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wood-shop-vacuum-setup-tool Clamps are invaluable and the amount of clamps in a typical workshop grows over time. If power and portability interests you, then this is the model to get. This feature allows a person to effectively plane vaduum edge of a long board without additional assistance. The bench jigs are designed to fit into pre-existing bench dog wood shop vacuum setup tool. SWMBO just returned from visiting relatives for a few weeks and giving up a little shop time this week should help me to maintain tranquility. This powerful tool has so many applications that I have highlighted below. I have seen this topic debated in woodworking forums for nearly two decades, wood shop vacuum setup tool I have not seen any compelling evidence to support the theoretical risk.

Then insert your flex pipe into the other end of the coupler. If the fit is a bit loose, you could use X-treme tape or duct tape to hold it solidly and seal it. With a good system for quick disconnect, it is simple to share a duct between two tools if you prefer, and it allows you to keep your flex hose runs shorter to minimize static pressure because moving a tool for cleaning, maintenance, etc.

If you want to dive into more detail on this topic, some of the dust collection vendors offer guidelines and services in this area, and independent researchers such as Bill Pentz provide extensive information on this topic as well. For most small shop environments, however, I am confident that if you follow these basic guidelines to design your ductwork and power it with a dust collector that is capable of pulling through an adequate volume of air, you will be pleased or even amazed with the performance.

Once designed your system to deliver enough air flow, the next thing you need to think about is how to best corral the dust at each tool.

In a separate article I will walk through the dust collection design at each tool in my shop to help you complete your dust collection system design.

Watch the next newsletter for specifics on how I optimized dust collection at various tools in my shop. Source: X-Treme Tape, Self fusing silicone rubber tape 20 ft. Click here to cancel reply.

The big issue is whether I should go with a bigger DC to support plumbing drops for each machine or a smaller DC unit and drag a hose around to each machine. Suggestions anyone??

Go for the bigger machine and pipe to each tool. Thanks for the feedback. As to your question, you can probably guess what I would suggest which is a bigger DC and a ducting system. The benefits are significant. I also think that if you stick with woodworking long enough you will eventually upgrade your DC and add a ducting system, so if you believe that you will be doing woodworking in your current location for more than a year or two, I would consider biting the bullet now and getting into a system that will meet your needs for many years as it will actually save you money in the long run and give you a better experience up front.

If I were to get a portable system, I would do one of two things. Either buy one used from someone who has recently upgraded there are lots of them out there in my area or buy one that has enough power to collect from a ducting system if you decide to add that later. That way your investment is protected when you expand the system later, and all you need to buy are a bunch of plastic tubes and fittings.

I have used PVC for 15 years at least with no problem. I do recommend a direct connection to all machines and a open connection to portable machines that are used sometimes.

I would be interested in seeing your shop made blast gates if you are willing to post a photo of them in the Forum area. Great success with both. As ar as static discharge, living in the South it is typically humid, but there are some days I get zapped while using my orbital sander with the dust collection hose attached. Its fun. The lack of resources on this topic is disheartening.

I think you will find that woodworking retailers are slowly getting up to speed on dust collection, but they are not on the cutting edge of research in this area. Companies that specialize in dust collection are much better versed on duct design, and in general where you find snaplock pipe they sell larger size pipe.

For short runs I think it will be fine, but for long runs you might not have the power to maintain fpm necessary to pull the finest dust. Hello Don, Great article! I currently have a 4 H. My shop is located in a basement and space is tight so I have to use the manifold. I am planing to build a new dedicated shop and have many drawings of my tools placement and ducts layout. My plan is not to use the manifold and use a main instead. My question should I take advantage and use the largest duct I can find for the main then branch off of it with smaller ones?

Or should I stick with the 6 inch ducts? I know the answer is basically on the length of the main and static pressure and design. I just keep going back and forth what to do off the main. In any case I am leaning heavily towards using PVC. In my research I found some web sites that may interest your readers. Hi Brent, I would be skeptical of a CFM rating that high on a 4hp machine, as many manufacturers use highly inflated CFM ratings which are probably based on a theoretical max, or something like that.

You need to keep the air velocity up or dust will settle in the pipe and build up over time, which is the risk of oversizing the pipe. But if you can maintain adequate FPM through a larger trunk, and branch off to tools with smaller pipe, that is a winner. You might also try getting an air flow meter and experimenting with some various size pipes to see what you find. If you start dipping below FPM, you should reduce the size of pipe. Bigger is better until you get below that threshold.

The unit has lots of capacity, a very high MERV rating for the filter and low noise rating 75 dbA at 10 ft. Thanks so much for your advice! Sounds like a great system and really quiet. Would love to see a pic once you are up and running…. Did you integrate the switches in your equipment? Do you have a remote? I use a remote control that was provided as an accessory from Clear Vue Cyclones. I bought a few extra remotes and I have them mounted near all of my primary tools.

Does the flex not fit over the pipe? This would mean I will need a fitting at least a coupling everywhere I want to use flex hose. Any guidance would be appreciated. Yes, you can get it over the top of PVC, but I like the flexibility of using the couplers because it provides a great quick disconnect system.

If you have trouble slipping the flex tube over the PVC just cut some slits into the PVC as you see shown in the 2nd picture in this article. Then apply a band clamp to compress the PVC so that it will easily slip down into the flex tube. If it is still tight you can warm up the flex tube a bit with a heat gun.

Thanks, Paul. I am just finishing up my separator, so I will probably start running duct tomorrow, but that still gives me some time to decide before I start cutting pipes to length. How do you attach the flex inside the coupling? One option might be to attach a coupler, and then you would have multiple options to attach to that depending upon which tool you were using it on. As far as attaching the flex pipe to the coupler, I just tuck it inside and there is enough friction to hold it on place.

Another way to do the quick disconnect is to use the bell connection at the end of the PVC pipe, rather than the coupler. In the second picture in the article, the green PVC is actually the bell coupler at the end of the pipe. I slip the PVC over the small end, and then the bell slips over the dust port on the tool.

This approach provides enough friction to hold them solidly. Geez, my machine tool teacher would call that an Interference Fit. I think this will definitely be the way to go.

Are you saying that it is a tight fit but it is difficult to slip the flex pipe into the coupler? Mine was not difficult to get in there. I just tucked one side in, and then reached through the other end of the coupler and pull the flex pipe into the coupler. If it is super tight I would cut a slit into the flex, cutting through a couple strands of the wire that wraps around it, and that should help you get it started.

Once it is started hopefully it will slide the rest of the way in without a problem. Another option would be to make your own coupler out of plywood or MDF. Or, use the bell end of the pipe as a coupler using the approach that I described previously. Paul — Yes, my flex is a very tight fit into the coupling. I have one bell end of pipe that I managed to get flex onto, though if I wanted it to connect more deeply I would have needed a heat gun. Remove the old ones with a razor knife, then lube up the new ones with a little liquid dish soap.

A win-win. Gonna give it a try in a day or two. SWMBO just returned from visiting relatives for a few weeks and giving up a little shop time this week should help me to maintain tranquility. Thanks for all your help this week. Since upgrading to a more powerful dust collector I have gotten some minor shocks at the tools during the dry MN winter, but nothing to be concerned about. I did receive a major shock when I overfilled my plastic dust collector and ran it for a while before I realized it.

All those wood shavings swirling in a plastic funnel was a wicked combination. So I wrapped a ground wire around the dust collector a couple times and grounded it.

I have overfilled the dust collector a few times since, but no more shocks of that magnitude. Thanks for this. Appreciate you sharing this. Hi, many thanks for the informative discussion. I totally agree with the comments on gentle curves and corners and have found that this minimises chances of clogging the duct on flexible systems. I am in the process of setting up a new workshop and will be looking at a PVC rigid pipe system this time. As I will probably end up with a right-angle run with the dust collector at the right angle, one on each arm should suffice.

At his stage, I will probably purchase a 2Hp dust collector. I am inclined to include it at the design stage as the ducting will be less accessible after construction. Thanks for the comments. I agree; if you plan to ground the ducting, it would be far better to do it as you install it rather than waiting until later.

Thanks, one of the best and simplistic explanations on the web. I have a powermatic model 73 with in inlets would using 6in main line over power the unit? Hi Frank, thanks for the kind words. The Powermatic 73 is a 1. Essentially this would reduce static pressure in the overall system with increased air speed right at the tool itself. I would keep the use of flex pipe to an absolute minimum. Also, I suggest installing a couple extra elbows at various places in the system that can be used to inspect the ducting for dust build-up.

Great advice! I am going to use a 5hp Super Dust Gorilla so as never to be wanting more power. I want to use pvc ducting and your article gives me a good start. Be sure to get the stuff with the thinnest walls that you can find. Hi Paul- Please see the comments I have left on grounding the dust collection system. Feel free to comment, this is an important subject. Hi Scott, thanks for sharing your thoughts on this. It is good to hear that there is continuing research on this important topic.

I have not personally done scientific analysis in this area, but anecdotally I am not aware of a prevalence of explosions due to non-grounded PVC ducting. If your research findings or demonstrative evidence are available on-line please feel free to post a link so that other readers can view this information to help them make an informed choice in this area as they set up their dust collection systems.

This is the beauty of on-line articles; the ability to keep the discussion going long after the articles are published. I love it! Without going on too long here, see the directions from Shop Fox above. Most if not all collectors come with a warning like this. Usually when we see a cloud of dust in the shop, we think about not breathing in too much of it. The real danger is having a spark occur at the same time. One of the other members here wrote that he saw and felt a very large spark when he was dumping his bags.

This would be easily able to cause an explosion if the right amount of dust was floating in the air at the time. Grounding your existing ductwork would not be expensive or time consuming. Its like having ABS in your car, you might not know how many times it saves you. But you surely will know when it does not. These are good points, Scott, and I understand the theoretical risk; wood dust is flammable, and under the right conditions it can ignite. The comparison to the health risks of breathing dust and driving dangers are fair to an extent, although there is a lot of evidence to suggest that those items in fact can be statistically linked to health problems and injury.

With the prevalence of PVC used in dust collection systems around the US, if the risk is in fact statistically significant there should be numerous examples of explosions resulting from this. I have seen this topic debated in woodworking forums for nearly two decades, but I have not seen any compelling evidence to support the theoretical risk. First, I would like to review your research findings if they provide examples of explosions caused by non-grounded PVC ducting. If there is emerging data in this area then I want to be informed, and I believe that there will be widespread interest across our readership as well.

Secondly, if you have a means of demonstrating the explosiveness of wood dust in simulated small shop ductwork, I would like to collaborate with you to produce a video on this topic if you are interested, as this would be received extremely well by the woodworking community.

Thanks again for sharing your thoughts on this. After doing more research, I will admit that you are correct in most cases. My concern is not with dust that is moving inside the duct, but with the static that is discharged when nearby events such as cleanup with an air hose, sweeping, or emptying dust bags creates a dust cloud. This supports the use of PVC as safe. Be careful out there. Re: Grounding- I have worked in an industrial woodworking environment for 35 years.

There is almost zero danger of an electric shock to a human, but very big hazard of having a dust explosion! That tiny static shock you might feel is plenty to cause a cloud of dust to blow up.

Moving air causes enormous amounts of static electricity. Typical metal ductwork can dissipate this fairly easily, as it is often attached to metal building structure parts. PVC can not ground by itself, and the fact that it is a good insulator increases the static buildup much higher than metal.

If you already have PVC, at least run a bare copper wire along the outside of the duct to ground. It would be better if it was on the inside, but this is not always practical. In many areas it is strictly against code to use PVC for this purpose. Good luck, and work safe.

Here is an example if instruction from Shop Fox, a popular portable dust collector manufacturer. System Grounding. Ensure that each machine is continuously grounded to the dust collector frame with a ground screw, as shown in Figure While I agree with most of your article, I strongly caution any use of PVC pipe in a wood dust collection system.

Just because you may not have had any issues in the past does not mean that you are capturing the dust safely. My suggestion is to use only metal duct, make sure the dust collector will provide 4, Fpm feet per minute velocity in the duct and only capture wood dust with your dust collector. These simple steps will drastically reduce your dust explosion risks. Love the system but for one thing: Insurance companies Pretty sure every single one of them will not cover a house fire if there is a non metallic DC system and they can claim that the fire started there.

They allow no substitutions like ground wires straps etc. They only cover metal ducts that are grounded. What are the odds that a DC will cause a fire? Maybe remote. PVC duct systems are common in hobbyist woodworking shops but users are encouraged to perform their own due diligence to verify their insurance coverage. Love your DC. Love your approach. I learned that no insurance company will cover a fire that they can claim arose from a dust collection system not made from grounded metal piping.

Put aside the whole fire risk or not question and ask the other question of insurance coverage. The problem is that insurance companies have an unshakable conviction that non metal ducting is an unreasonable fire hazard.

You answered several questions I had about setting up a dust collection system in my shop. Tahnks for writing the article, it was very good for me. I dont know if you can answer my question. I want to make piping for my cfm dust collector. At the output of the collector, there will be 2 lanes.

The left lane will be on 4 inch pvc duct for about 14 feet with about four 45 degrees elbows. The right lane will be on 6 inch pvc for about 30 feet with a 5 feet of vertical duct on the 30 feet with about four 45 degrees elbows. At the end of the 30 feet, it will have about 16 feet of 4 inch pvc to reach the tools.

You will be surprised by how easy this power tool swallows every small solid material like rock chips from your shop. It quickly absorbs tiny particles of sawdust that you cannot see with your naked eye. Besides, the DWV comes with an automatic filter control system that cleans the filters after every 30 seconds hence ensures continual operation. One final and fantastic feature of this unit is the provision to connect it to a power tool for automatic on and off dust collection ability.

Here is another best shop vac for woodworking, especially if you are looking for one with a large dust chamber capacity. It is a gallon shop vac that does an excellent job when it comes to cleaning debris. This unit is a 2-in-1 vacuum that cleans through vacuuming as well as blowing the debris. The motor of this shop vac delivers 6. Tacklife PVC01A is a 3-in-1 shop vac with a design that allows it to pick up dirt, sand, wood chippings , liquid spills, as well as metal shavings.

This unit comes with a rear blower port that lets the user blow out any dirt that might not be easy to reach. This shop vac is a wet-dry vacuum with a 5-gallon tank. Besides, it has a hose and accessory storage that ensures everything is ever at hand. The cleaning range of this unit measures 17 feet. What makes this unit the best shop vac for woodworking is the Buoy technology, which automatically shuts off when you go past the level in the bucket.

This automatic action is excellent for the protection of the motor, ensuring its durability. One outstanding feature of this unit is that it comes with a small portable blower that you can detach from the unit. Considering that you can detach it, you get the flexibility of using this shop vac on other duties other than just a standard shop vac. Additionally, this model comes with a large gallon tank.

Its frame is, however, slender enough to wheel it around obstacles with a lot of ease. Moreso, this model comes with an extra-large drain, something that will prove handy if you ever have to clean up a massive water spill. The motor has a 5 horsepower at its full load, which is extremely powerful. A drawback of this shop vac is the cord, which is only 12 feet long.

As much as most people love this machine, it gives them so much flexibility when they use it with an extension cord. If power and portability interests you, then this is the model to get. I would not advise that you walk into a store and just buy any shop vac.

You need to do some research and a comprehensive understanding of the unit before settling for one. Here are some factors that you need to consider in the process.

A shop vac with more significant horsepower is the ones with higher suction capacity. As you would expect, the units with higher suction capacity are more expensive. Therefore, you should choose one depending on your needs other than the prices. In case you are moving with your shop vac from one place to the next, you should go for a machine that has wheels.

Small-sized shop vacs are great for casual usage. A shop Vac comes with a lot of versatility. This powerful tool has so many applications that I have highlighted below. As much as a regular vacuum cleaner is a great asset when it comes to sucking in possible stray hairs on your pets, however, if you are looking for the best cleaner to eradicate most of the hair on your pets, then you use a shop vac.

If the need arises that you need a bucket for mopping the floor of your workshop, you can always convert the base of your shop Vac into a helpful bucket. Considering that shop vacs have powerful suction capabilities, you can use them as drying tools as well. If your furniture gets wet, for example, or you happen to have washed them and are looking to make them dry faster, you can always use shop Vac. These machines are great at drying of material, and you will be surprised at how quickly you complete your drying tasks using them.

In case you are looking to store food inside a sealed bag, you can choose to use a Shop Vac to suck away the air. It does work in no time. I use my shop vac as a water pump almost every other day. The ease at which this power tool sucks away water is magical.

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