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Explore our products. Explore our products Unlimited printing power with endless possibilities. Plus, the easily-cleanable surface made it especially popular for medical facility cabinets. Architects started to spec it on nearly every job we bid. Viewed from bottom of panel. Top edge is cut with triple chip blade, left edge cut with negative tooth angle blade.

During those early years, we built thousands of feet of almond and white melamine boxes. The first thing we noticed about working with melamine over plywood was the bad cut lines. At the time, I was working for a small, independent shop. So we had to stumble our way through working with the tools we had.

We used triple chip blades with a zero clearance insert on the table saw and achieved results that were good enough, at least on the top surface of the panel.

We simply put the bad tear-out side on the back and forgot about it. But when the frameless box came along, we had to change both our system and tooling. Americans have always been enamored with solid wood products.

Even plywood met with a lot of resistance in the marketplace when it was first introduced commercially after WWII. And when the frameless box was being touted as the next wave for custom cabinetmakers to ride, many consumers were simply not convinced. Again, it was economics that drove the cabinet industry towards frameless. Eliminating solid wood milling, and incorporating a hardware system that simplified assembly, made it a cabinetmakers dream. But along with the promises of higher profits, cabinetmakers soon realized they needed better equipment to accurately prepare the panel parts that frameless cabinetry required.

After Tucson, I worked for a couple of large architectural woodworking companies that had the appropriate equipment. The reason melamine chips is because the blade on a saw cuts on the downward motion, which causes the material to chip out on the bottom.

A saw equipped with a scoring blade eliminates this problem. A scoring blade see photo, right is a small diameter blade located in front of the main blade. Because the scoring blade cuts first and from underneath, there is no tear-out or chipping. However, the scoring and main blade must be perfectly aligned in order to work properly.

And this typically means having expensive, high-end equipment. For the rest of us, equipped with only a standard table saw, how can we work with melamine? It can be done—with a few modifications. First, as with cutting any panel product, you have to have a means to cut a straight edge before running through the saw. Panel saws make quick work of this task, but without one, you have to get creative.

I think the best way to do this is with a good track saw system like the Festool or Dewalt. Using an 8-ft. What I recommend is using it for your first cut only—but this will depend entirely on what type of equipment you have.

Left blade is negative tooth; right blade is triple chip. You can purchase a scoring saw attachment if you plan on using a lot of melamine. For a single blade application, use a negative tooth blade and dedicate it for cutting melamine only. Initially, we used a triple chip blade, thinking the blade design would work well for the hard material.

However, the sharp angle of a negative tooth grind does a much better job of scoring the brittle surface, while minimizing tear-out on the backside. Use a slow, but steady, speed as you feed the material.

Finally, wax down the saw and feed tables. The less resistance the material encounters going through the cut the better. Melamine is hard, yet brittle, so it chips easily. Also, sliding it around on a table saw can scratch the surface, so be careful. An important rule to follow is to always put the good side up when cutting on a table saw, since it has a downward cutting motion.

Typically, the topside of the panel will chip less. Plus, you are not causing additional abrasion on the panel face. When using a jigsaw or circular track saw, the good side will be down, because those blades cut on the Wood Door Designing Machine 600 upward stroke.

Although slower, using a router is a great way to achieve clean edges without chipping. Cutting dadoes and cleaning up appearance edges with a sharp, straight bit will prevent a lot of frustration.

Being a panel product, it will need to be edgebanded, both to conceal the ugly particleboard and provide protection to the edge. Solid wood provides the best protection against abuse, but also requires the most work in attaching and matching color.

I recommend using solid wood only where the melamine is exposed to the exterior. If you plan on using an iron, then your only option is melamine tape irons will deform the PVC. In either case, doing it by hand is a pain and yields mixed results. You can also use contact cement with PVC, or better yet, a matching plastic laminate is very durable if the dark edge lines are not objectionable.

For solid colors, FastCap offers a peel and stick tape that is simple to apply and works pretty well. Melamine edges are very sharp. For shelving, always knock down the edge with a stroke of sandpaper. Repairing melamine can be difficult. Surface scratches that remove the color will always be visible. Small holes and edge-chipping can usually be successfully repaired. For bigger holes and repairs, a good product to use is Seamfil , which is designed for plastic laminate. Mixing with a little lacquer thinner will allow it to spread easier.

Simply putty-knife it onto the damaged area, let it dry, and clean the excess off with lacquer thinner. For small nicks and quick-fix repairs, colored wax sticks designed for filling dings and holes in pre-finished wood work great.

Melamine is much heavier than veneer-core plywood, which makes it fatiguing to work with. But with the particleboard core comes a consistent thickness throughout the panel, unlike with plywood, which varies in dimension.

This can have an effect on how panel parts are cut and what the outside dimensions of assembled boxes will be. The use Wood Designing Machine Gun of melamine is still pretty extensive in the commercial cabinet and fixture industry, but most of our residential clients prefer wood. And I can certainly relate; being a wood guy myself, I have always preferred plywood for its natural characteristics and flaws.

However, during this recent economic downturn, people are looking for ways to save money, and melamine is a viable option, if used correctly. My initial enthusiasm was replaced with a return to the plywood mainstay.

But the labor savings in a properly-constructed melamine box can be considerable. A big factor in the successful use of melamine is how it is designed into a project. Even with the wide array of color and wood grain choices, it is best-used one of two ways:. To be the most cost-effective, you have to remember that melamine is designed to be a complete, finished product system.

Hence, the reason it has an extensive rap sheet. Even though flush solid wood edges add durability, they take away from the labor-savings of using melamine in the first place. Just like a lot of material we use in our projects, everything has a place. Melamine acquired its bad rap for the imitation look and failure in certain applications. But this is more of a result of poor design and fabrication, rather than the material itself being bad.

If the material is used responsibly, it can be introduced as an option for many projects with good conscience and no apology. GREAT article. Thank you for enlightening us with the use and tips for using Melamine.

Your shop also must be a dream to work in. Interesting to see a recommendation to quirk solid edging applied to melamine. With a quirked edge the water pools up against the particle core and cause damage right away. Commercially edge-banded melamine is pretty consistently water-tight for frameless cabinet edges. Spend the extra budget money on good quality full overlay doors and top surfaces of a material with better wet performance or use melamine boxes with face frames, in my opinion.

That having been said, it works great in semi-custom closet components and systems. MDF also lacks the screw holding power of solid wood or plywood, so the use of impact drivers should be kept to a minimum or eliminated entirely.

My former shop uses an Altendorf F45 sliding table saw which incorporates a scoring blade making for a very clean cut. My Festool TS55 system also makes exceptionally clean cuts in melamine, often rivaling the F45 quality of cut. David, I can say that you definitely know the product.

Every one of your techniques I have used or still use to this day. Great article — where were you 25 years ago? We built a dentist office in and melamine was specced for all the cabinets to save money.

I wish I would have had this article before I started that job! One thing I wanted to mention — you can get different thicknesses of the wear surface — horizontal and vertical grade, just like laminates.

Wall cabinets would have similar pull-out storage behind swinging doors. One sagging drawer banging another one will destroy Wood Door Designing Machine 80 both fronts in short order and the only fix then was replacement. So one last tip — use the heaviest-duty adjustable euro hinges and best quality full-extension ball-bearing drawer slides you can find.

Great article. Although I see that the rise of specialised CNC driven workshops is starting to make cabinetmaking in Europe a specialist job. Until everyone has replaced his panelsaw with some CNC :. Checking the Festool manual I found a splinterguard but not that feature, of course it can probably be simulated with a clipable add-on under the stop block. Or is it a sander? Do you actually grind the edge off? What grinding disk do you use? Will it chip out and the blue tape become a mess?

It makes scribing go fast and is fairly accurate. I use 50 grit to take things down quick and 80 for detail work.

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