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sam-maloof-oil-treatment We use cookies on our website to give you the most relevant experience by remembering your preferences and repeat visits. Improve this answer. Must try that recipe, thanks. Clear editor. My treatent is about the amount of wax that needs to be added to the mixture.

If I have to mix it, what is the ratio? You can buy things like boiled linseed oil and mineral spirits in large gallon jugs, and then purchase the varnish as needed. I think its better to have a varnish component in the mixture for extra durability, unless you truly want an oil-only finish. Another advantage to mixing your own home brew is the fact that you will have total control over the finishes properties. Want a more close to the wood look and feel? Add more oil. Want more protection?

Add more varnish. Want to make the finish easier to spread around the surface? Add more thinner. And for more information on oil-based finishes, check out our video: Oil-Based Finish Basics. The Wood Whisperer is proudly sponsored by brands that Marc trusts.

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The first batch I made had a lot of wax in it, and as it cooled it solidified into a waxy, goopy mess that had to be reheated prior to use. In subsequent batches I've added less and less wax, however each time the mixture cools the wax seems to separate out and coagulates on the bottom of my container. Is this normal, does the wax always cool and separate and re-solidify? Do I need to re-heat the mixture every time I want to finish a project? I guess I could just order a batch Sam Maloof Oil of Rocklers stuff to see what it looks like but thought I'd ask the group and maybe pick up some tips.

I think the problem is you are using " boiled " linseed oil. I think the recipe calls for plain linseed oil. The boiled has driers added to it and could be causing the separation? Perhaps the separation is normal and just need to mix up real good before using. I believe you should not have to keep reheating Sam Maloof Oil Effect each time. I have never made any so no personal experience. I just looked it up and yes to the boiled linseed oil??? Sam Maloof used 2 different oil finishes. One with wax added and the other without.

The first is a 3 part mix. Put on coats. Qualitatively what is the difference in a finish with using something like this e. Do they serve different purposes in the finishing world? On a related note this seems really easy to make. Looked at a certain way it's because it combines the worst of both materials, something I don't say lightly. Excellent question. The answer might be a very uncomfortable one for fans of Maloof's work or of the finish on their own pieces: it's likely to be softer and more easily marred.

There's no getting away from these. It's because they're soft that neither should be applied as a surface coating of any significant thickness. As the Comment above from keshlam rightly says, Maloof experimented until he got the effect he liked the most. He was going for appearance, and possibly feel, over wear characteristics I promise you, because an oil finish normally would never go over a film-building finish — oil finishes are supposed to go in the wood, not on the wood for a very good reason.

If you don't wipe off the excess after using BLO on a piece and let it fully 'dry' might take a month or more you'll easily see why. I think the nature of Maloof's work should be strongly borne in mind in considering his choice of finish; even before he had a big name and became one of the brightest stars of American woodworking his work was what you might class as art furniture, or fine furniture if you prefer.

Stuff like this is, to be blunt, intended to be babied. They're not daily users in a busy household with young kids! Well not unless the pieces are safely locked in a room the kids don't have access to I think anyone who currently uses it or is tempted to either bought or made at home should think carefully about the role of the tung oil in a mixture that already contains linseed oil.

What purpose does it actually serve? No you're not wrong and I always encourage people to make this kind of thing themselves, rather than buy a commercial version which are sometimes disproportionately expensive. The cost is only part of it though, by making something yourself you get a better appreciation for the materials, you can tailor the mixture to suit your own tastes, the local conditions and other factors.

The above points are often emphasised in guides on making homemade versions of blended finishes, others being "Danish oil", "tung oil finish" and "teak oil". But a key aspect that's often not expressly stated is that it means you have all of the primary ingredients separately.

They are far more useful and versatile as individual components than in a single readymade mixture. Commercial paste waxes are typically a blend of one or more waxes, e.

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