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carving-kitchen-meaning-loop Carving is the act of using tools to shape something from a material by scraping away portions of that material. The technique can be applied to any material that is solid enough to hold a form even when pieces have been removed from it, and yet soft enough for portions to be scraped away with available tools. Carving, as a means for making stone or wooden sculpture, is distinct from methods using soft and malleable materials like clay, fruit, and melted glass, which may be shaped into the desired. Skip to navigation Skip to content. carving kitchen. tools to make cooking fun. Карвинг - это необычное искусство вырезания декораций из овощей и фруктов, которое является привлекательным способом сервировки ресторанного стола и к тому же требует терпения, мастерства и навыка. В переводе Карвинг – англ. curving (от curve, что означает резать) – «резная работа», «резной орнамент». Карвингом называют художественную резьбу по дереву, льду, камням, овощам, а также стиль катания на горных лыжах и сноуборде и даже способ долговременной химической укладки волос. See Our Best Offer Carving kitchen meaning loop This construction allows the knife to more easily slice thin-boned and boneless meats, fish, and vegetables. You must also be able to hold the handle for kichen periods without experiencing discomfort. I want to emphasise that the technique demonstrated is entirely independent of the subject. The utility knife has declined in popularity, and is at times derided as filler for knife sets.

The sides can also meet at a degree or degree angle. Bent and spoon gouges are specialty tools that make it easier to reach certain areas of the wood carving. They aren't always necessary, but they'll be good to have if you get serious about the hobby. Use chisels. Chisels are sharp, flat tools used in conjunction with rubber mallets. Good chisels are especially important for wood chipping practices.

Basic carpenter's chisels have flat edges that dig into the wood at a sharp angle. Skewed chisels also have flat edges, but they tilt back at a degree angle, which allows you to make cuts that are slightly less blunt. Traditional mallets are technically made of heavy wood, but rubber mallets are less noisy and generally cause less damage to the handle of the chisel upon repeated impact. Part 2 of Practice with scrap wood.

It's always a good idea to practice some basic cuts on scrap wood before working on any major piece. Doing so will give you the opportunity to become familiar with the tools. Always use sharp tools, even if you're only practicing. If the tools are sharp enough, they should make a clean, shiny cut through the wood without leaving any nicks or streaks behind.

Hold the knife correctly. When you need to push a knife, gouge, or chisel through the wood, keep your hands behind the sharp cutting edge. These tools can slip as you work, and if your fingers are in front of the blade, it'll result in an injury. When working with knives, grasp the wood with your non-dominant hand. Keep the hand behind the blade of the tool, but carefully press the thumb of that hand against the blunt side of the tool to help control it.

While holding your non-dominant hand steady, rotate your dominant hand and wrist to make the desired cut. When working with gouges, hold the handle in the palm of your dominant hand while steadying the shaft by pinching it between the thumb and index finger of your dominant hand.

The cutting edge should rest against the wood. Remember to control the direction of the carving tool with your wrist and not your elbow.

This is true regardless of the cut or tool used. Carve along the grain. Always make your cuts along the grain instead of working against it. Cutting up against the grain will cause the wood to splinter. Examine the wood and find the long, parallel lines running through it.

These lines may or may not run parallel to the sides of the board, and they will be somewhat wavy instead of rigidly straight.

Always carve in a downward direction onto those lines of grain. You can also carve diagonally across the grain or parallel to it, but do not carve up against the grain. If the wood begins to tear as you carve it even though the tool is sharp, you might be carving in the wrong direction.

Switch to the opposite direction and check the results again. Practice a few basic cuts. There are numerous cuts you'll need to learn as you practice this craft, but when you're first starting out, you should at least practice a few of the basics.

Hold the blade of a U-gouge or V-gouge to the surface of the wood and push it across the grain, keeping the pressure as even as possible. A stabbing cut creates sharp carvings in the surface of the wood, allowing you to create hard shadows. Push the cutting edge of a gouge straight into the wood, then pull it out without pushing it any further.

Sweep cuts are long arc-shaped cuts. Use a gouge to push across the grain, rotating the handle as you push it forward to create an arc. Part 3 of Wear safety supplies. Carving can be dangerous if you aren't careful, so you should consider wearing some basic safety supplies to protect yourself.

Wear a carving glove on your non-dominant hand, or the hand you hold the wood with. Cover your eyes with safety glasses, too. Wood chips will start flying, and even if the piece is small, stray scraps can still find their way into your eyes if you don't protect yourself. Sketch the design. When possible, use a pencil to lightly sketch the intended cuts and gouges before picking up any of your tools.

These lines can create guides, which will make it easier to remain precise. You may make mistakes if a tool slips, but you won't make mistakes based on miscalculation. If you do make mistakes, there's no going back. You'll need to alter your original plan to incorporate the mistake or start over with new wood.

Secure the wood. Ideally, you should hold the wood piece in place by clamping onto the table or inside a vise. Doing so will free both hands, making it easier to work.

Never keep the wood in your lap as you carve it. For small carvings, like whittled pieces, you can hold the wood in your non-dominant hand as you work. Keep your non-dominant hand behind the cutting edge of the tool. Cut the basic shape. Remove as much wood as possible until you can visualize the basic shape of the final piece within the block of wood.

For small pieces, you can cut the basic shape using knives or chisels. For larger pieces, you may need to use a band saw or chain saw. Don't be afraid of cutting away too much.

As long as you do not cut past your sketched guidelines, you won't ruin the wood. You can go slow if doing so makes you feel more comfortable, but it can take a long time to obtain even a basic shape if you're too shy with your tools.

Rough out the form. After obtaining the basic shape, use large u-gouges to remove as much excess material as possible until the overall form of the piece develops. Identify the largest planes and work on those forms first. As the larger shapes come into focus, gradually ease your way to the smaller, more well-defined forms.

Add fine details. Once the overall form is complete, switch to your smaller tools and add detail to the carving. While you should always have razor sharp tools, it's especially important during this step. Dull tools can nick the surface of the wood and ruin the appearance of the carving. Work on one area of the carving at a time. Complete the larger details and foreground details first, then progress to the small details and background.

Protect the finished piece. If you're satisfied with your work and want to preserve the carving, you'll need to apply a wood finish that can protect the surface from moisture, oils, dirt, and other debris. It works well for decorative carvings but can wear off when applied to frequently handled carvings. Danish oil can tint the color of the wood slightly, but it tends to be quite durable and can be used for frequently handled carvings.

Spray urethane and polyurethane are the most durable finishes and generally last for long periods even if the carving is handled frequently. You'll need to apply the finish during moderate, dry weather and allow it to dry thoroughly in between coats. It depends on what you're going for. Sanding is a good finishing technique if you want a smooth surface. Remember to go with the grain, and consider using small pieces guided by small tools on small areas.

Not Helpful 3 Helpful What should be the bevel angle of woodcarving tools, such as gouges, for carving basswood? The angle of carving tools for soft woods is around 17 degrees, and for harder woods it's 25 degrees or more. Not Helpful 1 Helpful If you know what you're doing, sure. Start out with something easy, like a bar of soap.

Just make sure you ask a parent first, and possibly have someone supervise you to make sure you've got the technique down. Not Helpful 6 Helpful Rob Hall. Your hand position will change with almost every stroke of the blade, whether that be a knife blade, chisel, gouge, or other tool. You have to just keep in mind where the sharp edge is going and try to keep it from slipping into you.

Many subsequent Western and Asian copies of the Japanese Santoku do not always incorporate these features, resulting in reduced cutting ability.

A standard in Asian especially Japanese kitchens, the santoku and its Western copies have become very popular in recent years with chefs in Europe and the United States. Similar to the nakiri bocho , the style differs slightly between Tokyo and Osaka.

In Osaka, the yanagi ba has a pointed end, whereas in Tokyo the tako hiki has a rectangular end. The tako hiki is usually used to prepare octopus. A fugu hiki is similar to the yanagi ba , except that the blade is thinner. As the name indicates, the fugu hiki is traditionally used to slice very thin fugu sashimi.

The length of the knife is suitable to fillet medium-sized fish. For very large fish such as tuna , longer specialized knives exist, for example the almost two-meter long oroshi hocho , or the slightly shorter hancho hocho.

Nakiri bocho and usuba bocho are Japanese-style vegetable knives. They differ from the deba bocho in their shape, as they have a straight blade edge suitable for cutting all the way to the cutting board without the need for a horizontal pull or push. These knives are also much thinner. While the deba bocho is a heavy blade for easy cutting through thin bones, the blade is not suitable for chopping vegetables, as the thicker blade can break the vegetable slice.

The nakiri bocho and the usuba bocho have much thinner blades, and are used for cutting vegetables. Nakiri bocho are knives for home use, and usually have a black blade. The shape of the nakiri bocho differs according to the region of origin, with knives in the Tokyo area being rectangular in shape, whereas the knives in the Osaka area have a rounded corner on the far blunt side. The cutting edge is angled from both sides, called ryoba in Japanese.

This makes it easier to cut straight slices. Usuba bocho are vegetable knives used by professionals. They differ from the Nakiri bocho in the shape of the cutting edge.

While the nakiri bocho is sharpened from both sides, the usuba bocho is sharpened only from one side, a style known as kataba in Japanese.

The highest quality kataba blades even have a slight depression on the flat side. This kataba style edge gives better cuts and allows for the cutting of thinner slices than the ryoba used for nakiri bocho , but requires more skill to use.

The sharpened side is usually the right side for a right hand use of the knife, but knives sharpened on the left side are also available for left hand use. The usuba bocho is also slightly heavier than a nakiri bocho , although still much lighter than a deba bocho. Usuba knives are Japanese knives used primarily for chopping vegetables.

Both the spine and edge are straight, making them resemble cleavers, though they are much lighter. Deba knives are Japanese knives used primarily for cutting fish. They have blades that are 18 cm to 30 cm 7 to 12 inches long with a curved spine.

The popularity of this style of knife has spread with the associated cuisines. They resemble Western cleavers in appearance, but most Chinese chef's knives are relatively thin-bladed and designed for slicing, finely chopping and mincing vegetables, fish and boneless meats. However, Chinese-style knives of this weight are not common in the West. Caidao or so-called 'Chinese cleaver' is not a cleaver, and most manufacturers warn that it should not be used as a cleaver.

It is more properly referred to as a Chinese chef's knife and is actually a general-purpose knife, analogous to the French chef's knife or the Japanese santoku. The confusion arises from the fact that Chinese chef's knives are rectangular and that some particularly older, traditional knives made of carbon steel have somewhat heavy blades. Also, the fact that the blade is heavier toward the tip encourages skilled Chinese chefs to use a swinging or "tapping" stroke as well as a "pushing" stroke.

However, the edge has the gradual bevel of a chef's knife and will most probably be damaged if used for splitting bone. Actual cleavers in China have the same profile as chef's knives but have much thicker blades with a sharp bevel and heavier handles.

Modern Chinese knives are sold under three general classifications throughout China: Caidao slicers , choppers and Gudao cleavers. The general distinction lies in the thickness of the blade. Choppers are the most common all-purpose Chinese knife. Choppers have thicker blades than slicers but are not as thick and heavy as cleavers.

Choppers are used for slicing, chopping and mincing meat, vegetables and herbs. Choppers are suitable for chopping through thin soft bones such as fish and poultry. Slicers, referred to as Caidao vegetable knives by the Chinese have the thinnest and sharpest blades.

Slicers may have the same shape as choppers or they may have less width and appear similar to Japanese Nakiri knives. Slicers are used for cutting vegetables, mincing herbs and slicing thin strips of meat for stir frying. The thin blade makes slicers unsuitable for chopping any bones. Cleavers, which are referred to as bone choppers by the Chinese have thick heavy blades.

In Chinese homes, cleavers are typically used for chopping up pork ribs or for preparing hard-shelled seafood such as lobsters. The average Chinese home uses some variation of the rectangular-bladed knife, usually around 18 cm to 28 cm 7—11 inches in length.

Traditional knives had a simply-forged, carbon steel blade with a long, ground bevel, but the typical Chinese chef's knife is now a stamped blade. The traditional handle is a full-length tang that is only about 1 or 2 cm wide, which is passed through a metal cap, then through the center of a round, wood dowel, then bent over and hammered into the end of the handle to retain it.

Newer models, particularly those made in Japan or Germany, have full-width tangs and riveted or injection-molded handles, but these handles generally retain something of the traditional, round cross-section. The wide blade of Caidao keeps the cook's fingers well off the cutting surface and the round handle gives a nice "pivot point" for the cutting stroke.

The blade has a curvature or rocker along its edge that is generally uniform, improving the knife's ability to chop and mince meats and vegetables. The broad rectangular blade also serves to scoop up chopped food for transport to the wok or bowl. Although it may seem unwieldy, skilled practitioners worldwide may be observed using this style of knife for everything — even carving and fine work normally accomplished with a paring knife.

Also known as a bird's beak knife, a peeling knife has a pointed tip that curves downward sometimes upward and from side to side towards the blade.

It can be used to cut decorative garnishes such as rosettes or fluted mushrooms , slice soft fruits, or to remove skins and blemishes. It is a specialized type of paring knife.

A decorating knife is any knife with a blade designed to make a decorative cut. The most common pattern is a simple zigzag.

Decorating knives are used for making fancy cuts for garnishes and presentation. Usually about 5 cm to 8 cm 2 to 3 inches long, a trimming knife has a small, curved blade that is shaped somewhat like a boning knife. Trimming knives are ideal for small tasks such as decorating and peeling. Usually about 5 cm to 10 cm 2 to 4 inches long, a fluting knife has a small blade that is very straight.

Fluting knives are ideal for small tasks such as decorating and peeling. Certain knives are specialized for a particular food. For example, oyster knives are necessary to shuck oysters which cannot safely be opened otherwise , but are not used outside of shellfish.

A tomato knife is a small knife with a serrated blade. Typically about the size of a utility knife, tomato knives are ideal for cutting through the tough skin and soft flesh of tomatoes. An oyster knife has a short, thick blade that is used to pry open oysters and separate their meat from the shell shucking.

Some models have a shield built into the handle that prevents the knife and hand from slipping and going too far into the shell.

The handle is normally thick and short, with a bulbous end. A deveiner or deveining knife is a small knife used to remove the colon "vein" from the back of shrimp.

A grapefruit knife has a long, fat, dull blade that is used to separate the flesh of a grapefruit from the peel and inner membranes. The blade is usually serrated, with a blunt tip. Some knives even have a different blade style on each end of the handle — one for the inner membrane, one for the peel — and some have a double blade at the inner membrane end, to cut on both sides of the membrane.

A chestnut knife is used to score a chestnut with an "X" cut prior to roasting, so that steam does not build up inside and cause the nut to explode. They have very shallow blades so that they can cut through the shell without cutting through the nut inside. Also known as a Mezzaluna Italian: "half moon" because of the shape, a mincing knife is a semicircular highly curved blade with a handle that allows the blade to be rocked back and forth repeatedly on a hard surface.

This rocking motion is ideal for mincing and chopping. Some mincing knives are supplied with a wooden cutting board with a circular bowl-shaped indentation that matches the curvature of the knife. Some models have two blades that are parallel to each other to increase their mincing power. Large mezzaluna-like knives with shallow curves are sometimes used to cut pizza , though the rolling pizza cutter is more common for this purpose.

A cutting board is kitchen utensil used in conjunction with a knife. It is a flat surface, generally made of either wood , plastic or glass glass are less common because they dull the blade; used more for decoration , on which to cut food and which protects counter tops and knives from damage.

A carving fork is a long, two-pronged fork used to hold meat steady while it is being carved. Carving forks are often sold together with carving knives or slicers as part of a matched carving set. Contrary to popular belief, a honing steel or butcher's steel or sharpening Carving Kitchen Meaning Zhao steel does not sharpen knives, but instead straightens the blade, while a sharpener sharpens the blade. It is used to hone a knife blade after sharpening in order to restore the edge and improve cutting ability.

Kitchen scissors or shears can be used for many of the same jobs as knives, such as chopping herbs. A knife block is a common way to store knives safely and close at hand in the kitchen. This is an angled block of wood, steel, or other material, with slots for inserting knife blades, and sometimes other accessories, like kitchen scissors.

Most commonly used in commercial kitchens, cut-resistant gloves also referred to as cutting gloves are used on the opposite hand to the cutting hand. They are for protecting this hand should the knife slip and slice into the user's off hand. They are typically made of kevlar or Carving Kitchen Meaning 80 metal mesh. From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia. This section needs additional citations for verification.

Please help improve this article by adding citations to reliable sources. Unsourced material may be challenged and removed. November Learn how and when to remove this template message. Main article: Grind. Main article: Knife indentations. Main article: Knife sharpening. Main article: Chef's knife. Further information: Utility knife.

Main article: Bread knife. Main article: Butter knife. Main article: Cleaver. Main article: Boning knife. Main article: Fillet knife. Further information: Cheese knife. Main article: Parmesan knife. You can help Wikipedia by assisting in the translation.

See also: Japanese kitchen knife. Main article: Santoku. Main article: Tomato knife. Main article: Grapefruit knife. Main article: Mezzaluna. Further information: Cutting board. Further information: Carving fork. Further information: Honing steel.

Further information: Kitchen scissors. Further information: Cut-resistant gloves. Retrieved 6 September

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