%!$ Easy Diy Woodworking Bench Plans For You #!@

plan-wood-table-2020 You may also need to discard the brush after one application. Ice Dam Removal. Making a table is a great entry level project for beginning woodworkers, but it can also be a complex project for more experienced carpenters. A dirty surface is one of the main things that can prevent proper adhesion. And what about bubbles, I suppose they can ruin the plan wood table 2020 final effect.

Sand all cut surfaces with grit sand paper. Other lumber will cost more but is definitely worth it depending on your situation. For example, oak wood will be harder and longer lasting and also stains beautifully! I created the DIY end table plan following the exact dimensions of the inspiration farmhouse end table , which is You can easily modify the dimensions to fit your space and needs!

The farmhouse end table plans are simple and beginner-friendly. To learn how to create a lap joint, we recommend this article article that has some great tips on how to clamp a saw guide and create lap joints using a circular saw.

And this ultimate guide to create distressed wood paint finish will be perfect for those who want a rustic chippy paint finish. Make sure to choose non-toxic paint! You can also leave the wood natural and use an all nature wood wax to finish the table. Here is a tutorial on how to emake my favorite home-made all natural furniture wax easily!

The wax will repel stains and dust, and give the wood surface a richness. Remember, if you do not want to build a DIY end table, you can purchase it at Wayfair or you can also find it here. Submit a brag post here or email [email protected] with your photos and project description. Michelle M.

Happy building! Be sure to pin this for later and share with your DIY friends! Tagged: building plans , Coffee and End Tables , coffee table , DIY farmhouse furniture , end tables , Farmhouse , farmhouse decor style , modern farmhouse , Side Table , woodworking , woodworking plans.

Ananda is an artist and garden designer. Her work in landscape architecture and art led to many creative diy ideas and projects that she shares here at Remodelaholics and at her popular blog, A Piece Of Rainbow. What finish did you guys use on this?

I love it! Hope that makes sense. Will save someone an extra trip to the store. Other than that, great little table. Mine turned out wonderful. Your cut list has the long cross pieces What am I missing? This DIY farmhouse side table is so cute. I would never have guessed it could be built so cheaply.

Thanks for the design plan. Remodelaholic is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to amazon.

Unfortunately, neither of these substances is completely safe. Epichlorohydrin is definitely toxic, and Bisphenol-A is at least suspicious. Because it leaks xenoestrogens, there are some health concerns about the use of Bisphenol-A in food-grade plastics. If the label does not say, flip the bottle over and look at the numbers on the bottom. If it says 5, 4, or 2, then there should be no BPA. Carbolic acid is another one to watch out for, as it is commonly used for weed-killing purposes.

Obviously, we do not have the time or space to list every single chemical that might be used in these products, but we would encourage you to do a quick internet search on any ingredients that you find to be suspicious.

It never hurts to be a little bit paranoid, especially when dealing with safety concerns. Yellowing is a major concern when it comes to epoxy, especially for artistic projects. While virtually all epoxy companies focus on clear epoxy resin, not all of them will stay clear.

There are many cases in which we have examined a product of this type, only to find that many reviews speak of the product yellowing with age. Of course, the consensus of the reviewers will always tell the tale. Even if the company pays for positive reviews which does unfortunately happen , you can still look at the points on which the majority of reviewers agree. Of course, yellowing may not actually be an issue for you. If you are using your epoxy resin for some kind of repair, it may not be visible once dried and cured anyway.

While the protections of an epoxy resin get plenty of headlines, the fact remains that few of epoxy resins are out and out weak or fragile. The overwhelming majority of epoxy resins will still provide adequate protection from impacts and other superficial kinds of damage. Instead, the main protections you look for involve other types of damage that can be either incurable or even lead to ruining the workpiece in the first place. Outside of the general physical protections, the most important ones to look for are protections from the elements.

Epoxies, like most other plasticized substances, do a naturally good job of repelling water. Many people have been dismayed to see that a glass of water can leave a permanent ring on their nice shiny finish. Of course, this is not an issue for everyone. However, if you do need something waterproof, make sure that the label specifically says that. Admittedly, it can take a very long time, but you want something that will last for years to come.

This subject relates to the problem of yellowing somewhat because UV radiation will cause a clear epoxy resin to become yellowed and cloudy over time.

However, that is the least of your worries. In this case, the yellowing occurs because the adhesive is breaking down at the molecular level. It might take quite a while to reach a point of catastrophic failure, but it is nonetheless compromised. There are actually some resins that can only cure under UV light. These are specialty products, but some people prefer them because of their long working times. Until you stick them under a UV light source, they will remain tacky.

That gives you plenty of time to work out the bubbles, smooth out any rough spots, or add any decorations like dye, glitter, stones, or embedded objects. It means that the chemical structure of the product lends itself to a level surface.

In other words, it tends to create a level surface without any effort from you. Much like the surface of a glass of water, all you have to do is leave it alone.

Of course, it rarely works out this nicely in reality. Self-leveling epoxy will still require some brushstrokes in order to spread it evenly around the surface.

However, most users do agree that it helps you to create a smoother and shinier finish with less brushing. Remember, if an epoxy manufacturer advertises both a self-leveling formula and a quick curing time, it might not be able to do both well or at the same time. As such, if you need an epoxy resin to help fill in planar imperfections, you need to choose a slower curing formula.

This is likely one of the most frustrating issues that you can deal with primarily because it does not really appear until after the resin is already well into the curing process. Basically, an epoxy resin blushing creates a waxy bi-product that sits on the surface of the finish. Aside from the fact that blushing mars the finish, it also prevents an issue for any other application thereafter--whether you are applying another layer of epoxy or some other type of finishing product.

While some epoxy resins actually provide some protection against this effect, the fact remains that the better way to prevent blushing is to keep the workspace as dry as possible--including with a dehumidifier if needed. Bubbles love to appear in the cracks. They can come from a number of different places, both inside the formula and out, but the fact remains that it completely ruins the finish of an epoxy resin.

That said, the difference between bubbles coming from within and bubbles occurring on the exterior determines how you should tackle this problem. If the bubbles are seeping into the epoxy from outside, you should make it a point to apply the epoxy in a warmer place with little to no humidity. On the flip side, if the bubbles come from within the surface material, you will need to apply a hot gun to help get them out. Yes, a blowtorch is surely going to be your good friend. Similar to a blush, this effect will have a bigger impact on those formulas that cure more quickly than others.

That said, this is generally considered an easier problem to overcome since, in the end, a hot gun will ultimately solve the problem either way. The application is actually one of the most important considerations for an epoxy resin, especially if you are not an experienced user. That said, even for those who regularly use epoxy resins have a tendency to prefer products that are easier to apply. This is because an epoxy resin that is difficult to apply increases the likelihood that the resin will not cure properly.

Most of the time, difficulties with the application process involves how the resin cures while it is being applied. The most common issues with the application are either the development of bubbles or a condition called blushing. Finally, we come to the subject of coverage.

When a smaller amount of epoxy covers a wider surface area, that is bound to save you money. Unfortunately, most of these claims are hype. By this point, you might be wondering: What is epoxy, anyway? Is it made from a natural source, or is it a chemical product?

Well, as far as we can tell, it is a chemical product made from natural sources. There are many epoxide substances, but not all of them are used for making adhesives.

Most of the epoxy resins that you will see on the store shelves are produced through a mixture of Epichlorohydrin and Bisphenol-A BPA. Epichlorohydrin is an epoxide liquid that is produced through a mixture of allyl chloride and hypochlorous acid.

As you can see, chlorine is the only common factor that ties all of these substances together. BPA is a precursor of many plastics and is commonly used to make plastic water bottles among other things. When the Epichlorohydrin is reacted with BPA, it produces a basic and functional mixture. These little touches are what separate one product from another, and that is why most epoxies do not differ all that much from one another.

This explanation might be a little too scientific for some, but at least you will never again have to ask yourself: What is epoxy? Of course, an epoxide does not become a good adhesive until it has been mixed with the hardener. When it comes to hardeners, things are not so simple. Amines and acids would probably be the most common things, but many different reagents can be used to achieve this same effect.

In general, different hardeners are used to tweak the drying times and curing times of each individual product. Not only does epoxy resin bond to wood, but it bonds very strongly. It creates a near-permanent bond that will be very hard to break. However, I would caution you to make sure that the surface of your wood is fully prepared before adding the epoxy.

A dirty surface is one of the main things that can prevent proper adhesion. You will also have better luck if you avoid mixing different brands of epoxy. While two different kinds of epoxy can bond to one another, you will get better results by keeping it homogenous.

Yes, epoxy resin can be used to make wood waterproof. While many people like to use this resin for more artistic purposes, it can be used much like a wood sealer. You just paint it over the surface and allow it to dry.

As with many yellowing issues, the culprit is the sun. Specifically, yellowing of epoxy is caused by UV rays which break down the fibers in the epoxy and cause the whole thing to take on a dull yellow hue. Thankfully, many manufacturers have added UV stabilizers to their epoxy resins. UV stabilizers will prevent yellowing, but not forever.

In the end, a UV stabilizer just delays the inevitable. This stuff prevents yellowing before it starts and has performed very well in tests and experiments. For the most part, epoxy resin will resist scratching, scuffing, and other minor damage.

Because it is basically just a very strong glue, any kind of epoxy will dry to a hard and durable finish. However, your results will depend partly on the thickness of the epoxy layer. The thicker the layer, the harder it will be to scratch the wood.

For instance, some wooden floors are coated with epoxy for extra longevity. All of these floors have a 2mm layer of epoxy, and anything less is not considered to be a true epoxy floor. Thus, you may need to use more of the stuff in order to get a truly durable result.

The answer to this question is not a simple one. While the dry epoxy resin is not considered to be an environmental hazard, it would be a little bit of a stretch to call this an eco-friendly product. As we have already seen, many manufacturers will advertise their epoxy resin as being completely harmless. However, you have to read the fine print here.

Epoxy resin is safe once it has dried and cured, but presents a few hazards before that. Thus, there is no way to completely avoid harsh fumes. That being said, some products are far more toxic than others, so I recommend that you check the MSDS Material Safety Data Sheet for your product just to be on the safe side.

This might surprise you, but epoxy resin is not suitable for outdoor use under normal circumstances. If the epoxy is left in the sun for a long time, even harsher problems can occur. As it yellows, the epoxy will turn brittle and eventually begin to peel away. Some manufacturers will add dyes to their epoxy in an attempt to reduce light penetration and thus reduce light degradation.

However, even the weaker ones can make a good wood sealer. You will have to use more coats, of course, but you should be able to get the same level of protection.

If you choose to use it in this way, make sure to allow plenty of time in between coats. That way, the epoxy has more time to seep into the pores of the wood. Thinner epoxies will probably be your best bet here, just because they will have an easier time seeping into those small pores. If you should want to remove epoxy from a given area, it will probably be a difficult task.

You will definitely need a scraper, and you will definitely need to repaint any painted surfaces when you are done. As for solvents, acetone will usually do the job. Just wet the surface of the epoxy mass and give it about an hour to soften and dry. After that, you can use a heat gun or propane torch to heat the epoxy until it turns into a goopy gel-like substance.

At that point, you can just scrape it off. One little safety tip: Remember that acetone is highly flammable. If this seems confusing, you should know that these are just two different types of the same thing.

Casting resins are special-purpose epoxies that are meant for easier pouring and casting. The main difference between these two types of products will mainly come from their viscosity. Casting resins are a lot thicker, which is good when you are doing a deep pour. This also leads to longer curing time, but that is what you want for filling those large cavities. This slower curing time gives air bubbles more time to rise to the surface, leading to a crystal-clear result.

When used properly, the simple answer is no. However, like most other things in this world, epoxy could be harmful if used improperly. For one thing, it often gives off some harsh fumes as it dries. It is very hard to remove, so you should wash your hands with a solvent solution quickly. Finally, we should mention the fact that epoxy produces heat.

When its two components are mixed, a chemical reaction occurs, and this reaction is exothermic. They could even catch fire in some cases, so make sure you use a mixing container that can handle the heat. Yes, you can certainly use multiple layers of epoxy for most projects.

In fact, some people prefer to do it this way. If you are using a product that is a little thinner, you may be forced to do things this way.

In particular, it is a good idea to do thin coats when working on a vertical surface. Thick coats will tend to run, so a large number of thin coats is your only real option. Of course, there are certain things to remember when using an epoxy product in this way. First of all, you need to make sure that you wait for the full curing time with each layer.

There is a difference between drying time and curing time, so make sure you understand that. Even when that epoxy seems to be hardened, you must not apply the next layer until the entire curing time has elapsed. You may also have to apply the heat gun on each layer to avoid bubbling.

It indicates the total working time from the moment you mix it until the moment it becomes unusable. Still, it will give you a general idea of how much time you will have. We have attempted to give you the most in-depth article on the web, and we hope that we have succeeded in doing so. We want all of our readers to be informed enough to make smart decisions, and this article should help you to do that.

In the end, most of these epoxy resins will actually provide a fairly similar finish and will do so at around the same price. Of course, there are still some solid budget options on the market, and for our money, the SRC Crystal Clear epoxy resin offers a nice solution on a budget.

While it will not provide the hardest finish for a heavy-duty workpiece, it does offer one of the quicker total curing times while still giving you an extra bit of time for the early stages. Ultimately, this is a bit easier of a product to use for beginners, though you do still have to work quickly. I totally agree that Pro marine is a good choice for newbies. Otherwise, sanding will be taking so much time and eventually you will end up giving up on your DIY idea.

Hope this helps. Hi there William! Like your article. There was Wood Craft Table Plans 2020 a bunch of articles I read about wood finishes such as stain, polys, lacquer and more other stuff. Endless amount of shapes of the river pattern, I can paint epoxy any color I like.

I want to do it! Nice to see you on my blog, Patricia. Glad to hear that you want to create something beautiful by yourself, really nice. But yes river tables are magnificent. Gonna do my first project and i want to do it properly. After i pour one coat of resin when can I do the next?

And what about bubbles, I suppose they can ruin the whole final effect. Hi, Denis. You can see the table I composed on top of the article. It clearly shows curing time of each product so you have to wait at least 12 hours for full curing to begin pouring the next level of epoxy. Curing time is very important, do not mess it up. Bubbles… Epoxy resins and bubbles go together. Bubbles appear while mixing the epoxy, they appear while pouring and spreading the epoxy across the surface.

Once you pour the epoxy wait 5 minutes for bubbles to raise up and pop them with heat gun. It may sound trite but how can I fix my wooden pieces while pouring so that pieces stand still until epoxy cures completely?

Looking forward to your answer. There are times when we need answers to simple questions. You can make it using wooden decks and cardboards, bond enclosure to the surface using glue. Have fun doing your project. Love your amazing review. Is there any conditions wooden piece have to satisfy before applying epoxy? Only certain types of wood acceptable? First of all, you can use any type of wood you like, no problems.

Choose what you like the most, do not hesitate. Before applying epoxy you have to make sure that wood is clean.

Remove dirt, flinders, peeling bark and other blemishes. Then sand the wood using sandpaper or orbital sander to make the surface smooth. It would be great if you could use a vacuum for that purpose. Yes, any epoxy resin can yellow over time, there is no panacea for that. But most epoxy resins have components reducing the impact of UV rays which means the epoxy will stay clear longer but not infinitely. Interior projects got no problem with UV rays.

But if you really want to get an outdoor project then I suppose you will need some extra top coat finish over epoxy which has strong UV protection. What do you think about it? Yep, you can finish the wooden parts of your river table.

I think oil is a great choice here; it will seal the wood and give it a polished satin look. Please, check out the article where I listed top oils for different wooden pieces on the market.

Hope you will love it. If you had wanted to finish your wood before applying epoxy you could have used wood stain. Stains are great since they unfold the natural beauty of the wood. But once you applied epoxy do not use any stain because it may color the epoxy which will ruin the entire project.

Hi there. Finally got Pro Marines and poured my river table. Love it, now I want to protect it from scratches. What can I use for that? You came up with a good decision, it will be disappointing to mess up a beautiful table. Shellac or polyurethane would be a good choice to protect your piece, these are clear top coats which are nicely suited for epoxy resin.

On the other hand, shellacs is another great option, which can be simply repaired and refinished in time. So for you, I would recommend using shellac since it has a good scratch resistance and you could easily refinish or remove it using a solvent. Great Article! Quick question for you, can coloring pigments be added to all these brands of epoxy? I have used Glaze Coat on a few things.

My first was a 9ft Farm table I made for my daughter using all hardwoods and most were curly or spalted. Turned out awesome. Going to try doing more live edge tables with color. William, I am doing a bench and rock combination, I plan on doing a waterfall off of the rock and landing it on my bench and I would like to have a lot of bubbles where the falls land. Just like the real thing, I am the oddity who wants some bubbles. Any ideas of how to accomplish this? Sadly, I have never done anything like that before.

By the way, recently on the internet I stumbled upon this epoxy resin sink which has bubbles inside it:. This is how I imagine it: wait for the epoxy to harden but not completely , then pierce the surface with needle syringe and blow bubbles one after another. Since the epoxy is hardened a little bit, the bubbles will not pop up. I think a sealer is must have here since you need to prevent the paint from penetrating into the epoxy.

Of course the paint may be totally dried but I just want to make sure everything will be okay. After sealer dries apply the epoxy as usual. Just how hard to they cure? I damaged a set of knives recently on wood that had be stabilized with Cactus Juice. Are these products product hard enough to damage planer knifes or router bit?

Any near out or breakage? From your reviews it looks like RTG might be my best option as it sticks to almost anything. Getting the frass — residue from what the termites or worms have damaged — from the holes can be done but getting sandpaper inside the hole to sand may not be doable. Any advice is appreciated. Thanks for taking the time to compare.

I completed a large river table for a customer and used SRC. Because it was 2 inches thick I had to make several pours. Have you looked at their epoxy and casting resins? Think I may try this brand out later. Thanks a lot for the reply. Sorry I should have mentioned that i was going to finish the table top with epoxy as well. To state it clearly, I want to fill the bigger splits, empty spaces with epoxy, by pouring it up to the level.

I want to finish the top with epoxy. I hope that gives more context for my previous question. I have been doing a lot more research about this issue and found that I do need to seal the entire surface of wood, for my application. Your article helped a LOT. To fill the checking and minor defects, I wanted to use West Systems resin and fast hardener.

I bought the combination from amazon. For casting, I was going to use Pro Marine Supplies two part epoxy. What should i use for sealing the wood? What should I use for finishing the table top? Should I buy different epoxies for filling, casting, sealing and finishing, or is there a product out there for all applications. But it looks like it is from UK. I am a little rushing for time.

I might not have time for 16 pours needed to come to a height of 2 Inches, 8 hours apart. I would really appreciate any help regarding these ridiculous number of questions. For sealing, you may use Agra-Life. For finishing, the best option for you is clear spar varnish exterior varnish. For filling and casting you can use the same epoxy. I have used Eco-poxy so far to fill deficits and areas where I removed bark. It has a long set time 3 days but I can pour a greater depth at once. My question is really with finishing — 1.

Do you think I would need to then epoxy the entire surface for consistency? Could I finish the wood with poly-urethane or would that give strange results? You may do so if you think your whole table covered with epoxy will be looking better. If you hesitate use Pro Marine Supplies instead. If i understand this correctly, I sanded and restained a wooden table, so now I have to seal it before I cover with epoxy resin?

Also, you will avoid appearing of tiny bubbles coming from wood pores by doing so. William great article. You have given me some things to consider when i do my River Table Bar. I have one question. If its just one where should i use it? Thank you for your time Kirk. What about which sealer to use, I would recommend Agra-Life. Can anyone rate or review the glasscast 50 epoxy resin please!!

In your experience is any one product better then that other? And do you foresee more bubbles because of surface, material of heat differences between wood and metals in the same project? It may be a few bubbles.

Just pour as much epoxy as needed to cover the coins. Then you will be able to easily get rid of any appearing bubbles with a heatgun. When all bubbles are gone pour the next level of epoxy.

I do wear a respirator, and have proper ventilation, but the odor lingers for a very long time. Any recommendations on a product that will give me a good result with less toxicity? I live in Minnesota and want to fill in all the holes for bench and table. Any ideas of the best product to use? Thanks appreciate any ideas. Do you want to keep them outside in winter or you just want to do the pouring and keep them indoors? Anyway, all epoxies on the list require degrees to work properly during pouring, so in your case, there is no outstanding product.

Furthermore, you may warm up the epoxy placing it in a warm water bath. Hi William, This is a great read for a first timer, and everybody else of course.

I salvaged a worm riddled half cedar log one side still rounded from how the tree grows the other side eaten down to the middle of the log by worms today. Is that even possible? Reading all the bubble hunting scenarios, I have come to doubt it. Would you have an idea how to approach this? Also, how much moisture is the wood allowed before using epoxy? The more reading, the more questions. Interesting case. You may try pouring sealer into the holes then drain excess sealer so that sides of the holes are sealed.

But as I said above, there may be holes that are hard to seal. Hi, I want to fill some large knot holes and bark inclusions in a live-edge black walnut slab table up to flush with the rest of the top.

The depth of the holes and inclusions varies from shallow to an inch deep. I understand I should seal them first before applying epoxy, but after sealing, how do I apply the epoxy — one coat or a series of layers?

Is there a particular brand epoxy that would be best for this? After the holes are filled and fully hardened, can I sand the epoxy at the same time as I sand the whole table top? I want to maintain the transparency so the holes will be visible. I plan to finish the entire table with satin polyurethane varnish; will the epoxy take the varnish the same way the wood does? Thanks very much. Yes, you may sand the epoxy as you sand the whole table.

Poly varnish should work, make sure that you sand the epoxy before applying. I did sand 80 sand sand. I made cake and polish. After applying teak and tunk oil in the videos, the epoxy table glows and becomes transparent.

Great article and follow-on advice, so thank you. So I need the epoxy to have a strong lasting bond. Will applying a sealant first affect the bond strength? Should I be concerned with the hardness of the expoxy or any flexibility of it? Since the door will be used continuously and get jolted a lot I want to make sure I consider this. Fully cured epoxy is hard and creates a strong bond. I never used the epoxy for moving parts before but I think I will work. Thanks for the great reviews of the top 10 epoxies, very thorough and detailed writeups.

Do you have any experience with their products or know how they compare to your top 10 list? Hello William, great article. Can you tell me which one of these resins is certified by the FDA as safe for food? I have a large split that I need to fill. Have you ever done this.

This video stated that the bubbles would actually rise to the top which in theory would be the bottom and when you removed the tape you should not have bubbles. Also, do a seal coat first before doing the flood coat? Thank you for any info you can provide. The way of filling you described seems strange to me.

Why not to fill the crack as it is, namely when the slab is its original position. You pour a layer, remove bubbles with a heat gun and repeat. I have a nice live-edge slab of black walnut and am thinking of making a river table. Will ProMarine work for deep, single pours about 1. Better do smaller pours for better results. Hi William, I am looking to redo the Wood on my bay window. My 2 labs love to jump up in the window and have it all scratched up. If I repaint it white and then epoxy do you think it would hold up?

Great, informative review! I have never tried an epoxy resin project, but would like too!! This article really helped and answered a bunch of questions, thank you.

Now, when are you going to do an article on the best dyes to use?? Or have you already! Hey Christopher, love the feedback — of course we have an article on both interior and exterior recommended stains to dye your wood. How does that turn out?

A good powder dye to use is Mica Powder by DecorRom. Is it ok to seal the wood and epoxy resin with polyurethane…or just the wood and avoid the epoxy. Yes, it is ok to seal both the wood and epoxy with polyurethane.

Polyurethane on epoxy actually helps it outlast. Hi, I want to learn about Epoxy Resin art work with wood. May I know the which type or specifically name of resin to be used for art work with wood. Any Technical Data Sheet? Tutorial material available to use? I am located in UAE. This epoxy resin by Zdsticky or Dr. Crafty is good to use with wood or anything at your local hardware store will work.

Everything you need should be in the kit and all the instructions too on how to do it. I would suggest watching a video on it too. I use for pouring on countertops, well learning how anyways. Hi Dawn, in the period of self-learning and self-improvement, it is normal to take more time. Few tips:. Three questions.

If all it would take to restore them is a light sanding and polish, a second material might not be necessary. I do a lot of resin art, and have always used Pro-Marine due to price. Your review was helpful in identifying some resins with longer open times, which is a plus in my case.

Thanks for the thought you put into this. Hi, John, Congratulations on your work; sounds very interesting and fun. The resin I use has adequate UV protection but is not entirely suitable for constant sun exposure.

This means that over time it will turn slightly yellow sometimes this is almost invisible ; yellowing is manifested mostly in white paint and light colors. If you cover the corn holes for example, with tarpaulin when not in use, you will not have a problem with yellowing for a long time. Exterior polyurethane is a good option polyurethane has a slight tendency to yellowing, but when it is UV protected, it is tiny. For more roughness of the finish, you can use undiluted varnish thicker and the coating before the varnish is not too smooth.

Polyacrylic does not give yellowing; it is generally crystalline but tends to provide gray colors a cold undertone. For the interior, it will prevent yellowing, but for the exterior, I have doubts.

Yellowing will penetrate deeply, and polishing does not have much effect. You can use exterior varnish for furniture and yachts. They are resistant to external conditions. Keep in mind that some will not adhere well to the resin and others have a yellowish tinge.

This polish , for example, is a good option — it does not turn yellow and does not give a yellowish tinge, but it should not get too wet. Great review. Looking for an epoxy with a matte finish. Have an old oak table to cover. What do you recommend? Hello Tom.

Matte resin will be a rare product that may be too expensive or not work well. Usually with epoxy resin are poured decorative countertops that aim to stand out and the gloss is just for that. In addition, the glossy surface can be sanded and polished, for example, if you have unwanted drops from the casting, you can remove them and have an even gloss again. If you want to have resin on your table, you can apply resin, then sand with fine sandpaper, and then apply matte varnish, so the finish will be matte.

If you choose this option, know that the resin and varnish must bond well. Or you can use matte varnish without resin. For great strength and durability, you can use polyurethane floor varnish.

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