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watco-stains-oils-60 Many thanks! Not sure if there is much hope for the overpaint. Very thin application is required with this product and a test area is always recommended first to ensure the product watco stains oils 60 well for your project and that you like the finish that will be achieved. And the Raw Polyx Oil is designed to avoid this darkening effect and leave the wood as natural as possible. The good thing about watco stains oils 60 is that they are easy to patch repair and will blend well for situations such as yours.

Good to hear from you again, I have answered your query about the Horse Chestnut table and. Osmo do not like recommending this product for horizontal surfaces as these areas can be exposed to standing water, and this will damage the treatment fairly quickly resulting in the wood silvering quicker.

As long as regular maintenance is kept up then this product is still a good option. The Natural will have some white pigment in it to counteract the darkening impact of a clear oil. On darker wood this will show up as slightly milky or if the oil is over applied. To avoid the milky finish there is the clear, this one will darken the wood however. If you have any further questions please do not hesitate to get in touch. I have recently purchased two unfinished solid oak doors which I will be using internally within bedroom and ensuite bathroom.

I would like to retain the natural look of the wood without too much of a glossy finish, however want to know which product is best considering bathroom will have more exposure to steam although as a guest room this will not be excessive. For a natural look and feel I would recommend the Osmo Door Oil it penetrates the surface of the wood and dries hard to give a protective moisture repellent finish. For the bathroom door I would also recommend the application of the Osmo Wood Protector before the oil.

This gives added protection against moisture and will help to prevent blue stain. If you take a look at these products and feel free to get back to me if you have any further questions. Hi I have recently purchased an outdoor table made of Garuga.

That is not a species of wood that gets mentioned very often, I believe it is a tropical Hardwood and the heartwood will be reddish in appearance. As it is a tropical hardwood it is also possible that it will have a naturally high moisture content and a tight grain, these are factors that will need considering when choosing the right product.

A slightly thinner oil should be considered for easier penetration of the woods surface and a good option for this is the Osmo Decking Oil although marketed for decking is versatile enough to use on a wide range of exterior projects, including your table and a little will go a long way.

Depending on the size of your table you may get away with 1 or 2 of the ml sample tins. This oil will darken the wood slightly however and you are able to get an idea of how much by wiping the bare surface of the wood with a damp cloth. If you take a look at the decking Oil and feel free to get back to me with any questions that you have. Always try a test area first. I bought some raw beech veneer, ironed it onto some plywood and stained it.

I then applied a clear varnish from homebase made specially for this purpose, but I am not happy with the finish. These are to create commercial finish samples for contract furniture.

Can you get in touch via our contact us page, with details of how you applied the varnish and if you denibbed between coats and what with?

And some more details of the actual varnish , was it water or solvent based? Denibbing between coats helps to give a far superior finish to the wood along with the application method. I have bought internal oak vaneer doors and was advised by my builder to use linseed oil to finish them.

We have a great range of oils that can be used on doors and for the most untouched look that still gives the best protection you could have a look at the Fiddes Hard Wax Oil Natural This is a very durable finish that has a minute amount of white pigment in it to counteract the darkening impact you get from a clear oil.

It is ideal for use on light to mid toned woods, dark woods can result in a milky effect finish. And so a test area is vital, this will show if there are any issues with applying the oil to the oak and that you will like the colour to be achieved. You may also want to double check any paper work that comes with the doors, manufacturers often recommend against oils or stains on veneered finishes as they believe there is a risk to the adhesive under the veneer. Although we have never had any reports of this occurring it is best to check as the use of non recommended products may invalidate any guarantee you will have with your door.

If this is the case than you can get back in touch for some alternate products via our contact us page, or if you have any further questions please do let me know. Hi team, thank you for offering this help! I have some sanded pine floors which I have stained and now want to oil. Which would be better for flooring, Danish oil or Osmo oil?

Is one better than the other for flooring? My apologies for the delay in getting back to you. The Osmo dries to a hard and protective finish that will far outlast any Danish oil finish.

It requires less maintenance and is easy to repair should the need arise. Danish Oil is suitable for flooring but will require a fresh coat around every 6 months to keep up appearance and protection.

I have some large yew logs. One log has been split down and I am hand craving one piece into a bowl. Once I have the finished bowl I am unsure what product is the best to reduce the splitting, preserve the wood and retain the natural red in the wood. Any chance of some advice? You will need to allow the wood to dry out a little before application and then an oil such as Osmo Polyx Oil is a great choice.

You will only need a couple of sample sachets or the ml tin as a little goes a long way, it requires just two thin coats for application. It is food safe once cured and will help to prevent cracking in the wood, it will not stop it, if the wood is going to shift a lot as it dries, but it will certainly help to nourish the wood and reduce the chances or cracking. If you take a look at the Polyx and feel free to get back to me with any questions you may have.

Always do a test area first. I think I got the stain out but now need to re-oil it. When I put water on it looks perfect. My question is which type of oil considering I have no idea what the rest of the table uses? Linseed, teak, something else? The fact that it looks right when you have applied the water indicates that a clear product is what you need.

And for the small area that you have got to cover one or two sample sachet of Osmo Polyx Oil will be enough to cover the area effected This is a durable and hard wearing oil and I would recommend a small test area first to see how well it goes with the rest of the table.

I am currently researching into an effective sealant for exterior shou sugi ban finished wood. I have come across recommendations to use boiled linseed oil. The hesitation I have with this is the VOC intensity of the additives used to help reduce the curing period. However, they carry a high price tag with them — whether it is worth it is the question here.

I can make a few recommendations, however these will come with no guarantees as the products have not been tested for use on this method of treating and preserving the wood, although it is becoming more popular.

I am going to recommend a decking oil from Barrettine Decking Oil as a possibility and also the Osmo Decking Oil to consider as there is a black in this range. Test areas are strongly recommended to ensure you like the finish but also that the wood will take the oil with out issue.

I hope that helps and feel free to get back to me with any questions or to let me know how you are getting on. Just sanded a pine kitchen table and am now looking to oil it. It needs to be food-safe. I have some polyx-oil raw left over from doing a floor. Will that be OK for the table? I am sorry for the delay in getting back to you.

I can confirm the the Osmo Polyx Oil Raw is suitable for use on a worktop, it is food safe once dry and will give a natural look and feel to the wood, whilst protecting from moisture ingress and stains.

Very thin application is required with this product and a test area is always recommended first to ensure the product works well for your project and that you like the finish that will be achieved.

If there is anything further that I can help with please do not hesitate to get in touch contact us page and I will be happy to help. People have suggested all sorts of things to prevent cracking from wax to sucrose solution to pentacryl. Would Danish oil perhaps work?

I was given a large jug of the oil and would like to use it and pentacryl is quite expensive and would like to try something a bit more affordable. It is the natural process of drying out wood. Applying Oils may reduce cracking and keep the wood nourished, but if the wood still needs to dry out then sealing it will trap moisture in and can cause damage further down the line. For Green Oak we do not recommend a finish. I hope that helps and if you have any further questions please do not hesitate to get in touch.

Have new screen room with shiplap rough sawn cedar ceiling and cedar decking floor boards. I like the color variation of the cedar with the white streaks and darker areas contrasting. I am considering teak oil or tung oil, what do you think? Also, please comment on the rough sawn surface, it would seam that might make the wiping off step more difficult, and sanding between coats nearly fruitless?

Can you send me some photos of these areas, I am not entirely sure what you mean by white streaks and what these are? And can you tell me if there is any finish on there currently? You can email me directly at wood finishes.

I purchased a beautiful and terribly expensive 2. Like Maggie above, I am looking to protect the surface but also want to preserve the natural color and texture? Can you recommend what oil I should use and if I should be using a brush or cloth to apply? Do not worry, I am happy to help you find the right product, the Fiddes Hard Wax oil Natural is a good starting point as it is designed to offer a great level of protection whilst maintaining that untouched look. It is available in sample size and so I would recommend this first to ensure you will like the way that it looks and that it will not change the wood.

Acacia wood can be quite dark in tone and this is where you will have to take care and the test area is vital. The oil may need working well into the wood to avoid any white residue from showing and any excess removed. If the white residue does show through and you do not like this finish then the alternative is to use a wax. Fiddes Supreme Wax Polish this will not give as much protection as the oil but will barely change the wood, in terms of colour, and can be re coated as often as you would like to refresh.

In terms of application for the oil a brush is best as you can use it to really work the oil into the wood, and then a lint free cloth to remove any excess. For the wax you can use a cloth for application and buffing up to shine if required.

If you take a look at these two and feel free to come back to me with any questions that you may have via out contact page. I can recommend the Fiddes Hard Wax Oil Natural this is a protective oil that contains a minute amount of white pigment to give the most untouched finish. I would recommend a test are a first to ensure that you are getting the finish that you want. This oil requires just two thin coats for a durable and moisture resistant finish. If you would like to have a read up of the products and feel free to get back to me with any questions you may have.

I have several Siberian Elm cookies that I am making into end tables. What do you suggest I use? Oils and Varnishes are not compatible products and so can not be used together. Varnish is a surface seal that gives a better level of protection and will last longer. It can be difficult to maintain or repair over time however. Danish Oil will give a more natural look and feel and reasonable level of protection. A Hard Wax Oil will give a much more durable and long lasting finish in its own right and does not require any top coat finish.

It is easy to maintain over time by simply applying a fresh coat when needed. These are internal use products to be applied to bare dry wood.

If you are looking for something exterior feel free to get back in touch to let me know and I can suggest some alternative products. I have been given two slices from an old yew tree and have made them into a coffee table with a central pillar of black poplar. The yew has sanded down beautifully to a very smooth finish grit , showing up the lovely grain along with a range of colours from cream through browns and reds with even some purple streaking.

I have also filled just a couple of spots with a cream-coloured epoxy filler that matches the outer wood very well. Now, what sort of finish would you recommend please? Also, what should I use on the black poplar, which appears to be quite soft? Does this require a conditioner if I decide to stain it? In its natural, sanded state it is a light fawn colour and I think would provide a nice contrast if it were darkened a little. Sounds like a great project! There are a couple of products that you could consider and for a natural look and feel a Hard Wax Oil is a good place to start.

It will soak in to the surface of the wood and give a moisture and stain repellent protective finish. It will highlight and enhance the grain and colours that you have in the wood and I would strongly recommend a test area first to ensure you like the effect it will have on the wood.

It will darken the wood slightly also. The other alternative and for a more durable finish you could have a look at the Manns Extra Tough Interior Varnish and we have a video on our YouTube Channel of our own Yew Table being made. It is with a high gloss but the principle of application would be the same. I have acquired a large slab of English Ash which I intend to use as a dining table.

I am about to start the sanding process but what oil would recommend to finishing please? Thank you for your enquiry, a good option is the Fiddes Hard Wax Oil. It is a good product to consider, food safe, durable and easy to apply, clean and maintain. And all that is required is two thin coats for application. I would recommend a test area first as this will ensure firstly that you like the finish that will be achieved and also that there are no issues with application of this particular product.

A clear oil will slightly darken the tone of the wood and enhance the grain and you are able to get an idea of this by wiping a damp cloth over the surface of the wood. If you find this to be too dark then the alternate option is the Fiddes Hard Wax Oil Natural this one contains a minute amount of white pigment to counteract the darkening you get with a clear oil.

If you have a look at the recommendations and feel free to get back to me if you have any further questions. I have just had a conservatory installed which has african hardwood horizontal surfaces, on the interior. The glazing has some UV protection.

Please recommend an oil, ideally low maintenance. One clear interior product that we have that offers UV protection is the Osmo Uviwax. It would be ideal for your project and is available in a sample tin size to do a test area first. Alternatively, applying a colour will give UV protection to the wood and the darker the colour the more the protection it will give.

And for this you could have a look at Holzol Furniture Oil Tints. Two thin coats will give colour and protection in one. If you have a look at these and feel free to come back to me with any questions you may have. Hi guys, I make pictures out of wood. They have many layers and I use either wood stains or acrylic water paints.

The overall finish is good but I want to paint one or if necessary, two coats of an oil that will make the colours vibrant and rich. Also it will bring out the lovely grain. Any ideas which might be the best oil to use please? Thanks, Roy. There are a number of products you can consider and so if you can give me a little more information that would be great. For example what is the wood that you are applying to? Do you want an opaque paint like finish or something a little transparent that shows the grain of the wood?

If you email me and I can make some suggestions. Hello what a great site! We have a coffee table we brought back from India, varnished fairly dark wood with white elephants inlaid possibly bone.

Over time the varnish has started flaming off and the wood is fading below it, would love to get rid of the varnish and bring out the natural colours in the wood, not sure how to do either?

Thank you! I would strongly recommend a small test area somewhere inconspicuous first to check that there is no adverse reaction. If this works and you are able to take the wood back to bare, you could consider an Watco Stains Oils Design oil to bring out the natural tones and colour of the wood.

It may be that it is a hardwood and so a thinner oil such as Osmo Extra Thin , which will be absorbed more easily into a tropical hard wood. Again test area is recommended. I have no idea how to care for the wood or the best product to use on it.

It is going pale in places and also has tiny cracks appearing. Any advice would be much appreciated thanks. Firstly are you able to send me any photos? Of the whole area and a close up of the cracks. There is also a small test that you can do that may help to determine what finish is currently on the wood.

Leave a small drop of oil, olive or vegetable from the kitchen cupboard is fine, on an inconspicuous area and leave it for 30 minutes to an hour. If the oil remains unmoved you are likely to have a varnished finish and if the oil soaks in or moves then there is a good chance that it is finished with an oil.

Email me with the photos and the results of the test to wood finishes. Hi — excellent blog by the way — we are currently building a holiday cabin and want to leave the rough timber spruce or larch beams in the living room exposed. Just want to preserve as much of the natural colour as possible. Have you any advice? Wax is more often than not the recommended product for beams, as it is a natural finish that leaves the wood unchanged.

It makes the beams easier to clean or dust and can be topped up when you feel the wood needs refreshing. As you have a rough wood you will need to take care with application. The wax can build up in crevices and dips leaving a milky residue, a Course Brush can help with this. Have a look and if you have any questions please do get in touch. Hi, I have a beech laminated panel worktop which I intend to use as a desk surface.

Can you offer any advice on what might be best to protect it with please in the way of oil? Thank you for your enquiry, can you tell me if it is a laminate or veneer? Laminates are often a photo with a plastic seal on it made to look like wood where as a veneer is a slice of the wood and depending on the depth of the veneer may or may not be viable for an oiled finish. If you are able to email me with those details and also if you are looking for a natural or coloured finish and I can narrow down a selection of products that may suit your needs.

You can email me at wood finishes. Wow, lots of information here. We have just installed a new exterior factory painted door with an unfinished mahogany threshold. How would you recommend we finish the threshold?

The door faces south and is somewhat protected by an overhang. We live in an area with hot summer weather and snowy winters. Many thanks for your advice! Thresholds tend to wear quickly due to high traffic and not many products will stand up to or be recommend for use on thresholds. For bare wood, I recommend a Decking Oil as a good option, it will soak into the surface of the wood and will be easy to maintain and repair over time. Simply reapply a fresh coat when you feel the wood needs it.

For exposed areas as you have suggested this is, then an annual top up would be adviced. I hope this helps and if you have a read up of the decking oil and let me know if you have any further questions. I am happy to help. Hi, We commissioned a local Amish woodworker to build a picnic table.

Untreated fresh eastern US Larchwood was chosen for the material. We would like to know what type of finish would best preserve the wood for long term outdoor use, while still being as natural and Nontoxic as possible. Low toxins and durability are our priorities though. Exterior Oil are good for these types of projects. The Osmo Natural Oil Woodstain is a range of natural coloured oils that help to make the wood water repellent and slow down the silvering process.

It can only be applied to bare wood and require two thin coats. It is also available in sample sizes. For green wood it is not recommended to apply treatment, generally green wood has a high moisture content and most treatments will not adhere or be absorbed.

If you have a look at these products and come back to me if you have any further questions. Thanks Kevin. Hi Sam, we purchased a garden furniture set last July and were recommended to apply OSMO uv protection oil clear, which we applied 2 coats as recommended. Unfortunately the wood is losing its colour actually started process after only a few months and has started to silver in places and mould spots. I have read that you should only use the oSMO product on vertical surfaces?

The UV Protection Oil from Osmo is a great treatment for exterior woods if you wish to have a clear finish. It will help to slow down the silvering and help to make the wood water repellent. Clear treatments do offer limited UV however and it would be fair to say that by applying a colour, even a slight one it will improve the UV protection.

And like sunscreen for us with higher factors, the darker the colour the more the protection. If the wood is particularly exposed to the sun it will start to fade quicker. So regular top ups will help to hold off the silvering or applying a slightly tinted oil will help.

For the mould I would recommend the Mould and Mildew Cleaner as a great option. And if there is anything further that I can help with please do let me know. Hi Sam, very informative site. I do not think that you have been asked these questions. I have two 17 year old exterior oak doors with oak frames. They have been treated with Danish oil periodically over this period probably not often enough so that now in places, especially the frames, are patchy with some black cracks.

The sills have gone grey with some cracks and the doors are speckled in some areas. I would like to restore them as much as possible. I have seen that oxalic acid is recommended as restoring oak.

Is this the best option and will I need to strip back first.? Would Osmo uv protection oil be a better choice than Danish and Can you apply It over Danish oil treatment or is it best to strip back again. What is the best method of dealing with the cracks that have blackened? Black can be an indication of mould from water ingress or it could be a reaction from the oak itself.

If you would like to send any photos to wood finishes. Give the wood a good clean and maybe sand to remove any stains. If the black is mould then the Mould and Mildew Cleaner is a good place to start.

It is more durable and hard wearing than the traditional Danish Oil for sure. It requires two thin coats for application and may need topping up annually or bi annually, depending on exposure.

Unlike Danish which requires far more regular maintenance. It would be wise to fill any cracks with wood filler to help prevent further water ingress and take care to maintain any horizontal sills that could be effected by standing water. I have outside bench seat recently made from beech thick planks. What can you suggest to protect them from rot, mould, wood boring insects etc. I want to keep them looking as natural as possible, Thanks.

If the wood is bare then the first thing that I would recommend is a preservative to help prevent mould, mildew and rot. This will help to make the wood moisture repellent and slow down the silvering process.

The Natural is designed to leave the wood looking as natural as possible and the clear will darken very slightly. If you have a look at these products and feel free to come back to me if you have any questions. Most recommend Danish Oil, but others have suggested a brushing wax buffed up.

As this is for a threshold, it needs to be something durable, able to withstand foot traffic. I would recommend the Fiddes Hard Wax Oil. It requires less coats that the Danish and is far more hard wearing. It will leave the wood looking and feeling very natural and it is likely that you will only need a small tin. It may be of some benefit to sand the wood with a grit to ensure the wood is in good condition to accept the oil.

And then once clean and dry the Teak Oil. This particular oil is slightly thinner and suited to hardwood with a tighter grain. An exterior oil will be easier to maintain and repair should the need arise. If you have a read of the products and feel free to let me know if there is anything further that I can help with.

Hi, Is it acceptable to use flooring oil on a new bare oak kitchen worktop? Also is it acceptable mix mix floor oil like Morels with tung oil to apply to furniture? I am not familiar with the Morrells Floor Oil but I would expect that to be more than suitable for the floor with out having to add any thing. For more advice you could give us a call on and one of our advisers will be happy to help. I have lots of opened olive oils in my kitchen.

May I use the olive oil on my deck? If yes, could you tell me how to do it. Also may I use the decking stain after using the olive oil treatment? I would not advise Olive Oil for a decking treatment, it will not be durable enough and is unlikely to last very long. There is also a chance that it will get mouldy on the surface of the wood or be effected by heat in the Summer.

We have a wide range of decking treatments available on our website and you are welcome to call and speak to one of our friendly advisers who will be glad to offer help in choosing a decking treatment to suit your needs. I have acquired a teak patio set that is close to 30 years old and still structurally sound but desperately needs restoring.

It originally had some varnish or varathane? We live in forest country — no visiting cats here! My husband loves the honey color of oiled teak — so no grey weathering. Also, we recently purchased another bench and small side table to add to the set and they are totally unfinished. If you are able to get all the furniture back to bare wood then a good option will be the Garden Furniture Oil from Barrettine.

A protective oil for new, untreated and weathered garden furniture, with low odour and easy application. Hi, we just bought a new oak kitchen table. When we ordered it we were told that we would need to oil it regularly to maintain it which we were happy to do. Now that the the table has been delivered it came with a leaflet saying that it is a lacquer finish and that it should only be wiped with a dry cloth.

How do we care for this table which with two small kids will get a lot of abuse! Worst case we are considering putting a sheet of glass over the top to protect it.

A lacquer is very similar to a varnish in that it is a surface sealer. It should offer good protection but with out knowing which lacquer it is, I cannot comment. It is not possible to apply an oil over a lacquer as the oil needs to penetrate into the wood, the current finish will prevent this.

You can see how you get on with the current finish an if it is durable enough. Or if you find that its not or you would like to change the finish, you can sand back to bare wood and choose a product such as Fiddes Hard Wax Oil. For marks and scrapes that can occur when you have children I know all about that the oil finishes are good to be patch repaired, simply sand back with a Finishing Pad , clean and then re-oil. I need to order some Osmo extra thin teak oil to touch up a 35 year old elaborate hand carved teak table and legs.

You can order the Osmo Extra Thin via our website or over the phone, just give us a call. Can you tell me if these caps are inside the car? Sorry, not an expert on classic cars, but I will be happy to help if I know the location. We have had 3 Oak internal doors fitted in the kitchen and airing cupboard, we were told to use linseed oil but after reading this site we are not sure!

So many different oils! Sorry if this question has already been asked! Thank you for your help! It can be difficult with so many variations on the market. The Linseed Oil is an option for sure. It will offer limited protection and good nourishment to the wood. It is easy to apply and you can add a number of layers. It does have a slow drying time however but for some this traditional oil is ideal.

If you are looking for something that is a little quicker in drying time and requires less coats then the Fiddes Hard Wax Oil is a great option. It is more durable and hard wearing, will last longer in terms of protection and still gives that natural look and feel to the wood.

If you are applying to bare wood then you could consider the Fiddes Hard Wax Oil. It is available in a ml sample tin and a little goes a long way. If it is a hardwood you may need to look at the Extra Thin Oil from Osmo to get a better absorption. If you have a read up of the product and feel free to let me know if you have any further questions. I am going to install some French doors from one of the leading internet suppliers. The doors are oak veneered and will face south-west although in a fairly sheltered spot in southern England.

The treated ones which cost quite a lot more are apparently varnished and are guaranteed for 3 years. If so, which? I would tend to recommend an oil over a varnish for exterior finishes. The reason being as you say varnishes can tend to peel and flake over time. It would be fair to say that a varnish will last longer in terms of protection and durability than an oil, however once it comes to the end of life or gets damaged it is likely to need stripping off in order to retreat.

With an Oil you can simply re apply a fresh coat if and when you feel that the wood needs it, without the need to strip it back to bare wood. You may also want to consider a preservative to protect against mould, mildew and rot before the application of an oil. I have a pine dining room table which was untreated when I bought it and sustained some minor water damage following a leak through the ceiling above it. Having left the water to dry out over some months, the evidence of the leak still remains.

What would be the best way to disguise these marks? I thought perhaps using an antique pine danish oil may work? There are a number of suggested ways to remove water stains, however I can not guarantee any of them as it is not something that we have tested here at Wood Finishes Direct. If the stain is still there, mix equal amounts of baking soda and toothpaste together to make a slightly stronger, yet still mild, abrasive and rub that mixture on the stain.

Try all the above with care and although I cannot endorse these methods as such many people have recommended them on various forums and websites. If the stain is a dark colour then this means that the water has soaked deeper into the wood and is a little harder to remove.

You will need to try sanding back to remove the stain. I hope that helps and feel free to come back to me if you have any further questions. The wood has many different swirls and shades of colors. However in finishing the item, the furniture designer has used a heavy coat of natural oil which has tinted all the different shades of brown to various shades of orange.

Can you please tell me what is the best way for me to restore the colors back to shades of brown? To remove the current oil finish you can use White Spirit and a Finishing Pad.

This should remove most of the oil. Any stubborn oil may need to be sanded out. Once back to bare wood I think you may need to leave to dry out for a few weeks and see how the wood looks. Do you know if the orange area is heart wood?

And what oil it was originally treated with? I think in order to get a more brown finish to the wood, you will need to apply a stain such as Light Fast Stain. This will give a strong colour and should not raise the grain as a water-based stain may do.

Test areas are very important, however, as the wood that you are applying to will have an impact on the overall colour that can be achieved.

Once you have the desired colour then a top coat of clear oil can be applied to protect, but again a test area should be carried out to see how the oil impacts on the stain. I hope that helps and if you have any further questions please do not hesitate to let me know. Would like as natural as possible finish. You could have a look at the Fiddes Hard Wax Oil. This oil soaks in to the surface of the wood and gives great durability and protection to the wood.

It give a natural look and feel to the wood. And is easy to clean, maintain and repair over time. If you have a look at the product and our YouTube video and feel free to let me know if you have any questions.

I have a pine table from Next which appears to have been stained with a furniture oil. I recently had an accident where a bottle of insect repellant containing deet leaked from the bottle.

The liquid seems to have eaten through the finish on the table and caused a ring to appear underneath where the bottle was placed my bad! I created a paste of bicarbonate of soda and water and placed it on the stain for a few seconds, before wiping away, in an attempt to remove any acid in the wood. Would it be possible to restore the table by touching the area up with some wood oil or would I have to strip back the entire surface?

I have pictures if this might assist. I would be greatly for any help and suggestions :o. Generally oils are easy to patch repair, however it does help to have the original oil that the wood was treated with. You can email to wood finishes. Is there a oil product that can be sprayed or brushed on? The boards will be used on a new barn that I am tying to make look old and more natural.

We do often get asked about making new wood look old to make it fit in with surroundings and we have a number of products that can help with that. It will very much depend on the colour that you are hoping to achieve, but as a starting point I can recommend the Fiddes Hard Wax Oil Tints. This product gives great protection whilst adding a colour to the wood. As the wood is rough sawn you may find application of this oil could be patchy which will help with the old look, also after it has dries, some sanding can help take away the freshly applied look.

Another thing that is and option is to apply one colour first and then another over the top but leaving the underneath showing through in areas to give a worn effect. Test areas will be the key to getting the effect that you want. If little protection is needed for the wood, as in it is not flooring or furniture then you could also consider a coloured wax which can give a very natural look to the wood, or a water-based stain to achieve a washed out look.

If you have a look at these product and feel free to ask me any further questions, I am happy to help. I have quite a few pieces of G-Plan fresco furniture and I am tempted to restore them as they have a few scratches and slight water marks here and there.

Would you kindly give me a step by step process on how I would attempt this and which oils you would recommend? Many thanks…. If its minor repairs that you are carrying out, small scratches then you could have a look at the Morrells Wax Filler Sticks which are ideal for small scratches.

And for water marks, often a medium iron over a tea towel on the stain can draw out white rings caused by water marks, do take care when doing this and try a small test first to ensure no damage is caused and this would have to be done at you own risk.

You are welcome to email me some photos to see what the damage is if you feel the above is not suitable. Our email address is wood finishes. I have just purchased a weathered acacia table. But is there a finishing oil I can use to darken it. Please can you help me as I am so disappointed with the result. I am not sure if they are very helpful, also it was quite expensive. If the wood has no product currently on it then you can apply an oil, a clear oil will darken the wood and you can get an idea of how much by wiping a damp cloth over the surface.

A clear oil may well be enough to get the look that you want. Can you tell me if the table is for internal or external use and I will be able to recommend a finishing product that you can use. If you think the clear oil will not darken enough then you could consider a coloured oil to darken. Feel free to email me with a photo if that will help to wood finishes.

Hello and thank you for this informative article! Can you recommend the best finish for wooden coasters?

They have to be heat- and waterproof and finished in only two days. We have some good products for finishing coasters and you could have a look at Manns Extra Tough Interior Varnish. It is a water repellent and heat resistant varnish. We have carried out many tests with this product for liquid resistance and durability and it stands up well against most things as long as it is applied correctly. It has a quick drying time although a full cure is around 72 hours plus depending on conditions and temperature.

Test areas are always recommended and if you have any further questions please feel free to let me know. Please help we have an old farmhouse in France with a lot of oak beams showing all very old bur untreated which oil would it be best to use Many thanks for your help.

Thank you for your inquiry, we often recommend Fiddes Supreme Wax Polish for beams as they need little in the way of durability and more nourishment and many people like a natural look and feel to the beams. If you need something a bit more durable than a wax you could have a look at a Hard Wax Oil which will soak in to the surface of the wood and is easy to keep clean and maintain over time, requiring far less top ups than a wax may do.

If you have a look at the products and of course feel free to let me know if you have any further questions. Indoor kitchen table, made from reclaimed teak, untreated, has quite a deep grain. The seller sold me a tin of Briwax to put on it, however I have read complaints that water lifts the briwax and leaves ring marks on the table.

What should I use to best protect this wooden table top? I want a finish as close as possible to the raw wood, not shiney, maybe a bit darker if necessary. But critically I want to be able to use it without fear of marking the table.

I read your how to guide at the top of this page, Tung oil seems to be the best option but difficult to apply, so perhaps Teak oil would be best? Thank you for your inquiry. I would recommend taking a look at the Osmo Extra Thin.

It is a thinner oil than standard, which is ideal for dense woods such as teak that will only absorb a very small amount due to its tight grain. I would recommend a test area first to ensure that you like the finish that will be achieved, as this will darken the wood slightly.

This product is available in sample sizes also. I hope that helps and if you have any other questions please do not hesitate to get in touch. Having read lots of posts and viewed websites I am confused as to whether teak oil or danish oil is the way to go. Any light you can shed on this would be most appreciated.

I should say that because of space the bench will be in all weathers all year round. Thank you. Teak Oil or Danish Oil would both be suitable for your project and would need regular top ups through the year to maintain there protective benefits. I would not think you will need to remove yearly, more every few years to retreat.

Alternatively you could have a look at Osmo UV Protection Oil Extra which is much more durable than the other two and requires maintenance coats perhaps once a year or two, rather than every six months. And again this would not need removing, simply a clean and top up coat when you feel the wood needs it. What would you recommend for this? My father-in-law has suggested Danish oil, but I have also been recommended that Osmo would be a good bet?

The Polyx Oil will give a more durable finish than a Danish Oil for sure and will require less frequent maintenance coats. A test area should be done, first to ensure that there are no compatibility issues with the current treatment, and secondly to check that the wood is not saturated and will accept more. And also to ensure that you will like the finish to be achieved. This is not to say that the Danish Oil would not be suitable for your project because it certainly would and is a traditional treatment for wood finishing.

Wax is great for giving a beautiful finish, but not so great on the protection levels. Osmo Polyx Oil is a much more durable product that still leaves the wood looking and feeling natural. It does however require application to bare wood as it needs to penetrate into the surface and the wax will prevent or very much slow this process down. We also have some very helpful videos on our YouTube Channel with tips about application. And if you have any further questions please do not hesitate to let me know.

Hi there, I hope you can help me. I am looking to buy a large antique cherrywood dining table that has been varnished. Would it be possible to remove the varnish and oil the furniture instead? If so, can you recommend the best oil for the job? I would prefer the wood to look slightly darker too, if possible. It would be possible for you to remove the varnish with a product, such as the Paint Panther Paint and Varnish Remover from Barrettine.

It is a gel like substance that you can apply and leave for around 5 minutes. The varnish will bubble up to be scrapped off with a Filler Knife you should always try a test area first to ensure that it will work for your project. Once all the varnish is removed, you can give a light sand and clean ready for application of an oil. A clear oil such as Holzol Top Oil is a good option. Clear oils will darken the wood slightly and you can get an idea of how much by wiping a damp not wet cloth over the surface of the bare wood.

If you have a look at the products recommended and let me know if you have any further questions. I want a very natural look, like its not treated at all if possible. The exterior is oak, the drawers are ash with plywood inserts. The cutlery will only touch the plywood. I planned to use teak oil but not sure if it suitable for both the exterior and drawers.

Any advice would be great Thanks. A Hard Wax Oil is a good option. It is food safe and gives the wood great protection, whilst leaving it looking and feeling very natural. The clear will darken the wood slightly and it is advised to carry out a test area first to ensure that you will like the finish achieved. And the link above will take you the extra thin oil that would be suitable for harder woods such as Oak and I would expect the ml tin will cover approximately one and half to two meters squared.

If you have a read up of the products and let me know if you have any further questions. We have some hard wood gates that seem to have a coating that can peel off, hence water is seeping in, I would like to remove this coating and just stain and oil them to make it easier in maintaining in future years without having to go to an enormous amount of work.

As it is peeling and flaking it could be either a paint or a varnish and for stripping this you could consider Paint Panther Paint and Varnish Remover. And can be topped up annually or when you feel the wood needs it. If you have any further questions please do let me know. We have ordered an unfinished oak worktop. What oil is best to protect it and also darken the colour too? You could have a look at the Holzol Worktop Oil it is a clear oil that will protect the wood and give good water repellency.

It will darken the wood slightly for you and I would recommend a test area first to ensure that you are getting the finish that you want. If you have a read up on the product and we have a helpful video on worktops on our YouTube Channel and if you have any further questions please do let me know.

Hello, My husband made and installed very solid iroko window frames in our house about 30 years ago, as well as fencing. The bottoms have greyed, along with the fencing. Do you think tung will do the job? Yes the Tung Oil would be ideal for your project it allows the wood to be flexible in changing temperatures and climates and will help to keep the wood water repellent.

Water ingress is the biggest problem when it comes to wood and so regular maintenance will help to prevent damage. There is very little UV protection in this oil however so wood may continue to silver a little over time. We just build pine book shelves. I bought tung oil and put it in the side.

It looks the same though it probably gives protection. What will happen if we did not use tung or any other oil on the pine hook shelves?

What is the worst thing that can happen? I am asking because we like how they look and smell raw without any oil. Thank you very much. You may find over time, depending on the environment that they are in that there is some warping, although this could equally not happen, it would be the result of changes of temperature or moisture levels through the year.

And the wood may mark easily with for example cup stains or moisture. Or finger prints can mark the wood also. These would be difficult to clean off and may need sanding or degreasing. Dust and dirt will potentially be difficult to clean off also, but not impossible, it can collect and accumulate in the grain also which could be slightly harder to clean off.

So essentially all of the things that the oil protects from are what the wood would be susceptible to. Any of these changes, marks or stains however could be very minimal if at all based on how you use the shelves over time.

Feel free to let me know if you have any further questions. I have recently had some rimu board placed along the top of my bath which has a shower over it.

The builder has finished the rimu board with Danish Oil. Firstly, will the oil protect the wood against everyday showers with hot water? Secondly, the wood has been nailed in place; if I go over it again wood and nails with the oil, will this keep it waterproof where the nails have entered the wood?

It would be fair to say that most oils give a fair to good level of water repellency, but no product, even varnish is fully waterproof. So any standing water or excessive exposure to water can result in stains or marks. Refreshing the oil regularly will help maintain the durability and ensuring good coverage around nailed areas, but any exposed wood will get damaged by water penetration.

Do let me know if you have any further questions. Hi Sam, Found your very interesting website and thought it best to ask my questions here. Thanks, Janet. Thank you for your inquiry, unfortunately you can not apply a preservative over the oil as the oil will prevent penetration. You can wait for a couple of years for the oil to wear away and then lightly sand to remove any left over, and then treat with the preservative.

Or if you really want to apply the preservative then sand back now and start again. Let me know if you have any other questions. I have recently purchased a house with hardwood windows that are 40years old I will be painting them grey externally with a opaque osmo product.

Internally I have rubbed them back to bear wood and was going to use a an osmo oil which is clear to show the wood off. However the oils such as osmo say for external use only? Could you recommend the best oil for my windows internally. Also should I have any concerns about the bathroom area that has excessive condensation build up when using an oil?

An interior oil from Osmo is the Polyx Oil. This is a clear oil that will protect and enhance the look of the wood, darkening it slightly. It is available in sample sizes and I would recommend a test area first. For the bathroom I would also recommend a first coat of the Osmo Wood Protector , which will prevent the wood from going brittle over time.

Condensation can cause issues if the wood is not maintained well but the Osmo ranges are very good protective treatments. Have a read up of the products and let me know if you have any questions. It is very easy to apply the solution; it can be applied with help of brush or clean lint free rag.

As it is easy to apply, many projects can be finished in a short period of time. Consequently, it has become a good choice of woodworkers. NOTE: It is not allowed to send this item through air mode. Surface mode is enabled for the same. Thus, shipping will be done through surface. Remove any existing finishes with sandpaper or stripper.

Prepare bare wood for staining by sanding in the direction of the grain. Begin with grit sandpaper and progress though , and grits. Before staining, remove all sanding dust and dirt with a vacuum, tack cloth, or rag dampened with mineral spirits. For grease and glue, remove with a rag dampened with mineral spirits. Allow for longer dry times during damp and humid conditions. Mix or shake material thoroughly to ensure that any settled pigment is redispersed before application.

Stir occasionally during use. Apply a test sample on a small inconspicuous area before proceeding with the entire job. Apply one coat of stain liberally with a brush or clean lint free rag. Allow to penetrate for minutes then remove excess by wiping with a rag in the direction of the grain.

Removal of all excess material is essential to ensure proper dry time and proper adhesion of topcoat. Product Code: Availability: Out of stock. Add to wishlist. Add to Compare. Have a question? Your Name.

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