%!$ Easy Diy Woodworking Bench Plans For You #!@

jointer-plane-bevel-up-or-down-70 Even the best Bailey planes with a Bed Rock mechanism require some fussing and back and forth to get a tight throat opening. You can make your own shooting board. So my recommendation is jointer plane bevel up or down 70 skip the scrub and go for a wooden jack plane if you intend to hand plane your rough sawn boards. Once you have one face flattened, plane the edges flat and perpendicular to the first face. However, due to their jack of all trades nature there are some shortcomings.

Bevel down planes work in a lot of situations; however, they do not have the jack of all trades quality that bevel up planes have. They will come up short when working on smaller surfaces, as the plane is slightly harder to control. This is due to the higher center of gravity. In addition, they lack the adaptability of other planes and will struggle with certain woods.

Like I mentioned before the chip breaker can go either way. It is a constant source of controversy and can be listed in every argument. Finally, while it is easy to make depth adjustments, adjusting the throat is a process that takes a while. Some users just keep a supply of planes with different throat openings in order to alleviate the time it takes to adjust them. In comparison, bevel up planes can be adjusted rather quickly.

There are also different size planes meant to do different jobs in addition to the bevel up and bevel down variations. The three main types of planes commonly used today are the jack, jointer, and smoothing plane.

The different bevel types have positive and negative effects on each process. First, fore planes are used to take off larger amounts of wood and begin the flattening process. This is one step in which the bevel down planes high center of gravity is an advantage. This is because the height exaggerates any discrepancies in the wood.

Next, jointer planes are used to continue smoothing the surface of the wood. This is the middle ground and most commonly found plane. It is also a great place to use a bevel up plane especially if it is your only plane. You can get away with using different irons to get different results.

In contrast, the bevel down plane is more job specific at this point. Finally, smoothing planes finish the surface of the wood. Like I mentioned earlier bevel down planes get a superior finish in most smoothing situations. However, if you are working with exotic woods or are just looking to try something different a bevel up smoothing plane can create some incredible results. While both styles of plane have their pros and cons they both benefit from proper maintenance and tuning.

Planes require very little maintenance aside from the occasional tuning; however, cleaning them can make a surprisingly large difference if you have put off the task. Cleaning a plane is a simple task. First, simply disassemble the plane, make sure to remove every screw and knob. Then with wire brushes clean all of the threads, both inside and outside.

Last, assemble the plane using light machine oil on all of the threads and adjusters. This will result in a plane with exceptionally smooth actions for months to come. There are two main parts to tuning a plane. The first of which is the sole of the plane. If the sole is uneven than the tool will not work as well. To test the sole slide it across medium grit sandpaper. Any spots with excessive scuffing indicates a high spot. If there are high spots than some tuning is required.

To do this lay sandpaper on a flat surface and wet sand the sole working down from medium to fine grit sandpaper. When you have completed this the sole should have a polished and smooth surface. In contrast, the throat on a bevel-up plane is a cakewalk to adjust. You loosen a knob and slide a shoe plate as close or as far away from the cutting edge as you like. Nothing could be simpler or more intuitive.

This is another big advantage for bevel-up planes if you make any throat adjustments in your work , and many people with just a plane or two do this. Other Differences. The bevel-up planes have more of their mass low on the tool. The Bailey-style planes can be a bit top-heavy. The funny thing is, I like top-heavy. I believe it. I chalk this up to what you are used to. I have become more comfortable with the balance of the bevel-up planes over the years, but I still favor the top-heavy feel of the Bailey.

Also, the bevel-up configuration allows you to change the angle of attack of your tool by honing a different angle on your cutting edge. With the bevel-down planes, this is harder to control and involves back bevels or shims or other work-arounds.

Bottom Line. Get a bevel-down plane if you have a fair-sized arsenal of planes and like tools that are dedicated to one function alone. Here are some supplies and tools we find essential in our everyday work around the shop. We may receive a commission from sales referred by our links; however, we have carefully selected these products for their usefulness and quality.

Thank you for your article. As a beginner, I have found it very useful. At what point the Scrub and Fore planes diverged across the English channel I still have not figured out. I believe they performed the same job in their respective shops but what cultural difference provoked the size and increased blade camber of the Scrub I still have not been able to glean. I had this conversation with the Schwarz last year and neither one of us has yet to really find an answer so I will keep digging.

However by today's standards, the Scrub is shorter and has a more radical curve to the blade. Personally I like using my Scrub for planing a board to width, or working down the end grain of an out of square board.

It works great for traditional thicknessing of a board, but if the board is longer than about 18", I like to switch to my Fore plane to take advantage of more mass, and a longer sole. My Fore has lesser camber to the iron with about a 9" radius, whereas my Scrub has a 3" radius. Both do a great job at quickly removing stock, but when you have a plane problem like me you will find subtle differences and reasons to use one over the other.

Thank you Shannon! That was fantastic. The main, and most important difference is length. The scrub plane is typically about 9" long. In the English tradition of woodworking, there was no such thing as a scrub plane. None of the English language books on woodworking before the late 19th century make any such mention of such a plane.

It simply didn't exist in the Anglo-American tradition. There is some speculation that the modern scrub plane is a contemporary adaptation of an early German design, but there's little documented to confirm this. Stanley said the scrub was used to plane down board edges when there was too little material to rip it narrower with a saw.

Back to the differences between the two. The length. This is really important. When dressing lumber completely by hand, length in a plane's sole is very helpful.

In fact, next to the ability to take a thick shaving, length is probably the most important attribute for dressing rough lumber and making it flat. The short sole of the scrub can't do this. It's simply too short, so it rides the hills and valleys, effectively making things worse, unless you are checking every two seconds with a straight edge and selectively planing the high spots this takes WAY too long.

The fore plane can be set up to remove wood just as fast as a scrub plane simply by grinding more camber and deepening the cut. But unlike the scrub plane, the longer sole helps keep the board relatively flat while doing so. I have used a scrub for the same task, way back when I first began my hand tool journey. It was frustrating, and made the job of planing rough stock take much longer than it had to. As I learned more about traditional woodworking and read many of the old 17th, 18th and early 19th century texts on the trade, I realized that they never used such a plane.

So I tried it their way i. I found things went much easier and faster, and sold the scrub plane. I've never missed it. Now, I plane all my rough lumber by hand. I use a 17" wooden fore plane for my first plane. I've found no plane better for the task. Short metal jack planes 5 sized, 14" work ok, but I like the longer length of the wooden jack planes typically " better. Longer metal fore planes 6 sized, 18" are a great length, but are way to wide and heavy for rapidly removing stock.

Trying to use a 6 as a thick shaving fore plane will make you tired really fast. It allows you to really hog material quickly, begin to bring the board to flat, and not work like a dog doing it.

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