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woodworking-turning-a-bowl-quote Premium Video: Turning a Bowl. by Ernie Conover • Apr 6, Print. Print. This instructional video explains how to set up your lathe, faceplate, bowl blank and turning tools to get your bowl woodturning started. The Full Article is for Magazine Subscribers Only. Verify Subscription by Email Address. Detail of woodturning in work. A turned wood bowl with natural edges. Woodturning is the craft of using the wood lathe with hand-held tools to cut a shape that is symmetrical around the axis of rotation. Like the potter's wheel, the wood lathe is a simple mechanism which can generate a variety of forms.  Woodturning tools must be sharpened more frequently than other edged woodworking tools to maintain a clean cut because the wood passes at great speed. Sharpening is usually accomplished with the aid of mechanical devices such as powered sharpening wheels and abrasives. This sharpening process requires either skill of the craftsman, or one of the many available sharpening jigs, which facilitate maintaining a specific bevel on the tool. Woodworking and metalworking tools are dangerous. Always seek professional advice and training before using any power tools or CNC machine.  90 Roger Clyde Webb demonstrates Wood-turning an Oak bowl from a $ firewood log. To hollow out the bowl, position the tool rest parallel to the face of the blank and turn on the lathe so that the blank is rotating slowly. I allow extra material for the bowl to distort as it dries in a kiln or by air and then re-turn the dry bowl at a later date. Center the faceplate over the hole left by the nail and use a scratch woodworking turning a bowl quote to create starter holes for the screws. Now bring up the tailstock and apply pressure with the tailstock quill, turning your lathe into a clamp. To achieve security and accuracy in my production business, my preference has always been to use dovetail jaws, which have proved woodworking turning a bowl quote be very secure if the tenon is shaped correctly.

Drop the tool handle to about 45 degrees, allowing for a shear cutting action, which is easier on the wood, your body, and the lathe. There is a good reason why the French guillotine had a cutting edge of approximately 45 degrees—less resistance in use, allowing for a more efficient cut. Measure the chuck jaws when they are almost closed, in a position close to a perfect circle.

This allows for a really secure grip and full contact all around on the tenon, rather than opening up a smaller set of jaws, which would only contact the wood on eight points. Transfer the chuck jaw size to the bowl, making a light mark with the left point of the dividers. Ensure the right point does not touch the wood, which is moving upwards and could send the dividers flying, causing injury. The right-hand side is lifted off the tool rest, so the measurement is made through the centerline.

A little trial and error is necessary until the line scribed is the same dimension as the dividers. The gouge is then pushed in several passes toward the headstock to remove material around the tenon, always cutting into side grain.

The tool I use to precisely form the tenon is a diamond-point scraper, shaped to 77 degrees to match the dovetail jaws of my chuck.

Remember that the shape and angle of the jaws on the different chuck brands will vary from profiled jaws with serrations to smooth dovetails jaws. The angles of the various dovetails can range from 75 degrees to 80 degrees.

To achieve security and accuracy in my production business, my preference has always been to use dovetail jaws, which have proved to be very secure if the tenon is shaped correctly. With the tenon formed, measure and mark the width of the base, approximately one-third the diameter of the rim. Then refine the outside shape of the bowl, leaving the base area intact.

I create an ogee at the bottom and a convex shape towards the rim. This cut can prove challenging for many woodturners. The shearing cut is made with the left wing of the tool, keeping the handle down towards the floor in the degree position.

Raising the tool rest will make this cut easier, especially on smaller lathes, where the tool handle may come in contact with the locking levers. It is not always easy to see if you have created a pleasing shape when the bowl is mounted sideways on the lathe, so either screw off the faceplate to check if you are satisfied with the profile in the upright position, or just rest your hand on the stationary bowl to feel how the shape flows.

The outside of the bowl is now ready to be sanded, but first I will apply a coat of oil with the lathe off. I am opting to wet-sand using oil, which is very efficient and produces no dust. It is important, if using this sanding process, to work with oil that does not cure quickly, such as a walnut oil or a mineral oil-based, food-safe finish.

The abrasive will last a long time, provided it is dipped occasionally in the oil. I use a flexible, cloth-backed abrasive with grits , , , and When sanding, I hold the abrasive firmly with my right hand and use my left hand for additional support.

Slow the lathe speed, and let the lathe do the work. Remove the faceplate from the bowl blank and remount the blank in the chuck using the tenon turned earlier. I use my thumb to apply pressure to firmly seat the dovetail tenon into the jaws. I then use both hands to tighten the chuck.

The hollowing process can be a little daunting at first, for fear of a tool catch that could lead to the bowl coming of the lathe. I avoid using the tailstock for support during this process, as it hinders the movement of the tool. A carefully formed dovetail tenon will hold the bowl securely. There are three simple steps to remember here: 1 make a V-groove, 2 rotate the tool counterclockwise, and 3 pull the handle towards your body, standing right foot forward.

Make a V-groove by facing the flute, or red line, away from you, keeping the handle horizontal, and pushing into the wood. This means you are cutting into side grain when making heavy cuts and pushing the piece back into the chuck, which does not put much stress on the tenon, leading to less vibration. Rotate Woodworking Turning A Bowl Model the tool towards you, opening up the flute, but stop just before the red is visible from above.

Pull the handle towards your body, while pushing the tool firmly onto the tool rest with your left hand. Repeat this process, working in steps, from the center out towards the rim. Position the tool rest so it angles into the bowl and then repeat the process, which now becomes easier, as the steps are already in place to start the next series of cuts.

These cuts are very fine, resulting in no tearout when done correctly. However, this small-diameter tool is prone to vibration if the tool rest is not kept close and will not reach the bottom of the bowl successfully. This is where my degree bottom bowl gouge comes into play. The handle of this tool is kept in a horizontal position as my left hand pushes the tool down on the tool rest. Make several light passes, and each time bring the handle close to your side for stability as the cut nears the bottom.

With experience, all of this can be done successfully without using a scraper, but making light passes with a scraper will also result in a satisfactory finish. Let the wood come to the scraper, rather than forcing the tool into the wood. The outside of our bowl will be turned by direct attachment to a faceplate. Cyanoacrylate is the best glue for this purpose because it will still bond if the wood is wet and, with the aid of a catalyst spray, dries very quickly.

This allows you to turn the bowl from green wood if you wish, but there is nothing wrong with turning a bowl from dry wood if you have a suitable piece. Orienting the base of the bowl to what was the outside of the tree and the mouth to the inside achieves the strongest grain pattern. Green wood or dry, you need to bandsaw a round billet that is slightly less in diameter than the swing of your lathe.

You could simply screw the faceplate directly to the side that will be the base of your bowl, but this method presents two problems. The first is that turning the outside of the bowl is awkward, especially for a new turner. A much better plan is to screw the faceplate to the Woodworking Turning A Bowl Down side that will be the mouth of the bowl and turn the outside first.

In this case, banjo and tool-rest placement are straightforward. Using the bowl gouge to make the S curve cuts necessary to shape the bowl and foot is intuitive. Speeds ranging between rpm if the blank is out of round or not balanced well to a maximum of 1, rpm are appropriate.

In fact, going faster than 1, rpm is counterproductive for bowl turning. I think that it is also much easier to see the emerging shape of your bowl and create a foot that is small enough to be aesthetically correct when turning in this orientation. Turning the foot and, in the center of it, a mortise, to receive the glue block are the last steps in turning the outside.

This is a good time to sand the outside, starting with to grit sandpaper and working in small jumps up to grit. Scraping the mortise is a simple but precise operation done with a V-shaped scraper — what I have dubbed a chucking scraper.

Once satisfied with the fit, apply medium-viscosity cyanoacrylate glue to the area around the tenon on the glue block, spray catalyst on the foot of the bowl, and bring the two together. Now bring up the tailstock and apply pressure with the tailstock quill, turning your lathe into a clamp.

Wait 5 to 10 minutes and start turning. You are rewarded with a strong joint and much better centering than you generally achieve with metal four-jaw scroll chucks. Use a bowl gouge to hollow out your bowl. Starting in the center, use a series of sweeping cuts to bring the interior to the desired shape and a uniform wall thickness. Then sand the interior, again starting with to grit and working to grit. Now is a good time to apply the first coat of finish if you wish.

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