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kreg-material-thickness-stop-problem Are you edgebanding or working on a leg and rail joint? Product Reviews. Given the kreg material thickness stop problem that I have presented here I believe that the jig should be set for the the thicker board so that the screw will cross kreg material thickness stop problem center of the joint. Even though the screw is not in the maaterial of the joint the world wouldn't end. This has been discussed here a few times before, Kreg thickbess given input on those occasions. How many Projects do you complete in a Year? Sign in to chat!

Posted by Robert Ringel on September 17, at pm — 4 Comments. Powered by. All Discussions My Discussions Add. Different thicknesses? Before I get into the shop and spend time experimenting with scrap wood I want to Kreg Material Thickness Stop Effect know if anyone has already figured out the correct settings for joining two different thicknesses of boards.

Even though the screw is not in the center of the joint the world wouldn't end. However I like precision and that wouldn't cut it. I searched the Kreg info and can not find this issue addressed anywhere. Anyone want to save me some time? Replies to This Discussion Permalink Reply by Ben Socratous on June 8, at am I have had a bit of a play with doing this using scrap mdf offcuts. I have found that the best way is to use all the settings depth, screws, etc for the thinner piece and make sure that the pockets are in the thinner piece ie screw from the thinner to the thicker stock.

Thanks for your reply and I agree with your answer but the specific question dealt with attaching the thicker piece to the thinner piece. Ben Socratous said: I have had a bit of a play with doing this using scrap mdf offcuts. My understanding is that the setting of the depth stop on the drill and the positioning of the jig always and only relate to the thickness of the wood being drilled into.

The length of the screw always and only relates to the thickness of the wood being screwed into. I think that, if the jig and depth stop are set correctly for the wood being drilled, the part of the screw contained within the Kreg Material Thickness Stop Zip wood between the base of the pocket and its exit hole will always be about the same, regardless of the total length of the screw.

Therefore, the amount of screw that protrudes from the exit hole in this piece and penetrates the other piece of wood will always be determined by the length of the screw being used. So use a 1 inch screw to fix to half inch thick boards. Again another good response but I will now present my opinion though I have not tested it yet. I was on a fishing expedition with Kreg about the amount of additional information on the pocket hole jig that the owners could use.

I think that they should make more specific info available and at the very least respond the the questions posed in this forum. Given the scenario that I have presented here I believe that the jig should be set for the the thicker board so that the screw will cross the center of the joint.

Douglas Golding said: My understanding is that the setting of the depth stop on the drill and the positioning of the jig always and only relate to the thickness of the wood being drilled into.

David, good question I had that issue too. Did you run a search before you added your question? This has been discussed here a few times before, Kreg has given input on those occasions. I Kreg Material Thickness Stop Yellow searched everywhere that I could think of including Kreg Videos that I purchased and I can't find a particular location for technical questions. I sent them an email and I was directed to this forum. I think that getting technical info should be easier than this.

Bob Farmer said: David, good question I think the biggest problem is that there are far too many variables to answer your question simply. There's no magic bullet solution for every joint of different thickness. What kind of joint is it? Are you drilling into the smaller piece or the larger piece? Will the two workpieces be flush or offset? Are you edgebanding or working on a leg and rail joint? We can't, and I'm sure KReg can't, give a good answer unless we know what yoru specific situtation is.

I would guess that's why there isn't anything on their site in great detail because there are too many variables to account for. In my opinion, the answer to your question is simple Build some test joints, and then adjust accordingly.

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