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After your stock has had a chance to reach a state of equilibrium with the environment, you may still have some cupping or warping issues with which to deal. Fortunately, this is why we have surface planers and jointers. Pine has a reputation for leaving a lot of pitch or pine tar on woodworking blades.

While properly curing the pine will help immensely in dealing with excessive pitch, there are still a number of tips that can be used for removing pitch buildup from blades.

For basic cleaning, use a quality all-purpose cleaner such as three tablespoons of a natural laundry soap mixed in a quart spray bottle filled with water. This does a great job of removing pitch from blades and bits, particularly before the pitch buildup has gotten too heavy. In addition to keeping your blades and bits as pitch-free as possible, you should also make certain that your blades and bits are quite sharp when working with pine.

Because of the relatively soft nature of the wood, a less-than-sharp blade or bit will tend to crush the wood instead of cutting cleanly. This will lead to a lot of chipping and splintering in the cuts, and less than optimum results. As mentioned earlier, fresh pine also is relatively easy to dent and scratch. To address this when building with pine, keep a clean work surface, removing any loose wood chips, tools, or fasteners from the work table.

When working on the shop floor, a cut-up cardboard box will protect the surface of the wood from imperfections on the floor quite nicely. Should a scratch occur, you should be able to remove it relatively easily with a random orbital sander.

Dents can be a little more tricky to address. Old-school carpenters commonly use a generous dab of saliva to address a hammer dent in pine that's a nice way to say that they spit on the dent.

The moisture tends to fill the crushed stock, and 20 to 30 minutes later, the dent is barely noticeable. While we're certainly not advocating a similar procedure in the woodshop on a fine woodworking project, the principle is similar. A damp cloth positioned over the spot covered with a hot iron for a few seconds will often remove the blemish. The steam works its way into the fibers and camouflages the dent. When finishing pine, be certain that the wood has had ample time to acclimatize to the local environment.

If you built the project before allowing the wood to reach a state of equilibrium, you'd be wise to allow that time before finishing. Without waiting for the wood to equalize with the surrounding environment, your finish will not be as durable as desired. Then, after a final sanding, use a few coats of a quality primer before applying the desired layers of topcoat paint.

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