Jwl1221vs 231,Klein Digital Tape Measure 10,Good Hand Saw For Cutting Wood 01 - Try Out
The smaller the gauge number, the heavier the cord. Improper connection of the equipment-grounding conductor can result in a risk of electric shock. The conductor with insulation having an outer surface that is green with or without yellow stripes is the equipment-grounding conductor. If repair or replacement of the electric cord or plug is necessary, do not connect the equipmentgrounding conductor to a live terminal.
Check with a qualified electrician or service personnel if the grounding instructions are not completely understood, or if in doubt as to whether the tool is properly grounded. Failure to comply may cause serious or fatal injury. Ampere Rating Use only 3-wire extension cords that have 3-prong grounding plugs and 3-pole receptacles that accept the tool's plug.
Repair or replace immediately. Grounded, cord-connected tools intended for use on a supply circuit having a nominal rating less than volts: Volts Total length of cord in feet 25 50 50 AWG More Than Not More Than 00 06 18 16 16 14 06 10 18 16 14 12 10 12 16 16 12 16 14 12 14 12 Not Recommended Extension Cord Recommendations Table 1 This tool is intended for use on a circuit that has an outlet that looks like the one illustrated in A, Figure 9.
An adapter, shown in B and C, may be used to connect this plug to a 2-pole receptacle as shown in B if a properly grounded outlet is not available. The temporary adapter should be used only until a properly grounded outlet can be installed by a 11 9.
Figure 11 Loosen locking handle A on tool rest base to slide base forward or back, and to angle it to the bed.
Tighten locking handle firmly before operating lathe. The clamping system has been properly adjusted by the manufacturer. If in the future it does not properly lock tailstock in position, remove tailstock from bed, and turn it over. Adjust cam lock nut Figure 12 as needed. Loosen small handle B to raise or lower tool rest and angle it to the work. Tighten handle before operating lathe.
Figure 12 Figure 10 9. Figure 13 identifies these ranges. This chart is also affixed to inside of pulley access door. Loosen locking lever C and slide tailstock into position. Retighten locking lever. Do not position edge of tailstock off end of bed. This will result in less clamping surface and may increase risk of injury. When there is no torque on the lathe i. To remove tailstock, loosen lever C and slide tailstock off end of bed.
Handle D locks and unlocks tailstock quill. The handle is adjustable — lift up on handle and rotate it on pin, then release, making sure it seats itself on the pin. Handwheel E advances and retracts quill.
Figure 13 To move belt to a different pulley: 1. Relieve belt tension by pulling handle F, Figure 14 while pushing up lever G. Move belt to desired pulley set. Make sure belt is properly seated in both pulleys, and both pulleys are aligned belt is vertical, not slanted. Push lever G down to tighten belt, and close access doors. Rotate knurled head counterclockwise until pin releases.
Move pulley to next desired hole, and repeat. NOTE: A 3mm hex key K, Figure 15 can be inserted and turned in the hole of the knurled head, to help tighten or loosen the index pin. Disengage index pin before starting lathe. Use spindle lock for this purpose. Keep access doors closed during operation.
Do not start lathe at maximum speed. Start at lowest speed within that range and gradually increase to full speed. It is the normal rotation for standard woodturning operations. Reverse is clockwise rotation. Spindle direction can be changed without turning off the lathe. Figure 14 9. The safety key C1 can be removed to prevent unauthorized use of lathe. Key must be reinserted to start lathe. Your lathe provides 24 indexing positions.
These are identified by inscribed numbers on the spindle pulley H, Figure 15 If a power outage should occur during operation, the lathe will not immediately restart when power is resumed. Flip paddle switch off and then back on to start lathe. Digital readout D : The digital readout may display an error code if a malfunction occurs on the lathe.
Also, an alarm signal may be emitted until the issue has been resolved. If an error code occurs, consult section Figure 15 1. Rotate spindle until index pin I aligns with desired hole.
Push index pin into hole and rotate knurled head J to engage threads and secure in position. Perform operation. Figure 16 13 Nothing can replace the knowledge gained by conversation with experienced woodturners, or consulting books or trade articles. Above all, simple trial and error will aid in developing proficiency in the craft.
Machine is on a level surface. Check bearings; adjust only if endplay exists. Check belt; it should be snug but not overly tight. Bed ways; keep clean, use steel wool to remove any rust spots, and apply paste wax to prevent buildup of rust and finishes. Tool support; use a mill file to remove nicks and dings. Spindle tapers; should be clean and free of dust and chips for proper seating of tapers.
Tailstock; clean and lubricate quill and locking device. Lighting; proper lighting is essential eliminate shadows and reduce eye strain. Figure 17 Basic Turning Tools to For safety and best performance, keep tools sharp. If a tool stops cutting or requires excessive pressure to make a cut, it needs to be sharpened. A number of brand name sharpening jigs and fixtures are available; however, a woodturner should learn to sharpen tools freehand.
High-speed steel tools hold an edge and last longer than ordinary carbon steel. As one becomes proficient in turning, a variety of specialty tools for specific applications can be acquired. The following tools provide the basics for most woodturning projects see Figure 17 : For best results, use a slow speed grinder rpm fitted with a grit aluminum oxide wheel for shaping and a grit alum.
The grinder should be located near your lathe and at a comfortable height. A diamond dresser will keep the wheels true and eliminate glazing. Never allow the tool to rest in one place on the wheel, keep it moving and use a light touch.
Carbon steel tools can overheat easily and should be cooled frequently. If the edge turns blue, it has lost its temper and should be ground past the blue area. High-speed steel tools are not as likely to overheat, but can be damaged if allowed to get red hot. High-speed steel tools should not be quenched for cooling. Honing with a diamond lap or slipstone will save trips to the grinder and keep the edge fresh.
It requires a spur or drive center in the headstock, and a live or dead center in the tailstock. A cup center rather than a cone center in the tailstock will often reduce the risk of splitting the stock.
Be careful that you do not split the workpiece. Never use a steel face hammer and never drive the workpiece onto the spur center while it is mounted in the Lathe spindle. Figure 18 shows the basic profile shapes in spindle turning.
Figure 18 Larger stock should have the corners removed to produce an octagon making the piece easier to rough down to a cylinder. With a combination square, or plastic center finder for round stock, locate and mark center on each end of the workpiece. Accuracy is not critical on full rounds but extremely important on stock where square sections are to remain. Put a dimple in the stock with an awl or nail, or use a spring-loaded automatic center punch.
Make sure the headstock is locked to the Lathe bed. Clean the tapered end of the spur center and the inside of the headstock spindle. Insert the tapered end of the spur center with the attached workpiece into the headstock spindle.
Lock the tailstock to the bed. Advance the tailstock spindle with the handwheel in order to seat the live center into the workpiece. Tighten the spindle locking handle. Extremely hard woods may require kerfs cut into the ends of the stock Figure 19 using a band saw, so the wood will accept the spur center and the live center. The tailstock ram is capable of exerting excessive pressure against the workpiece and the headstock.
Apply only sufficient force with the tailstock to hold the workpiece securely in place. Excessive pressure can overheat center bearings and damage both workpiece and Lathe. Move tool support into position. Tighten support base to Lathe bed. Figure 19 15 points of the skew to the spinning workpiece may cause a catch and ruin the workpiece.
Add details to the workpiece with skew, parting tool, scraper or spindle gouge. Beads 1. Make a parting cut for what is to be a bead to the desired depth.
Place the parting tool on the tool support and move tool forward to make the full bevel of the tool come into contact with the workpiece. Gently raise handle to make cut to the appropriate depth. Figure 21 2. Repeat for other side of the bead. Rotate workpiece by hand to check for proper clearance. Using a small skew or spindle gouge, start in the center between the two cuts and cut down each side to form the bead.
Roll the tool in direction of cut. Start lathe at lowest speed and bring it up to the appropriate RPM for the size of workpiece used. Coves Roughing Out 1. Begin with a large roughing gouge. Place the tool on the tool support with the heel of the tool on the surface to be cut. Slowly and gently raise tool handle until cutting edge comes into contact with the workpiece.
See Figure Make long sweeping cuts in a continuous motion to rough the piece down to a cylinder. Keep as much of the bevel of the tool as possible in contact with the workpiece to ensure control and avoid catches. NOTE: Always cut down-hill, or from large diameter to small diameter. Always work toward the end of a work-piece, never start cutting at the end. Use a spindle gouge.
With the flute of the tool at 90 degrees to the workpiece, touch the point of the tool to the workpiece and roll in towards the bottom of the cove. Stop at the bottom; attempting to go up the opposite side may cause the tool to catch. Figure 23 2. Move the tool over the desired width of the cove. With the flute facing the opposite direction, repeat step 1 for other side of cove.
Stop at bottom of cut. Once the workpiece is roughed down to a cylinder, smooth it with a large skew. Keep the skew handle perpendicular to the spindle and use only the center third of the cutting edge for a long smoothing cut touching one of the 16 1.
Use the long point of the skew. NOTE: Do not press the long point of the skew directly into the workpiece to create the "V"; this will result in a burned or burnished "V" with fibers being rolled up at both sides. Lightly mark the center of the "V" with the tip of the skew.
Move the point of the skew to the right half of the desired width of your cut. With the bevel parallel to the right side of the cut, raise the handle and push the tool in to the desired depth, as shown in Figure Repeat from the left side. The two cuts should meet at the bottom and leave a clean "V" cut. Additional cuts may be taken to add to either the depth or width of the cut.
Parting Off 1. Use parting tool. Adjust lathe speed to lower RPM for parting through a workpiece. Place tool on tool support and raise the handle until it starts to cut and continue to cut toward the center of the workpiece.
Loosely hold on to the piece in one hand as it separates from the waste wood. Always select the largest diameter face plate that can be used for the workpiece to be turned. True one surface of the workpiece for mounting against the face plate. Using the face plate as a template, mark the location of the mounting holes on the workpiece, and drill pilot holes of the appropriate size.
Face plates are drilled for No. Phillips and square drive screws will hold up better than slotted screws. Sheet Jwl1221vs Zip Code metal screws are case hardened with deeper and sharper threads than wood screws.
If the mounting screws on the face plate interfere with the workpiece, a glue or waste block can be used: Figure 24 5. Make a block the same diameter as the face plate, Figure Both waste block and workpiece should have flat surfaces for gluing. Glue the block to the workpiece.
Avoid using brown paper or newspaper between the waste block and workpiece. It may work fine if you are using scrapers, but a slight catch with a bowl gouge can separate the two. NOTE: When using a waste block, be careful with the adhesive you select.
Dry workpieces can be bonded with ordinary white or yellow glue but must be clamped to ensure a good bond. Green workpieces require cyanoacrylate type glue. Sanding and Finishing Leaving clean cuts will reduce the amount of sanding required. Move the tool support out of the way, adjust the lathe to a low speed, and begin with fine sandpaper grit or finer. Coarser sandpaper will leave deep scratches that are difficult to remove, and dull crisp details on the spindle.
Progress through each grit without skipping grits for example, do not jump from grit to grit. Fold the sandpaper into a pad; do not wrap sandpaper around your fingers or the workpiece. To apply a finish, the workpiece can be left on the lathe. Turn off the lathe and use a brush or paper towel to apply the finish. Remove excess finish before restarting lathe.
Allow to dry and sand again with or grit sandpaper. Apply second coat of finish and buff. Figure 25 While faceplates are the simplest, most reliable method of holding a block of wood for turning, chucks can also be used. As there are dozens of chucks to choose from, the woodturner should first consider all the different types of turning that will be done, and read reports or discuss with other turners who own chucks before making a decision.
Large domed scrapers can also be used to help clean up the interior surfaces of bowls. A light touch with the scraper slightly tilted will eliminate some of the ridges occasionally left by an inexperienced bowl gouge.
A chuck is not a requirement, but is handy when working on more than one piece at a time. Rather than removing screws, you simply open the chuck and change workpieces. Most also come with a screw chuck as well.
Odd shaped burls, crotches and other irregular shaped blanks require special preparation before mounting in a chuck or onto a faceplate. Remove the bark, if there is any, from what appears to be the center of the top of the workpiece. Firewood is the cheapest, most widely available stock to use while learning to turn bowls. Simply waste wood for a while practicing turning techniques. Develop skill with each tool before attempting to make a finished piece.
It is best to start with dry wood, without worrying about drying or distortion. Once turning becomes comfortable, try green wood which cuts very easily. As the turner gains experience, he or she will find extraordinary grain and figure in the form of burls, crotches and bark inclusions. Drive spur center into the top of the workpiece with a mallet or dead blow hammer.
Slip the spur center into the headstock taper and bring the tailstock with a live or ball bearing center into position. Lock the tailstock to the bed and advance the tailstock spindle in order to seat the cup center into the workpiece. Tighten the ram locking handle. Turn workpiece by hand to ensure proper clearance. Checks and Cracks 5. Start lathe at lowest speed and bring it up to the maximum safe speed for the size of work to be turned.
If the machine starts to vibrate, lower the speed until vibration stops. For best control, use your whole body to move the gouge through the workpiece. As the bowl takes shape, work on the bottom tailstock end to accomodate attaching a face plate.
This will allow centering the workpiece when the faceplate is attached. Wood Selection Green wood will check and crack. For best results, leave logs in as long a length as you can handle. As the material starts to dry, surface cracks will develop on the ends of the log. Cut off two to three inches and you should find good, sound wood.
Also cut the log in half along the pith to avoid having it in the finished piece. Most checks radiate from the pith. As you turn bowls from green wood, make sure you maintain a consistent wall thickness throughout the piece.
Leaving a piece thick in some areas and thin in others will cause the wood to dry unevenly and promote checks and cracks. Distortion Distortion is a problem associated with turning green wood. It will vary from one type of wood to the next. Typically, fruitwoods tend to distort more than others.
It also varies with the time of year the tree was cut and how the logs are stored. Tools for Bowl Turning The deep fluted bowl gouge is the most essential and versatile tool for most bowl and plate turning. The bowl gouge is heavier and easier to control than other types of gouges. It also allows removal of wood much faster and with less vibration than other gouges. Most average sized bowl work can Figure 26 18 NOTE: If you plan to use a chuck, turn a tenon of the appropriate length and diameter to fit your chuck.
Develop wall thickness at the rim and maintain it as you work deeper into the bowl Once the piece is thin toward the bottom, you cannot make it thinner at the rim. When the interior is finished, move the tool support to exterior to re-define bottom of bowl. Begin the separation with a parting tool, but do not cut all the way through yet. Stop the lathe, remove workpiece and attach face plate or chuck see Section The surfaces of faceplate and workpiece should mount flush to each other.
Leave additional material at base of bowl for support while turning interior. This will be removed later. To Shape Interior of Bowl 1. Sanding and Finishing Stop the lathe and move tailstock away. You may want to remove the center from the tailstock to avoid bumping it with your elbow.
Adjust tool support in front of the bowl just below centerline, at a right angle to the lathe ways. Rotate workpiece by hand to check clearance.
Face off top of bowl by making a light shearing cut across the top of workpiece, from rim to center. The tool handle should be level and pointed toward the four o'clock position, as shown in Figure Remove the tool support and adjust lathe speed to approximately RPM. High speed can build friction while sanding and cause heat check in some woods. Begin with fine sandpaper grit and progress through each grit, using only light pressure.
Coarser sandpaper tends to leave deep scratches that are hard to eliminate. Use power-sanding techniques to avoid concentric sanding marks around your finished piece. Avoid rounding over the rim and foot with sandpaper; try to keep details crisp. Finish sanding with grit. Remove sanding dust with tack rags or compressed air and, with lathe turned off, apply first coat of finish. Let stand for several minutes, wipe off excess.
Allow to dry before sanding again with or grit sandpaper. Turn lathe back on and continue the separation cut almost all the way through the base. Stop at about 3" and use a small fine tooth saw to separate the bowl from the waste. Apply second finish coat and allow to dry before buffing. Use the left hand to control cutting edge of gouge, while right hand swings tool handle around toward your body Figure The flute should start out facing top of workpiece, and rotate upward as it moves deeper into the bowl to maintain a clean even curve.
As the tool goes deeper into the bowl, progressively work out toward the rim. It may be necessary to turn the tool support into the piece as you get deeper into the bowl. Wipe down the lathe after each use, and blow out chips and dust using compressed air wear eye and respiratory protection!
NOTE: Try to make one, very light continuous movement from the rim to the bottom of the bowl to ensure a clean, sweeping curve through the piece. Should there be a few small Periodically apply a light coat of oil to headstock spindle, tailstock quill, bed surface, and tool rest post. Protect the bed from rust by applying paste wax or a commercially available rust protectant.
Dry workpieces can be bonded with ordinary white or yellow glue but must be clamped to ensure a good bond. Green workpieces require cyanoacrylate type glue. Sanding and Finishing Leaving clean cuts will reduce the amount of sanding required. Move the tool support out of the way, adjust the lathe to a low speed, and begin with fine sandpaper grit or finer. Coarser sandpaper will leave deep scratches that are difficult to remove, and dull crisp details on the spindle.
Progress through each grit without skipping grits for example, do not jump from grit to grit. Fold the sandpaper into a pad; do not wrap sandpaper around your fingers or the workpiece.
To apply a finish, the workpiece can be left on the lathe. Turn off the lathe and use a brush or paper towel to apply the finish. Remove excess finish before restarting lathe.
Allow to dry and sand again with or grit sandpaper. Apply second coat of finish and buff. While faceplates are the simplest, most reliable method of holding a block of wood for turning, chucks can also be used. As there are dozens of chucks to choose from, the woodturner should first consider all the different types of turning that will be done, and read reports or discuss with other turners who own chucks before making a decision.
Large domed scrapers can also be used to help clean up the interior surfaces of bowls. A light touch with the scraper slightly tilted will eliminate some of the ridges occasionally left by an inexperienced bowl gouge.
A chuck is not a requirement, but is handy when working on more than one piece at a time. Rather than removing screws, you simply open the chuck and change workpieces. The most popular ones are four jaw scroll chucks with a variety of jaws to accommodate different size tenons. Most also come with a screw chuck as well.
Odd shaped burls, crotches and other irregular shaped blanks require special preparation before mounting in a chuck or onto a faceplate. Remove the bark, if there is any, from what appears to be the center of the top of the workpiece. Firewood is the cheapest, most widely available stock to use while learning to turn bowls.
Simply waste wood for a while practicing turning techniques. Develop skill with each tool before attempting to make a finished piece.
It is best to start with dry wood, without worrying about drying or distortion. Once turning becomes comfortable, try green wood which cuts very easily. As the turner gains experience, he or she will find extraordinary grain and figure in the form of burls, crotches and bark inclusions. Slip the spur center into the headstock taper and bring the tailstock with a live or ball bearing center into position. Lock the tailstock to the bed and advance the tailstock spindle in order to seat the cup center into the workpiece.
Tighten the ram locking handle. Start lathe at lowest speed and bring it up to the maximum safe speed for the size of work to be turned. If the machine starts to vibrate, lower the speed until vibration stops. For best control, use your whole body to move the gouge through the workpiece. As the bowl takes shape, work on the bottom tailstock end to accomodate attaching a face plate. This will allow centering the workpiece when the faceplate is attached.
Green wood will check and crack. For best results, leave logs in as long a length as you can handle. As the material starts to dry, surface cracks will develop on the ends of the log. Cut off two to three inches and you should find good, sound wood. Also cut the log in half along the pith to avoid having it in the finished piece. Most checks radiate from the pith.
As you turn bowls from green wood, make sure you maintain a consistent wall thickness throughout the piece. Leaving a piece thick in some areas and thin in others will cause the wood to dry unevenly and promote checks and cracks.
Distortion Distortion is a problem associated with turning green wood. It will vary from one type of wood to the next. Typically, fruitwoods tend to distort more than others. It also varies with the time of year the tree was cut and how the logs are stored.
Tools for Bowl Turning The deep fluted bowl gouge is the most essential and versatile tool for most bowl and plate turning. The bowl gouge is heavier and easier to control than other types of gouges. It also allows removal of wood much faster and with less vibration than other gouges.
Most average sized bowl work can. NOTE: If you plan to use a chuck, turn a tenon of the appropriate length and diameter to fit your chuck. Develop wall thickness at the rim and maintain it as you work deeper into the bowl Once the piece is thin toward the bottom, you cannot make it thinner at the rim.
When the interior is finished, move the tool support to exterior to re-define bottom of bowl. Stop the lathe, remove workpiece and attach face plate or chuck see Section The surfaces of faceplate and workpiece should mount flush to each other.
Leave additional material at base of bowl for support while turning interior. This will be removed later. Stop the lathe and move tailstock away. You may want to remove the center from the tailstock to avoid bumping it with your elbow. Adjust tool support in front of the bowl just below centerline, at a right angle to the lathe ways. Face off top of bowl by making a light shearing cut across the top of workpiece, from rim to center. The tool handle should be level and pointed toward the four o'clock position, as shown in Figure Remove the tool support and adjust lathe speed to approximately RPM.
High speed can build friction while sanding and cause heat check in some woods. Begin with fine sandpaper grit and progress through each grit, using only light pressure. Coarser sandpaper tends to leave deep scratches that are hard to eliminate. Use power-sanding techniques to avoid concentric sanding marks around your finished piece. Avoid rounding over the rim and foot with sandpaper; try to keep details crisp.
Finish sanding with grit. Remove sanding dust with tack rags or compressed air and, with lathe turned off, apply first coat of finish. Let stand for several minutes, wipe off excess.
Allow to dry before sanding again with or grit sandpaper. Turn lathe back on and continue the separation cut almost all the way through the base. Stop at about 3" and use a small fine tooth saw to separate the bowl from the waste.
Use the left hand to control cutting edge of gouge, while right hand swings tool handle around toward your body Figure The flute should start out facing top of workpiece, and rotate upward as it moves deeper into the bowl to maintain a clean even curve. As the tool goes deeper into the bowl, progressively work out toward the rim. It may be necessary to turn the tool support into the piece as you get deeper into the bowl.
Wipe down the lathe after each use, and blow out chips and dust using compressed air wear eye and respiratory protection! NOTE: Try to make one, very light continuous movement from the rim to the bottom of the bowl to ensure a clean, sweeping curve through the piece. Should there be a few small. Periodically apply a light coat of oil to headstock spindle, tailstock quill, bed surface, and tool rest post.
Protect the bed from rust by applying paste wax or a commercially available rust protectant. Bearings are permanently lubricated and sealed.
They do not require further lubrication. If brushes need replacing, replace both at the same time. A heavily worn or damaged brush, if allowed to remain, may eventually cause damage to internal motor elements. Inspect brush. Remove three button head screws on the cover C, Figure 30 , and remove cover.
NOTE: The spindle lock will pop out with its spring. Be careful not to lose these parts. Use a rubber mallet, or hammer against a block of wood, to tap spindle toward tailstock Figure Never use a steel face hammer directly against the spindle.
Engage spindle lock, and loosen both set screws A in handwheel with 3mm hex key. Unscrew handwheel from spindle. Note: Lefthand threads; turn clockwise to remove. Continue pulling spindle toward tailstock until it clears left hole in headstock and offers enough room to remove belt Figure Figure 32 Remove belt through lower access door. Reverse above procedure to install belt and reposition spindle. NOTE: Make sure to insert spindle lock with its spring before tightening cover.
Do not overtighten spindle handwheel when installing. Contact your dealer to order, or call Walter Meier at the phone number on the cover. Worn spindle bearings Worn motor Workpiece warped, out of round, has major flaw, or was improperly prepared for turning Worn spindle bearings.
Replace bearings Replace motor Correct problem by planing or sawing workpiece, or discard entirely and use new workpiece Replace spindle bearings. Re-apply light coat of oil to lathe bed surface. Release index pin or spindle lock Make sure connector plug of motor cord is connected. To order parts or reach our service department, call Monday through Friday see our website for business hours, www.
Having the Model Number and Serial Number of your machine available when you call will allow us to serve you quickly and accurately. Tool Caddy Socket Head Button Screw Socket Head Cap Screw Lock Washer Hex Cap Screw Motor Pulley Access Door Pan Head Screw Warning Label Toolrest Base Assembly includes 12 thru Lock Handle Assembly Toolrest Base Rubber Cover Eccentric Rod Toolrest Clamp Bolt Hex Nut Tailstock Assembly includes 17, 18, 22 thru Tailstock Handwheel Assembly includes 22 thru Set Screw Lock Handle Assembly, Tailstock Eccentric Rod, Tailstock Lead Screw Tailstock Clamp Bolt Live Center Assembly includes 36 thru Live Center Head Center Point for Live Center Ball Bearing Live Center Shaft Motor Pulley Nylon Insert Socket Set Screw Nylon Nut Motor Plate Ratchet Key Flat Washer Motor Assembly with Sensor set includes 51 thru Motor Label Special Magnet Collar Sensor, Motor Motor Cover Strain Relief Motor Carbon Brush with Cap not shown External Tooth Lock Washer Knockout Rod Wrench includes ID Label Cord Snap Ring Headstock Assembly includes 4 thru Spur Center Center Point for Spur Center Cover serial and higher Spindle Sensor Collar Sensor, Headstock Spindle Pulley Index Pin Pulley Access Door Speed Label Spindle Lock Pin serial and higher Controller Assembly includes 1 thru Switch Box Tapping Screw Digital Readout Control Potentiometer Assembly Main Switch Control Panel Label Motor Cord, Female Power Cord Circuit Board Assembly serial and higher Pular no carrossel.
Anterior no carrossel. Manual JetVs En. Enviado por Adi Badescu. Data de envio Jul 12, Denunciar este documento. Baixar agora. Pesquisar no documento. Replace the warning labels if they become obscured or removed. Make certain grounded. Some examples of these chemicals are: the Use recommended accessories; accessories may be hazardous.
Never apply coolants or water to a spinning workpiece. Never stop a rotating workpiece with your hand. Figure 4 7. Make sure the two setscrews in the faceplate have been backed out 3 mm hex key. Tighten the two set screws B. Release spindle lock. Make sure both set screws have been backed out. Rotate tailstock handwheel clockwise a few times to advance quill.
Engage spindle lock A, Figure 5. Push live center into quill. Place wrench C over flats, and turn to unscrew faceplate. To remove live center: 7. Make sure mating surfaces of spur center and spindle are clean. Drive spur center into workpiece. See section Hold on to live center to prevent it from falling.
Figure 8 Figure 6 To remove spur center Figure 7 : Hold spur center to prevent it from falling. Figure 9 Do not modify the plug provided - if it will not fit the outlet, have the proper outlet installed by a qualified electrician.
Ampere Rating Use only 3-wire extension cords that have 3-prong grounding plugs and 3-pole receptacles that accept the tool's plug. Grounded, cord-connected tools intended for use on a supply circuit having a nominal rating less than volts: Volts Total length of cord in feet 25 50 50 AWG More Than Not More Than 00 06 18 16 16 14 06 10 18 16 14 12 10 12 16 16 12 16 14 12 14 12 Not Recommended Extension Cord Recommendations Table 1 This tool is intended for use on a circuit that has an outlet that looks like the one illustrated in A, Figure 9.
Figure 11 Loosen locking handle A on tool rest base to slide base forward or back, and to angle it to the bed. Figure 12 Figure 10 9. Figure 13 To move belt to a different pulley: 1. Relieve belt tension by pulling handle F, Figure 14 while pushing up lever G. Push lever G down to tighten belt, and close access doors. Disengage index pin before starting lathe. Keep access doors closed during operation. Figure 14 9.
These are identified by inscribed numbers on the spindle pulley H, Figure 15 If a power outage should occur during operation, the lathe will not immediately restart when power is resumed. Figure 15 1. Rotate spindle until index pin I aligns with desired hole. Perform operation. Machine is on a level surface. Check bearings; adjust only if endplay exists.
Check belt; it should be snug but not overly tight. Tool support; use a mill file to remove nicks and dings. Tailstock; clean and lubricate quill and locking device. Lighting; proper lighting is essential eliminate shadows and reduce eye strain. Figure 17 Basic Turning Tools to For safety and best performance, keep tools sharp.
The following tools provide the basics for most woodturning projects see Figure 17 : For best results, use a slow speed grinder rpm fitted with a grit aluminum oxide wheel for shaping and a grit alum. Figure 18 shows the basic profile shapes in spindle turning. Figure 18 Make sure the headstock is locked to the Lathe bed. Clean the tapered end of the spur center and the inside of the headstock spindle.
Tighten the spindle locking handle. Add details to the workpiece with skew, parting tool, scraper or spindle gouge. Beads 1. Figure 21 2. Repeat for other side of the bead. Rotate workpiece by hand to check for proper clearance.
Coves Roughing Out 1. Figure 23 2. Move the tool over the desired width of the cove. Keep the skew handle perpendicular to the spindle and use only the center third of the cutting edge for a long smoothing cut touching one of the 16 1. Lightly mark the center of the "V" with the tip of the skew.
Move the point of the skew to the right half of the desired width of your cut. Additional cuts may be taken to add to either the depth or width of the cut.
Parting Off 1. Use parting tool. Adjust lathe speed to lower RPM for parting through a workpiece. Loosely hold on to the piece in one hand as it separates from the waste wood. True one surface of the workpiece for mounting against the face plate. If the mounting screws on the face plate interfere with the workpiece, a glue or waste block can Jwl1221vs 801 be used: Figure 24 5. Figure 25 Drive spur center into the top of the workpiece with a mallet or dead blow hammer.
Turn workpiece by hand to ensure proper clearance. Checks and Cracks 5. Wood Selection Green wood will check and crack. Begin the separation with a parting tool, but do not cut all the way through yet. To Shape Interior of Bowl 1.
Sanding and Finishing Stop the lathe and move tailstock away. Rotate workpiece by hand to check clearance. Apply second finish coat and allow to dry before buffing. Should there be a few small Periodically apply a light coat of oil to headstock spindle, tailstock quill, bed surface, and tool rest post. Disconnect lathe from power.
Unscrew cap A, Figure 28 using screwdriver or coin, and withdraw brush. Reinsert brush, or install new one, and screw in cap. Repeat inspection for brush on opposite side of motor. Figure 29 7. Figure 30 8. Figure 28 Release belt tension see Figure 14 , and open pulley access doors.
Remove spur center and faceplate. Disengage spindle lock. Loosen both setscrews B in spindle pulley. Figure 31 9. Increase supply wire size. Documentos semelhantes a Manual JetVs En. Alix Bouban.
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Wood Planer Machine 980 Pocket Hole Jig Rockler Quest |
Leon
06.03.2021 at 15:23:44
TM_087
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