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dust-system-for-woodshop-editor Its fun. Choosing Hardware. Dust system for woodshop editor With Woodcraft. Paul ssytem Yes, my flex is a very tight fit into the coupling. Performance ranged from good to so-so, depending on how much sawdust was being spit out by my tools. Next, decide on what kind of hookups you are going to use: flexible hose, PVC pipe or metal duct. Thanks for this.

Be careful out there. Re: Grounding- I have worked in an industrial woodworking environment for 35 years. There is almost zero danger of an electric shock to a human, but very big hazard of having a dust explosion! That tiny static shock you might feel is plenty to cause a cloud of dust to blow up. Moving air causes enormous amounts of static electricity.

Typical metal ductwork can dissipate this fairly easily, as it is often attached to metal building structure parts. PVC can not ground by itself, and the fact that it is a good insulator increases the static buildup much higher than metal.

If you already have PVC, at least run a bare copper wire along the outside of the duct to ground. It would be better if it was on the inside, but this is not always practical. In many areas it is strictly against code to use PVC for this purpose.

Good luck, and work safe. Here is an example if instruction from Shop Fox, a popular portable dust collector manufacturer. System Grounding. Ensure that each machine is continuously grounded to the dust collector frame with a ground screw, as shown in Figure While I agree with most of your article, I strongly caution any use of PVC pipe in a wood dust collection system. Just because you may not have had any issues in the past does not mean that you are capturing the dust safely.

My suggestion is to use only metal duct, make sure the dust collector will provide 4, Fpm feet per minute velocity in the duct and only capture wood dust with your dust collector. These simple steps will drastically reduce your dust explosion risks.

Love the system but for one thing: Insurance companies Pretty sure every single one of them will not cover a house fire if there is a non metallic DC system and they can claim that the fire started there. They allow no substitutions like ground wires straps etc. They only cover metal ducts that are grounded. What are the odds that a DC will cause a fire? Maybe remote. PVC duct systems are common in hobbyist woodworking shops but users are encouraged to perform their own due diligence to verify their insurance coverage.

Love your DC. Love your approach. I learned that no insurance company will cover a fire that they can claim arose from a dust collection system not made from grounded metal piping.

Put aside the whole fire risk or not question and ask the other question of insurance coverage. The problem is that insurance companies have an unshakable conviction that non metal ducting is an unreasonable fire hazard.

You answered several questions I had about setting up a dust collection system in my shop. Tahnks for writing the article, it was very good for me. I dont know if you can answer my question. I want to make piping for my cfm dust collector. At the output of the collector, there will be 2 lanes.

The left lane will be on 4 inch pvc duct for about 14 feet with about four 45 degrees elbows. The right lane will be on 6 inch pvc for about 30 feet with a 5 feet of vertical duct on the 30 feet with about four 45 degrees elbows.

At the end of the 30 feet, it will have about 16 feet of 4 inch pvc to reach the tools. Only one tool at the time will work on this collector. Can you tell me what dust collector this is? Would such a small system work, in your opinion? Hi Jim. It would collect some of the heavier debris but would not do much to collect the fine dust that causes health problems.

I would recommend at a minimum a 1. I incorated 12 v switch system to start the system automatically. Use metal pipe with whatever fittings you choose to afford and make sure to ground it in at least one place. Blast gates are setup at each tool, and you only have it open when you are using that tool; all other gates remained closed. That provides the full concentration of suction right at the tool you are using, to get you maximum dust collection from that tool.

If you left all of the gates open you would have very poor air flow at each tool. Hi Rick. Hi Timothy. Wish I had read a a long time ago. I have learned all this and more by going it alone with my first system. On my third now and it works great. Not quite done yet but what a difference hen you get big pipes and a powerful blower. John the Handyman in Las Vegas. I have an 8 foot stroke sander as well as a small belt sander and blow up sander, would I need to run separate runs to each of these.

They are side by side in my shop. The stroke sander is the worst tool for dust and not sure what is the best way to set up the collection piping on it.

I am in the country with a bush beside my shop so I plan on piping directly to the out side with the out let. Hi Ron. Thanks for reaching out with your questions.

I would recommend a separate drop for each tool. In other words, you are better off if you have a single blast gate designated for each tool, and therefore each tool gets the full air flow from the dust collector. For the stroke sander you will probably want to build a shroud of some sort, and position it directly behind where the dust flies off on the left end as you face the machine.

I would build a shroud, or buy one, and experiment with positioning it. Great article. After much research about metal vs. Although my shop is in the painting stage, I can assure you I will be implementing the ideas in this article.

I have a Clearview cyclone can I run the dust container off the bottom at a 45 degree to a barrel outside the wall. I would think so, but I would suggest contacting the folks at Clear Vue with this question to be sure.

Thank you for all the great information. I got a great deal of information. Thank you. I combined a cyclone with a bag style dust collector and placed both in the room next to my shop to keep the noise level down.

I placed a blast gate at each machine along with a pushbutton start stop station. Velocity is high enough to move dust as well as planer chips and lathe shavings. To prevent static charge and shocks I Dust System For Woodshop 90 lined the PVC and fittings with a strip of aluminum foil duct tape with the ends wrapped around the pipe ends and fitting ends so that continuity is maintained from the machine all the way to the dust collector which is electrically grounded.

And if you were using a four inch Dust System For Woodshop Online line a low cost take off is the plastic end caps found in rolls of carpet at your builders supply.

Paul, thank you for some very helpful advice. I searched the internet and read books to do the best I could and I see I managed to get some things right. After years of searching the plumbing depts for fittings to connect different tools I now look at how a tool will connect BEFORE I buy it and sometimes buy the brand that put more forethought into connecting to my dust collection system. I disagree with your suggestion of using screws whenever possible to secure joints.

The sharp point and threads of the screw inside the ductwork will tend to catch and hold onto small pieces of wood chips that can build up over time. If using PVC, why not cement them together? If using metal, as I did, try using pop rivets instead of screws. Then make sure to seal the joint with aluminum tape.

When comparing types of material for my dust collection pipes, my local plumbing store recommended dryer vent pipe. This seem to make excellent sense when they explained PVC is meant to move water a heavier substance and dryer vent pipe is specifically designed to move air a lighter substance. What are your feeling? I would think that the speed that the air flows through the pipe and dragging the dust with it would be a better standard.

True, a large pipe has less resistance, but a smaller pipe allows for faster air travel through the pipe. If it drags the air from the tool at the far end of the system it should be adequate to move the dust through the rest of the pipe.

You must have a very large air movement system. Also do not discount air restrictions after the power. A simple system like a shop vac has a bag to collect the dust and provides a large restrictive force. I live in the country and can exhaust my dust directly outside without the catch bag restriction. I have a big harbor frieght dust collector for the big machines. For the smaller machines I use a big shop vac! I dont need to do all that piping and nothing is in the way!

I just bought a dust collector with 4 in. I enjoyed the topic of dust collection system, I like to know more to see if I can design my own systems. I know how much dust woodworking produces, even with hand tools, and I love to read and hear other ideas on dust collection systems. A remote control really helps. An old shop vacuum barrel collects the dust and chips under the dust deputy.

I have emptied the barrel a couple of times and only have a trace amount of dust in the DC bag. They sell plastic hangers for the ABS pipe that is convenient to hang my pipe, instead of attaching the plumber straps. Your advice on tees and y pieces is wrong, the ones you say to pick are more turbulent and add more static to the system over the ones say to not pick. Using the ones you say NOT to use will allow the air system to operate more efficientl.

I think you should either get a bigger dust collector, or figure out a way to have shorter duct runs. Reducing the ducts at the drop will give you faster velocity at the tool, but it will slow down the overall velocity in the main trunk where you are already struggling. Helping my son set up a wood shop in a makerspace. He has a Delta cfm, 2hp, 8 in-H2O static pressure drop.

Problem is, the wiring is all done for the DC in a certain place in the shop. Any thoughts? Hi Ted. I would relocate to shorten the lengths if possible. I know this from experience. Thanks Paul-Woodworkers Guild of America. Amazon Best Sellers Our most popular products based on sales. Updated hourly. Best Sellers in Shop Dust Collectors. WEN 5. MSRP Click for details. Dust Right 4 in Tool Ports. Big Horn Cyclone Dust Collector. Silverline Drill Dust Collector, mm. Milwaukee Dust Surfacing. Gift Ideas in Shop Dust Collectors.

Back to top. The skirt and a standard gal. I just wish the skirt were made of felt rather than the more porous woven fabric. This setup will reduce the air volume. When an ad says a collector is rated at 1, cfm, what does it mean? Not much, really. Cfm stands for cubic feet per minute, a measure of the volume of air moving past a point of reference. The cfm figure needs to be put in the context of the amount of resistance, or friction, present called static pressure, or SP.

Air moving through duct or hose encounters resistance, just as a person would slipping down a water slide. The more bends and bumps, the slower the ride or the lower the air velocity and volume.

Many manufacturers rate their machines without bags or duct attached. While trying out a number of dust collectors, I measured their performances under real working conditions, using flexible hose, PVC pipe or metal duct in my sq. I also measured collectors hooked up to a straight piece of 6-in.

Collectors ranging in size from 1 hp to 2 hp have impellers fans sized from 10 in. All things being equal motor speed and impeller design , a bigger impeller coupled with a bigger motor will move more air than a smaller pairing. There are some differences among collectors; to learn more, ask a manufacturer for an impeller performance chart. As soon as any collector is hooked up in the shop, performance declines in relation to the length and type of hookup.

Materials that affect airflow. The metal elbow top , which is designed for central dust-collection systems, has a gentle sweep, which lowers resistance to airflow. Plastic PVC pipe has a tighter-radius bend and restricts airflow more.

Ribbed flexible pipe also disturbs airflow, up to three times as much as metal. Hooked up to two 6-ft. With a larger upper bag, I found that the cfm readings were not compromised. But if you happen to vacuum up any offcuts, they will make quite a racket rattling around in a metal trash can.

Although many woodworkers, myself included, have used PVC drainpipe for duct without mishap, experts warn against using the material. The connectors elbows and wyes restrict airflow, and the material builds up a static charge, which may cause a spark and set off an explosion. Running grounded copper wire inside the pipe reduces the hazard. Use PVC at your own risk. Metal duct and fittings are obviously better and will also last longer. Your collector will work more efficiently, and so will you.

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