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drying-wood-for-turning-bowls-youtube Hope this helps and thanks for your comment. Thank you Pudtiny, Yeah, The Pith, The pith is the very center of your log and holds lots and lots of moisture. I have a pinless moisture meter but I'm not sure how accurate it is without having any flat surfaces to set it drying wood for turning bowls youtube. When I first started turning bowls, it seemed pretty straightforward, you take a bowl blank and turn a bowl. May be 5 years since you posted this but how'd you get on?

Sealing with shellac prevented the end grain from sucking up the oil finish. After letting the oil dry for several days I then used my Beal Buffing System. You coat the buff or wheel with tripoli.

Even buffing with tripoli begins to bring out some of the luster. Next you change buffs and use the white diamond abrasive. It is much harder and finer than the tripoli. It removes any of the tripoli that may have adhered and shines the wood a bit more. Finally you change buffs to the one for use with carnauba wax. The bar of wax that is provided is hard as a rock and if it were to slip and fall it might shatter. When you shove it against the rotating buff only a very small amount of wax comes off as compared to the relatively soft tripoli.

Yet it does not take much of the wax. You may have had the experience of handing someone a well waxed and shiny bowl only to get it back after being lovingly handled looking dull and dingy. This is the warmth of the hand melting the softer waxes. That is the good part. The bad part is that it is very hard to buff by hand. In my youth there was a car polish called Simonize. It contained carnauba wax.

I made the mistake of applying it generously to our black Ford. Even my young muscles could not rub it out. However it was a very durable wax job, and I can remember how the water would bead up on the Drying Wood For Turning Bowls 60 surface for months when it was used. Most people took their cars to the garage to have a mechanic use a power buffer to buff out the wax.

So, if you want to enjoy the high gloss and protective qualities of a carnauba wax job you have got to resort to power buffing.

Now I make a lot of clasps for knitted shawls and scarves as shown below. When I tried my new system of using sanding sealer and buffing using the Beal Buffing System I was amazed at the difference in the appearance.

The surface just seemed more alive. It was almost jewel-like. Notice how much less lively the surfaces of the pins are in the picture below. These pins had not had sanding sealer but had been oiled and waxed carefully.

There is just no comparison in the finish even though the woods are just as attractive in the grain and color patterns. They just look dull to my eye were before they had looked pretty good to me. I have read that surveys have been done and it was found that women are more attracted to shiny objects.

If two similar objects were presented and one was much more shiny, then women seemed to prefer the shiny one. Since most of my market is to women I am going to have to test this hypothesis by seeing if the shiny clasps sell better. Stay posted. I know I do and I am sold out on the better finishes I have been getting after using the steps I described above.

I plan to polish the finish next by hand. I noticed that you never mentioned ultra fine sanding before you polish with the buffer. Do you wet sand? If you use the 3 bar polishing system like beale sells thats all you need. I make custom pistol grips and sand to grit then buff. Works perfect. Thanks for your comments. I really agree with you. I am completely sold out to the Beale buffing system and use it on all my products now.

It is too shiny for me. Next post: Short on Time? Previous post: Turned Wooden Bowl Design. Do you live near Vermont? Visit Edwards at one of the upcoming craft shows that he attends. WP Admin. My Old System of Finishing To back up a bit, I have experimented with a number of wood finishing techniques and have finally settled on what works for me.

Judge the Difference For Yourself So, if you want to enjoy the high gloss and protective qualities of a carnauba wax job you have got to resort to power buffing. Paul E. Goebel January 24, , pm. Reply Link. This is as simple as screwing it to the blank. Then mount it to your lathe.

This is the fun part, and makes the shop very very messy. It's also a time consuming part but that's ok crank up the tunes and find our groove! Start by roughing the outside of the bowl. Make it as round as possible. At first you need to start your lathe speed out very very slow Otherwise the stuff on your bench will dance all over the place.

The vibrations can be violent! After you get the outside basically round , work your way to the bottom bark side of the bowl. That usually makes for a good solid tight grip on the bowl. Remove the blank and faceplate from the lathe and unscrew the faceplate. Then mount your chuck to the prepared recess nice and tight. Just clean it up real quick with a few light touches with your gouge. And proceed to set up your toolrest to the top of the bowl.

So bag it up in a brown paper bag with its own shavings tightly packed all around it. After a month open the bag and let it breath for a weak and then close it back up for another month. Stay tuned for part II thanks for looking. Reply 4 years ago. May be 5 years since you posted this but how'd you get on? I'm a woman and I've just started a furniture design course at the age of I'm loving working on the lathe and so proud of my first bowl made from mahogany and finished with bees-wax.

Reply 8 years ago Drying Wood For Turning Bowls Key on Introduction. Who cares if your a woman? None of us hopefully are sexist. As long as you have the tools, fire away! I agree with SlicksQueegie it is extremely addictive but it can be done to a certain extent on a budget at first.

I would recommend that look for a night class in wood turning or someone who has a wood lathe to try it out first, you do have to have a certain feel for the wood and not everyone does. This also means thee are unused wood lathes in garages everywhere so check Craigs list, gumtree, eBay etc.

If you do show a talent for wood turning then it is worth spending the money on a chucking system like the G3 as a good chuck is both safe and expands your capability. I hope you do give this a go as it is a fantastic hobby. There are a lot of women turners out there But I will say it is a pretty expensive hobby.

And extremely addicting Yeah I agree, the hardest part is to come. Its very hard to open the bag up and find that the wood has cracked or warped real bad. I have had a few real nice pieces crack because i left a knot to near the edge or the wall were just a shade to thick at the bottom etc.

But that also makes it fun to see if you can coax something beautiful out of a stinky old log. I have had poor success with wind fall logs as I am beginning to think they probably developed many stress fractures in the limbs that got broken in the storms that felled them. I hve had much better success with log that where felled by a chainsaw I must try that paper bag full of shavings trick, i use a cabinet in an earth floored shed to season my green wood pieces.

I turned fresh sawn pine last year and it was so wet I had a pine fresh beard for about a week from all the resin I got splashed with. Good luck and keep on spinning. Reply 7 years ago on Introduction. The chuck key on the G3 can be a pain where as the super nova has a hex key that is easier to use. Any Nova jaws are compatible with either chucks as well.

I like the G3 chuck, you just have to keep it clean of fine dust that can build up in the teeth and index hole for the key. I've had way to many hex keys wring or ruin the head of the hex head screws and if that happen on the chuck its ruined, the G3 may be old school but its a good design and once indexed correctly in the hole you can apply way more force than i would dare risk on a hex key. The are a few knock off jaws that also fit nova chucks. I'm pretty happy with my G3. I have the delta midi lathe, so the supernova 2 is a bit overkill for me.

All part of the fun of turning, the wood tells you what its going to alow you yo make nit what you wanted to a make. Did it split at the knot that was on the rim of your bowl blank? I have found that for green wood bowls you have to cut back to good solid wood as they will be most stressed parts as it seasons.

All the cheery blanks I turned ended up splitting, i think it could be due to the wood being wind fall and not sawn down, When you think about the force that is required to rip a 10" branch from a tree you would probably expect there to be allot of internal stress fractures in the fallen limb.

In all honesty, I have yet to open a bag to a cracked piece I have found them to be "out of round" quite a bit, but that is not a problem that's why we turn them "over-sized" They can be finish cut then sanded and finished This is the only way i have cut and finished "wet" logs by stuffing them in bags to dry I will check this bowl tomorrow to see how it has progressed Possibly, getting your blanks round is hard on your arms in my experience.

One minor addition is that its important you base thickness is the same as your wall thickness also you might want to mention about the possible problems of including the pith.

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