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jointer-plane-height-query Плоскость стыковки, также известная как пробная плоскость или пробная плоскость, является типом ручной рубанок, используемый в деревообработке для выравнивания краев досок в процессе, известном как соединение, и для выравнивания поверхностей больших плиток. ОРДС. Его большая длина предназначена для того, чтобы «ездить» по волнам неровной поверхности, снимая пики, постепенно создавая более плоскую поверхность. При формировании толщины или подготовке черновой заготовки плоскости стыковки обычно. How can I set proper height to QTreeWidget's rows on initialization stage and how to handle it's changes? qt pyqt. Share. Improve this question. Follow. edited May 25 '15 at matsjoyce.  It will automatically handle row's height and width. And note, that QTreeWidget::uniformRowHeight property must be false in this case, though it will slow tree element rendering if it contains many rows. Share. Improve this answer. Follow. answered Apr 15 '10 at Maxim PopravkoMaxim Popravko. How your jointer works Think of a jointer as a motorized hand plane turned upside down. In place of the hand planeʼs sole, jointers have a pair of tables that support the stock as you pass it over a rapidly turning cutterhead. Down below, an elevation wheel provides a means for adjusting the height of the infeed table, and many jointers have a control for the outfeed table as well. Machined dovetail ways align and guide the tables. You can fine-tune their alignment and lock them in place with accessible gib screws. The cutterhead itself consists of a cylindrical assembly that typically holds t. Another feature that you will appreciate about this product is that it comes with an in-built cutter headlock that is going to facilitate simple knife adjustment. WEN T 13 in. The joitner step is to stabilize the wood on a solid surface. Any hand plane must be adjusted before every use. Comes with a reversible dust port Operates on a powerful 15A motor Excellent stability for accurate and smooth planning Comes with an adjustable jointer plane height query and infeed tables. What jointer plane height query like Can work well if you get a well-calibrated machine Decent planing width and height capacity for its size. A jointer planer is essentially jojnter machine that you will want to have in your workshop.

Even a slight angle error can multiply through the course of a woodworking proj-ect. With your drafting triangle, the job should take only a few minutes. Simply loosen the bevel lock, position the triangle as shown below , move the fence until you see no gaps at the table or fence, and retighten the lock. Instead, check with the triangle every time you change the angle of the fence.

But guess what? All the machines still produced straight, smooth edges. Aim for a maximum variance of. These gauges are designed to set each knife exactly the same height above the surface of the cutterhead. Which you choose depends partly on the type of cutterhead your machine has. The first might be called the king of low-tech. It uses a simple wooden stick and a sheet of window glass.

The glass should be cut to the width of the knives and about 12 inches long. To prevent cutting your hand, order polished edges. Then, follow Steps 1—4 in the drawings below.

In Steps 1—3 mark No. It may help to keep light finger pressure on top of the stick. After marking the cutterhead centerline on the fence, permanently scribe it with a scratch awl and triangle. To set each knife, rotate the cutterhead until the cutting edge of the knife aligns with the mark on the fence. Check the alignment by setting a triangle against the fence and touching the knife.

Immobilize the cutterhead by inserting tapered wood shims between the head and bearings, as shown below. Loosen the knife gib bolts just enough so that the knife moves with firm hand pressure. Raise the knife slightly higher than the top of the outfeed table. Now, lay the glass on the outfeed table, extended to fully contact the knife. Press the glass to the table and slowly snug up the gib bolts, starting with ones at the ends and alternately working toward the middle.

Too much torque can force a knife out of alignment. To limit the amount of pressure you can apply, turn the wrench with only your thumb and forefinger. Set each knife in turn, aligning it with the mark on the fence.

Now, use the stick to check that each knife is set the same height as the others. Lay the stick on the outfeed table, lining up any one of the three table edge marks, and rotate each knife past it. All should move the stick the same distance at both ends. For a high-tech way to set jointer knives, invest in a setting tool such as the Magna-Set. It consists of two steel or plastic bars that slide along a pair of parallel rods.

As shown below, each bar has small but powerful magnets that hold the jig to the table and the knives. This keeps each knife flush with the outfeed table while you tighten the gib bolts. A dial indicator setup, such as the A-Line-It, offers yet another way to set the knives. See the drawing below. The indicator tells you exactly how high the knives are from end to end, and in relation to each other.

These gauges work especially well with knives that you adjust with jack-screws that elevate the knives. Reinstall the cutterhead guard, and plug in the machine. If you can move it, you need to adjust the outfeed table to exactly the same height as the tops of the knives. Now, shut off the jointer, raise the outfeed table until it just contacts the workpiece, and lock it down. To double-check this setting, finish jointing the edge and make a second pass, stopping to make sure the outfeed table fully supports the cut.

Use a shallow cut and keep pressure on the infeed side until 8" to 10" is supported by the outfeed table. Before starting any project , always make sure there is enough room to maneuver around the object you are working on.

Since we are working with a non-powered hand tool, safety equipment like eye protection or gloves is not necessary , but still recommended. Keep in mind that the cutting edge, the iron, is extremely sharp, so take the necessary precautions when moving your fingers around that area. Any hand plane must be adjusted before every use. Hard use, incorrect storage, or just simple jostling can change the alignment of the plane. Some vintage or custom made jointer planes may have different methods of adjustment, but we are following basic plane adjustment ideas here.

When starting your planing project, set the initial cutting depth so that it takes off very little material. Starting out too deep can jam up the plane and cause unwanted marks on the wood surface. After all the proper adjustments to the jointer plane have been made, it is time to start flattening your board.

The first step is to stabilize the wood on a solid surface. A workbench is preferred , but any flat table that you are able to use clamps with will work. A woodworking vise is the preferred option to clamping the piece from the sides so that the entire top surface is free to plane. An important part of using a jointer plane is the motion used to run the tool over the wood board you are flattening. Two hands are used with the tool, so the natural thought is that you can simply move the tool back and forth or side to side.

This could work, but will not be very efficient. Be sure to note the direction of the grain, and plan to plane as much as possible along that same line. Grip the back handle with your rear hand, making sure that your index finger does not try to find a place to rest on the iron or chip breaker.

Pressing against these can knock the lateral adjustment out of whack. Make sure your forearm is in a straight line behind the jointer plane following the direction of the sole.

With the front hand, hold onto the tote, or front handle, with a comfortable strong grip. Lean forward, putting the strength and stability of your body behind it. Push from the back hand while pressing down with the front hand, keeping the sole as flat on the surface as possible. Forward strokes should be straight, while bringing the jointing plane back to its original position is often easier to do in a half-arc. On a wide, long surface, you can perform this action in a rapid, but smooth, motion.

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