%!$ Easy Diy Woodworking Bench Plans For You #!@

drill-master-portable-pocket-hole-jig-manual-edition Perhaps still to have problems. Crappie spawn in colonies and bunch up drill master portable pocket hole jig manual edition locate them and troll many passes for a bucketful of Shallow beds during full and new moon phases will produce the biggest bass all year. Innovative gear, with performance in every stitch, is designed with a single goal: for you to be able to fish better, longer and harder— in total comfort! They are a blast to catch in shallow water. Fitting lowered springs changes the steering geometry and the MGB will not, cannot, handle properly.

Jade Wilson's Soundstage The Emotions Bugs Bunny Meets the Nerdlucks Daniel's and Scarlett's Office Daffy Chase Special Forces Meeting Emergency Exit The Lucius is Rising Abstract Thought Submarine Opera Opera is originally composed by Heitor Pereira Introducing Dr.

Mary Lou Larue Mary Lou Larue's Gadgetry Arrival Break Into the Super Weapon Carl, Jerry and Kira Lucius' Lair The Monstars and Mega Toadies Jade Wilson is a Guest Host Emergency Newcomers Buster's K-Pop Gang Mayor Phlegmming's Office Everybody Stay Calm Diving Belle Taking a Plunge Realm Evacuation Leaf it to Kathy Puppycorn's Trike Meet The Emotions At the Bar contains samples of Suspect Roundup Peppermint Patty's Suite Probably easier than tearing my old rear axle assembly apart, sourcing seals, bearings etc, and reassembling.

Perhaps still to have problems. Anyway, my questions are these: 1 Do you agree that it's probable that my car's rear axle tube assemblies are ruined by the overheating? If you recommend that I tear it down to see, what do I look for in those bearing housings. Also, I only have a three eared gear puller style puller, can I pull the wheel hub off with this or need a more specialized tool?

I seem to recall hearing that the drive shafts are different but I'm not certain, and that maybe there's a clearance problem with the original style gas tank on my car. Can this substitution work? That's all I can think of but I do have a known good wire wheel rear end in my garage from a GT.

Can't use it since I don't want wires and it may not fit anyway. But it gives me a test bench to try hand or machine tool measurements that you'd suggest before I go looking at used parts.

Thanks for your advice and help with this complex set of questions. Chas Wasser. I would hunt for a the proper banjo style rear end. Plus, the GT diffs pick up a clunk after a while, and the banjo style diffs never seem to clunk.

Before I went through all this, I'd pull the half shafts and then pull the "pig" for a good inspection. If the pig is burned up, simply find another. If the wheel hub bearings are burned up, buy new ones. If the differential housing is faulty -- because one of the hub bearings spun on it -- well then, you WILL have to find another diff.

Let me know -- I do have a complete WW banjo diff that is looking for a new home -- but it's folly to make any plans until you've made a full inspection of the unit you have! Hope this little bit helps. Sorry for the delay! John I have a MGB with the rear end clunk. I was told you did an article on the problem. I can't find anything of yours on mightywords.

Is there another place I can look? Thanks Mike. John, I have a MGB 4 cyl. I have noticed a grinding sound coming from the back. However, I only hear it when the top is up. It starts in 3rd gear. If I press in the clutch, the noise remains. I jacked the back off the ground and ran the car in 3rd, the noise was there, but I could not identify exactly where it was coming from.

How hard is it to rebuild? Thanks in advance Larry Montreal Quebec Canada. This is a tardy response to your rear axle problem. Several things: First: drain the old oil and try new oil. Second: Grasp the pinion and try to shake it up and down -- there should be NO freeplay in this shaft!!! If there is, you'll have to change the front bearing. Third: You can remove the back cover of the diff and make a visual inspection of the gears -- but without the experience of having seen hundreds, you'll only note a problem if it's REALLY bad.

Fourth: The rear wheel bearings rarely fail -- leave the car in neutral and spin one wheel, then the other. Even then, hearing a problem like this may be difficult. The only difficulties are withdrawing the half shafts you need a "slide hammer" and setting the pinion back up with the correct preload -- you need a inch-pound torque wrench which will indicate 12 lb-in.

I've attached an article about the differentials -- this is NOT your problem, but indicative of the degree of difficulty you'll encounter if you disassemble the whole unit. Get back in touch if you need more info -- I'm getting more caught up with my emails. Happy New Year! John, I have a clunk in what sounds like the driver side rear end of my MGB.

It occurs when going over even very slight bumps and seems to have nothing to do with accelerating or slowing. I've checked everything for tightness and find nothing loose shocks or springs or visibly damaged. The shocks are the original but have no signs of leakage and are full of fluid. I'm left to assume it must be the shocks based on browsing the web and newsgroup postings and am prepared to either purchase new or refurbished shocks.

First, do you agree with my plan of action? Should I go with new or refurbished shocks? What are the pro's and con's of a conversion to tube shocks? I'm intrigued by the handling performance enhancement reported for tube shocks but since I'm not a very aggressive driver it might be more logical to stick with the stock shocks and maybe upgrade to the heavier fluid as you recommend on your web site.

I gather if I go with a rebuilt original shock it's important to have a reliable rebuild company and consequently I would appreciate your recommendation or better yet maybe learn that I can purchase them through University Motors. I think I owe you one from when I previously took your advise on purchasing an ANSI exhaust system but overlooked the fact that I could have actually purchased the system from you.

Thanks in advance for your assistance again! The shock is most likely NOT the problem. You should first tighten the shock to the frame as they do come loose rarely. Secondly, with the rear end of the car up off the ground supported on jack stands under the rear axle not the frame or springs , grasp the shock link and violently shake it. My guess is that the shock link is faulty -- egged out at the bottom -- that's pretty common.

To change it, remove the shock from the frame, remove the plate from the bottom of the leaf spring; remove the nuts, and strike the threaded stud with a BIG hammer and "pop," the shock link will separated from the damper arm and from the rear spring plate. Dear John Twist, I located your email from your web-site.

I have removed the wheels and hubs that hold them to the axle and then looking at the MGB workshop manual noticed a difference in the diagrams showing two axles, one for disc wheels and the other for wire wheels. Is it necessary to replace the axle shafts as well? From what I can see on the outside of the axle shafts all dimensions and components look identical, is there some internal difference? I would appreciate your assistance or direct me to a response you have already made so as not to have to repeat yourself.

Thanks again. Eric Connell Eric! Your exchange would be relatively simple if your associate had a pre 77 MGB. As it is, the exchange may be difficult. The front hubs swap back and forth -- no problem. Just make certain you have enough shims to set up the end float; and DO NOT get the hubs switched left to right.

This would not be a problem, but in the factory added a rear anti- sway bar. To make this exchange in my shop, I would cut the ears for the sway bar from the rear axle and fit the works to your car, no problem. Then, I would fit your rear axle to his car, mount the sway bar, load the rear axle to it is "just" beginning to lift the car, and weld those ears onto your old diff.

Let me know if you want more information! John Thank you very much John, I appreciate your advice. I think it is in September? John John, Good call. I've replaced the links and all the clunks are gone. The one that was obviously bad was on the opposite side I thought the noise was coming from. It had worn an oblong hole in the upper connector and was quite loose. I also replaced the rebound straps while I was at it- they were the originals and were cracked in multiple places with very little elasticity.

I don't drive the car that much but what a joy to drive now without all the rear end noise. I truly thank you for your assistance. Hi John, Anyway, a fellow has offered me a 4. Would this fit the ZB Magnette? As easy as the early MGB 3. Do I need the half shafts? Does the spline coarseness or fineness differ between these gear sets? If it will work, is it just an exchange or is there more to it?

Finally what would be the approximate roadspeed in mph per rpm? Thanks for your time, John. There are three different sets of differential wheels you can fit into these diffs: 10 spline; 25 spline; and 26 spline. You can always take the wheels from YOUR diff and insert them into the 4.

What is the recommended torque tightness on the Midget rear axle bolts.. I can't seem to get mine to stay tightened. Even tried using "airplane" bolts the ones with the plastic locking inserts but this is no good either. This seems to have squashed the new rubber pads nicely but will it be enough?

Don't want to bend the mounting brackets which it seems I can easily do if go too tight. Any thoughts or recommendations??? Thanks G. We don't put a torque on them as much as we watch what's happening with the U bolts, the rubber mounts, and the plates. I like to tighten them until I "just" begin to see the plates begin to distort. You can always double nut them to keep them from backing off. Is your problem that the nuts loosen - really?

I would like to know what is the ID of the ring and what is the OD where it fits to the flywheel? In other words what is the interference fit? The reason I ask is because I think the old ring gear was slipping because there is a ridge that the old ring gear had to get over in order to get it off. I can't imagine that ridge should be there.

It would seem to me the two dimensions should be in a manual since you should check them before installing a new ring gear. None of my 4 manuals have anything. Further, I am not certain if I have ever had to change a ring gear on a MGB since the starter motor is pre-engaged and doesn't damage the teeth on the gear during operation.

Yet, from the description of your flywheel, it certainly seems that the gear may have been slipping. I do believe that a less expensive route would be to find a used flywheel with a good ring gear , and substitute it for yours. To answer your question, I do not have those measurements. This axle came to me in pieces missing all the bearings. Two questions: I have an old shop manual that calls out special tool "pinion setting tool 18G What are the dimensions of this gauge?

Might you have generic numbers for the bearings in this diff? Alan, The critical measurement here is the distance from the center of the carrier bearings to the head of the pinion.

If that's off by 0. However, I do not know that measurement. If you want to call at the shop, today, I can give you the Timken numbers for the two pinion bearings and the carrier bearing times two , but I don't have those numbers here at the house. I am not certain where you can find that pinion depth number. Barney Gaylord has a large site at www. I've been bothered that I do not know this number.

I know I can get it from experimentation, but someone out there must have it already. Hello John, I need to replace my pinion oil seal on my tube axle. I am concerned about having to use special tools as per workshop manual.

I do have standard torque wrenches. Do you recommend this operation? If not, I am not sure who could do this here in the Milwaukee area. Thanks for you advise. Henri, This is a difficult task to do at home as you need a "special tool" and the drive flange can be very difficult to remove. Basically, you're going to remove the front flange of the differential, pry out the seal, fit a new seal, and refit the flange. The flange is sometimes stuck, stuck fast -- so you need to tap it forward with your hammer, turning it slightly between each tap so nothing is bent or stressed.

When the flange comes off, you will want to polish the contact surface with some fine grit paper or so. The old seal comes out with a pry bar or with a long, heavy screwdriver. The new one is inserted and tapped into place with a hammer -- carefully! Now comes the part that needs finesse. Reinstall the flange, fit the nut, then begin to tighten the nut, constantly feeling the restriction to movement of the front flange. You are searching for a pre-load, or resistance to turn, of about one foot pound.

The "feel" is a very slight tightening. Further, you should not use an air impact to turn the nut as there is little control. But, you have to keep the flange from turning, so you'll have to make up a tool that you can bolt to the front flange.

You could bolt this tool to the front flange, but then you wouldn't be able to feel the preload. Tighten, feel; tighten, feel; tighten,feel.

Eventually you'll begin to draw the two taper bearings close together and achieve this very slight resistance to turn. I'd be pleased to review this with you on the phone. Of course, it would make a good addition to our YouTube videos. BTW, don't forget to refill the diff with oil!

I need to replace my pinion oil seal on my tube axle. This is a difficult task to do at home as you need a "special tool" and the drive flange can be very difficult to remove. You have seen my restoration photographs and are aware of my efforts to accurately build an historic SCCA rally car on an as original platform.

Within this thread we are examining two points of originality whether the bolts and seals of the front inner fender flitch were painted; but also of the rugated paint found in that area; on the underside of the monocoque; and along the bottom of the cockpit; floor pans; and transmission tunnel. This was not a rustproofing to our knowledge but Lloyd Faust has suggested it to be soundproofing which is quite plausable since it is found in sound transmittal areas within the car's interior.

The paint does contain upon examination a tar like substance within the raised areas. John- What do you know about the inner fender panel- was it painted at Pressed Steel then added to the car in Abingdon? This would account for the unpainted bolts and rubber seal.

As far as the sound deadening paint- examples suggest application as early as throughout the production range. Lloyd Faust provided a example. What are your observations here? Our efforts are aimed at perhaps establishing a restoration manual for the MGB encompassing the years of production and as many aspects as we can. Would you be willing to become a reference for this effort? It would require email correspondence periodically as different aspects of the production are confirmed and documented.

Thank you for your time and consideration in this matter. God Bless! Tony Brown RN mgbbrown. Tony, The cars were delivered to Abingdon painted with the hood fitted. My best guess here is that the splash panels were fitted after the fenders were fitted, hence the unpainted bolts and Phillips screw at the bottom.

But the goop on the bottom? I would guess it to be rust preventative as the sound deadening was handled on top. But again, this is only my best guess. Tony, you know that I have an extensive library of factory publications, and most but not all of the confidential service memoranda sent to the dealers by the manufacturer BMC, BL, JRT. So, yes, I would be pleased to be included in this effort.

Do not forget the incredible knowledge within the British Motor Trade Association britcar. I noticed you still have Caroline listed in the address. This past Saturday was the third anniversary of her death. Thanks for all your work to ensure that our cars are original! I purchased the car many years ago because it is virtually rust free and I have never liked the colour.

I have the engine out to rebuild and am considering painting the engine bay with a new colour so that when and if! I repaint the car, that work will be already done. Peter, Some guys like redheads. Some guys like blondes.

Citron is one of those rare earth colors like mirage, aqua, limeflower, or tundra. In the day it was called snot yellow 'cause it's not green and it's not yellow but with all these years passed, it is rarely seen and fascinating. I can tell you that changing the color the car is a very difficult job to do correctly. The trunk must be changed and the interior has to be removed to cut in around all the door jambs etc.

I'm "Mr Original. The factory code is BLVC You were referred to me as someone whom could possibly help with a paint code question. I've gotten paint code charts on the internet for DuPont that's the paint my body shop uses. According to the chart Tartan Red is Dupont I went to the Dupont automotive paint distributor yesterday to get a "sampling" of the paint and they said that did not come up in the computer. Their Tartan Red for British Leyland was I am confused.

I want to paint the car the right color but I am not sure of the info I have. Can you direct me? Thanks for your help, Gaye Hanley.

It would appear that there is a typo in the information that you have. I would trust that the paint supplier will provide the correct color. The vagaries of on-site mixing, even with "computer controlled mixing" will result in different colors, let alone the temperature of the spray booth, humidity, etc. Hope everything works out well for you! Any idea how to get the hood open?

Thank You Clarke. Good luck! While you are having some difficulty with this, imagine the problem of a TR6 owner whose cable has broken. His problem is truly horrid as the bonnet opens from the back and the cable and latch are totally hidden from view! John, Thanks for answering my Questions about restoring my existing Wire Wheels. I have a few more questions and would greatly appreciate your response. Who do you recommend purchasing after market bumpers from.

Scarborough Faire, Moss or Victoria British? I have been told Scarborough Faire has the most original looking bumpers on the market. Moss told me they just re-tooled their bumpers for a better fit. Do you have a preference for fit and finish? Who do you recommend purchasing the front grille from? Moss or Victoria British. Of the three parts suppliers do you have a preference on all the chrome pieces. Vents, badges..

I called British Wire Wheel and they told me about tubeless sealing on certain wire wheels. Do you recommend tubeless sealing or sticking with tubes? Can you give me a recommendation on tires. Thank you Cliff. I do have over messages in my in box, if you can believe that! We do most of our purchasing from Moss and our generally satisfied with their parts, but the chrome parts from any source are problemsome.

Buy the repro overriders if the costs of re-chroming are exorbitant. The same goes for the grille -- especially the grille!! The new grilles are not formed properly so the body MUST be fitted to the grille, not the other way around. The smaller parts are more easily purchased new rather than chromed, but the original parts are ALWAYS of better quality.

The windscreen frame must be rechromed, as new parts are not available. I prefer the Michelin XZX, but those are not easily available. Hello John, I really enjoy your MG web pages. I have a technical question. The trunck lock on my 74 MGB roadster is broken. The botton pushes in but there is no spring back and the latch doesn't relaease. Thanks in advance, Kevin Gervais. You may find the first option, as disgusting as it seems, to be the easier. Just DRILL out the center of the pushbutton -- then by wrenching the guts of the pushbutton completely out, you can gain access to the lever in the latch.

The second operation requires a lot of finesse. One upright is about four inches, the other upright about three feet. The base of the "U" is the distance between the left reverse light and the latch. Remove the left reverse light, and work this tool into place. Fiddle for two minutes or four hours, trying to press the latch lever rearwards. It's helpful to have another MGB around the continue to look at and practice on another MGB whose trunk opens normally, of course.

Our most difficult opening job was Rita's MGB -- she had no less than 20 pairs of shoes in the trunk! John - I am seeking some advice regarding sheet-metal fabrication to replace some rusted panels on my YT. I have purchased new sills from NTG in England, but the resemblance between those and the originals is not totally clear to me.

At best, they don't quite replace all the material that needs repair. While I've done a fair amount of welding on the B having recently reconstructed a badly rusted '65 pull-handle shell the YT is a whole new kettle of fish. I am committed to doing this work myself, even if it means learning how to fabricate compound curves. So far it appears the problems are in the sill areas and below the spare wheel opening - the wings and running boards appear to be in excellent condition - although I've only removed those on the left side.

Time is not a factor and I am only interested in learning to do it correctly. Two questions: 1. Do you know of a newer address for Jerry Keller? Do you have some other advice or suggestions? I can do this on my own - and if necessary, I can figure out how to do it without advice, but it seems a shame to re-invent the wheel.

If somebody out there has the experience and advice, I'd be happy to pay for it. It's a case of "Give a man a fish and he eats for a day, teach him how to fish and he eats for a lifetime.

In all cases, I have asked for the same advice. I have also asked for advice on the MG list mgs autox. It seems nobody has had this experience. You've always been so helpful - many thanks for any advice you can give me. Allen Bachelder. We just happen to have a YT in the shop right now.

If you want some digital pix, I can send them. Good luck, Allen! I am searching for a radiator grill shell for a MGTD. Do you have one or know of someone who may? Thank you, Hubert Talley. Also, visit www. John, Thanks again to you and your staff for the technical seminar. What more could you ask for in February! I talked to Lisa about what I had found in the area of painting systems and she suggested I cover you with the specifics for you files That got me looking around since my B was previously painted New Racing Green and I wanted to repeat the color.

I found ICI--can't remember if it's Imperial Chemical Industries or Imperial Coating Industries, but was told that they are a British firm and that they were the paint supplier to MG as well as most other British automotive manufactures. They had what I was looking for and told me they could provide virtually any color used by MG. The closest distributor to me and probably you also is an outfit called Single Source in Troy, Michigan. Their technical man is named Brian and he can be reached at Don't know if this is new to you but thought you'd want to know if it is.

Ted Barron. I am having a tough time finding a spot welder to economically rent or purchase. Thanks John Bries P. Your website is great! Grind off the excess. Now the weld is just as a pot weld, very strong, and the draught excluder will fit. Contact him for the good stuff. No one else's really fits well. There is always something more to do. Do you restore wiper motors for this vintage car? John Schmale Mahomet, Illinois. I have been successful in rebuilding the wiper motors.

I have yet to wind an armature, but that will probably occur this winter, as I have several which need that degree of repair. Send yours up and I'll take a look at it. Hello, John. Thank you in advance for taking the time to respond to my inquiry.

I am at the end stage of the restoration of a MGB roadster. I have located, restored, and painted an original Works fiberglass hardtop as a part of this restoration. I have searched far and wide for a source for the following seals for the hardtop: i the rubber header rail seal; ii the rubber seal between the hardtop and the rear deck of the car; and iii the seals between the hardtop and the windows of the car. Everyone seems to have the header rail.

No one seems to have the other two. Any ideas or suggestions? Perhaps you have one for sale? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Greg Chait Atlanta, Georgia. They advertise heavily in the British Magazines, and I've found that they have many, many items not available here.

Perhaps they have a website? Don't know. Find them through www. Rick Gregg. My experience with MGA and T type floorboards is that they are marine plywood with either five or seven plies. It's been a long time since I've tried to cut any -- I buy them from Moss, now, as the new ones come sized correctly, they look nice, and they're chamfered and routed where they should be.

I have no idea what wait I'm looking at lifting and supporting. Can you give me a ballpark estimate of the weight? I will need the body to be supported by saw horses that will allow the chassis to move out from under the supported body and back again for storage. What height clearence do I need for the saw horses? Your help will be appreciated.

Thanks Marty Schlining. While we have four MGAs at the shop in various stages of disassembly, including one coup? Let me "guess" at the clearance you'll need -- three feet on the underside of the saw horses. We support MGA bodies all the time with saw horses, so there's no problem here. You'll need six healthy, virile men to left the body off the chassis -- all wearing gloves to protect their hands from the sharp edges.

Marty, this is the best advice I can give you on this MGA. One part at a time. I've been at this for thirty years; I've seen a lot of home restorations started and many fewer completed. Time is the most precious commodity -- don't waste it trying to remember where things go.

Rebuild one part at a time. Need complete chassis measurement specs for CarBench chassis straightening mahine. Car's chassis number is GHD G. I do have a set of measurements for the MGB, but cannot send them easily on this machine don't know how , but would be willing to fax them to you.

However, I have technical seminars starting next week Wednesday and those last for three weeks -- it's combat time for me and I won't have an extra minute. But, if you send the number, I'll try to get it out to you on Monday.

Upon successful registration of your card, the credit will be applied to your Amazon. To redeem the credit, make subsequent eligible purchase s using any valid payment method. While supplies last. Enter this Amazon promo code at checkout. Enter Amazon promo code at checkout. This offer is available for a limited time and must be activated by p. PT April 2, and completed by p. PT April 16, This offer is targeted and will only display in the browser extension if you are eligible.

No coupon code required, price reflects discount. Enter coupon code at checkout. Price reflects discount. Buy 2, Get 1 Free Offer Verified! Add 3 items from the selection on the page to your Shopping Basket via the "Add to Basket". When you're done shopping, click the "Proceed to Checkout" button.

The Offer will be automatically applied to your total customer order value at checkout if you are eligible. CODE Coupon. Just enter this Amazon coupon code at checkout. Each coupon you want to redeem requires you to clip each individual offer to your Amazon account. Your coupon discount will apply to your first order only. Coupon discounts are automatically applied at purchase to orders made through virtual Dash Buttons.

You do not need to clip and redeem a coupon to receive the coupon savings. Terms and Conditions: Coupons are valid for a limited time only.

Laguna 1412 5g Outdoor Wood Planter Ideas 3d