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pigment-stain-for-wood-yoga Once dissolved, the mixture need not be stirred again. My experience with Minwax stains is that cherry contains only pigment. Try it. CustomMarch February 10, For superior durability and long-lasting beauty, pigment stain for wood yoga choice is clear — protective clear finishes from Minwax! Although color change is its primary function, stain can also intensify or diminish the grain of the wood, depending on the type of wood and the type of stain you use. It lets the wood itself determine how much stain gets absorbed, resulting in very consistent and predictable staining, and requiring no special skill from you, the finisher.

The other common material that contains those exact same three ingredients is paint. Find a paint chip the exact color of the stain you want, have the clerk at the paint counter mix a quart of latex paint that color, then take it home and reduce it with equal parts water.

Try it. The result is a very easy to use, fast drying pigment stain. If Pigment Stain For Wood 80 you ever tried staining a second time after the first application dried, you would notice that while the wood absorbs a good bit of color on the first application, it absorbs far less on the second.

Although all finishes are compatible over raw wood, not all are compatible over all binders. Hence, some finishes may not be compatible with some stains. All oil based coatings will go over any oil based or waterbased stain. Waterbased topcoats are less tolerant. Most companies formulate their waterbased topcoats to go over their own oil based stains, but they may not work over another brand of oil based stain.

Dyes are very different. While pigments can lodge in large pores or large sanding scratches, they need binder to hold them in place on smooth wood surfaces. Dyes, though, do not. Because they are so small, dye molecules can go deep into wood and bond to it. As a result, you do not need binder with dyes. In fact, the most common dyes woodworkers use are powders that they mix with water or alcohol, or liquid concentrates, and neither contains binder.

Without binder, dyed wood acts the same as raw wood. It is colored, but there is no film on it. As a result, you need not worry about compatibility issues. Any finish will go over any binder-free dye. The best way to think of dyes is to imagine what happens when you add sugar to hot water. The sugar crystals, which you can see while they are dry, dissolve completely, become invisible, and mix uniformly in the water.

Once dissolved, the mixture need not be stirred again. The sugar will stay in solution. The same is true of dyes. Once you have mixed a dye, and that may involve a small amount of initial stirring, it will not separate or sink to the bottom.

Dyes have two other advantages over pigments besides the fact that there are no binder compatibility issues. The first is that they go deeper into wood. The second is that because the dye itself is translucent, you can add much more intense color to wood without losing any of the depth or grain. Hence, for adding deep, intense color to dense wood, or to color figured woods without losing the figure, dye is your best choice.

The majority of commercial stains, those you buy at the home store or paint store, are pigment based, but not all are. Some companies use dye or a mixture of dye and pigment, but they usually contain binder, even when dye is the only coloring agent.

Another strategy of stain companies is to use pigment, but grind it very fine so that it retains the advantages of pigment but goes deeper into the wood, like dye. While these fine grind pigment stains are not the same as dyes, they do come closer and may be just the ticket for some applications. There is an easy way to apply stains that works on all types of wood with every type of stain; pigments, dyes, mixtures of dye and pigment, stains with binder and stains without binder, home made stains and commercial stains.

While reading one of your books I mis-understood the section on removing white water stains and used petroleum jelly on the water mark and left it on overnight. The white water mark is fading but there is a darkish circle which I am guessing is oil residue from the petroleum jelly and I can still see the a ring on the cart at certain angles.

Is there a way to remove the petroleum jelly if this is indeed the case? Can I dissolve it with mineral spirits and then sand and apply the oil again? This helped me out quite a bit.

I will try the other product mentioned in this article. By Bob Flexner. Does it Matter? Revmuddswife February 26, Hello Mr. Flexner, I am new to refinishing and have been reading and learning from your books and DVD. Thanks very much! CustomMarch February 10, In simple terms, pigment is colored dirt ground up into small particles.

Dyes are typically soluble salts. Once mixed with their proper solvent, dye crystals dissociate into individual molecules, which are vastly smaller than ground up pigment particles.

Thus, dye can get into spaces where pigment can not. Apply a typical pigment stain to dense, figured maple and most of it will wipe right off with little color change. Use dye and you get both more intense coloration and grain contrast. With oak, just the opposite is true.

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