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bailey-no-8-jointer-plane-quote Type 9 All of the features of the previous, except: "B" casting marks eliminated. If you are into that world and don't have a jointer plane, what's the problem? Go to topic listing. It is machined flat. Just entering the world of hand tools. He has an older stanley no 8.

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All 3 of the logos are the result of the merger between Stanley Rule and Level, the tool producer, and The Stanley Works, the hardware producer. The "S. A" below the heart, in one line that is longer than the length of the notched rectangle.

Some of the lever caps can be found with the outline of the sweetheart logo cast into the backside. Perhaps this is the original marking for the first SW trademark. It's about this time that the backs of the cap iron are no longer blued, but are just finished like the fronts, with nothing.

Type 13 APR is the only stuff cast behind the frog. There are several treatments of the lever cap, where its finish and the background color of the notched rectangle follow what seems to be a 'style du jour'. I can't date accurately when each of these lever cap treatments occurred, but I can list the order in which I believe they were made:.

The lever cap is machined and finished as before, with the notched rectangle's background japanned. I believe this to be the earliest since the earliest Bed Rock planes have lever caps of the same treatment Bed Rock lever caps always had some embossing on them, and the earliest ones have the japanned background.

My experience tells me that this lever cap treatment is rather uncommon. The entire lever cap is entirely nickel plated, including the background of the notched rectangle. The lever cap is nickel plated, Bailey Jointer Plane Game but the notched rectangle's background is painted in Stanley's trademark orange color. For a short period, with the lever cap nickel plated, the notched rectangle's background is decidedly reddish in color.

This may due to Stanley's working relationship with Winchester, whose planes have the same color. Either that, or someone sabotaged Stanley's orange paint supply. The later planes have a yellow background in the notched rectangle. These planes typically have the rounded iron. On some examples made during the 20's, the frogs have an orange overpaint on the sides. No "official" explanation for this has ever been determined.

Type 14 A raised ring is cast into the bed to act as a receiver for the knob. This is to stem the splitting of the knob, about its base, which was a very common thing to occur. The high knobs were very prone to this, prior to the introduction of the raised ring, due to the greater leverage capable of being placed on them than could be placed on the low knobs. Type 15 All patent info on the bottom casting is removed. This is opposite to all prior types.

Type 16 This is identical to the previous logo, except the heart and "S. A kidney-shaped hole in the lever cap replaced the old symmetrical keyhole-shaped hole. This was touted as making the cutter less likely to loosen when the depth was adjusted; the lever cap wouldn't be apt to move along its length as much. The toe now has a raised, broad, flat rib cast into it.

A similar rib is found at the heel. The frog now has an ogee-shape s-shape to the back, on either side of the lateral adjustment lever. Type 17 These are the war production planes, and there is no rhyme or reason to what is and isn't proper on these examples. But it's understandable since there are so many configurations of these planes. Any combination of the following features is possible for these planes. Some of the examples have the standard features rosewood, brass of the previous type in conjunction with some of the features of this type.

This all is likely explained by the fact that Stanley was using stock on-hand, where parts made prior to the war were simply being used. Handle and knob are hardwood stained red or painted black. Depth adjustment now is smaller, made either of steel or hard rubber. The bottom castings are much thicker and heavier than other models. The lever caps on many have a rather coarsely machined surface.

The normal two-piece construction of a brass cap and a threaded rod, used to secure the the wooden parts tote and knob to the bottom casting, is now a one piece construction like a long screw. Some examples have no frog adjusting screw, but many do. Some examples have the old-style hole keyhole-shaped in the lever cap. Type 18 Brass adjusting nuts are re-introduced, and have diagonal knurling on them.

Hardwood handles painted black. I've seen black handles on what are normally considered war production planes.

Castings are lighter, like those of the pre-war years. Type 19 The frog receiver, in the bottom casting, now is y-shaped. Rosewood is re-introduced, and is often varnished so heavily that it almost obscures the grain.

The original type study doesn't mention this, but on some of the models of this type "STANLEY" is stamped on both sides of the lateral adjustment lever. I've seen enough of Clifton Jointer Plane Quotes these to convince me that's it wasn't accidental, or if it was, it was a big screw-up.

The knurling on the brass depth adjuster is now parallel on most examples. Later examples have the familiar black paint on the hardwood tote and knob. Type study doesn't mention this, but the cutters now have rounded tops instead of the angular top.

I don't mind cleaning one up but I don't want to mess with cracked handles unless there is a place you can buy them cheap. Ill be honest I was looking at woodrivers and I think there is a LN scrub both in the If a no 8 isn't going to be used a lot Id rather be in that I have the Woodriver smoother, I couldn't resist the price either. It was easy to get super sharp and the sole was flat I am having problems getting a proper camber on the blade to eliminate track marks, but that's on me and not the plane.

In short, WR is a decent alternative Most go unused I'd bet. Unless you are going hard-core hand tool only, I wouldn't invest much into a scrub plane. After about 10 minutes of using a 8 you'll wish that you were smart enough to buy a motorized jointer. If you need to edge joint work by hand it could be useful. Although a sales motivated post, this blog entry describes a good way to view the No.

The index finger should be pointing forward and resting next to the blade or on the adjuster. This Scrub plane has seen some use. I bought it new. Weathering is from sweat. Wear at the mouth is from use. I bought it because I didn't have one, and it was only 75 bucks in almost new condition, even though it was years old.

Hey all ty for the replies. Read the thread hayden and it was helpful. Probably going to buy it. I realize I might not use it a lot. I think I will enjoy trying to restore it though as it doesnt need a ton of work. Another reason is, and I didn't want emotion to affect anyones answer but the reason he's clearing out everything is he's older and has cancer with less than a year left and he's clearing out his stuff so his wife won't have to.

So Ill probably end up picking up another tool or two I don't need but the thread was informative for me. I heard white vinegar and soaking for a couple days will make the majority of rust fall right off and ready for finer cleaning.

Will the vinegar hurt any of the moving parts? Vinegar is acid and will strip some alloys. The casting can suffer. Limit your soak to a few hours and neutralize with baking soda at the end. The safest option is to go with evaporust. It's a little more expensive, but I think it's worth it. It can't hurt the plane parts, and it's reusable a few times. It dissolves rust, but not good steel or cast iron like vinegar will if you leave it too long.

I ditched the vinegar idea. Trying to decide between shiny new look or leaving patina. I took the lever cap, oil and wet and dry sand paper and started with grit for about strokes then and and it looks pretty clean with the old look intact.

Defiantly the faster route. Going to take time to get a polish on it but this didn't take to long. I have to say for some reason the No.

If you can get it for There's plenty of YouTube videos to teach you to restore them to better than new. Every woodworker needs a jointer plane so jump on it!

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