for resawing so the 1" Resaw King blade never comes off; I don't even have other blades other than a backup for this one.
I have a King-Seeley 12" that I use for everything else. In my particular situation, there are two issues that lead me away from a bandsaw mill and to one of the bandsaws I listed. The second is that you can't always have everything at least at once , and given the choice between a bandsaw mill with one primary purpose and a bandsaw that can perform routine bandsaw work and additionally do some mill work within it's capabilities , the later option seems like the best place to start.
My personal log milling will generally be the occasional fallen or dying tree as well as any cull trees trees harvested to allow more valuable nearby growing timber to prosper and consist of logs less than 14" in diameter and typically cut into a 4'-6' section for easy handling.
Back at the shop, they will likely turn into 1" maybe up to 2" thick boards and stickered perhaps in a homemade solar kiln until dry and ready for use in whichever projects that happen to develop.
Larger logs and more valuable timber that are not part of a scheduled harvest would be taken to the nearby commercial hardwood sawmill less than 4 miles away and sold, or perhaps a local Amish or similar mill for sale or processing.
I'm not looking at a lot of dedicated home milling and am basically focusing on utilizing what I have readily available and preventing it from simply becoming a piece of firewood or left to rot as forest debris. Being retired, time isn't a huge factor and thus I can deal with a slower speed of cut as well as a longer drying time for thicker stock before being resawn at a later date.
The additional shop-time and intricacies involved in home-harvested wood and processing can be rewarding in itself and my goal is to continue enjoying my retirement status and not become overly involved in a high production operation.
From what I've been able to find online videos, forums, etc. I truly DO appreciate all of the feedback and the other posts on this forum and the insight presented. The brain cells have kicked in to weigh each point and I am continuing to refine and further my research with the hope that the end result will bring many years of pleasure. Check Craigslist near you to see if you can find a used, big bandsaw.
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