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gluing-up-wood-for-turning-500 I talk about the different glues I use in wood turning and why I use them. I upload a new wood turning tip every Tuesday and a wood turning tutorial video each and every Friday so Ya’ll come back, hear?  Segmented Sphere: The Glue-up, woodturning (part 1). WYOMINGWOODTURNER. WYOMINGWOODTURNER. I glued up 5 pcs. before when I made a ball for the top of a stair post and nearly lost my head when it broke apart doing a million mph. it hit me but I got away. Is glue up for blanks to be turned common or should I wait and get a solid pc. Thanks, TimBVB.  It is perfectly acceptable to glue up wood for turning, unless you can't get an acceptable colour or grain match. Do a search for "segmented turning". Chris @ www.- and now www.- ). - Success is not the key to happiness. Wood Glue. Epoxy. Adhesive Tape. Glue Brushes & Applicators. Project Mats. Wood Finishes. Gel Stains. Water Based Stain.  Ideal for turning: ✓ Baseball Bats ✓ Platters ✓ Beefy Table Legs ✓ Hollow Vases. Mini Lathes. Ideal for turning: ✓ Pens ✓ Pizza Cutters ✓ Ice Cream Scoops ✓ Small Bowls. Create with confidence. Don't forget your dust mask during sanding operations. Although it's more prep work than starting with a solid blank, the dimensional lumber is easier to source than a huge blank that has dried gluing up wood for turning 500 cracking. Hi r-Philip, Instead of a spring to hold down or kick out the small cut pieces, I glued a clothespin onto a piece of wood to hold the cut pieces in place until the saw was pushed back. Don't worry, aggressive sanding will take care of that. Usually this results glying a chunk being taken out of my segment, rendering it worthless and tossing it at high velocity to a random spot in the gluing up wood for turning 500. In some cases, several glues can fit the bill.

Once the glue is dry, you can take it out of the clamps, and sand the surface flat. The flatter the better. This needs to glue to the disk with as few voids as possible.

The process for the remaining rings is the same as the previous step. Repeat until you have all the rings glued up, and surface sanded. Align ring 2 on top of ring 3, taking care to overlap the glue joints on the other ring. If the glue joints align, the final result won't be as strong, and could fly apart on the lathe. Trace the outline of ring 2 on ring 3. This will help show where the glue needs to be applied.

It is very important that each ring be centered on the previous ring as accurately as possible, otherwise the blank will wobble on the lathe, and again, it could fly apart.

I used my drill press as a clamp, advancing the drill chuck down onto the lathe chuck, and locking it in place. Perhaps in the future I'll make a weight that screws into the lathe chuck. So far I've only glued together rings The reason for this is that I found the hard way that my lathe tool rest doesn't reach the bottom of a fully assembled bowl.

Once the glue is dry, remove the blank from the clamp, and mount the assembly on the lathe. Don't for get to put on your safety gear. A full-face shield is a must. Not kidding. I've watched many sharp chunks of wood bounce off my mask that I would have otherwise worn. So far I've not taken a whole bowl in the face, but many have sailed over my shoulder and made dents in the furnace behind me!

This is not a place to skimp if you value your life and vision. Begin the rough turning as you normally would. Use a large gouge to round off the corners on the outside of the blank. I used a fingernail gouge to define the rough contour of the inside of the bowl. Once the basic profile has taken shape, and there are no flat spots visible, switch to a scraper taking light cuts to continue smoothing the surface.

Keeping the tools sharp will reduce the tear-out between the segments. I found that I always had a bit of tear out on the trailing edge of some segments.

Don't worry, aggressive sanding will take care of that. Take care not to round over the top edges of the bowl yet, there are still two more rings to add.

Use the scraper to flatten and true up the top edge of the bowl a large, flat sanding block with coarse paper will help true the edge to receive the next ring. Once the glue is dry, the remaining rings can be turned and the final profile can be refined with scrapers and coarse sanding. Don't forget your dust mask during sanding operations. Some woods are irritating or toxic. Spalted wood can contain spores that may be distributed during sanding.

Getting them in your lungs can actually cause a fungal infection in your lungs. In the photo above, I was trying to get a jump on the work because I didn't have enough hose clamps to glue all the rings at once.

I turned rings while 5 was gluing, and I turned ring 5 while 6 was still gluing up. Sand the bowl with increasingly fine grits until you've reached the surface you want. I worked up from 60 grit through , , sandpaper, and steel wool. The're hard to spot when the bowl is unfinished, but they become painfully obvious once you have two coats of finish on again, learned this one the hard way.

Since this bowl could be used for food, I used a food-safe tung oil finish. Rotate the bowl by hand as you apply the tung oil with a cloth or brush. The first coat can be fairly heavy, as the wood will absorb it quite quickly. You can apply a second coat within an hour. After the second coat, follow the instructions on the can for your finish. I waited 8 hours for the tung oil to dry and harden, and then I sanded again with grit, and applied another coat.

Repeat as necessary, using increasingly fine grits. Finally, I buffed the finish with a brown paper bag, followed by a cotton rag. This provides a very glossy finish. With the parting tool, separate the bowl from the waste block. This step is much easier if you have a partner with their hands ready to grab the bowl when parts off.

You'll see it start to wobble a bit right before it separates. Alternately, if you can't find someone to help, part it down to about an inch, stop the lathe, and cut off the rest with a coping saw or hacksaw. Turn the bowl upside down onto a soft cloth.

With a chisel, carefully shave off the button on the bottom. When the bottom of the bowl is hollowed out, a circle of the bottom disk shows through ring 2. Since the wood of ring 2 is very thin at that transition point, the circle is not perfectly round. It's not extremely noticeable, but it could be better. This hole went all the way through ring 2, and halfway into the disk of ring 1. I glued the peg into it so that it stuck out a bit, then turned it flush with a scraper.

This made the circle at the center of the bowl much sharper and well defined. I need more hose clamps. The process would have gone much faster if I had enough hose clamps to glue all the rings at once. As it was, I could do two smaller rings at once, but only do one large ring at a time. It would have gone much faster if I had enough clamps to do all the rings at once. My turning tools never seem to be sharp enough.

I don't have any sharpening jigs for my chisels, so I sharpen by hand. I'm still getting the hang of this, so it takes longer than I'd like to get a consistent edge. As a result, I don't do it as often as I really need to. Tip 6 months ago on Step 4. Glue a piece of newspaper or brown paper bag between the disk and the mounting block. Whedone it is easy to separate the two pieces with a sharp chisel.

He had a lot of catches. Insuring that his chisels were very sharp might have avoided much of this. Cutting segments with a small 8" or less chop saw: Make a thin wooden fence, apply with double sided tape. Cutting your first segment, mark the length on the fence with a knife before you cut. Long side against fence always.

Accurate reputation with few problems. Reply 4 years ago. Accurate repetition without damaged or flying segments. Reply 5 years ago. That particular piece was made with wood I salvaged. The maple was left over from another project that didn't pan out.

I believe it originally was purchased as dimensional lumber from Lowes. The darker wood was rescued from a burn pile. It was part of a piece of furniture; a headboard I believe. I ripped it into narrow boards for this project. I'm guessing it's cherry or walnut. I wish knew exactly, it was a beautiful dark color. Although it's more prep work than starting with a solid blank, the dimensional lumber is easier to source than a huge blank that has dried without cracking.

Would appreciate you opinion on something. We both have used the miter gauge on our table saws to cut angled segments.

On my last project, however, I set the miter gauge to 90 and angled the saw blade tilt to 15 degrees using the bevel setting. I used a magnetic digital angle gauge, it's very precise. The segments fit together perfectly, no sanding required. Have watched a lot of videos and read a lot, but never saw anyone using the bevel setting for cutting segment angles.

Do you see any issues doing this? Reply 6 years ago on Introduction. I may consider using your method next time. One of the problems I ran into was my impatience with the chop saw.

I have to wait for my blade to spin down after a cut, or on the upstroke, the blade will catch the segment between the blade and the stop block. Usually this results in a chunk being taken out of my segment, rendering it worthless and tossing it at high velocity to a random spot in the workshop.

Once my heart stops racing, and I've recovered the new piece of scrap, I have to start over and cut a new one, waiting for the blade to spin down properly.

Your method sounds like it would go much faster. The only problem I would run into with that process would be switching the table saw from ripping boards to cutting segments. My process, to reduce waste, was to rip a board for the widest segments, and cut segments from that until I had enough.

If I ran out, the saw was still set to rip an identical board. If I still had board left when I completed all the segments of that length, I set up the table saw for the next widest segment, and re-ripped my leftover board to that width, and started cutting segments again.

That way I didn't have to carefully measure the board length for each segment width, and if I screwed up one or two, it wasn't a show-stopper. I could keep going as long as I didn't run out of wood. Once, when I was making a small bowl, with tiny segments; I taped a small piece of bent spring steel rescued from a small tape measure to the fence of the chop saw. That way, when I completed a cut, the spring would kick the cut piece away from the saw blade.

I was able to work much faster, but I found the same trick didn't work for larger pieces. The tiny spring was too weak to move the larger pieces, and a larger spring wouldn't have laid completely flat against the fence. Instead of a spring to hold down or kick out the small cut pieces, I glued a clothespin onto a piece of wood to hold the cut pieces in place until the saw was pushed back.

I use a radial arm saw to cut my segments I cut about three quarters of an inch off the bottom half of the clothespin so only the top half of the clothespin holds the piece of wood in place. I leave the clothespin spring intact to put pressure on the piece of wood. You just have to make sure the clothespin is set back far enough so the saw blade doesn't hit it.

Interesting idea, the spring steel to kick the pieces out. Of course, we have to be careful about steel near the blade. I think both the chop saw and table saw are useful for cutting segments, depending on size and angle. It did work well for small pieces. The spring was very thin and tiny, as it was a 1" piece from the spring of a 3' pocket tape measure.

The risk to the saw was negligible, as I cut the spring with scissors. Just enough force to push it away from the fence, and thin enough that it wouldn't measurably affect the angle of the cut. Wood is porous and glue can grab onto it. In fact in some Gluing Up Wood For Turning Code strength tests, the glue held and it was the wood fibres that broke and caused the joint to fail. However beginners usually find the glue-up process to be stressful and difficult. Glue sets up quickly and if you are not prepared, will dry before you have a chance to put the two pieces of wood together.

Clamping also seems to be a worry — do I have enough clamps? And having glue squeezing out everywhere is messy and can make you lose it as you try and clean up before the glue dries. There are many glues on the market especially for woodworkers. Yellow carpenters glue is readily available, easy to work with and cleans up with water.

There are different formulations depending on where the glue is used and how much working time you need. The other recommendation is to also have a bottle of gel-type cyanoacrylate adhesive CA glue more commonly known as super glue or crazy glue on hand. This comes in handy for trickier glue joints which you might not be able to clamp easily.

You can add a few dabs of CA between the wood glue to have it temporarily grab until the wood glue has a chance to set. The mistake most beginners make is not using enough glue and not distributing it evenly.

Then what you end up with is what is called a starved joint. You basically want a thick enough coat of glue so that when you apply clamping pressure, you get a bead of glue squeezing out consistently along the length of the glue-up. The best way to find out how much is too much or too little is to experiment.

Grab two pieces of scrap wood, apply glue to both surfaces and clamp it up. Check to see what kind of glue bead you get. Too much glue will mean that you get huge drips of glue. Apply glue also requires using the right tools. When you move to other glues you might be tempted to do the same but with stickier results. The cheapest and most readily available tool is still an old toothbrush!

With it you can easily spread the glue. Other alternatives if you want to spend some money are rollers and special silicone glue brushes that you can easily clean dried glue from. Special bottles with different attachments make certain glues easier but keep in mind that these need to be cleaned each time you use them. The saying goes that you can never have enough clamps.

Clamps apply pressure to a glue joint so that the entire joint pulls together and the glue can bond to both pieces of wood. So you do need to make sure that the wood is straight and the joint closes tightly by itself without clamps. There are so many types of clamps.

For the beginner I would recommend using quick adjustable clamps. They come in various lengths. For larger projects you should get some bar clamps or pipe clamps. When clamping up, remember to use some scrap wood to protect your project from the clamp ends. Butt joints are when you literally butt up two pieces of wood, usually at a right angle to each other.

These are cheap and are really designed to hold the joint together while the glue dries. They mainly keep joints from moving laterally apart. They can be set into the wood and then filled with a suitable wood filler to effectively hide them. These are a step up from nails and the advantage is that they resist pulling forces quite well. These are harder to hide.

Often plugs are used, either matching the grain and colour of the wood in order to hide them or in a contrasting wood to emphasize the plugs.

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