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nova-g3-reversible-chuck-6r NOVA G3 Chuck • Chuck Key (pinion) • Woodworm Screw • Jaw Set (50mm) w/M6x6 c/Sunk Screws • Allen Key (4mm) • Allen Key (3mm) • Instruction Manual Features standard on all NOVA chucks: • Quality Materials. • Precision Machining. • Common Accessory Jaw Fixing Profile – compatible across all NOVA chucks and accessories. • High Tech Precision Composite Jaw Slides. • Special Woodturning Dovetail Profile on Jaws. • Auto Safety Stop Feature. Jaw slides can’t protrude past the chuck body. •  2-Year Warranty Additional G3 Features & Benefits • Reversible Feature. Anti-spindle lock ensures the chuck will stay securely mounted during the forward and reverse turning applications. • Dedicated 1"8TPI thread. • Small, Compact Design. Notice: Only use authentic Nova accessories on your Nova chuck. Using non-genuine Nova accessories and copies of accessories could lead to operation and safety issues and will void the warranty. Nova accessories are designed for use only on Nova chucks. Do not use on any other chuck. What's Included. (1) Nova G3 Chuck with 1'' x 8-TPI Threading (1) Set of 50mm/2" jaws (1) Set of mm/4'' jaws (JSN) (1) Set of Pin Jaws (JSPIN) (1) Safe Lock™ Woodworm screw (1) Instruction Manual (1) T-handle chuck key (1) Set of fastenings (1) Storage case. Specifications. More. The Nova G3 Reversible chuck with the standard jaws work great on my Jet VS lathe. The 2 inch jaws grip extremely well and have not required retightening at all, but I do still check to be safe. I gave the chuck and jaws 5 stars because the product performs as described and appears to be very high quality. I'm not a fan of the shorter travel range on most of Nova's jaws but I was already aware of that problem. I went ahead and bought a set of Pin jaws to cover smaller turning and for gripping inside pepper mills to avoid using a jamb chuck, and I plan to buy a larger set fo. All of mine except one has been within Teknatool specifications of. Personal Information First Name. Click to expand Kind regards, Rich. Install the app.

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Reset My Password. Go back. However, I don't find occasionally changing jaws to be that onerous so I don't see the big allure of quick-change jaws. Justin Stephen said:. Joe Greiner. I don't reccomend tommy bars to beginners. I like the hex key in the vicmarc. In fairness to tommy bar chucks, Few things in woodturning are clear cut Tommy bar vs key is one of them. With the spindle locked, tommy bar chucks are easier and faster to operate than keyed chucks.

One hand operates the bar to open and close the jaws with a push or pull and one holds the work piece. Adding a longer shaft on the bar gives an effortless positive lock with a push and quick release with a pull.

Of course if you don't have an easy to use spindle lock you can't use the tommy bar chucks easily. The statement that a good Nova G3 Chuck Uk Zone metal Nova G3 Wood Turning Lathe Chuck System chuck costs "a couple thousand dollars" is not true.

The chuck that comes standard with Grizzly's cheapest lathe has a measured runout of about 0. The issue is with the inaccuracy of screw-on chucks.

Even if the threads on the chuck are perfect, the threads on the spindle of your lathe may not be. In my experience the screw-on wood chucks have several thousandths of run-out. I get different numbers depending on which lathe I measure -- different results for my Woodfast compared to my JET If you want accuracy on smaller pieces mount your work on a morse taper.

I'm a big fan of Vicmarc chucks and recommend them. Steve Arnold. I started out with a G3 chuck, but wasn't very happy with it because I don't think it held pieces as securely as it should have.

I ended up selling it on eBay and buying a Vicmarc , and I think it's the best decision I could have made. In my opinion, there's no comparison between the two chucks. Last edited: Sep 12, Would like to thank everyone for your input. I have started looking at Vicmarc and Oneway chucks. Again Thank you. I have 2 Vicmarc VM chucks, one of which is about 17 years old and is still in use, never a problem.

The newer one operates in reverse as far as tightening and jaw numbering. This is a little bit of a pain though. I do not like the Super nova, it seems to require tightening and does not run as true as the Vicmark chucks. Fadi Zeidan. Hey guys, I own two G3s purchased one, Got 2 with 50mm jaws. I am having problems with bigger pieces 10x5 slipping sometimes, I'm sure part of it is my spigots, but works fine with wide but not so deep, or small pieces.

I was thinking of getting bigger jaws, 70mm or mm when I started thinking maybe I should get new chuck as well and make it permanent chuck with that size jaw so started reading.

Would Nova Chucks For Sale Malaysia vicmarc be too big for 12" lathe? Some said on other forums that it would be. I have Delta midi lathe. Also, should I get 70mm or mm for bigger pieces? Is there a rule of thumb? A Vicmarc will hang the work further out from the spindle putting more stress on the bearings and the spindle of lathe not designed for big work.

Plus the 'is quite hefty for a small lathe. The nova jaws have a tiny bead some call it a mini dovetail at the top of the jaws. However the Nova jaws should be able to hold anything you can turn on your lathe. I make this scraping with the point of a skew with the skew flat on the rest. This is not quite as big as the bead on the jaws so that the bead fits tightly in the groove. Also I make a flat where the tops of the jaws meet the wood.

For a lathe with a 10 or 12 inch swing, either the Vicmarc or the Oneway Talon chuck would be great. The thing I like about Oneway chucks is the profiled jaws which have a significant advantage over serrated jaws and dovetail jaws when it comes to the range of tenon diameters that they will grip with with less marring and greater contact area.

Oneway also sells dovetail jaws for their chucks. However, nothing beats dovetail jaws for holding a tenon or a mortise that is close to the perfect circle diameter and I really like the solid construction of Vicmarc chucks. I like the thread adapters on Oneway chucks for their precise alignment and because they do not extend very far from the chuck body.

The chuck key can be used to remove the chuck from the spindle with worrying about the adapter slipping. Changing the adapter can be a trying experience. I also like the Vicmarc thread adapter for its precise alignment with the body, but I don't like that it extends so far out the back of the chuck body.

Vicmarc does offer direct thread chucks in a couple thread sizes which is my preferred way to go. I have almost no experience using Nova or other chucks. Thanks guys, I will shop around for vicmarc or talon, each seem to have its fans and both are good quality.

Should I get the bigger jaws, or stick with the standard ones that comes with the chuck. I originally was thinking of getting the 3" or 4" jaws for bigger pieces.

I have turned 20" bowls with a Vicmarc I love my Vicmarc chucks. I'm not a fan of the Nova chucks when it comes to holding power. Don't know if you have been taught how to make a proper tenon.

That goes a long way toward making any chuck work. The tenon should not bottom out on the chuck body. A tenon should have a square shoulder that sits on top of the chuck jaws. This gives 2 points of reference to keep the piece from rocking. A straight shaft stuck in chuck jaws can vibrate loose due to the forces pushing the wood. If you have a shoulder on the tenon it resists this racking of the piece. The tenon should also be shaped to match the jaws.

A Vicmarc has dovetail jaws so the tenon should be dovetail shaped. Other chucks may be different. It usually strips the wood and goes flying when it happens. I would thing the tenon shape is the issue. My nova jaws are not dovetail jaws. A dovetail tenon would not hold in my nova jaws.

They are straight jaws with a small bead at the top inside of the jaw. That is the profile I try to duplicate with my nova jaws. A straight walled tenon can work in the nova jaws most of the time. Making a recess for the little bead at the top,of the jaws I proves the holding.

I use the 2 jaws for bowls up to about 14" 18" and bigger I use the 3 jaws. I do use bigger jaws for bigger bowls but usually only 3". I have up to 5" but my bowls are usually deeper and simply don't have a foot area large enough for 4 or 5" jaws.

What cut are you using when the bowl dismounts. Are you still roughing. What tool are you using. A bowl gouge used properly doesn't apply a lot of pressure on the bowl. Because of that a smaller tenon will work better. I find new turners tend to force the cut and push on the bevel. Both of these will put undue pressure against the wood. The Nova jaws I have are not dovetail or straight This drawing is a bit exaggerated For a rough turned bowl the tenon should be 2.

If you put a dovetail in these jaws the grip will be on the wide part of the dovetail and the tenon can slide up in th jaws until it hits the lip.

Then it will likely break out. The idea is to make a tiny groove for the lip at the top of the jaws to lock into.

Last edited: Oct 4, View attachment The idea is to make a tiny groove for the lip at the top of the jaws to lock into. Tenons usually work much better for bowls. You want to avoid Tear out on the tenon. I cut all my tenons with a spindle gouge which leaves a clean surface. Newer turners are often better off using a scraper or even a parting tool to make the tenon.

It has to be sharp and the surface has to be clean. Can't have torn fibers in the tenon. Some soft woods you just have to use a spindle gouge. You can use the point of a sharp skew flat on it side to make the little recess for the lip. Make it a bit small. The little groove for the lip can also be cut with a spindle gouge but it is a bit tricky. A bit off of the OT but my take on Nova jaws. I do not cut a recess for the lip on the 50mm jaws when forming a tenon.

On mine the "lip" is only mm deep and max 4mm long; I just cut the tenon straight as per the instructions and let the lip dig in. Probably no more than the depth of serrations on a serrated jaw? See pic. You may want to look at the 70mm jaws They also give you a lot of flexibility in that you may rough with the 70's and when second turning true up and finish with the 50's if you want a smaller base.

For larger items 10"? Gerald Lawrence. Fadi Zeidan said:. That is correct, clamping down, it is not true dovetail, expansion wise it is as bill said, dovetailed and I've used both. I think it is a combination, I'm not matching the shape of the jaws and overdoing the side of the walls, and as John said, I'm making forced, bigger cuts than I need because sometimes it is tearing the Nova G3 30th Anniversary Woodturning Chuck Bundle Os wood around the jaws and I have problems remounting it.

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