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jointer-plane-diagram-login Some chipping is likely to occur during the early reverse cuts but that will be removed in the final cuts with the ;lane. Then you jointer plane diagram login the board to a thickness planer to […]. All written, photographic and drawn materials jointer plane diagram login property logi and copyright by NewWoodworker. Two hands are used with the tool, so the natural thought is that you can simply move the tool back and forth or side to side. Hi James. Shortening longer boards closer to the length actually needed for the project will minimize this tapering also.

A jointer planer can also be used to narrow down boards to fit into a certain area or space. When you are making window jambs or doors, this tool can be used to ensure that the wooden pieces create a degree angle. Wear safety gear such as goggles and gloves when working with machines that pose danger. Before using the jointer planer, make sure that the cutting guard on the machine is in position.

Do this safety precaution every time you make use of the machine. Check the sharpness of the knives as well. They should be adjusted properly in order to avoid excessive or uneven cutting. Use a square to make sure that the fence is at a degree angle with the table.

Always check the angle to ensure that the planer cuts at the correct angle. The in-feed table can be set to different cutting depths as needed. Start the jointer planer and allow it to power up a bit. It should take some time before the blades attain their normal speed. Give it time to attain its maximum speed before feeding it with lumber. Stay to the right of the cutter head knives when you plane the wood. Place the wood on the machine and hold it firmly against the fence.

It is safe to use a push block to keep your hands at a safe distance from the sharp blades. Use the left hand to hold the wood firmly against the fence, while the right hand pushes the wood as the blades cut through the grains. After the jointer planer finishes cutting through the whole length of the wood, repeat the process several times. The machine only cuts a small amount of the wood so do it several times until the desired result is achieved.

Cut as many wooden boards or blocks as you wish. Just remember that when the task is finished, you need to turn the machine off. Taking a lot of passes will almost certainly induce some amount of tapering so keeping the passes and depth of cut to a minimum is always best.

Tapering across the width of a board is frequently caused by uneven pressure applied by the operator. A defect such as uneven cupping across the board can also encourage this kind of tapering.

In rare cases one or both tables can be out of alignment with the cutterhead. If the jointer has not been taken apart, finding this condition is exceptionally rare but check it anyway just to eliminate that possibility. See my Jointer Basics story at the link in the Resource section at the end of this story for more on checking for this condition.

The fix for tapering across the width is to be sure that you are applying even pressure across the board. Using the push pads that come with most jointers helps that and is smart anyway as does applying pressure along the centerline of the board. As always, keeping the pressure to the minimum needed to maintain control of the board is important. For boards with a serious cup across their width reversing the board end for end between the initial cuts will help minimize tapering. As soon as both sides of the board develop a flat area an inch or so wide, make all subsequent passes with the grain until the surface is flat, then go to the planer to treat the opposing face.

Woodworkers tend to set their fence over one portion of the jointer knives and leave it there. That focuses wear on the knives in one spot or to one side of their length. Having one side sharp and the other side dull can induce tapering across the width of a board.

The sharp side removes more wood while the dull side can actually be a few thousandths shorter because of the focused wear. The only cure for this is to sharpen the knives or replace them. Then, remember to move your fence to different spots along the knives frequently to distribute the wear more evenly. When a jointer produces a concave shape in the surface being jointed make sure that you are not pushing down too hard and flattening the wood out during the cut.

When the pressure is released the wood comes back up. Repeat this error and the concave shape can get worse. If you are sure technique is not an issue look for the outboard end outfeed table to be tilted down slightly. This is a relatively rare occurrence but we do see this problem more often AFTER someone has tried to adjust out a problem that was more likely caused by an error in technique. With an outfeed table that really is tilted away from the infeed table, the wood wants to arc downward during the cut, dragging the trailing portion of the board across the cutters as it tips forward.

The result will be a concave shape. Though less likely, the same thing can occur with a long board that already has a concave shape in the surface being jointed. If the board is too long, the ends are never on the tables at the same time and the concave shape can remain or even be made worse. If possible, cut the board to a length closer to what is actually needed for the project. You can also reverse shorter boards to help take equal amounts from both ends until it is flatter on the jointer beds.

Then take all remaining cuts with the grain. Most better quality jointers have the surface of the tables ground true AFTER they are assembled at the factory. Unless something bad happened to the jointer, it is rare to find the tables out of alignment. When the tables are level to each other, they are said to be coplanar.

Lay a long quality straight edge across the tables and its bottom edge should be flat on both tables over its full length. Fixing a non coplanar condition usually means adding shims below the low end of the offending table. Do not confuse the gib screws on most jointers that control the fit of the table to the sliding ways on the center housing.

I continually see people recommending adjusting the gib screws to fix an out of line table. In nearly all cases, shims must be placed between the table and the center housing at the correct spot along the rails to fix the condition. On most parallelogram jointers there are adjustments at all four corners that can be used to correct a coplanar error. Check your instruction manual or contact the manufacturer for details on making this adjustment on your specific jointer.

Creating a convex shape, the center of the curve down on the edge being jointed can be caused by technique or one of the tables tilting up at the outboard end. While this seems to occur more on the outfeed table, don't overlook the infeed table. If the board already has a bow shape and you put the top of that arc down on the jointer tables, it is easy to simply follow that curve, especially if you focus pressure too long on the infeed table. The other end of the board is already up a little and the jointer will remove wood from the portion coming off of the infeed table and it could actually make the convex shape worse or create a taper.

Putting the board with the arc up will help, as will reversing the board after each of the initial cuts to help even out the ends. Then you can make the remaining cuts with the grain. Also, cutting the board shorter if the project allows will reduce the amount of the bow and make it easier to correct the original defect. If either of the tables is angled upwards running away from center the only solution is to adjust the table so that they are coplanar or level with each other over their full length.

As described in the Concave section above, most jointers require shimming of the offending table to make the correction. With the outboard end of the table being up, the shims will most likely have to go under the inboard end of the table between it and the slides.

Use a long straightedge to be sure that your correction actually made the tables coplanar. A woodworking vise is the preferred option to clamping the piece from the sides so that the entire top surface is free to plane. An important part of using a jointer plane is the motion used to run the tool over the wood board you are flattening.

Two hands are used with the tool, so the natural thought is that you can simply move the tool back and forth or side to side. This could work, but will not be very efficient. Be sure to note the direction of the grain, and plan to plane as much as possible along that same line. Grip the back handle with your rear hand, making sure that your index finger does not try to find a place to rest on the iron or chip breaker.

Pressing against these can knock the lateral adjustment out of whack. Make sure your forearm is in a straight line behind the jointer plane following the direction of the sole. With the front hand, hold onto the tote, or front handle, with a comfortable strong grip. Lean forward, putting the strength and stability of your body behind it.

Push from the back hand while pressing down with the front hand, keeping the sole as flat on the surface as possible. Forward strokes should be straight, while bringing the jointing plane back to its original position is often easier to do in a half-arc. On a wide, long surface, you can perform this action in a rapid, but smooth, motion.

For narrow edges and ends of planks, use a slow, steady motion. Since there is very little material surface to keep the sole flat, it is easy to tilt to the sides if moving too quickly. Check your shavings as they come out of the jointer plane — they should be even from side to side.

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