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hand-carved-fishing-lures Homemade Wooden Lures. The wooden fishing lures of the early s were pricey to say hanc least, and plug-casting was a sport for the well-to-do gentleman. Heddon made millions of wooden and plastic spook fishing lures, many are hand carved fishing lures fished today. Made from a durable 10mm polypropylene material, these stencils are easy to clean with water and a light detergent, and are good for many uses. Just hand carved fishing lures them off like I did the eight corners. I usecardboard for my lure patterns. You're more than welcome guys.

The front of the body is painted red and the rest is white. Harris of Manistee, Mich. Harris published one of the first catalogs for handmade fishing equipment. It's a rare version of Heddon's Underwater Expert. It was made in Ohio in Hardy in Indiana, this lure was America's first bass bait to come with extra bodies so the angler could change the color of the lure without having to change the entire lure.

It has glass eyes, three treble hooks, propellers, and a release harness around the center 3d Hand Carved Wooden Pictures for changing bodies. This innovative lure was made in by Charles E. Lane Co. It was named after a type of early s British battleship. It was made in by W.

Miller of Union Springs, N. Davis of New Jersey, has two single hooks on the body, one treble hook at the rear, and a rear propeller. It was made in It was made in luminous and nonluminous versions. The lure was designed for catching muskie but was also used for bass fishing.

It has weedguards in front of its three single hooks, propellers at the head and tail, and a spotted design on the body. The regular-size version of the Near Surface Wiggler is only worth a tenth of the baby's value.

Gaide of Fort Wayne, Ind. It's a wooden lure with a front spinner, two treble hooks, and a double hook at the rear, hidden by bucktail hair. Harris of Michigan. It has a metal propeller behind the head, and three treble hooks.

Henkenius and Peter Kane of Indiana in I'm going toshow you in the following steps how to hand carve your own custom lures. This can be apattern that somebody else has drawn up or I can create my own pattern. I usecardboard for my lure patterns. I then write on my pattern any informationabout that lure such as: location of hook hangers, location and amount ofweight for the lure, thickness of the lure, eye placement, lip angle and type,and any other pertinent information.

That way the information is always handy. I also cut the lip slot into the pattern. Select the wood that you want to use to carve your crankbaitout of. Here, I'm using Paulownia. I have several boards that I have planned tospecific thicknesses.

You can also use a block of wood and after you cut outthe profile of your lure, you can just cut the lures Hand Carved Puzzle Box off at the thickness thatyou want. There are other various woods that can be used including basswood,balsa, and poplar. The choice is up to you. I also want to make sure thatthe grain of the wood runs the length of the lure and NOT from top to bottom. This will ensure that the lure has structural integrity. Before I cut out the lure I will check and see that the table of theband saw is degrees to the band saw blade.

This ensures that the lip slot will beperpendicular to the lure. If I wait until after I carve the lure, it's hard tocut the lip slot and get it right. NOTE: This is optional. I do it to give me areference point to countersink my eye sockets. In this step I will widen the lip slot. That way I can get deeper intothe lip slot. This bit will follow the already cut lip slot almostperfectly. Be sure to widen the lip slot before you do Hand Carved Furniture Co Limited Floor the tapers on your lureas the bit will sometimes tear out a small chuck of wood as it exits the lipslot.

After I widen the lip slot, I then hollow out a smallchannel at the bottom of the lip slot that will allow me to insert the back endof the line tie if the line tie is in the lip.

I willalso drill a hole to accept the belly weight. The next step is to taper the nose on both sides and thentaper the tail. I can do this taper either by carving the taper with a goodcarving knife or I can sand the tapers on a belt sander. You can see in the picture that the nose istapered about a quarter of the way back from the nose and the tail is taperedfrom about midway of the body to the tail. This taper may vary depending a loton the type of lure that you're making.

I will start bycarving the shoulders on either side of the back as in Fig. I willcarve until the widest point on both sides is about the same width as what I'veleft across the back.

I want those threeplanes to be basically the same width. You'll see what I'm talking about in Fig2 above. Once I get those flat planes carved on the shoulders I will roll thelure over and do the same thing on the belly. I originally started with four corners on the lure. Now thatI have carved those corners off, I have eight corners. Carve those corners offand that will basically round the edges of the lure for you. For you guys thatare carving musky lures or large swimbaits you will wind up with sixteen corners.

Just carve them off like I did the eight corners. That should be enough tofinish the rounding of your larger lures. After I carve the lure I glue in the belly weight, the rearhook hanger, and the line tie, if there is one.

My carving is now done. I liketo use the fingernail sanding sticks that you find in the beauty department ofyour local shopping center. The ones at Wal-Mart are grit on one side andgrit on the other side. I use these because they tend to round the lurebetter than just sandpaper. Your way may work better for you. I give the lure a final inspection to ensure that I have allof my tapers symmetrical, all of my knife marks are sanded out, and the lurehas a Hand Carved Furniture Co Limited India general overall good appearance.

My lure is now ready for a couple of coats of sealer. A few final notes: keep your knife sharp, take your time,and always check and make sure that you keep both sides symmetrical.

One you create your ownlure that swims like you want it to, there will be no holding you back. Good luck and I hope this helps.

Thanks for the great ideas. I was having a hard time getting my lip slot and eyes right. Now it should be no problem. Basswood is probably the most popular wood used for carving fishing lures. Basswood is a creamy white colored, fine grained wood that is easily carved with hand tools.

Basswood cuts easily both with and across the grain. Our basswood is kiln dried so there is little shrinkage and accepts paint well. Basswood Bodies, Blocks, Balsa Wood Bodies Balsa wood despite being very soft, is classified as the softest of the commercial hardwoods.

It's low density and high strength make it a good choice for making crankbaits. Our balsa wood crankbait bodies are available in popular shaped sizes and styles. After shaping, each balsa body is sanded and sealed. To finish, add a build coat of Seal Coat lure finish, scuff lightly with fine sandpaper and apply your paint. Order : Build your own high performance balsa crankbait without the guesswork.

Line tie and rear hook hanger holes are precisely drilled and ready for glue. Kit includes all the parts needed to complete the bait; balsa body, line tie, circuit board bill, hook hanger s and instructions. The body is professionally sealed and ready for paint after a little fine sanding. Hooks and split rings not included.

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