%!$ Easy Diy Woodworking Bench Plans For You #!@

build-a-frame-chicken-coop-65 The last wall to go, and then you can put them all together and start seeing the chicken coop come together! If you have some recycled wire spools, you can try building this chicken nesting box. The Coq au Vin Windowed Design They used green sea corrugated Tuftex paneling for the roof. Adolescent chickens are not the prettiest. I put oyster shells in the pen.

Basically, build an 8 foot by 6-foot rectangle and add studs where needed! Adding the second support boards, closest to the edges after, allows the drill room to get in between to screw the header in…hope that makes sense.

The same concept as the run wall, build an 8 foot by 6 foot rectangle. Build a box that is going to frame out the nesting box. This photo also has the bottom studs added! Add the top studs. Again, start off with an 8 foot by 6 foot rectangle.

I added scrap 2x4s for hinges but ended up not using them! Sorry for the confusion! The last wall to go, and then you can put them all together and start seeing the chicken coop come together!

Last time you have to build an 8 foot by 6 foot rectangle! Build a rectangle for the window. Luckily you can screw these boards into place through the window!

If you have any questions as to the dimensions or locations of boards, make sure and download the printable plans to see detailed photos with dimensions! At this point, before setting the walls, I sealed the bottom of all the 2x4s that would be touching the ground and attached hardware cloth with screws to the bottoms so that no animals could dig under the coop! Now, we are doing the deep litter method, so there is no floor in the coop, the dirt makes the floor and you just add pine shavings weekly…it is AMAZING because there is no chicken poop smell at all!

I did a lot of research before choosing this method and I am so glad I did! Plus, once a year, I have compost ready to be placed in the garden! Anyway, back to setting the walls, I screwed the door wall to the window wall on the left, and nesting box wall on the right.

That leaves the run wall attached to the window wall and nesting box wall on the backside! One everything is level and screwed together, you can add the plywood to the walls. You will want to measure all walls and openings prior to making any cuts in your plywood! The measurements given here are based on exact measurements, any small changes in measurements affect the measurements given below! I attached plywood to the two sides that will remain 6ft.

Then using the same measurements cut another one opposite of the one above, or the same and flip it over! Again, you will cut two that are ultimately the same, just flipped opposite directions!

You will make a total of five sets of rafters, 2 will have an extra board across the bottom of the rafter as seen below. We hung all over them and climbed on them and nothing was shifting whatsoever! You can hardly see them, but the pocket holes are at the top on the left board! The bottom brace that will be on the end two rafters will be screwed in on the ends. I just attached the roof brackets directly to the 2x4s on both sides and it was sturdy enough…I mean crap, it has already survived a pretty good storm when hurricane Hanna came through!

But before I get ahead of myself, let me show how I did a couple of things first! It will not reach the top completely! The photo above is for the door wall. I added another sheet of plywood that was going on the side and traced the rafter onto it as well. And because I made a mistake on one of my pieces of plywood, I had to piece together the door wall of the coop, you will have three solid pieces though!

See how the pieces are pieced together. Your left side should look just like your right though, instead of two pieces patched together yours should be one! You will want to cut the door out before hanging the plywood as well! That is one 8ft sheet running longways. I cut it and attached it to the rafters before I put the rafter up to make it easier!

So to make putting the rafters up easier, I attached the end rafters to another rafter while on the ground. You do not have the do them this way, it just helped us throw them up and attach them a lot quicker than if we had to add the middle boards while up on top of the coop.

We only had to add the middle rafter, and that one took way longer! Place another rafter that is not an edge rafter no bottom board on top and pocket hole it into place!

In the middle of the left side of the photo, you can see the brackets I used on the end rafters, I placed three along the rafter. You can then add the next rafter, or I went ahead and attached the plywood to the door wall the front to stabilize the rafter as we placed the middle one!

Plus the plywood was already cut so it was quick and easy to throw up there! Yes, I get dressed up to work! Alright, back up in the rafters, attach the middle braces and the middle rafter! Time to layout and screw down the roofing panels! I of course have no pictures of us putting it on because it was windy as heck that day so it was all hands on deck…er roof!

If you choose to spray paint yours, make sure to wipe the steel down with vinegar, clean it really well with the vinegar so that the spray paint will adhere well to the galvanized coating! Time to add the plywood to the last side that needs it!

The run wall still needs its plywood! Okay, now that all the plywood is on, time to trim out the entire thing! I am going to pretty much show the pictures of the trim and offer any helpful tips I may have, and you can download the plans if you want to see exact measurements!

I attached the run to the wall before completing the trim work, you can do it whichever way you want, I just wanted to be able to trim around it without being perfectly precise in my measurements! I framed around the opening of course and then added the run to complete the trim. You can see the brackets we used to attach the run in the photo above as well!

It is also screwed into the coop from the inside! The final addition to the trim on the run wall that is not pictured, I added the battens to the top. They are mitered at 25 degrees off square on one end.

The nesting box will need to be built in order to trim out this wall! Check out the DIY section for windows, truss webbing, and more upgrade options to add to your kit!

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