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mortise-tenon-joint-jig There are tenoning jigs on the market and mortising jigs too, but only the FMT uses a single guide and bit to cut both mortises and tenons, with speed and precision that you have to see to believe. The FMT is so easy to use and so efficient that it brings professional quality joinery within reach of any shop, from basement to custom studio to factory floor.  Versatility “Spot on accuracy and utmost flexibility the Leigh Jig (FMT) makes perfect straight and angled mortise and tenon joints in a huge variety of sizes ” –Randy Johnson. Speed and Convenience “I know of no better or faster way to cut mortises and tenons ”. Mortise-and-tenon joints tend to frustrate woodworkers far more than dovetails do. That’s no mystery; they are genuinely harder to cut than dovetails. The large flat tenon cheeks and mortise walls need to be flat, smooth and parallel, the shoulders have to line up perfectly all the way around the tenon, and to get a fit that works, the tolerances are within a couple of thousandths of an inch.  You can easily use this jig for the initial layout of the mortise. Hold the jig in place against your workpiece with the positioning strip against the reference edge, and scribe the far side and the two ends of the mortise. Then flip the jig around so the positioning strip is oriented vertically, and use the rest of the jig as a fence against the workpiece. Scribe the near side of the mortise along the positioning strip. Mortising jig. A lot of furniture I build utilizes mortise and tenon joints. I love them for their strength, but also because, in my experience, its seems to be easier to get a mortise and tenon joint precise than it is with dowels. Nowadays, I cut all my mortises with a home made slot mortising machine. But if you just want to cut a few mortise and tenon joints, building a fancy machine may be more than you want to do. So I experimented to figure out a simple way to rig up something to cut slot mortises with. FMT Pro. These can be made as necessary for various thicknesses of work and tenon Mortise And Tenon Jig Bunnings Out locations. Set up for the tenon Lay out a tenon on the end of a test rail the same thickness as your project pieces. Including this model in your woodwork will help you with befitting dowelling applications. The combination creates a mortise tenon joint jig that makes it hard to cut other than dead straight and square. This jig measures This marking mortise tenon joint jig will follow the width of the chisel and has two points to create the marks.

This jig has the ability to produce quality mortise and tenon joints. It has a robust structure which is easy to use. It is an inexpensive jig that provides a quick and easy solution for cutting both a matching tenon and mortise serving all-in-one solution.

It is a durable and easy-to-install piece of equipment. Aircraft-Grade aluminum is used in the manufacturer of this equipment giving it a compact and portable design.

It can produce multiple cut mortises in a single run. This tool provides integrated clamps and swing arms that secure and align the wood piece to produce customized joints.

Cabinets and furniture of great quality can be fabricated using this jig. The jig can also be directly mounted on a workbench or onto a board which can be clamped to a bench or vise. Whenever you need to produce both mortise and tenons of matching sizes, the General E—Z Pro is definitely the jig to use. It measures As expected, the product is very popular on Amazon as it is the best Mortise and Tenon Jig. The General tools is smaller than the pro version but perform almost the same.

It weighs about 1 pound and measures 15 x 4 x 4. This jig can be mounted onto a board that can then be clamped in a vise or bench or mounted directly on a workbench. This tool like its larger counterpart provides quick and easy all-in-one solution to cut matching mortise and tenon. The jig is smaller than the pro version and cheaper too, it is one of the most value mortise and tenon jig kit on Amazon. It makes the paring easier, and seems to leave a cleaner side wall to the mortise.

But the edge is fragile, and I never use this chisel for anything other than Mortise And Tenon Jig For Drill Press Online this work. The core of the tenoning jig is the saw guide — a slot for the spine of the tenon saw constructed out of two saw guide blocks separated by a spacer all made of wood , and a pair of ultra-high molecular weight UHMW plastic guides for the sawplate. The combination creates a guide that makes it hard to cut other than dead straight and square.

The rest of the jig provides support for the workpiece and a way to clamp the jig firmly to a workbench. The critical dimensions of the saw guide are based specifically on your tenoning saw.

Although the spacer is small, the overall accuracy of the jig depends on its precision. The two sides of the spacer should be carefully milled so that they are perfectly parallel and roughly the thickness of the saw back but no thicker. This will provide just the right amount of clearance. Getting to the point where you can accurately check the fit requires a bit more work, however. Clamping the parts together is certainly a possibility, but often, the results are not the same Mortise Tenon Jig Router Table List once you bolt together the parts.

Drilling and bolting together is more reliable. Either way, it helps to have another section of spacer positioned at the bottom of the guide blocks to help stabilize everything.

Bolt everything together, then check the fit of the saw back between the guide blocks. Adjust the fit with paper a typical sheet of 20 lb. A bit of wax on the guide blocks will make the saw slide better. Position the parts to align the holes in all pieces. A leftover piece of spacer holds the work level. Masking tape can be used to make minor adjustments to thickness. The UHMW strips are not always sized accurately or evenly.

The shavings are unusual, but the material planes well. This is a somewhat tedious process of bolting things together, testing the fit, taking them apart and making adjustments; often many times Mortise Tenon Jig Router 5g over. Measure the distance between your guide blocks. That should be the starting point for the depth of the rabbets. Now put everything back together. Sneak up on exactly the right amount of space for the saw- plate by deepening the rabbets a little at a time.

A router plane is perfect for this task, but you can choose whatever method allows you to take off small amounts while keeping the rabbets flat and parallel. Once fit, the strips should ride against the saw plate without clearance. If you happen to make the rabbet too deep, you can always place shims behind the UHMW strips to bring them closer together. The screws securing the UHMW plastic to the inner guide block go through the block into the upright.

Be sure all of the countersunk holes are deep enough to keep the screw heads well below the surface of the plastic. Put the jig together one more time to verify the fit and make any additional adjustments as needed. The other important part to the core of the jig is the vertical fence at the back of the upright.

At this point, the jig is functional, and you could call it quits. But adding the support bracket makes it much easier to clamp to your workbench. I designed the support bracket to work with most shoulder vises.

A ledger strip let into the back of the bracket rests on the benchtop, and the width of the bracket makes it easy to clamp in most vises without racking. But this approach does not work with every workbench and vise setup. You may need to modify the support bracket to set up the jig at a comfortable sawing height and the most secure hold in your vise. A cut-out just above this dado along the rabbeted edge will create better access for a clamp.

Shape the bracket as desired, then glue and screw it into place. But there are a few more components you should make to significantly enhance its capabilities. Move the workpiece forward until the right mortise mark aligns with the stop line.

Shut off the router, wait for the bit to stop spinning, and then lift the workpiece off the table. Remove the temporary plywood spacer and repeat the process.

Lay out a tenon on the end of a test rail the same thickness as your project pieces. Set the straight bit so the top of its cutting edges align with the bottom of the tenon layout line. Back the test piece with a scrap and make a pass on each face to produce the tenon.

Check the fit. If the tenon is too thick, raise the bit slightly. Remember, because you cut both faces, raise the bit by half the amount you need to remove. When the tenon fits correctly, you should be able to push it into the mortise with hand pressure or gentle taps from a mallet.

With the tenon partially seated in the mortise, there should be enough friction that, if you lift the tenoned workpiece, the mating piece comes with it. Complete the tenon by standing the rail on edge and cutting the top and bottom shoulders. A 4x4 makes a great backer block for this cut. Note that the two faces of the fence touch to prevent the workpiece from falling into a gap between them.

Finally, clamp the tenoned workpiece in a vise and use a bench chisel or rasp to round the tenon's corners to match the mortise. You're done! With an old handscrew clamp and some scraps of hardwood, you can set up your thickness planer to

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