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making-lathe-tools-youtube-qq Start from the bottom. Reply 1 year ago. Watch our woodturning videos right in your shop to develop your lathe skills and become one with your chisels. Hello, Mr. Whether you use a file or turn the brass try maoing collect it underneath the work rather than with a dust extractor.

Key is short and stiff to start. Then pilot and follow to size with standard bits. Always use a center drill to make a dent in the material first. This will help hold the drill bit centered and keep it from walking around. One thing you hint on in the article is the swing size, and the size of the part. Great, but how big of a part can I turn? You need to be aware of the size the chuck gets when you open it to hold something of any real size.

Lead screws, lead nuts, a spindle adapter, all while the lathe was torn down to certain degrees. If the part is a tube or hollow you can flip the jaws in the chuck and clamp on the inside to get the full swing. I had enough clearance between the jaws and the ways, but it made me nervous. On smaller lathes such as the Unimat, yes. Larger lathes Myford size and up with Pratt Burnerd chucks you have a set of reverse jaws for that chuck.

A lot of lathes have a part of the support ways under the chuck removable and in many, the many layers of crud on them effectively hide the existance of this feature :D , so that you can chuck stock almost as big as the swing size….

Or a stone hammer or flint knife? A potters wheel on the other hand is a machine and a tool. But since a potters wheel and a lathe is from a practical standpoint the same tool. Since the work piece if the thing that rotates, while the tool a hand for a pottery wheel is stationary. Then your question is a good one, maybe they are both first. Power Hammer is a machine and although they were mostly used in the 19th century the earlier versions called a Trip Hammer also a machine date way back.

They date back to as early as 40 BC. Yes, a power hammer is a machine. What you mentioned are hand tools, not to be compared to modern externally powered hand tools. Even a gas tank is a component of a power grid. You know, like a lathe. If one would want to buy a lathe but has no experience whatsoever, would it be advisable to buy a wood lathe first before investing in a metal lathe?

Just to get more feeling with the proces of it all. Really should not turn wood on a metal lathe. Wood has a lot of silica in it, mix that with oil and you have a lapping compound which gets everywhere and wears things very fast. And with a wood lathe, the tools are held in your hands, not in a strong vise; a knot in the wood could result in the wood, blade, and then your face exploding!

The tools work on the same principle, but the implementation is so different that there is no benefit to getting a wood lathe unless you are interested in wood turning. As [Jsp] said, you can turn wood on a metal lathe, but if you do, take the precaution of removing as many of the machine parts from the lathe as possible first and clean it thoroughly afterwards. All of that sawdust will work its way under the ways sliding surfaces and swell up with oil, resulting in a big hit on your metal turning accuracy.

Then, if you get into carbide later, you will understand what it is that you are paying for. Agreed with all the recommendations here. The tooling is completely different. You can most certainly turn metal on a wood lathe, leverage is your friend for any part ovr 1inch DIA, and files are your friend for all of the above. As was hinted in the article, the lathe is king of machine tools because it can do the job of most other tools, creditably at least.

You could even go for luxury and put on a right angle slide. Put a bar with a toolbit coming out the side between headstock and tailstock and you have a boring mill.

If I am wrong than please enlighten me. Put a collet and endmill in the headstock. Right angle plate on then cross slide.

Produce cube in vertical mill mode. Face off side 1. Flip workpiece end for end and face off the opposite side. Use now parallel sides to align workpiece and face off 2 perpendicular sides. You now have 2 more rechuckings to a cube. I am remember one of many photographies from school.

I was impressed every time i was in class where was this picture hanged on the wall. Go to a local company that sells large metal stock, ask around for offcuts and scraps. Usually you can buy small pieces of aluminium for a couple dollars a pound.

Student you say? Have you done a project like this? What did you do better? What should I do next time? Tip 1 year ago on Introduction. Please someone tell me what is harder than a cobalt bit or a Ace hardware center punch. Reply 4 years ago. I sure didn't need any special tooling for my build. The drill bits and taps that I used probably came from Harbor Freight as well. I was using an "automatic" center punch that's just a spring loaded point that pops itself when you apply enough pressure to it, so that's a pretty light duty tool as well.

I think that the factory heat treating between chisels is wildly inconsistent on the HF tools. Somebody else asked, and you might have read in another comment on the thread, that one of my chisels cut like butter and the other one was 'tight' and squeaked the tools when I tapped it I'm not sure which way is "right" or how they're supposed to come when they're new, but they were definitely different than each other from the get go.

Anyway, the other poster recommended annealing the chisels before tapping them if people ran into this issue. I'm not a metallurgy buff, so I don't actually know the right way to do that safely without doing some google searching first. Heat the end up with a blowtorch to red hot. To harden again - heat up to red hot and then cool by dipping in can of oil. To get a controlled temper you need to do more work look it up but these tools are not used for cutting so you just want it a bit stronger than unannealed steel and this will do.

Reply 1 year ago. Thats right the annealing is the best way to go anyway as you may save yourself a few drill bits or taps, but retempering is also easy, you polish the steel so that when reheating you can carefully watch the colours flowing through the material, the yellow straw color will give you back a pretty hard temper and then quickly dunk the piece into oil or even water.

If you were to heat back to red hot then you would make the material very brittle and possibly dangerous it can shatter in your hands while using it , the other colours that can be seen e. That way you can turn the cutter 45 degrees to either side and get a scraping action. A little hard to get used to, but they work great. Look very carefully at the picture in step 6, you will see that a portion of the un-threaded part of the screw protrudes below the cutter, the countersink allows clearance for this part of the mounting screw.

Reply 2 years ago. Not only that - even without that, it's not a bad idea to at least chamfer the hole a tiny bit to make sure the cutter sits flush to the surface. Basically deburring, but not everyone has a set of deburring tools - a slight touch with a countersink is a reasonable substitute. The taper on the bottom of the screw protrudes below the bottom of these inserts.

It wasn't part of the original plan, but I couldn't fully tighten them without this step. Tip 2 years ago on Step 5. At minimum, use Tap-Ease, SafeTap, or something with a similar name. I'd really recommend a sulfur-compound-containing fluid like ReLiOn, which changed my life when tapping tough-to-tap hard steels. While it works for mild steel etc. Seriously, not only does it make tapping much easier, but it also saves the unbelievable headache of a broken tap jammed permanently in the hole.

Went through like butter. No "backing-off to clear the chips", either. I bought the tap and the ReLiOn, never looked back. I debated on which carbide inserts to buy. NZ Carbide also has more affordable cutters, but the EWT sales copy got me : and I decided to "splurge" on their more premium inserts. Just ordered several boxes to make some more tools. I am using 'bright mild steel' for the shafts and turning my own wood handles.

HSS round bar about mm long for the tool also makes good tools, just grind the shape you want for cutting tip on the end.

TC tip on deep hollowing tool, 2. Great job! I think having a shoulder on the end to register the cutter against is a good idea and safer if the screw happened to come loose.

Masonry drill bits are harder and can be used to drill holes in hardened steel. They are also very easy to sharpen if need be. I'll be trying your ideas out, thanks. By jimustanguitar Follow. Giving new life to old wood one piece at a time. Here's a collection of 20 astounding hacks that'll help make your marking more accurate and your days more productive. Join the fun convo with 9GAG community. Take your woodworking to the next level with this simple jig. All you need are some miter gauges, plywood and careful measuring.

Assembling the ultimate box joint jig from the easy to follow plans available here.

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