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Snip the end off of your caulk tube with scissors and squeeze to get the caulk flowing. While squeezing, run the tip of the tube along the seams and cracks, leaving caulk behind as you drag the tube.

Wet your finger and drag along the seam to remove the excess. Wipe away the caulk that accumulates on a paper towel in between swipes with your finger. If any caulk crawls up the backsplash or down onto the countertop, wipe it away with a clean paper towel. Allow the caulk plenty of time to dry. It can take anywhere from one day to one week for the caulk to fully set, so keep this in mind when planning on the timing to stick your tiles to the backsplash.

This part can wait until right before you intend to begin sticking tiles. When selecting a design keep in mind that the more intricate the cut, the longer it will take to cut. Also, if the tile has a lot of empty spaces, there might not be much vinyl to hold onto when applying which can cause some trouble, too. It might help you to decide on a pattern. Select your tile and then resize to 5. Copy and paste the sized tile 8x for each 12 x 24 mat you have and want to cut on one after another.

So if you have 2 mats, have 16 squares in your Design Space work area. If your current fine-point blade has a decent amount of wear on it, you might want to change to a new one. I started with a fresh blade and cut all of my tiles without needing to replace it which I was super happy with!

Keeping your vinyl on the roll, apply your vinyl backing side down onto your StandardGrip Mats. While unrolling the vinyl, apply gentle pressure along the center of the vinyl as you tack it down to the mat. Using your TrueControl knife and a ruler , cut the vinyl on the mat to come away from the roll. Use your hands to smooth any bubbles out. Depending on the tile pattern you choose you can either have no weeding necessary or a lot of weeding.

After applying both designs to my actual backsplash I decided that this one was too fussy for the look I was going for and saved myself some weeding time! In order to move these elements over we will have to use Transfer Tape. This adds time and cost to the project.

Luckily, Transfer Tape comes on Bulk Rolls, too! I suggest starting at a corner of your backsplash where is the most difficult to reach. For me this was behind my kitchen sink that is on an angle. Starting in that first corner stick your tile so that the side runs along the seam where the 2 corners meet and the bottom runs along the counter.

I wanted small lines and so mine are pretty close to the bottom and the corner. As I learned, the best way to work is not in a totally straight line while tacking down your tiles. Instead a tile and then one to the side and one above. When necessary, you can continue in a straight line, but stair-stepping the application makes it less likely that your lines will go wonky. When you get to an outlet, apply your tile as much as possible to the backsplash surrounding the outlet.

Use your knife with a sharp blade to carefully trim away any vinyl that sits on top of the box. To trim these hold the vinyl taut and slide your TrueControl knife along the edge of the Formica to trim.

A sharp blade works best. It might be necessary when meeting new corners to cut tile to fit. Stick the tile as much as possible and slide the knife along the corner, or what have you. If convenient, use a small ruler to help cut a straight line. When you get to the top edge of your backsplash, just beneath the upper cabinets or appliances you will likely need to use the same size tile over and over.

Pre-cut these tiles with scissors to the correct size prior to applying them to save time. If you do crack an outlet cover, they are inexpensive less than a dollar, for most sizes and can be purchased at stores like Walmart or a hardware store. The third photo up is where I stopped after about 4 hours of work. I had only applied 13 full tiles and 2 half tiles and I had ruined a full cutting mat of tiles.

My problem was static electricity made the tiles difficult to manage sticking down right where I wanted them to be. Several had to be scraped away after sticking to the wall wrong and hopefully not another tile, too. The best thing I could find to combat static electricity is to remove the tiles from the backing and cutting mat and gently tack the tiniest bit of the corner of the tile to something and allow it to hang.

For me, I was able to hang 8 tiles to my upper cabinets like you see here. After about 15 minutes the static would have dissipated. To test you can place your hand close to the tile. Allow it another 10 minutes or so and try again. Now I know this seems like it would cause considerable delays. I promise! And my dad is the opposite of Mikey. I blog, craft, sew, paint, glue things onto other things, cover things in glitter and basically living the dream.

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