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watco-salad-bowl-finish-12 Some times, you just need more coats of finish It does not store any personal data. I would recommend using an exterior wood oil or decking oil for the best results. Charlotte said:. Maybe this "food safe finish". Install the app.

In the race to make it cheaper and faster, industrial coating makers have cut back the oil and increased the other ingredients which are toxic. What is the best oil for red oak flooring? I have new sections and old sections and will be sanding down old sections to bare wood in one room. Can I just apply oil over the old finish to freshen it up and skip the sanding?

Osmo Polys Oil is great for floors. Danish oil is preferred for redwood. So Watco Danish is for you. I have a piece of furniture that I am the fourth generation owner. We have been told that it is Cherry Wood but not confirmed. The piece is very large. My family always called it the Press.

When we were moving it into my home, it took 6 grown men to get it in. My problem is that we burn with wood exclusively and I am seeing some stress to the Press. There is a finish on the piece, but I have no idea what was used. Also, I assume that I will need to oil both inside and out if possible, correct? Any help you can give me would be great. Definitely, you need some oil for antique furniture.

That said, I am still not confident in making a decision and would love your advice. I have an only wooden floor, hardwood but not sure what kind. It will be sanded down to its natural state. What I am looking for is an oil that will provide some tint, but preferably on the golden yellow side, preferably not dark or reddish. We will be doing this one section at a time, thinking that we will go with the wood pattern around the perimeter first.

From what I gathered from your post, I should use boiled linseed oil, the first listed. As it will not give a darker coloring and is safe applying indoors. As for tint, first, try to apply it on some small inconspicuous area. I am building an outdoor dining table and will be making the top out of red cedar. What would be the best oil to use for this project, I want to make sure I use something water and UV resistant. Or would I be better off with a different product all together.

I just want to keep the natural look of the cedar without color additives. Oil or sealer would be a good choice but they add a bit of tint to the wood. Instead, try some exterior clear polyurethane such as Helmsman.

Urethanes create a protective layer over the wood, unlike oils and sealers which penetrate the wood, but urethanes are clear. I am looking into turning an old antique english manogany end side table cabinet into a vanity sink. I want to protect the wood from damage when people are washing their hands. What would you suggest for this? Sunnyside oil is well suited for antique wooden pieces, check it out. It depends. As I understand it, you need a finish for dry wood, so oil is the best option here.

Varnishes and polyurethanes are designed for different purposes. From my reading Cosmo top oil seems to be the ticket. Am I getting it? Hi there, I am making hot plates from slices of logs. Looking for the best finish to apply that will hold up to hot temperatures, a casserole dish coming out of the oven, a pot off the stove- etc.

Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, D. My dad used to always use lemon oil on our teak furniture. Any thoughts on this? I have two teak side tables with glass inserts on the top that I have cleaned and am about to sand a bit on the top frame but am debating what to use on it to finish it. Am currently looking at tung oil. Do you have a citrus oil you like to use as a thinner for the tung oil? Lemon oil is a cleaning solution and polish rather than finish in most cases.

Hi I have some very old furniture that is starting to crack along the grain lines. Some of this furniture is bare wood, some has a lacquered finish. A friend of mine suggested I get teak oil and a big syringe, and squirt the teak oil into the cracks weekly over a period of months to bring back deep moisture to the wood.

To the best of my knowledge the various pieces are made of European oak, rosewood, mahagony, and elm from China, and mahogany from the Philippines. Recently sanded old style pine kitchen cupboard had 3 layers of paint Do not want to paint Can you suggest a good oil to finish it please. There are many options available for your situation but I recommend Watco Danish Oil since it has many colors you can choose from to enrich the color of your cupboard.

I am purchasing a kitchen island that is perfect for a bathroom vanity. I would like to make the counter top a darker wood dark walnut and the bottom half white, it will have a vessel sink.

If you chose stain you would also need a sealer because stain colors the wood but not waterproofs by itself. Speaking of oils, go for Danish Oil , it got many colors for walnut. Choose Sunnyside. I have a wooden stairway, not sure which kind of wood. Maybe oak. Which oil would you recommend regarding the high foot traffic? Osmo Polyx is an oil specially designed for wooden floors. Try it. Great info!! I have a patio set made of Acacia wood. Have had it a year. It has had a polyurethane treatment at the factory.

It looks dry and I want to maintain it. Is there an oil I can apply without sanding and that has a low odor? You can use linseed oil on the wood, the only downside is it takes a while to dry and will need a few layers.

There are other oils out there too such as danish and teak oil as well as tung oil that just needs a light sanding in between coats.

I have a wooden swing I am refinishing made by my father 20 years ago. He used cherry wood. From my research, I thought tung oil would be best for cherry, but boiled Linseed for the cedar.

Is this correct? I thought about using oil and then using spar urethane on top. Could I mix the 2 oils? What would be your recommendation to finish this. What you found from your research should work. Both tung oil and linseed oil are great to use on wood. Spar varnish is a really good finish to use. I would recommend a spar varnish by Minwax or TotalBoat.

Any help will be gratefull. You can oil the jarrah hardwood sleepers. I would recommend using an exterior wood oil or decking oil for the best results. This teak oil by Minwax or this Australian timber oil by Cabot is a good option.

Thank you Donny. Both of these oils are great options. Most people use mineral oil to keep a natural look to the wood. If you use too much mineral oil you might get a slight gloss look. Danish oil might darken the wood a little unless you get a natural color Danish oil or a color close to the wood you have.

In your case, I would go with Mineral oil but both would most likely achieve what you want. Hi William, We just purchased a used draw leaf table made in Denmark. And any pointers to determining whether it might be teak or white oak? To tell what type of wood it is look at the grain. Teak wood usually has a straight grain that looks like streaks or lines of darker color.

If you really want to know what type of wood it is, you can buy a white oak test kit. As far as trying to bring out the color in the wood without it yellowing or darkening too much, I would suggest using tung oil, teak oil, or even danish oil. Tung oil is considered to be the finest and most natural wood finish but it leaves a wet wood look. Teak oil is suitable for both exterior and interior surfaces.

It beautifies the wood and protects the wood from sunlight and water. Danish is the fastest to dry and can protect the wood against chemical damage, heat exposure, and surface scratches and stains.

All of these oils are good, it just depends on what look you want and protection. Looking to refinish yellow cedar window frames.

They are outside and by the ocean salt water. Any recommendations? Hi Lisa, to repeat the finish it is good to know what the old finish is. For example, if it is a varnish and you want to apply oil, it is good to remove the old varnish beforehand or to re-apply the varnish on the same base of course if it has worked well so far.

If the windows are treated with oil, you can simply apply a little. Teak oil like this is very suitable for your case like this one by Star Brite , which is a cleaning kit with which you can restore the wood if necessary , works well for both teak and other tree species.

In addition its resistant to saltwater can be used in a boat above the waterline. I am a bit undecided on how to treat my wenge bathroom cabinet — it has cracked along the veins and looks like it could use some love, but I am afraid to apply an oil that is going to leave it shinny. Similar to Alexa here-above, I have a black wooden credenza — very grainy and matte — which has been cleaned with some sort of detergent maybe windex?

Is Osmo the way to go? Yes, Osmo is a good brand proven over time. This oil has a matte finish so it will not make the surface shiny. For a black wooden credenza after washing well you can apply oil with black color and then transparent top oil for better protection. What would you recommend using please? Hi Rebecca. I also like the natural look of the furniture, I congratulate you for wanting to keep your table in its natural look. You can use oil no. It also gives good protection.

It is good to apply periodically or at the first signs of wear. What would be the best to use? Hi Barbara, you can use oil number one on the list. Boiled linseed oil adheres well to old coatings, renews them, and gives good protection to the furniture.

I have a Restoration Hardware dinning room table made out of distressed pine. What kind of oil should I use? Thanks Kathy. Hi Kathy. This oil will do a great job it has very good resistance and as we know the dining table is subjected to a large load. For an excellent result, you must remove the old coating to wood, sand to smoothness P and apply the Oil at least two coats. If you want a different color you can apply oil with color and then protect with the oil mentioned above.

If you do not intend to remove the old coating, this oil can be applied to natural oils or wax. So if the old coating is different the oil of the eighth is not a suitable option.

You can refresh an old oil-based coating with boiled linseed oil , it also provides good protection but needs to be renewed more often. Hi Tucker. You probably used raw linseed oil, it really has an unpleasant odor and dries slowly. Once it dries and the room is ventilated, the smell will gradually disappear. Under normal conditions, drying takes days but there are other factors that affect the drying time: — how thick the applied layer is — room temperature and ventilation — what is the basis for applying raw wood or coated wood — Is the oil diluted?

Provide good conditions for drying, ventilate well and throw away the application rags so that they are not in the room be careful the rags are flammable and soon you will not have an unpleasant odor.

Hi Dan, you can apply Sunnyside oil to your floor will protect the wood from water and pollution. For low traffic floors, it would do a good job.

Keep in mind there are a few flaws: Flaxseed oil is not the best for floors because of no high wear resistance and hard coating. If the floor is exposed to heavy traffic, you may need to renew the coating frequently. Until it dries, it has a slightly unpleasant odor and also dries relatively slowly, it is good to ventilate the room well.

Another option is to apply oil suitable for wooden floors such as this one by OSMO. It has greater hardness and durability. Or an idea on the next best way to treat the wood and not have a lot left over. Thanks for your help! I would recommend using turpentine oil and linseed oil like this one by Sunnyside. If you are on a budget use the above product on a spray bottle that is nonreactive to chemicals like this one by HARRIS , which is great.

Just make sure to clean your carving of all the algae and detritus if any before applying the coat. Within a minute or two, you will notice that finish is actually seeping out of the bottom of the board. This is exactly what we want. At this point, I usually set board on its side and allow it to dry overnight.

I do this times with a light sanding in between each session. You are now starting to develop a film. One last wipe with a clean cloth and call it DONE. So how does a board like this fare in the kitchen? There are two main concerns here: safety and maintenance. A butcher block treated this way will resist water all day long. In fact, on my boards, water tends to evaporate faster than it absorbs.

Mineral oil boards will actually take on moisture much more readily. Adding wax to your mineral oil can certainly help in this area if thats the route you want to go. Now the fact that it is so water resistant is a major plus in terms of sanitation. Remember that the bacteria like the moisture. So the less moisture in the board, the better. So how about knife marks? Well like with any board, knife marks will happen. So what happens to my boards?

They get knicked up. They get dulled a little more in the middle where the most action occurs. But after about 18 straight months of usage, my cutting board looks pretty darn good. Check out the pics below. Now if there were a thick film on that board and that film were to crack, the moisture would certainly seep in and create problems. In fact after 18 months of that type of abuse you would probably expect the finish to start flaking off or exhibit more physical damage than what you see.

But when a knife produces a deep cut on my board, it just cuts into varnish-filled pores. There is nothing to flake off. And I suspect that in another month or so, I will take the board back in the shop, give the top a nice thorough sanding, reapply a light coat or two of diluted varnish monitoring how much it takes up , and the board will look brand new.

What kind of maintenance does a mineral oil board require? Monthly, and possibly more frequently if used heavily. I am by no means trying to discourage people from using mineral oil. After all, its the classic cutting board finish. Use whatever floats your boat. Personally, I have had great success with my method and will continue to use it. I did look at the MSDS and although that I am not clear about it, I see that most of it indeed is toxic chemicals, and I am not sure how they say it's food safe finish?

Greg Norman. They said I was not wiping off the excess well enough. I tried doing a better job of wiping it down after flooding and waiting a bit. I did get better results on some bowls but no matter what I tried I still had some that looked similar to yours. I now only use walnut oil on food contact items and never have any problems.

Roger, i appreciate your insight and the tip. The main issue for using this product was that to put on a finish that's food safe and FDA approved. I have used this product in the past on Mesquite and Bradford Pear that Bill can attest to it, since he is in the same general area that I live.

What I was trying to figure out was why is it doing it on Walnut and is there any more preparation that was necessary that I failed to do. I followed the can's instruction and applied the finish directly on the raw wood which now I realize form above posts that I made a mistake and did not seal the wood before applying the finish. I also, noticed that it was best to put it on and wife off the excess and come back wipe it again until I build up a nice finish.

Teh direction on this oil finish did not say so. When talking to the manufacturer the rep could not tell me in what environment they did the test before the write up the directions. The other issue was that I was not too sure about it being a film.

The misleading ithe direction of the can says that apply to bare wood. Michael Lyle. I am wondering what you are going to eat out of a walnut bowl.!!!!! Not trying to bea wise guy Maybe this "food safe finish". Next question: Have you used any sanding sealer? Clifton C. Michael, I use my bowls for any and everything. All the things on your list and then some. I throw them in a sink full of hot soapy water scrub, rinse and drip dry.

I ran one thru the dishwasher because every one said not to, figured if it got ruined, I knew where to get another. It got fuzzy so I re-sanded I agree with your point, I don't think we are putting ourselves in danger, but with all the things we make, the finish has to match the piece. I don't mind a lacquered bowl that sits on a shelf, I just know not to throw it in with the utility bowls. Where was I going with this? I can't remember. All yer cash goes for Tung oil.

An you cant afford real dishwater safe plates Bacon and eggs???? Well I would make sure I rinsed soon after breakfast I do not mean to offend As to affording real plates, I've been called a cheap bast! I prefer "Thrifty" yea, Thrifty that's what I am I will stick to the walnut oil, not nearly as many things can go wrong.

Part of that also, is that I won't put anything that I can't eat, out of the can, on some thing I am going to eat out of. All of the solvents are supposed to turn into 'inert ingredients' when they are done curing. I was chatting with some one at a show once, and she was sensitive to those solvents. She said what is left isn't always 'inert', and she could react to some of them. Other than that, no clue as to why you are getting that type of reaction to that finish.

Some times differing grain orientations can cause darker and lighter spots, but the grain in these seems to be fairly even. Some times, you just need more coats of finish As for eating out of bowls and plates, I have eaten just about anything that fits onto my plates and bowls for years, from soup to BBQ, to stir fry, and had no problems.

I would not put hot wet foods on walnut as the heat and moisture can draw that walnut wood flavor into what you eat. You do need to clean your bowls and plates after using. Main thing to avoid is food build up on your bowls. That is what can go sour, and once that happens, about the only thing you can do to get rid of that smell is to burn it I use a plastic scrubby, and hot water.

I seldom use soap though it doesn't hurt your bowls. I have been using the same plate for maybe 3 years now. This one has a CA glued in knot and I wanted to see how it held up. I am getting some small chipping out of the CA glue, but it still is holding up well.

It has been at least a year since I oiled it last Dean Center. Phillip, if you're having a problem with a walnut bowl that you didn't have with mesquite and Bradford pear, perhaps it's the difference in the grain of the wood.

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