5mm Oak Dowel Year,Cheap Custom Wood Projects Zip,Soft Close Drawer Slides Not Smooth Root,Makita Router Kit Home Depot 100 - Downloads 2021
Overall size: x x Bowl size: x x Cut-out size: download cut-out file Cabinet width: recommended. Overall sizes: x x or x x Bowl sizes: x x or x x Cut-out size: utilise template Cabinet width: or Overall size: x x Bowl size: x x Cut-out size: utilise template Cabinet width: Pop up waste, flush cover.
SKX Spark 1. Antea 1. Neptune Slim-Top 1. Experience the easiest way to enjoy fresh water from the smallest, most effective water filter in the world. The Franke Vital Capsule System lets you enjoy water that not only tastes better but is also much healthier. The delicately proportioned bevel defines this solid Ash framed door with its veneered centre panel. Rimano is a modern classic comfortably at ease in every style of home. A choice of 18 painted colours including new Sky shown here.
Available with handles, handle-less or handle-less tip-on. Exclusively from Crown Imperial. Overall size: x mm Bowl size: x x mm Cabinet size: min. Reversible Overall size: x mm Bowl size: x x mm Cut-out size: x mm Cabinet size: mm Waste included Arctic White or Graphite. Rapid 1. Reversible Overall size: x mm Bowl size: x x mm Cut-out size: x mm Cabinet size: mm Waste included.
Overall size: x mm Bowl size: x x mm Cabinet width: mm Revolution waste included Left or right handed Stainless steel. Deca 50 overall size: Overall size: x mm Bowl size: Overall size: mm x mm x mm Bowl size: mm x mm x mm Flush fitting undermount design Minimum base unit: mm Can also be used as an inset Plumbing kit included Waste, overflow and sink clips included Granite Black, Granite White, Gunmetal Grey, Granite Graphite Grey or Granite Champagne.
The Nano technology used gives the Alchemist collection even more durability. Food and liquids can be easily wiped away prolonging the finish. We have chosen some of our most popular sinks and taps to launch this collection and added these special finishes. All sinks and taps are manufactured from Stainless Steel. Solid stainless steel Suitable for high or low pressure systems Fitted with flow aerator Available in 3 finishes. Ceramic 1. Deep bowl design Minimum base unit: mm Waste and overflow inc.
Suitable for a waste disposal unit. Deep bowl design main bowl Minimum base unit: mm Waste and overflow inc. Undermount 1.
Left or right large bowl mm x mm x mm main bowl mm x mm x mm half bowl Minimum base unit: mm Powder coated underside Waste and overflow inc. Left or right large bowl mm x mm x mm main bowl mm x mm x mm half bowl Minimum base unit mm Powder coated underside Waste and overflow included Suitable for a waste disposal unit.
Reversible mm x mm x mm main bowl mm x mm x mm half bowl Minimum base unit mm Powder coated underside Waste and overflow included Suitable for a waste disposal unit. Left hand large bowl mm x mm x mm main bowl mm x mm x mm half bowl Minimum base unit: mm Powder coated underside Waste and overflow inc.
Internal size: mm x mm x mm deep Powder coated underside Waste included Sink can be used as undermount, inset or flush fit. Internal size: mm x mm x mm deep Minimum base unit: mm Powder coated underside Waste and overflow included Suitable for a waste disposal unit Sink can be used as undermount, inset or flush fit.
Left or right large bowl mm x mm x mm main bowl mm x mm x mm half bowl Minimum base unit: mm Waste and overflow inc. Internal size: mm x mm x mm deep Minimum base unit: mm Powder coated underside Waste and overflow included Suitable for a waste disposal unit.
Essentials taps carry a warranty period of 5 Years covering manufacturing and material defects. Hot taps carry a 2 year warranty and the tank carries a 1 Year warranty. Includes: 2 x basket strainer wastes in specified finish, waste connection kit, 2 x brass plated overflows in specified finish and 2 x overflow connection kits. Easily refillable Solid high quality construction 2 year warranty ml plastic tank capacity 80mm dispenser height from surface diameter hole required.
Elegant swivel spout Two lever dispenser Auto shut off valve 2. Elegant swivel spout One lever dispenser Auto shut off valve 2. Perhaps we seek distressed or tarnished metals teamed with accents of turquoise or orange. Perhaps we seek neutrals and subtle surfaces with an injection of acid colour. Perhaps we seek natural shades of coffee and stone. Perhaps we seek to combine older, cherished items with new ones to create a re-found shabby chic.
Whether you aspire to sweeping curves or a two-toned breakfast bar, contemporary linear sink modules or the nostalgia of a traditional.
All worksurfaces are supplied with factory machined face and edges, all finished by hand. We cut and hand finish the worksurface face and edges for you, so they are delivered ready to fit, saving you valuable installation time and money. Smooth flowing lines, even across the joint. Every joint is hygienic and seamless to touch.
With fabrication built-in, saves valuable time when it comes to preparation and installation. Select an undermounted stainless steel or acrylic sink from the collection. Factory pre-fabricated for easy and quick installation. Our Custom Service department specialises in producing the extraordinary. Rather than fabricating on-site, bespoke worktops can be manufactured in our factory as per your unique kitchen designs With Custom Service, we can locate your sink and drainer grooves anywhere, often to the far left or far right of the worktop.
Requests for larger island sizes are welcomed, these are achieved by seamlessly joining two pieces of solid surface together. Works Service Rather than fabricating on-site, bespoke worktops can be manufactured in our factory as per your unique kitchen designs… … we call it Works Service. All of our and sinks and drainer grooves are located centrally within the sink module. With Works Service, we can locate your sink and drainer grooves anywhere, often to the far left or far right of the worktop.
Sink and drainer grooves are located to the far left of this bespoke island. Non-standard worktop configurations are fabricated easily in-house, come with factory-finished surfaces and are ready for installation. We often receive requests for island worktops that are larger than our standard sizes. For these, we need to join two pieces of solid surface together ensuring a solid and seamless joint.
Hob cut-outs are prepared easily on-site making larger size island worktops ideal for food preparation and meal times. Price confirmed against receipt of drawing. Please note when choosing a product above the?? Pre drilled for tap. Includes brushed stainless steel bowl, basket strainer, fitting clips and sealant. Includes brushed stainless steel main bowl and separate small bowl, basket strainers, fitting clips and sealant. Pre-drilled for tap. Includes combined 1.
Includes factory fitted single bowl acrylic sink and basket strainer. Includes factory fitted combined 1. Includes factory fitted 1. Each worktop has the sink cut out, drainer section and drainer grooves hand finished with fixing locations also in situ to make your installation as easy as possible.
Please note: sink module prices do not include price of Franke sink. Wall panels can be simply glued to an existing drywall, any sound flat wall or directly over tiles. Available in 4 standard lengths and 3 standard widths, be sure to install solid surface bathroom worktops. With a year guarantee against. Installation, care and maintenance DVD available on request.
Display stand available on request. See swatch page for details. To do this,. Where applicable we finish the edges and even include some modules with curves to match kitchen furniture. Curved, edged on four sides worktops and sinks modules are not packed with extra edging as standard.
If required, please order separately. All worktops, breakfast bars and sink modules are available in 28, 42 and 54mm thicknesses and includes 3m length of heat resistant tape to be used around hob cut outs.
Additional edging supplied. Other sink modules are handed by the large bowl. Pre drilled for tap and pop-up waste. Will fit into mm base cabinet. Includes brushed stainless steel bowl, popup waste, fitting clips and sealant. Will fit into base cabinet openings over mm. Includes brushed stainless steel bowl, pop-up waste, fitting clips and sealant. Includes brushed stainless steel main bowl and separate small bowl, basket strainer, pop-up waste, fitting clips and sealant.
Includes factory fitted single bowl acrylic sink and pop-up waste. All sink modules come complete with sink. Other modules are handed by the large bowl. You are able to cut these yourself if you require. Fantastic longevity providing the equivalent life to having the lights switched on continuously for 5 hours a day, every single day for over 27 years!
Not only does each light benefit from a superb lumen output ensuring bright illumination, each light runs off 24V making them exceptionally efficient to run and providing maximum light performance. Stylish, stainless steel triangular design Perfect under cabinet task lighting Fully diffused - no visible dots 1. Brightness and consistency of the lights is of exceptional standard and provides a true reflection of natural white light similar to daylight.
Or use in glass fronted cabinets for mood lighting. Wattage: 1. Can be used under kitchen cabinets as a task light or inside glass fronted wall units to introduce mood lighting. Mount under cabinets for superb task lighting Use a warm white LED to replicate the halogen triangle lamp. An Integrated LED shelf profile that can transform a normal wooden shelf into an illuminated shelf. Compatible with all existing receivers. Required to run: SE - 2.
Required to run: SE 2. Accessories: The integrated PIR sensor enables the unit to stay lit when movement is detected, or when the cabinet door is opened. Solinas Black Pendant Light A striking crushed crystal, matte black industrial style cylindrical pendant light. Drivers are needed to power low voltage LED lighting.
All Sensio drivers are colour coded to simplify the process of selecting the appropriate driver for your lighting requirements.
The authentic designs are also supported by new matt surface, and decors that go all the way into the bevels. T-moulding Carpet transition Hard surface reducer End moulding Stair nose moulding, flush Stair nose moulding.
Good in rooms with more frequent traffic. This fold-out underlay improves walking comfort and is easy-to-install. A very durable and strong underlay that reduces reflected walking sound to a minimum.
Also ideal to be installed above floor heating. A good basis for rooms with less traffic like a bedroom or attic. This underlay absorbs reflected walking sound and increases the walking comfort. Integrated vapour barrier with an overlap and tape strip included. The underlay with three times the moisture vapour resistance as traditional PE film. Suitable for all materials and substrates.
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Accommodation of Standard Technical Measures It is Company policy to accommodate, and not interfere with, standard technical measures it determines are reasonable under the circumstances, i. Plus emails with questions about guns that need identifying or my opinion on what they are or what to do to them — all good and interesting stuff. Also that will block any more furniture building for the time being….. Once you get out to the Outer Hebrides its pretty much still shut down — we did visit a couple of marinas that were nominally closed, but that just seemed to be no loos or showers, and no charge — not a problem as the boat had a super shower and we could still get water.
We visited 6 islands in total and only had to miss three or four days due to strong wind forecasts from the wrong direction.
Really nice boat from Alba Sailing — the only charter company left on the North West. So back to work — getting ready to move the kitchen temporarily while I demolish the old one! I also have to pick up a gun and get some practice as I have several shoots at the beginning of the season. More details of the sailing on separate post. Tucked up in Loch Maddy while the wind blew 30 knots not while I took the photo!
The cockpit tent came in for a lot of use. Son Tom is back in Cambridge and he and Giles brewed up a plot to build a woodfired pottery kiln in our back garden since neither has the room.
I guess I will have to spend the next couple of weeks preparing to move the kitchen into the gun workshop, so we can destroy the existing kitchen. May be a week or so before I get back to this computer! I just finished the small table for the new kitchen that will have a marble top. I seem to be busy all the time and can only steal moments to go into the gun workshop.
There will be a problem in the Autumn when as it will have to be turned into a temporary kitchen while the main one is destroyed and rebuilt! Not sure how I will manage — I may take my gun activities out to my shed where my metalworking machinery resides, but that has no heating so will not be very comfortable for sitting still for hours. Another problem to tackle! The cheap ones come with less facilities, and soft start on a router is almost essential in my books.
Here are a couple of early test pieces for a simple flintlock engraving;-. Both lock tails are based on classic designs — the bird got rather a long beak a slip! Here isa photo of the cabinet — its made of oak with elm panels in the door and handles made of bog oak;-.
It is black but still shows the grain, and cuts and polishes well. Here are a couple of photos ;-. I also got a request for gravers and sharpeners so I had better get myself in gear.
Yesterday I made a panelled cabinet door for the kitchen units — lots of messing about with the home made router table — height of cutter is set by an old car jack! Anyway I put an Osma Polyx finish on at lunchtime so had to vacate that workshop to avoid dust. So I retreated to the gun workshop for the first time in 3 months, and made some more gravers.
It takes a good half hour to grind and handle one, so I managed 4 and still had time for a swim! Ive been putting up some trellis in the back garden — why is all the stuff you can buy a horrible ginger colour?
I actually had a bit of a break from the units and installed 4 lengths of trellis on top of the garden wall sawing up the 4 x 4 posts was good exercise for the arms. I am working hard to make up for the ravages of Covid — I think I lost more than 10 Kg. I am told that I no longer look like a walking skeleton! I struggled a bit to get my head round the dovetail router jig — its fine when you are used to it, but I made a few mistakes when I started and had to remake a few bits.
The fronts are Oak, but the rest is made from Cherry from old library shelves from a Cambridge College — I got a load when a big library was gutted and did our library shelves and paneling, but I still have 40 or 50 shelves left — perfect for internal joinery and about 30 years old so very stable! We are desparately hoping that our yacht charter in Scotland can go ahead in mid July — probably touch and go, in the lap of the gods, or Nicola Sturgeon at any rate.
I am busy clearing out my shed so I can gt on with my kitchen units — so far I have come across the mumified remains os 2 rats and assorted other evidence of their existence! Anyway a skip is called for to dispose of the rubbish that is accumulating in the yard. The weather makes me glad we got the swimming pool up before they ration water! My daily swims show up just how unfit Covid 19 left me — I get breathless after a couple of lengths, I think last year I could do 10 straight off and 60 in a session.
It is getting better every day so there is hope. It looks like we are able to shoot clays again — with the proviso that we book slot — I guess we still only get one companion to button for us! I have been busy lately — more or less back to full activity. Richard and I installed the beautiful solid oak back door and frame — I swear in a hundred years the door frame will be holding the house up!
It is amazing how much stuff one keeps just in case! Giles and I put our 10m long swimming pool up last Monday and it is now filled with 30 tonnes of water. It is just a very big plastic bag, and is now 12 or 13 years old — each year we erect it with trepidation in case it has sprung an invisible leak.
This year it lost 1 inch in level overnight, but it turned out to be a leak underneath the pump due to a perished rubber elbow. No chance of getting a replacement, so a bit of attention with rubber adhesive and self amalgamating tape might just work — will fit it tomorrow and see.
Part of the leak anguish is that you can no longer buy such a long bag pool, and 10m is only just long enough to swim to and fro in. Apart from trying to keep the garden under control I have restarted the Kitchen renovation project — The main phase of taking down the ceiling and digging up the floor is scheduled for later in the year, but I am currently designing the custom units and making up some trial bits to check my construction techniques.
So far I have made one drawer with dovetail joints- and run off a few trial frame sections. Before Covid 19 hereinafter referred to as BC I ordered up a load of oak and my joiner friend Richard started to make a new back door to my deisgn.
I had a few years ago lowered the outside ground level by about 6 inches so the threshold will also be lowered in the new door. I had slightly arbitrarily decided by how much to lower the cill, very fortunately when I took out the old cill and the wall below it, I found that the very solid flint foundation were about 2cm below the bottom of the new cill. Not sure what I would have done if the foundations had been any higher, as I dont expect Richard would have relished shortening the door frame and door at this stage.
Anyway it goes in on Tuesday next. I found a splendid company in Norfolk who make hand made pamments unglazed clay tiles -at least the daughter seems to make the pammets either spelling is OK and the mother runs the office — a nice family business and they are made in Norfolk, not Spain or Eastern Europe.
As you might guess they are not free! Fortunately its not a very big Kitchen — about 14 ft square — they should be made by early September. The Coronavirus rumbles on — we seem to lag behind most of Europe in getting ourselves sorted out — while the WHO and every other country recognised a suite of symptoms we stuck to 2, then rather grudgingly and only after being shown up by an academic on the radio, added two more — still well behind the rest of the developed world — well done Boris!!
Giles and I discussed back and forth how to do the camera zoom, and I settled on a model servo linked to a short arm fixed to the camera lens, and did a few sketches.
Giles 3D printed them for me and I had a go at fixing them up. It should have worked but the torque required is really high and would probably need a high torque servo that draws a lot of current which is not really compatible with a system that is supposed to run off 4 AA cells! Anyway I think the project is now on hold awaiting inspiration!
See photo below. What a fantastic day — just like the middle of summer, it felt like a sin to go indoors, especially as the forecast for the next few days is cold and cloudy!
Torque required to turn zoom is too much for my little servo, but a bigger one would consume too much power — stalemate! Finally getting my mojo back! Finished the next post Covid youtube — it was something I could do without getting too flaked out! Not sure how many more will happen. I started a little project — my camera for all my stuff is a Canon M50 and I thought it would be good if I could zoom it without touching it.
All it needs is a small, geared electric motor coupled to the zoom barrel. I have got a suitable geared micro motor but the drive is the challenge. I tried with an O ring on a small pulley on the motor rubbing on the barrel, and with a longer O ring round the barrel of the camera and the motor pulley but the friction in the zoom is greater than the drive friction.
He has an M50 too so should be able to see the problem. Still thinking about the next one — quite a lot of work to find all the examples I need!
Had a few messages from regular viewers of this blog wishing me well. I did a couple of takes for the next one on my Post Office pistols — just need to check them out and do the edits and add some stills and it will be ready to upload.
I am now trying to sort out in my mind what to do for the third Covid video- possible the history of the devopment of the flintlock in England to or something like that — cover all the little tweaks that made the English gun makers the best in the World. I am a bit weak on the early stuff but I do have a wheellock without the gun. Still making progress- nice walk today and my appetite is getting better.
Just read that it takes 12 to 28 days to build immunity to a second infection — I hope that is from when you get it, not from the end of it! Anyway, a big thank you to everyone who has sent me good wishes — It does make a difference. My first post Covid video is now complete — I sound a bit breathless, which is, I guess, a leftover from the virus — it seems to come and go a bit.
Anyway its in Videos on this site and on you tube. I took my car out to the local shop for a bottle of milk this morning first time in 7 weeks and boy did I feel daring! Did two sections of my pistol video — just got to sort out a bit of editing and it will be done.
Feeling a lot better and went for walk — not in the garden. Might see if the car will go tomorrow. Daring stuff!! Must be feeling better to post two days running! Still sorting the pistol video — I am still a bit breathless so tried a draft. Probably Ok. They are lovely little pistols and get me wondering about their early history. There must be more information on them somewhere — as far I can tell there are not many around — at a guess somewhere between half a dozen and a dozen, unless there is a hoard in the National Firearms Archive or some other similar collection.
And still here, Getting to feel like doing things at last, which is a big change — still not up to speed yet as I lost a lot of weight, but definite progress. I thought I would make a couple of youtube videos as we are all living our lives through the internet now. My first targets are the two Public Office pistols from Bow Street.
He mentioned that the Bow Street run Horse Patrol started in, but illustrated a pistol engraved for the Dismounted Horse Patrol and dated One assumes that the Mounted Horse Patrol was founded about the same time as the Dismounted? Anyway I hope to have a convincing story soon. Slowly, Slowly making progress. I am now spending time downstairs, rather than spend all day in bed, which makes a nice change.
And the nice weather helps too. It will be some weeks before I am out and about though. Covid 19 is a lot nastier than is generally acknowledged if you are oldish or vulnerable or male, so redouble your efforts to avoid it. Thats my biggest problem — a coupe of hours a day is all I can get….. The nett result is that I am having to do a bit of urgent remodelling of the house — sticking a new staircase in my workshop for one thing and turning the workshop into another kitchen — fortunately nothing major, but no serious work for a week or so!
I was contemplating escaping to our little cottage in Cornwall when it seemed that it might only be for three months, but the reality is that there is really no clear endpoint. Either way the best guess is that we are in it for at least a year or 18 months……………. And the food too……or maybe just believe the supermarkets when they say it will all pan out in the end………… Oh and we got our new head teacher — we were delighted to appoint the deputy who had been acting head for a while.
I hope to get a moment to do some gun stuff but the pressures build… Plus some of the old film cameras I put on ebay are selling. It will be interesting to see how the kids get on with it. No-one has come up with any suggestions for the photos below — I have no ideas!
I made a couple of bits for the lathe so that it kicked out the traverse if it was about to run into the end of its travel — I have had damage a couple of times when the saddle had hit the buffer, resulting in a bent gear shaft and a sheared pin — I think it will now work, although I did run a tipped tool into the chuck while setting it up — bang went the tip.
Anyway I nearly froze to death in the shed so it was a bit of a rush job. I went to look at a pile of oak planks that a friend has — they are warped like mad but I may be able to find enough straight pieces for drawer fronts.
Looks like the kitchen is going to be an all consuming project for the summer! Went in search of old style flooring tiles pamments for the kitchen floor. One place was a large industrial barn on what had once been a farm with one person surrounded by massive piles of drying tiles and fired tiles and kilns and clay — turned out she did the whole thing herself — nice tiles too — think I might use them — a lot cheaper than sourcing antique pamments which cost an arm and a leg, and are difficult to get in large enough batches to cover 20 square meters.
Driving to Norfolk was a nightmare in the heavy rain — worse coming back because the wind was blowing from the east and sending the spray from lorries across the fast lane. Geoff collected the last of the Smiths that I had converted to conventional nipples — he is threatening to go on a shoot with all three guns and two loaders for an experiment in 19th century shooting — he will have to hurry before lead is banned! I sold the pair of Belgian percussion pistols today, which was nice, although I can see all my spare cash being channeled into the kitchen renovation!
Still after 26 years it does need an overhaul…. I went to see a possible shoot yesterday as two of our best muzzle loading game shoots have closed. I got the oak for a new back door today — my joiner friend had advised I got laminated engineered oak, but to my surprise one of the uprights arrived seriously bowed so will have to be changed. It is a major project as the old and fragile lath and plaster ceiling will have to come down and be repaired or replaced with similar, and the floor will have to be dug out to a depth of m.
Anyone want to buy an 11 bore Westley Richards double percussion — nice…. I collected my Dremel cutting disks from Screwfix this morning — really useful service, I ordered them on Saturday and they were ready to pickup locally by noon Sunday.
The first was moderately OK — I cut a nice slot across the nipple around 2 m. In the end I cut the slot a bit deeper and broke off half the nipple top with the punch and hammer and whacked the rest with the punch until it started to turn — by the time I got it out the nipple was a complete mess, but most importantly the gun was completely untouched by all the messing about. This means ALWAYS paying attention to the holding and fixing of the part you are working on — damage usually results from careless handling or inadequate holding.
In getting the nipples out I held the hooks on the breech in my lead lined vice jaws with the barrel supported on a padded surface, with a bit of cord to stop the barrel turning and pulling the hooks out of the vice, and with a pad under the barrel near the jaws in case it dropped out.
That meant I had both hands free to work on the nipple, and could use any necessary force without risking the barrel coming free. It now seems clear so I fitted the new titanium nipples and its ready to go. I nearly got to the point of drilling out the nipple, but that is a very last resort as it is likely to damage the threads, and that would make the gun less safe to shoot.
I must check the other two guns for blocked flame passages. At this point it had just started to turn, having broken the rust joint.
Note the fracture surface — the nipple was pretty hard too. We eventually got the nipples out of one of them, wrecking my tool on the way, and got all 4 noses out with some difficulty using a Mole wrench and lead sheet to protect the old nose — one needed a burst of flame to get it hot then a drop of water to cool it suddenly. But we completely failed to shift the nipples from one of the guns, even with heat.
Anyway, a bit of fiddling and I was able to knock out the broken bits and put in a new one.. All working now. I put together Nicks little double barrelled pistol — the one I had trouble browning. Its now quite a pretty pistol and the cocks line up and work! The other two Smiths are coming over tomorrow, so I can see if all the bits fit. Not sure how much to charge, always difficult……. The only problem, if problem it is, is that my knurling tool ran properly in 2 of the noses, and in the other 2 it doubled up the indentations so made an even finer knurl.
Anyway one of the trio of Smiths will have a finer knurl on its noses. I do not intend to remake them! When got there I found that they had changed my appointment without telling me, so it was all in vain! I got frustrated with the photographs I was getting — not sure if it was vibration from manually pressing the button, or limits of the Canon lens, so I reverted to my very expensive fixed focus Canon Macro lens and got bluetooth firing, and got much sharper pictures.
I also wanted to see how long it took to engrave lettering. The whole bottom line from marking the lines and setting out the lettering to going over it and tweaking any mistakes took 15 minutes — about 12 minutes for the main cutting and tweaking.
Letters are 2 m. Over time these factors changed enormously, although its somewhat difficult to look back and judge early antiques.
There was a period in the 18th century where the attention was in the silver mounts and there was often very little in the way of engraving — elaborate silver mounts must have been an important differentiator to mark out better quality weapons and clearly added value.
Even then my guess is that the cost of engraving was not too far out of the traditional fraction of cost. This was coupled with a 24 hour turnround time! A top engraver might work on gun for 3 months, so the cost probably accounts for a bigger fraction of the overall cost. I got into this when I was thinking about lettering of guns and how long it took to do — I think all those 18th and 19th century guns were engraved very rapidly without a great deal of finesse — when you look under a microscope at almost any engraving of the period, you see great economy of effort!
Lettering is usually cut with 2 or 3 strokes for stressed verticals and one cut for unstressed, and all letters are cut in one cut direction before the work is rotated to cut any other cut directions. One interesting thing is that I have a fired cap, and the central pimple is blown through — I wonder if that is designed to happen. Now here is a puzzle for visitors to this blog — what are these caps for? They seem to have a healthy load of priming?
He raised the issue that many of those pistols had been rather badly re-engraved with the Public Office and Bow Street attribution and had just been plainParker overcoat pistols — he also thought it unlikely that a genuine one would remain unissued — both good points. Anyway it made me get the pistols out and look very carefully at all the engraving under my microscope at x30 magnification — this convinced me that all the engraving on both pistols is completely original and all by the same hand.
The slight corrosion and rust build-up in the letters, and the slight rounding of the edges is exactly what I see on old guns where there is no question of faking. The pistols may have been issued and had very light use — there is some wear on the steel, but other than a few scratches from slips of the turnscrew and a little wear to the corners of the barrel they are matching and only lightly used — a fine pair of rare pistols.
Even the insides of the locks are pristine. I cannot find any figures for how many pairs Parker supplied, but he was the sole? Thinking about engraving lettering and re-cutting or re-engraving on antique firearms, I came to the conclusion that every gun engraver of the day must have done the same things over and over again, and very quickly too, so that he or she?
Its still true that one develops particular hand movements and tend to produce lettering and scrolls that have a particular look. You can adopt different styles, but it tends to require more fiddling to get it right and that shows. I did a bit of simple engraving on a few parts for Dick — touching up a brass lock, and putting scrolls down a cock, and a line round a pair of small cocks and engraving a couple of cock screws.
Here is the splendid old yacht I bought back too……. Collapsed for 24 hrs when I got back though -bug but not the coronovirus.
Also a load of old cameras — Pentax- and lenses — they do have some marginal value so I suppose they will have to go on ebay. A number of gun jobs have appeared — mostly small engraving jobs for Dick. George was killed in the second World War in He was quite young by the standards of most experts — he died at the age of 39 — so I suppose its not surprising that its not perfect in every detail but overall its very well worth a read and fairly cheap second hand as there was at least one reprint.
Its about 17 thousand times as far to the moon minimum , miles which usually takes 3 days……. And Bob was expected to return to earth at 5 p. Elon Musk eat your heart out! Not sure why — probably I let up in pressure on the drill and the titanium work hardened and the drill snatched when it restarted? I did manage to make 2 in the end — you have to put just enough pressure on the drill to keep it cutting and not stop the feed, which is tricky with the tailstock. There is plenty about very early antique firearms, and fancy persentation stuff, a fair amount about pistols, loads about military stuff and a lot written about American firearms history, but the sort of guns that most antique collectors, particularly beginners in the UK might get hold of are quite poorly represented.
Most of the coverage is in books specific to makers, who by definition, are at the top end of the market and beyond the reach of many collectors. Having said all that, maybe I am missing some good books? Let me know if so, thanks. I think they had accidentally invented stainless steel! Just horrible — or is it?
In my view they were only fit as wallhangers so the nipples might as well be Araldited into the barrels with some glue run into the connecting chamber to stop any bright spark setting them off! The season ends on 31st so its the last shoot over that ground and was intended to thin out the remaining cocks before the breeding season. A small shoot and a small bag, but most enjoyable although the wind was quite fresh — my new Merino wool inner layer kept me nice and warm, and I thoroughly enjoyed the day and more or less got my share of birds.
Viking showed me a photo of a splendid PWLV medal that was sold at auction — beautiful engraved feathers etc on the back. He also said that it was not unusual for some well heeled junior? Information on the Volunteer Company continues to come in! I gave Bev back his engraved cocks and etc — another satisfied customer and it paid for my shoot — thanks Bev! There is a fine painting of the PWLV in in front of a splendid building, all in fine uniforms — it was sold at auction in in America and the photo on the web is unfortunately too faint to show the inscription properly wish I owned it!
Given the probably location of the PWLV St Martins area they were only a short walk from the Haymarket premises of John Barton, gunmaker, who had taken over sole ownership of the firm of Wogdon and Barton on 14th June so that fits quite nicely. I would like to see the musters that Bonhams sold to see if Charles Mackintosh is named — I understand that the Grenadiers were the elite of the regiments, but if Charles carried a musket that might indicate a rank below officer level, as officers would probably only have been armed with a sword?
Well heeled commanders often purchased arms for their troops. Thank you to my respondents for all that information — keep it coming…….. Another job still to do — but I did manage to wash 2 cars today — almost unprecidented, but they were so horribly muddy that it was impossible tobrush past them without getting filthy, and if you take them to a car wash with a thick coat of dirt it just damages the paint surface.
The bottom one is the last — converging! Its about he same size as the one in the photo, I think. I bought a musket today I must remember to pay for it! It has a 42 inch barrel, 4 pipes 2 tapered and a foresight doubling as a bayonet stud. The script signatures are definitely those of John Barton, and are exactly as they appear on other firearms by him — they are genuine and completely original as far as I can judge.
The lock is somewhat rusty and the cock looks like a replacement with a rubbish engraving, but the inside of the lock is in very good condition and quality with quite a lot of original blueing. The barrel is fixed by 4 bolts, rather than pins as in the Brown Bess style — the loops on the barrel have been properly fitted by a gunsmith but look to be more recent then other parts of the gun.
The slots in the fore-end for the bolts are cut quite roughly and not well finished off, as if someone stopped in the middle of the job. Or Barton might have been running a side show. The brass butt plate, trigger guard and pipes seem right for the pattern as does the barrel length — but if the gun was made after then the current service issue would have been the India Pattern of , although after the Peninsular war when the pressure came off the trade, some short Land Patterns may have been made.
The lock has a rainproof pan, which puts it well after — probably into the Barton name period. John Barton sold his business in In any event, John Barton was amongst the top London makers, which, with the side plate inscription make this musket interesting.
Military stuff is a bit beyond me, although I have the books! I found another job waiting to be done for a client — a replacement pricker for a combination tool — not sure what its from.
Anyway I fiddled around trying to match the thread and eventually settled on 2 B. It worked. The pricker I made out of an old steel knitting needle I had lying around — I try to keep a collection of such things, and big needles etc to make pins for holding older guns together.
It is possible to make finer cuts with a freshly honed HSS tool, or for very fine cuts I believe its necessary to use a carbon steel tool.
Most of my lathe work has been fairly crude, so its taken me this long to learn what others probably knew from to start! I then finished the spurs off with the Gravermax, putting a line round as a border and tidying up any bits where the file had missed.
Job now completed. Anyway I made an offer, which will be passed on to the owener in due course, so we shall see. Zero marks to the Tax system, full marks to the chap on the end of the phone. Anyway then off to school to play — I will get into trouble tomorrow as the children made a bit of a mess with the hot glue guns! Some have started to play with the radio communication built into the BBC Microbits, so I had to spend the evening getting up to speed so I can stay one step ahead!
Screwing a matchstick into the hole in the tumbler gave a pretty good match to 48 t. I engraved them with a few radial slashes — the domed head limits what one can do as its not really possible to engrave too far round the curved surface. I turn a rod down the the final O. I then indent the flange and clear most of the spare material around the head before parting it off, then screwing it into my holder and shaping the head in the lathe by eye, using a file to finish it off. I then cut the slot while its still in the tapped holder, and engrave it.
The tax return is much more difficult now that I have de-registered from VAT as I used to have to make up my accounts every quarter, so I still mostly remembered what was what. Never mind, next time I can get the detailing right on the body and maybe not bother to harden it. And I had a loaf to make…………………. Oh, and I started to think about chapter headings for the book on gun repair and restoration that I might one day write…………..
And I was thinking it might be time to take up Pilates — I might get a bit buff whatever that means ………………. I have two fudges for the problem, one is to undercut the male thread blank against the shoulder before cutting the thread — I have a parting tool ground up to do that — and the other is to grind off some of the lead-in from the face of the die, in which case it pays to have two dies, one to start the thread and the other to finish cut up to the shoulder.
I also noticed that the two sides of the gun were not identical in terms of thread fit. Anyway I got a very secure fit on both nipples in the end, and wrapped them in ptfe pipe tape as we normally do. I have a problem with turning the nipples themselves in titanium as the depth of cut gets quite unpredicatable when you try to take very shallow cuts as you converge on the correct fit for the cap. Sometimes even a sharp tool takes nothing off just pushes metal out of the way, and then another pass will take off more than you wanted — I think my lathe is pretty rigid, its a big heavy machine and will make accurate cuts in steel.
Net result it that the nipple I made today has a very slightly loose fit for the cap — OK for the right hand barrel but it would probably jump off the left barrel when the right was fired. No need for more photos of the nose and nipple — they look remarkably similar to the ones I put on yesterday — I ground up a profile tool for the nose.
I probably need to replace the loose nipple, but I will move on to a bit of engraving for Bev. I also got a tap to make a jig for the replacement cock nose so I could bore that out, and finished both of those parts.
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