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jointer-plane-blade-camber-queue Сопутствующие товары: Упор для рубанка Veritas Bevel Up Jointer Plane, винтовой, 05P Используется совместно с ручными рубанком Veritas Bevel-Up Jointer Plane для получения угла 90° при обработке кромок. Упор оснащен двумя латунными винтами для крепления на боковую сторону колодки рубанка. Для получения других углов необходимо прикрутить к упору планку для создания нужного угла (для чего на упоре имеются отверстия под винты). Материал - анодированный алюминий. Производство - Veitas (Канада). Нож для рубанков Veritas LAJP & BU, 57мм|А2|25°, 05P Нож для рубанка Veritas Low-Angle Jack. Bench plane blades are sharpened with a slightly curved edge or "camber". Why? How much? Is it different for a bevel-up vs bevel-down plane?  A similarly small, or perhaps a bit more, camber in the edge of a jointer plane blade allows one to bring down the “high” side of an out-of-square edge without tilting and destabilizing the heavy plane. The camber should be positioned at the center of the blade projection so the plane can be shifted toward the high side of the board’s edge to remove a slightly thicker shaving there. For jack planes, more camber lets this workhorse take thicker shavings without producing gutters. The more pronounced camber also makes it easier to direct the plane’s cut at the high spots on the surface of a boar. Why cambers on blades? Simply – for smoothers it is to remove the tracks caused by the blades sharp corners. For jacks, it enables them to hog away wood more efficiently (that is, deeper and thicker shavings).  In practice what happens is that the plane user will attempt to hone the camber on a BU plane blade, and then give up in frustration. Very few users seem to progress beyond a straight blade. So.. what this article is about is the way to camber BU plane blades, and to do so with the same ease that is experienced on BD plane blades. The Math!  Cambers on Smoothers and Jointers. Demonstrated here are cambers made on 50 degree secondary bevels on the LV Bevel Up Smoother (BUS) and the LV BU Jointer (BUJ). But start tilting it from perpendicular, and the curve flattens; its apparent radius increases:. Just picked up an old try plane. For a mild camber, you can also use the guide with a diamond plate, and that is in fact how I form the initial camber for those blades. This work on the cap iron is quite jointer plane blade camber queue and needs precision. A workbench is preferred blzde, but any flat table that you are able to use clamps with will work.

When planed together, the boards can be opened like a book and the angles of the edges will be complimentary to each other, resulting in a flat panel.

Perfect 90 degree edges are not necessary. A cambered iron cannot make this joint as well as a straight iron. Hopefully, this clears up some of the confusion surrounding the try plane.

You can see now that a 7 and 8 can both actually make very nice try planes or jointer planes. It all comes down to how you set up the iron. Tag: Hand Planes. I'm a passionate woodworking enthusiast of over 30 years, with an interest in the methods of pre-industrial joiners and cabinetmakers.

I'm a furniture maker, teacher, and author, and I share my thoughts and experiences with the goal of educating and inspiring others who are pursuing the craft of traditional woodworking. In addition to writing about and teaching traditional woodworking, I also build commission pieces for customers, and speak at woodworking shows and seminars.

Just picked up an old try plane. Only problem I had in the 5 minutes I tried, is setting up that two part blade and the wedge. Should be fun! This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed. Remember Me. Not a member yet? Register now. Sign me up for the newsletter! You can find the app here. To use it, enter your bed angle and blade width, and one of the other three values. The app will compute the other two corresponding values for you, dynamically updating the display as you modify the values.

Now, I know that someone is going to read this and then get out their micrometer and measure their blade camber to three decimal places, to which I say,. The point of the app is intuition, not prescription. Can you efficiently camber bevel up blades with stones and a LV Mk2 honing guide? Seems like a ton of steel to remove.

All but one of my planes are bevel up and have no camber. But I need to do them. Should I invest in a wet grinder? I have roughly 15 bevel up iros to camber. A coarse diamond plate lets you get it done quickly, but it can be done using only stones as well.

I use a powered grinder with a blue Norton 3X wheel, and it goes very quickly. The blade above took me less than 10 minutes, and the Norton wheel cuts so quickly that the steel barely gets warm.

Second, honing the cambered blade — The Veritas honing guide with the optional cambered roller works very well for cambered blades. For a mild camber, you can also use the guide with a diamond plate, and that is in fact how I form the initial camber for those blades.

If you wish to set real close the top surface matters as well as the fit. Polish may not be essential but sharp 45 deg edge does. Blunt edges cause choking. This query is for David Charlesworth. First, I love your three books on wooodworking, the set, that is. Do you use a scrub plane, which would normally use an even more pronounced camber?

I think Rob Cosman uses it in his Rough to Ready video to thickness boards. Your question is a can of worms — just search some of the Internet forums to get a clear picture of the debate. Smoothing plane: Just a slight camber to keep the corners from digging in. Jointer plane: A little stronger camber so that I can use that to correct edges that are out of square. Fore plane: A pronounced camber an 8" radius so that I can hog off material by working across or diagonal to the grain.

My question is simply do you camber the blades of all of your bench planes? I start with the Odate stone you recommended, which quickly gives me a great and centered starting point. I have to agree with Wesley.

The fit to the back of the blade must be good and the top surface should be well polished at not more than 45 degrees to the back of the blade. This work on the cap iron is quite difficult and needs precision. I routinely set mine as close as possible to the blade edge for fine finishing, maybe as little as 12 thou". I never actually measure the camber and agree that it is really a matter of getting to know what "looks right".

It works with both. I flat grind sometimes and hollow grind other times depending on the machine that is closest. Excellent treatment of one of those nuances of getting into planing which is so often under-explained in the "plane-like-a-pro"-type articles aimed at new handtool users. A couple quick questions though: First, how well would this work on an iron that had not been hollow-ground. I wasted an entire year polishing the entire bevel because I was afraid of screwing up a hollow-grind attempt.

Now that I finally forced myself to learn it the sharpening of the bevel goes SO much faster. I had a very, very hard time raising a frech wire edge before preHG, let alone creating a camber. Like I said, I spent an entire year toiling in the dark ages of sharpening despite religiously reading your blog.

As far as replacement breakers, but the Lie-Nielsen and Hock are vast improvements over the old Stanley ones. I own both and use both. A nice, crisp description. How much curve do you need to have the chip break and exit?

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