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king-canada-belt-and-disc-sander-engine Meta-Wiki Wikimedia project coordination. Out with my wife on a Sunday drive, thought the clicking was a pebble in the tire tread at first. You do have to fit it snugly! Panama, Saudi Hey John: Thank you for the fast reply and for the tip about the rivets. Anyway, locally someone knowledgeable about the early style of MGB rear end said if it got that hot, not only are the bearings ruined but the bearing housings in the axle casting are probably distorted and I'm better off just finding bflt good used entire rear axle assembly and substituting this one for my old.

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It is a shy bird, and its distinctive call is heard more often than the bird is seen. It forages on the forest floor, bobbing its head up and down and flicking its tail, searching for insects, woodlice, snails and other invertebrates. Its diet includes some fruit, and it cracks open the shells of molluscs on an anvil. Photograph credit: John Harrison. Wikipedia is hosted by the Wikimedia Foundation , a non-profit organization that also hosts a range of other projects :.

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Archive Start a new article Nominate an article. Windsor Bridge submerged in western Sydney. Nominate an article. Catherine of Vadstena d. Whittaker d. More anniversaries: March 23 March 24 March Archive By email List of days of the year. Today's featured picture The noisy pitta Pitta versicolor is a species of bird in the pitta family, Pittidae, found in eastern Australia and southern New Guinea, where it mainly occurs in rainforest, but sometimes in drier woodland and scrub.

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Village pump — For discussions about Wikipedia itself, including areas for technical issues and policies. Rebuild one part at a time. Need complete chassis measurement specs for CarBench chassis straightening mahine.

Car's chassis number is GHD G. I do have a set of measurements for the MGB, but cannot send them easily on this machine don't know how , but would be willing to fax them to you. However, I have technical seminars starting next week Wednesday and those last for three weeks -- it's combat time for me and I won't have an extra minute.

But, if you send the number, I'll try to get it out to you on Monday. Can you tell me the correct color of green for a mgb. I am going to paint it usun enamel. I believe your car is Mallard Green, which has some blue in it. This was the official green for Dear Mr Snake Even though your car was "totally" painted, there are sections, notably under the dash, that were not covered with the BRG.

You have limited choices here. The first is less expensive: find a paint shop that will go the distance for you in finding the correct code. I know that PPG, the parent of Ditzler, has a color library in Detroit or Cleveland, and they will give you an "eye match" from your old color to a modern mix. I expect other manufacturers can provide the same service. The second is to have someone outside California get the color mixed, spray it onto a panel, and send that panel to you.

Then your paint shop can match a modern mix to the older lacquer color. Let me know. Your unsigned letter using no capitals was difficult to read.

John: As much as I would like to load my '72 MGB on a flatbed and have it driven to Grand Rapids to have the true experts perform some much needed body work, at the present time, my wife simply will not allow it.

I am wondering if you have any knowledge of a reputable body shop in central Illinois or the St. Louis, Missouri area which has experience and a good reputation for restoration work on MGs. Thanks in advance for any assistance you can offer. Brett K. Contact John Mangles who operates a body shop in the greater St Louis area. He's known throughout the MG clubs there. John, I'm looking for a Sebring Lightweight body kit. I know that I have seen them in magazine articles.

I have a '68 B-GT that would be perfect for this. Can you help me locate one of these kits? Thanks in advance for the help, Mark L. I am sorry to be of no help whatsoever.

Hi John: I have another very basic TD questions? I have looked through my meager collection of books on T Series MGs and cannot find a photo showing three blades. But the claim seems to have some merit. The arm that extends from the motor to the connecting bar, that sweeps the left and right wiper blades, has a holder that is similar to the left and right arms and seems might accommodate a center blade.

Is there suppose to be a center blade? I would like my car to be as original as possible. Stu Keen. The British owner of your local classic English shop is mistaken. The centre placed wiper motor still carried two wipers, just as the RH placed motor. However, it is possible, and some prefer, to fit three blades on the two speed motor too slow, or too fast! I need three captive nuts for the safety catch on an aluminum MGB hood.

The nuts insert into the receptacles on the hood and are twisted 90 degrees to be retained for mounting the safety catch.

Please advise if you can supply them or know of anyone who can. Thank you, R. Mr Watson! I would try to find a shop who can fit "Riv-nuts". We use these to repair the fixing points on the body which accept the fixing bolts for the top bows on the MGA and MGB. Call around to some body shops. John, I am doing some minor home restoration of my "67 B-GT. I am repainting the "trunk" space under the rear deck. Was the factory color the yellow paint that I am seeing?

My memory of the color has faded. I've seen this colour only several times. It's very rare! I am certain that the factory did not paint a bright yellow in the spare tire area! The bodies were primed and painted at Pressed Steel and delivered to Abingdon with doors, boot, bonnet, and the tops fitted.

The only place I know to find the "School Bus Yellow" yellow, is on the fan and pulley. Wish I could offer you more! I am doing my best at catching up with a LOT!! The original fender welting on the MGA has a "T" cross section. I like the Volkswagen black T fender welting myself -- I believe it looks better in almost all color combinations than the original gray stuff. Any other colors? Well, try a VW supplier. Of course, you can always have fender welting made, but then it is a rolled type folding material over a piece of small diameter hose or plastic filament.

If you've already found something, let me know what do happened upon so the next time someone asks it won't take so long to answer! I plan on hoisting off, lifting at four points, but the box beams under the doors are seriously rusted out and I don't trust them for strength and don't want the body to clamshell on me.

I will brace across the doorways at top solidly. Door posts are in very good shape. Any thoughts about this? Remove the front and rear cockpit surround. Cut two pieces of electrical conduit or water pipe, just long enough to fit across the cockpit, front to rear. Run the threaded rod from the back, through the pipe, and secure it on both ends with nuts under the dash and under the rear "shelf". Use washers to achieve a good fit so you don't pull the cowl or rear! Now the car is really stiff and you can lift it away without damaging the sills any further.

Achieving a good fit on the MGA body is a quest rarely completed. Remember, the doors do not lie! All fitting comes from the doors and the front door posts. Weld in the repair sections for the post, the inner sill, the outer sill -- as much as possible BEFORE removing the body from the frame. After the body is off, complete the welding on the inside. Twist Does the fact that your company has achieved British Motor Heritage Approval mean that Heritage body shells are available thru your company?

They are now one of two approved workshops in the United States and one of about a half dozen who are authorised to display the MG logo in North America. There are two types of Heritage Approved Specialists -- one type me can use the logos; the other type Moss, Victoria, Roadster Factory can purchase Heritage and Rover parts at a great discount. We are a service shop and have no mail order parts -- we do sell parts from the front counter.

You know that a body shell rebuild requires a fantastic amount of work! Good Luck! Hi: I am going to put a new top on my MGB this coming week end and in the instructions it says to glue the top to the front bow.

Could you tell me what type of glue to use? Thank you. Dennis Vallier. We use two types of glue in the shop: and , both made by 3M.

The is the better glue, as if, by some reason, you make an error, you can peel the top away from the top bow. Use the BTW, be certain to shake out all the old rivets from the hole on the left right? Hey John: Thank you for the fast reply and for the tip about the rivets. I'll be sure to get the glue because I'm not that good at getting it right the first time. I just put in a new windshield 5 tries but I did get finally. Thanks again! Well, we live on Buttrick, just three houses north of 28th Street.

Not the 28th you know and love, but the rural one with houses and barns. Our kids go to Thornapple Elementary. The shop is on Fulton, just a mile west of Amway.

Stop by if you come back up this way! I can't decide on what color the car should be , but I want it to be an original. I was just wondering if there are any other original colors that I can look into before I make a decision. Please write me back soon to let me know. You've got the colors down, alright. That Carmine Red is a slight derivation from Damask Red, a maroon, used from ! If you want a good looking engine compartment, my personal favorite is Inca -- it makes the underside and underbonnet areas "electric.

Russet Brown is, well, an "earth" color. Leyland White is as brilliant as a refrigerator! I tell people who are considering a color change to go out to a car lot -- drive around, look at the cars, and choose a modern, color.

After all, it's YOUR car -- you can paint it what you want -- purple with pink pokadots if that's your fantasy. If you do not completely strip and repaint the underbonnet area, then the car will always look AWFUL when the bonnet is up!

If you need assistance with color codes, etc, write back. Here goes: I couldn't easily print the list here, so I've sent it as an attachment in Microsoft Word.

I hope you can receive and read that format! Moss Motors has an excellent supply of the parts you'll need. My preference is to use a BRG but I want to be historically accurate. This car is not intended to be a concours car but rather a regular driver. Any recommendations? A couple of notes about the colours: British Racing Green is like the word "tree. So it is with British Racing Green. My wife's research shows a BLVC 22 code. That New Racing Green is very dark and very nice, but it's not correct.

It's your car! Paint it the colour you want. Mallard has a lot of blue in it -- it's a very nice colour! Twist, I would like to install a canvas top on my MBG. I notice in the Moss catalog the they are available for - only. What would I have to do to install one on my car?

What do you think of the canvas tops? I appreciate your help. Sincerely, Wilburt Easom. My computer was down for a while, and I got sooooo far behind.

Perhaps this will help at this late date. There are three types of soft top frames -- all of which will fit all MGBs from There is the stow-away variety which separates in the middle, stows in the boot, and allows for a great amount of room in the cockpit. There is the scissors or knee action, designed by a sadist, which was fitted from about - Then, there is the wonderful Michelotti incorrectly, but commonly pronounced Mich a lotty -- instead of the correct Italian Mick a lotty which will accept the zip out top.

I prefer the vinyl tops, but those fabric tops certainly look nice! Hi, I have a 77 MGB tourer, and was wondering if you knew where to ge the suspension conversion kit to take my 77 rubber bumper and convert it to a chrome bumper MG, I can't find anywhere that has it. Mike Smith. You wrote last April so you've probably already received answers and have decided on a course of action. My advice, at long last, is to leave the rubber bumpers on your car.

If you want a chrome bumpered car, buy one -- don't try to make one! I did change a rubber bumpered car to a chrome bumpered one -- once. I wouldn't do it again!

Hi John, I hope you have had a nice holiday season and the very best to you for the New Year. Do you know of a source where I can buy the rubber to replace around my side curtains of my MGA? Thanks, Stan.

You have asked the "eternal" question. That is, I've had this question for twenty years and still don't have a pat answer. There are several rubber extrusion firms which make a host of differently sized and shaped cross sections.

This week I'm on vacation in North Carolina. John, Do you have any idea where I could possibly get a "life size" template for cutting carpet to fit a MGB. I have a body that has no carpet currently in it.

So removing the old carpet and using it as a template is not an option. The special order dealers I have checked to order custom made carpets are definitely out of my financial league. I can get the carpeting material locally. However, I would have to attempt to cut via hit and miss. I have seen. Any ideas?????? This is my suggestion.

Use very thick paper, or better, cardboard, and make templates. You don't need one big chunk of cardboard -- just keep taping one piece to another. Then you'll have a suitable template from which you can cut your carpet. The hot setup would be to trim the carpeting so it "fits like a glove" and then have the edges bound. Automotive upholstery shops are often surprisingly inexpensive for such work.

We make templates from cardboard for wood floor boards for the MGBs, so this is a "proven" method! John John: Woohoo got it!!! I am cooking with bacon grease now You are a scholar and a gentleman I don't plan to install the carpet until this spring, but getting them at least cut and fitted is a worthwhile winter project. By the way The sills on both sides are shot, those support bars that hold the battery boxes in place I looked underneath the car and saw that a few bars have completely rusted through are pitiful if not altogether gone and the floor boards are like Chinese rice paper.

The instrument fascia is bent in places and I swear looks crooked to me and dash gauges are alas And my blue MG is very hard to start at this point I know you do restorations Welding is not my forte a skill I hope to earn at some point but the car does need body work done to it.

No sense in me trying to pretty up the interior if the body isn't sound. Aside from a full restoration as listed on your site; could you do the minor body work well minor in my eyes I require???

Since I am already begging Once I have you guys get the body "de-rusted" could you then paint the car at your facility???? We do body work! We can paint the car, too, but we'll need to see it to really give you the options and the costs. There are two types of paint jobs -- complete and partial; there are two qualities of paint jobs -- "tape and spray" and "disassembly.

Are you still in the reserves? Is there a chance you'll get called up, or worse, called back? John John, Long time no talk. Company bonus time approaches mid April I just saw a MGB with a cabriolet top. It actually folded back just like on modern car, manually but it folded right onto the car!!! It was beautiful. The frame was totally concealed and the header rail was in the same matching material.

Could one of these cabriolet tops be placed obviously with the correct modifications onto a 67? Still planning on bring the car up in April and have you guys do a thorough check on it. I have been working a bit on getting her running a little more reliable cleaned up the float mechanism on one of the carburetors last night so I won't have tow the car up to you. Still can't get her to idle less than rpm without her cutting off. However, she does start up far more reliably so that's a start the engine was totally seized up 2 weeks ago when I started.

I have pretty much removed all the rotted carpeting, crappy seats, torn panels, etc. The car is gutted. Hoping I can have you guys do all the "ugly" looking stuff I have found. I have stopped most of the engine oil and fuel leaks, but still have a electrical problems no interior lights of any sort, no heater blower, no horn, etc, etc which I am no way versed on repairing.

Do you guys only do seminars in Feb? Nothing else during the year? I love working on the car. I would love to do some more technical stuff, but lack the experience. If you decide on doing other seminars sign me up!!!!. Thanks for the concern about the whole war thing Nope "I'se aint got ta go". A broken collar bone and shoulder have put on the "lame and useless" list I have seen enough wars Panama, Saudi I must honesty say I am glad I won't be the one worrying which person of a man Maintenance Company I might not bring home.

I lost two soldiers in Saudi Let us hope the whole world comes to it senses. I always read your updates with great interest. It would probably be best for us to finish our "complete lubrication" before you purchase a new cabriolet top. You know, our lube will put everything into perspective for you -- we'll have a "complete" list of all the faults and their approximate costs of repair.

We'll look forward to seeing you up here in April. Hope your bones heal King Canada Belt And Disc Sander System quickly! John, Is there a good way to display club badges on a rubber bumper MGB? Does anyone make a retrofit bar for the 'B"? Thanks, Al Webster. If you want a "chrome" badge bar, then you'll have to fit it horizontally through the fresh air opening in the bumper and fix it horizontally to the small shelf, just behind the fresh air grille. I have seen some of these at meets, but if Moss doesn't carry them www.

Do you have any tips on fitting a new top to the header piece. It seems like I have to strech it so tight that it will not close. Thanks Bill. A couple of notes at this late date. Make sure you shake out all the rivets from the hole in the end of the header bar or you will forever listen to the metallic rush of those rivets every time you turn a corner. Fit the top on the hottest day, at the hottest time during the day so the top has expanded a LOT. Fit it snug at the centre of the header bar and work outwards.

Use 3M glue. You do have to fit it snugly! If you have any further questions, drop me a note or give me a call during technical hour. John, Thanks for all of your help to the British car community over the years. I have a question regarding the windshield wipers. My MGB has water getting in the car on the wiper cable. It drains down one side onto my ankles, but worse yet it walks down the cable the other direction and gets into the wiper motor. I took my motor apart recently, and the whole inside is rusted.

The brushes are shot, so I am going to buy a new motor. I don't want to put it in, however, until I stop the leaks. I have replaced all three of the gaskets on the wiper transmissions, and sealed them with windshield sealer, but the leaks persist. Any ideas? Thanks, Dave. I would take some clear RTV Silicone Sealant and squirt it under the gasket at the base of the windscreen pillar foot.

Use a liberal amount and King Canada Belt And Disc Sander Jacket wipe off the excess. John,Thanks for all of your help to the British car community over the years. My MGB haswater getting in the car on the wiper cable. It drains down one sideonto my ankles, but worse yet it walks down the cable the otherdirection and gets into the wiper motor.

I took my motor apartrecently, and the whole inside is rusted. The brushes are shot, so I amgoing to buy a new motor. I don't want to put it in, however, until Istop the leaks.

I have replaced all three of the gaskets on the wipertransmissions, and sealed them with windshield sealer, but the leakspersist. I would take some clear RTV Silicone Sealant andsquirt it under the gasket at the base of the windscreen pillar foot. Use aliberal amount and wipe off the excess. I can't seem to remove the swivel piece of glass to properly fit and install new seals. Your advices are appreciated.

Thank You, Richard Coleman Richard! It is necessary to remove the nut from the bottom of the "swivel pin" which lies frustratingly, inaccessibly within the door.

Unless that nut comes loose very easily, I would -- you won't like this -- I would gut the door -- rear track, then front assembly. It's a real hassle getting it out, but you won't break anything! Then, you can work carefully with the nut on the bench -- AND, you can have the time to clean up the assembly.

If you're determined to do it in place, spray it down with WD for a couple days before wrenching on that nut! The nut is a nylock and hold a spring sandwiched between itself and a plate on the underside of the door skin.

I am starting the restoration of a MGTD. I have purchased all new wood and am ready to install some of the pieces. I am wondering if the wood should be painted the same color as the body or leave it natural. Do you have any information to assist me??? I've had a number of T type tubs apart and the metal is certainly painted where it's exposed; it's primed everywhere; but the only paint on the wood is overspray.

Instead of purchasing new hinges would it be possible to bore out the hinge and install bushings and a new pin? Best Regards, Chris. I've never repaired an MGB door hinge, but have done so -- in the manner you suggest -- with T types.

I'm certain your method will work! The hinge determines how the front of the door lines up with the front wing skin side to side, not fore and aft. John, Do you have or know where I can find a conversion kit to convert from rubber to chrome bumpers? I have a MGB that I would like to convert. Thanks, Jim Ray.

Take my advice to heart. If you want a chrome bumper MGB, buy one!! A cobbled MG. Offhand, these are some of the things you have to do: change the front fenders; change the rear fenders; change the front crossmember; shorten the steering; lower the body onto the rear axle - or - move the axle UP with spacers a lot of sway!

I wouldn't do it. BUT, if you insist, I can find some name of people who have done it who can give you some pointers -- but they may give you the same unsolicited advice first!

The earlier cars T types came with nitrocellulose lacquer. The MGAs had several finishes. The MGBs and Midgets came in enamel, but probably not acrylic, as that's a fairly newer process. What are you doing? Dear sirs, as i am currently involved in a restauration project, i am looking for the original paints of "british racing green" and "lotus yellow".

Thank you for any inspiration, yours, truly,. I am completely unfamiliar withy Lotus Yellow. British Racing Green is as specific as the word "tree.

What year and model are you trying to paint? John: I replaced the rubber seal on my 72' MGB trunk lid. Since then the trunk lid does not sit flush with the rest of the body. I have tried adjusting the hinges, lock etc without success. Any suggesstion? Good Day, I found your address through British Motor Heritage web site and you are the closest to me. I am located in Carleton Place Ontario, just outside of Ottawa.

I just purchased this car and wil be starting my project this fall and want to do a cost comparison of all bodywork, time to reshell if avail in North America. While we are within the Heritage Network, our licence covers our workshop -- we do not purchase parts from Heritage. This is my suggestion -- call The Roadster Factory in Armagh, PA and see if they'll bring one in for you -- or, call Brown and Gammons, Baldock, Herts, and see what it will cost of sent one to you.

Let me know what you find out and what you decide to do! Hi John. I have a question Thanks to Larry Gillion, a friend. I was told that your are the master on MGA's that can help. My question is," Why does my car have a aluminum front bumper"? It's all aluminum, no question about it! Can you Help? The original MGA bumpers are not much different than the ones you purchase today from Moss -- steel, plated in copper, then nickel, then chrome. The bumpers you have -- the aluminium ones -- those were aftermarket bumpers made by Tasker Metal Products probably 30 years ago.

Tasker continues to make grilles, etc. They might have some interesting information if you were to ask I never have! Hello John, My question is: Do the bolts in the bonnet channels get painted were they painted from the factory? Also, was the engine number plate painted from factory? Thanks, Rich. Hello, I was interested in buying a MGB, which of course has the plastic bumpers.

However, I have read a few articles online which give directions on how to convert from plastic to chrome. I was wondering if your company would be able to provide such a service and for how much? The "rule" here is: If you want chrome bumpers, buy a chrome bumpered MGB!

It is very expensive to change from rubber to chrome. John, Is there piping on both sides of the interior trim rails on an MGA? Top and bottom of the dash cockpit, crash rail; outsides only of the door cockpit rails; outsides only of the curved pieces at the rear of the doors; outside only of the strip across the back -- on the front side of this piece is fitted the pocket for the side curtains.

The part is no longer available. Any suggestions on a replacement and sealant? Thanks, Jeff. I assume you mean the glazing between the metal "U" and the door glass, within the doors? I know we've used the newer Moss MGA windscreen rubber frame to glass. Be sure to support the glass with blocks of wood in your vise -- you need to hold the glass really fast so you can fit the metal "U" -- a large, soft hammer works well to urge the pieces together.

If you get scared, just take the individual pieces to a glass shop. Hi John 1. Loved reading your tech accumulated tech tips. Noticed the "sage advice" about converting a rubber bumper MGB to the chrome bumpers, and why go through the hassle? I have a one owner MGB with only 31, actual miles on it.

Got it from the owner when he retired and moved back to England last fall. My question is that if I have both cars sitting in front of me and I pull the rubber bumpers off the 76 and try to swap them out for the 74 bumpers, can it be that easy or is there a lot of welding and making of parts brackets, etc.

I notice that Moss Motors has a kit out to do this but the bumpers alone are about two thousand dollars, if you include the grill. They did tell me that I can buy just the templates and brackets. And two. I want to lower the 76 at the same time to chrome bumpers specs. Can I swap out the 74 gt front and rear springs to lower the The tech book says that the gt springs are about one inch shorter than the rubber bumper car.

If you can give me a simple answer on the two questions, Why does the gt handle so much better than the 76 rubber bumper car?

Of course you are absolutely right. Its just that I had this wonderful condition with very little mileage drop into my hands from a neighbor who purchased it new. Then from there I bought up two GT's from someone in Charlottesville, and then you know how it goes from there.

Middle age crazy I guess. Will the front and rear sway bar and mounting hardware from the 74 GT work on the 76? Or should I simply bite the bullet and order it from Moss? The more I think about chrome bumper swap the less it sounds like I ought to be doing it.

I am going to change over the su's this weekend though and pick up an after market exhaust system. And then call it quits. But rubber bumper cars don't seem to bring a lot so I guess I'll be stuck with it.

You have to decide what you want. Do you want a rubber bumper MGB? Do you want a chrome bumper MGB? You already have the rubber bumper car; it's already paid for. You could clean up and sell the rubber bumper MGB and purchase a chrome bumper one. That's not a bad option. If you want your MGB to run fast, remove the Stromberg and fit the dual carbs from one of the older cars along with the matching distributor.

Trying to lower the 76 MGB is very difficult -- it requires a completely different front crossmember assembly. Fitting lowered springs changes the steering geometry and the MGB will not, cannot, handle properly. Hope this little bit steers you in the right direction, 2. The sway bar components from the earlier chrome models will fit the rubber model -- but there is only an anti-sway bar in the front.

Use the thick one from the GT! Good luck. I am also familiar with your company's well respected reputation. I'm seeking some advise. I have a MGB-GT that accumulates water in the passenger compartment when I either wash the car a little bit of puddling or if I get caught in the rain, which thankfully isn't too often, but can create allot of puddling depending on the severity and or length of the storm. Until recently I've turned a blind eye to it as when this does happen I can usually remove the rubber floor mat and mop up with a paper towel etc.

As a result the insulation acted like a sponge and, well you can guess the rest Capillary action at is best! I had to take the seat and all the carpeting etc out to dry this time.

As I write this I have a small fan in the car drying everything out as thoroughly as possible. Where is this water coming from?

I am aware of the problem with that drain tube from the cowl vent. I clean that 2 -3 times a year and I see no sign of the water entering from the vents. The water traditionally puddles along the side of the transmission tunnel down by the radio housing and directly across from that by the map pocket.

Any thoughts? It's pretty odd for a BGT to leak so badly. The technique is to lie in the car and have someone spray the garden hose on the car can you do that in California yet? The most common location would be around the rubber that holds the windscreen in place.

After that, I'd suspect the seal between the door and the door opening. Please let me know what you find! I wonder if you can help me with something. The weld is terrible with gaps etc. The MGB specialist who serviced the car for many years was unaware of this as the joint was convered with undercoating.

He indicated that he didn't think this was a structural problem given that it had been done a long time ago and nothing had shifted. I guess I am looking for a second opinion and was wondering if I should have a new piece properly welded in to replace the centre cut section. Your thoughts on this would be greatly appreciated!

Kind regards, Gord. I've seen this butchery before. The frame is exceptionally durable, and if the rest of the car is rust free, then I doubt that the lack of good welds here will cause any dramatic loss of torsional rigidity. If someone could do a good job for a couple hundred bucks, I'd go for it.

Hello John, first, thanks for your web site, I have referenced it often. Art Lewis. He told me that it matches the paint formula supplied by you. Could you share that formula with me? Thanks, Tom,.

Matching paint is always difficult, and some colors are more difficult than others. Most paint suppliers have a spectrometer that can read the paint color, then they mix a paint to match. I do believe they're located in Cleveland. I hope some of this helps! Could you tell me how many oval washer required per each bolt and the location of the washer? And what is the gap between the door and the wing? Thank you very much, Jorge.

Jorge, The washers fitted between the body and the rear of the fender there at the scuttle are fitted "as required. I would get all the bolts started, then work the fender, if possible, and by very little, to ensure that the gap from top to bottom is parallel.

Be certain to attach the bottom of the fender to the bottom of the sill. Draw all the bolts snug, fit as many washers as required, as necessary, so that when you snug the bolts at the scuttle neither the scuttle nor the fender are bent inwards.

Fill that gap with body putty to prevent leaking from the windscreen. I hope this helps a bit! Hello, John I have replaced the door skins on my '65 MGB, now the door handles won't fit into the holes. Can I cut the skins to make the original pull type handles work, or do I need to change to the push type door handles?

I have the original internal door latch hardware. Thanks, John. Cut the new doors. Measure twice, cut once! John, I have a mgb with 23, original miles. I need to replace the wiper blades. How do you remove the inserts or blades?

Also, I have a noise coming from the water pump or pulley, the pulley has a wee bit of play There is usually a tab which, when pressed away from the arm, allows the blade to slide off the end of the arm.

Yours may have 20 years of corrosion even if you cannot see it making it difficult to break the blades free from the blades.

The water pump always has a very slight amount of freeplay. BUT, it should not sound as if it has gravel in it! Loosen the fan belt and run the engine without that belt in place.

Does it make the same noise? If so, it's not the pump. If it doesn't then you know it's the water pump or the alternator. I've imported the car to Canada near Toronto. I've been thinking of getting the car rust proofed with an oil spray. I've been looking for advice on whether I should do this or not. The car will be garaged most of the time and only driven on warm sunny days in the spring, summer and fall.

I've done a lot of research on the web and every where I turn your name comes up. All cars have rust -- the questions are: 1 how much; and 2 how to keep it from spreading. I would, positively and absolutely rust proof your car with Waxoyl!

Remove those big foam pads from inside the ends of the rear fenders; remove the white interior panels to the rear of the rear windows; remove the interior panels from behind the doors; remove the splash panels under the front fenders behind the front wheel; remove the sill tread plate if you do not have these, purchase some. Before using the Waxoyl, use compressed air to blow out those areas you will be coating.

Blow all around the inside of the rear wheel arch -- both from the back and from the front. Blow out all the crud that's collected at the bottom of the front fender. If you want, drill some one inch access holes in the top of the sill that's why you purchased the sill tread pieces, to cover those holes and blow out the inside of the rockers. Get that Waxoyl warmed up in a bath of water on the grill or on the stove and then spray it inside the rear fenders from the back and from the front from behind the front doors ; spray it into the sills; spray it into the cavity under the front fender.

Now this Waxoyl will drip and stink for a while -- so maybe it's better to do this towards the end of the season. Leave paper on the floor to catch the drippings. Expect the car to drip when you have it parked on hot, black, tarmac next summer. The good news is that this waxy oil will inhibit the ability of the oxygen in the air to wreak havoc with the iron in the body. It will positively stop the advancement of rust and it will prohibit the formation of new rust.

It's the most wonderful stuff since sliced bread! How much to use? It's sold in a container that looks like the old Imperial gallon -- you'll go through one of these at least. Hey John! Hey you are familiar with the radiator nose badge for the MGA, and the "reproduction" by Moss. Have you, or anyone you know, any of the originals cast aluminum with some foundry's name embossed on the back in good shape you might want to part with?

Let me know please sir. Brian, I've taken the new Moss badges, heated them up carefully and applied much more solder to ensure that the stud doesn't break free. Will this solve your problem.

I just don't have any old ones. John, I want to wash the engine in my 76 MGB but don't know what to cover up to keep protected from getting water in it. Could you assist me. Thanks Chris. Ensure the engine is warm, leave it running, and put about 20 quarters into the quarter car wash machine.

Spray the engine down with soapy water, then switch over to the degreaser, if it's available, then switch back to the soapy water. You can get one inch away from everything to get it really clean. Sometimes you'll flake off loose paint. The only component to avoid is the alternator.

The distributor is going to get wet anyway. At some time, the engine will finally stumble and quit. Lay down the wand, turn the ignition OFF, and continue. To restart the engine, remove the cap and wires, dry off the plugs, dry off the coil tower, and dry off the cap and wires.

By the time you get home the engine will be running poorly again -- so remove the cap at home and allow it to ventilate. I spray off engines all the time. I love a clean engine bay! I also have two questions relating to the MG that I hope you can answer. First, what is the difference between side curtain frames for the two and three bow tops. My MG is a two bow top and I want to be sure I have the correct frames.

Second, I would like to fashion my own wind wings. Do you know where I might be able to locate the chrome hinges for such a project. Any help you can give me will be appreciated. Respectfully, Fred. Fred, I would like to explain the differences between the frames, but I can only tell you that if you have the wrong ones with the top that they don't fit. I know that isn't much help. Position the curtains so that the front of the rear frame is parallel with the rear of the front frame.

Place the fixing mounds in on the interior panels, assuring an overlap front to rear. Then fit the top, positioning the fixing point behind the door so that the top fits down tightly against the top of the side curtains. Can you help me? I am having an ongoing argument with a fellow British car enthusiast about fender mirrors. My friend says mirrors were a dealer option and there was no law governing the placement of mirror locations.

I'm also doubting my memory, because I can no longer find that reference. If you know that I am right, could you somehow quote me that law or explain it to me? Thanks for your help. Craig, If there were rules in place for GTs in England, they would not have been applied here. I am just sure that the cars were shipped here without mirrors and that they were dealer installed -- with instructions -- but dealer installed. That means that some have minor variations as to the placement. Those wing mirrors look cool but aren't worth a damn for seeing what's behind you.

I've always preferred a much larger mirror, or one mounted on the door.

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