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marking-knife-sketch-up Рассказываем о самых полезных плагинах Скетчап: Compo Spray, Fredo Scale, Edge Tools, CleanUp, Slicer и других.  Коллекция плагинов SketchUp. От ускорения работы до параметризации модели. Настя Овсянникова. Время чтения: 15 мин. Каждый, кто в первый раз открывает SketchUp, удивляется простоте программы: минимальное количество рабочих панелей и только основные функции для моделирования. Уроки Скетчап для начинающих. SketchUp Pro RePack на русском. Что это за программа SketchUp Pro — программа для 3D моделирования. Позволяет создавать относительно простые объекты, такие как: архитектурные строения, предметы мебели, интерьера и т.д. Активно используется для создания трехмерных объектов в таких сферах деятельности, как архитектура, строительство и проектирование, стоматология, создание мобильных и компьютерных игр. Knife hinges are also a hallmark of good craftsmanship. Precisely laying out their mortises takes patience and a steady hand. You’ll be using some classic hand tools, such as a marking knife, a marking gauge, and a few sharp chisels. There are no short cuts, and practically no room for adjustment once the mortises are cut. Knife hinges go undercover when installed—you can barely see them. They’re perfect for the type of cabinets whose hardware shouldn’t distract from the piece’s design or the beauty of the wood. I cut a short pin from an aluminum rod to length and used cyanoacrylate CA glue to affix it to the through-hole. By Christopher Schwarz. Thanks for jarking tip, Chris! Using the blade as a template, I located and drilled the bolt and nut through-holes together. You should be able to control the knife without a death grip. I am searching marking knife sketch up good drill bits as well.

Made a marking knife just like it from an auto leaf spring. Knifemakers use leaf springs quite often. High carbon steel with chromium. Never thought of using it as a skew chisel, thanks!

I bought an old 7 too quickly at the yard sale on my lunch break. When I got it home I found the iron to be snapped in half long ways. I been rolling around the idea of making a marking knife from the two halves. I think you just pushed me over the edge.

If you try carving a circle with a gouge and then with a chisel you can feel how much smoother it is with a curved edge. I use Colt brad point bits, mostly. Nothing, in my view is more accurate and smooth cutting as these bits. I got the single-edge version of this a while back but the gentle curve from one side down the bevel contrasting with the flat straight-edge on the back of the knife gave this optical illusion of the knife tip being bent over whenever I used it and it drove me nuts so I swapped it out for that stanley knife Paul Sellers uses and which my dad used to use a lifetime ago so that was a nice symmetry.

Same steel as their excellent plane irons. I use them very often with a small drill brace with a hex shaft and they make holes in fir without tearout. I made a mistake in the previous post. I thought I would have deleted the word.

I just bought an old screwdriver at a garage sale for 50 cents and shaped the point on a grinder, works fine, I use it for just about everything, an old busted up chisel would work too — just shape the tip how you want it. Fine-tools in Germany carry an extended range of both.

I use my in lieu of a router plane on tenon cheeks and dovetailed dados as well. The single- and doublebevelled version cutting knives of the same type are all I use now for cutting and whitling duties. Fairly inexpensive. Then I worry that my saw will dive into the knife line and screw things up. Easy to see, easy to fix and with a thick enough sharp lead, you can extend it deep within a narrow pin.

Always up for suggestions or help! Only suggestion I can think of is going with a very light pressure. As light as you can. Then with the next pass go slightly heavier. The initial shallow cut helps guide the blade. Also I have found softwoods more challenging than hardwoods because of the hard and soft aspects of the growth rings.

Thanks Michael, I think that should help. Congrats on finding your knife. I searched for quite a while before I found one that I liked. I tried a couple of expensive ones as well. I am searching for good drill bits as well.

Keep us posted if you find them. Thanks for the tip, Richard. They are not laminated but they are made of good, old Sheffield steel. Their unlaminated carbon steel blades are good too, easily sharpened to an impressively sharp edge. I ordered the same knife recently and am pondering whether to make a leather sheath for it. How would you guys store this thing, both to protect yourself and the brittle tip?

About the drill bit…The center bit might fit the bill, although AFAIK they can only be used with a brace because of the square shaft, so not suitable for eggbeaters. The others all have uses in the shop.

Since I use it for everything from cutting clippings from news papers to whittling pegs, it is always in my pocket. I had one that was broken, so I turned a handle for it on a small lathe I have, then ground it back with a grinder.

Nice steel that sharpens great. I did a crude single edge fairly pointed right down to the hole in the middle of the flag. I even use it for a skew chisel from time to time. You can also Marking Knife Sketch Model use epoxy glue. After the glue was cured, I hand sanded the pin flush. With the strips bolted together, I outlined the shape on the face of the handle.

Since the grain ran in the same direction for the strips, I shaped them with a spokeshave without any worries of tear-out. See the sidebar below for some tips on using a spokeshave. If you choose to use rasps for shaping, ease the edges with abrasives, a small plane or a cornering tool. Depending on the grain direction, use push or pull strokes to shape the profile on the handle from both ends.

To maintain the angle of cut, slightly press down at the front to steady and guide the tool as you push or pull. I set the blade at a slight angle to the sole so I can vary the depth of cut by re-positioning the spokeshave rather than re-setting the cutter. A dull blade, tricky grain or pressing too hard on the heel of the shave can cause chattering. Skew the shave slightly across the direction of travel to reduce this.

During your push or pull strokes, keep steady pressure on the toe without hesitation to the end; this is not the time for timidity. After dry fitting, I disassembled the knife and signed and dated the inside faces of the handle. I applied a few coats of boiled linseed oil on all surfaces of the handle with light sanding between coats.

I cut a short section out of a spine clip to make the blade protector and completed the assembly. When the time comes to resharpen or replace the blade, the owner of one of your knives will be reminded of what an exquisite tool you have given him or her!

Now you're ready to hand out your gifts. But did you Marking Knife Sketch Line just make a batch of fine layout tools or a bunch of box cutters? It depends, of course, on whether you are giving the knife to a woodworker or someone who knows little about precision tools! Charles Mak, now in retirement, is an enthusiastic hobby woodworker, teacher, writer and tipster. He formerly worked part-time at his local Lee Valley Tools store. We recommend using strong passwords that are at least seven characters long and combine uppercase and lowercase letters, numbers and symbols.

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Please check your inbox. Yes, take me to Lee Valley Canada Cancel. Make Your Own Marking Knife Woodworkers have a reputation for making their own tools, whether out of interest or just frugality.

Some of the handmade tools the author uses in his shop. The sharp and stiff cutting edge makes this scalpel ideal for laying out tails or pins.

Stock Preparation The small size of the knife makes it an ideal project for using the hardwood from your scrap bin. Cutting the Blade Channel A blind channel is cut on one of the strips to the exact width and depth of the blunt end of the blade so that the blade sits snugly and tightly in the channel.

Use the nick on the strip to set the next saw cut. Drilling the Holes Using the blade as a template, I located and drilled the bolt and nut through-holes together.

Use the depth stop on the drill press to control the boring depth on the blind hole. Shaping the Handle With the strips bolted together, I outlined the shape on the face of the handle. Using a Spokeshave A Canted Blade I set the blade at a slight angle to the sole so I can vary the depth of cut by re-positioning the spokeshave rather than re-setting the cutter.

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