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making-wooden-tool-boxes-4g Reply 6 years ago on Introduction. Put in the 4 screws, and you have now finished the main part of the toolbox! Thank you so much! Once you have completed this step, you are done constructing the box! Yea know?

It really suits all ability levels. I'm a beginner without a table saw, router, or the ability to do flashy joints, so the version pictured is very much a beginners' version. The good news…. C'est pourquoi ce qui se fait de mieux pour bien dessiner ou bien peindre donne de si bons artistes. Commencez tout de suite sans risques. For generations, tradesmen of all persuasions have been banging together simple wooden boxes for their gear. Long and narrow for easy carrying, these toolboxes were little more than five boards and Gefunden habe ich eine Kiste im Buch "the toolbox book" von Jim Tolpin.

Die Kiste ist komplett aus massiver Buche was sie zugegebenermassen ziemlich schwer macht, wenn sie voll beladen ist.

Clamp the top and the base of the box together to do the hasps, and lay the box on its back. Arrange them just slightly away from the line where the top and base of the toolbox meet. Hold these pieces in place, and draw circles inside the screw mounting holes. The hinges must be lined up or your box will not open. Once they are lined up, draw circles in the mounting holes again , but also draw X marks inside the circles to mark where the drill bit will go.

Drill out the 12 holes on the X marks this time, but stop at the tape. Now you have finished with the markings- the corners will not need holes drilled. When you sand the toolbox, you want to remove any pencil marks, any raised joints, and any marks or dents that you have put in the wood as you have been working on it.

Make sure that you only sand with the grain of the wood. Start in any especially blemished locations with 20 grit sandpaper, and work your way up to grit sandpaper until the wood looks good and smooth. It is important that you sand the entire toolbox with grit sandpaper- get a slip of sandpaper in your fingertips and rub it in the corners and near the joints if you have not reached them.

I find that the sanding block is better for large areas. Once the entire toolbox has been sanded- the tray, the lid, and the base- then use canned air to blow out the sawdust.

Make sure to keep a clean shop and vacuum up the mess you have made. Staining is one of the harder steps in this Instructable, but it is forgiving, even if it takes a while. First, you will need to wipe out the entire toolbox with a damp cloth to pick up any sawdust particles. Then, put on nitrile or latex gloves.

You do not want to get stain on your hands. Bring the stain can, the toolbox, a rag, a hammer, and a flathead screwdriver outside or to a well-ventilated area. Oil-based stain contains alphatic hydrocarbons, which cause permanent brain and nervous system damage if inhaled.

Make sure to work in a well-ventilated area while doing this step and the next one. Also, N95 dust masks will not provide protection from stain or polyurethane fumes. Once you have set up the toolbox and the stain outside, shake the can of stain vigorously to ensure that the contents are mixed well.

If the stain is not mixed correctly, the finish will come out very weakly and will require more coats to get a cherry finish. Open the can with the screwdriver. Dip the rag in the stain can, and get it really soaked with stain. Leave a thick layer of stain sitting on the wood as you wipe the rag onto the toolbox pieces. In fact, there should be a visible liquid layer on top of the wood as you wipe the rag across it.

Let this layer sit on the wood for about 5 minutes, then make sure to wipe it off with the rag. After that, move on to the sides or the back of the toolbox. Once the first layer has been completed, let the toolbox air out in a well-ventilated area. Once the first layer of stain feels dry to the touch, it is necessary to sand the entire toolbox lightly with grit sandpaper. Wipe out the wood dust with a damp rag.

Now, complete the second layer in exactly the same way as the first. You will see the wood become darker as you apply more stain, which is what should happen.

You might notice that the end grain is darker that the surface of the wood, but that is a normal condition and is nothing to worry about. Again, let the wood dry and sand it.

Don't forget to dispose of the stain rags carefully and appropriately. Stain rags will spontaneously combust if disposed of incorrectly. Let them dry laid flat on a non-flammable surface and throw them in an outdoor garbage can, or permanently submerge the rags in a water-filled paint can and dispose of the can as hazardous waste.

I used clear polyurethane to finish my toolbox. Polyurethane not only makes the wood feel smooth, but it also provides a beautiful and durable glossy coat, and it is very easy to apply.

Other finishes don't always have all of these qualities, but polyurethane provides a good balance of application skill, visual appeal, and durability. Of course, you can decide to go with a lacquer or an oil finish if you wish, but I would recommend polyurethane. Before you do any of the finishing, I would like to warn you again that polyurethane contains alphatic hydrocarbons just like oil-based stain , which can cause permanent brain and nervous system damage.

W ork outside or in a well ventilated area. Also, don't forget to wear nitrile or latex gloves. Once you have put polyurethane on the toolbox, I recommend washing your hands just to be safe. Once you have paper or a shop cloth laid out, polyurethane application is very simple. Just pour some of the liquid onto one of the clean, lint free rags, and wipe the rag onto the wood, following the grain.

Make sure the rag has quite a bit of polyurethane on it, but do not leave puddles of polyurethane on the wood. For the first coat, you should see only a faint shine on the wood after wiping the polyurethane on. Make sure that you get polyurethane in the corners and under the handle in the tray. Let the toolbox sit in a ventilated area for hours after you have applied the first coat the wood should feel dry to the touch.

Once you have completed the first coat, sand the entire toolbox again with grit sandpaper. Wipe out the dust from sanding. Again, wet the rag with polyurethane and wipe it on the entire toolbox. Let it dry and sand it another time. If you want, you can do a third coat, but don't forget to sand afterwards. When you have completed the polyurethane application, let the toolbox air out for a day or two the fumes will still remain for a little while.

Dispose of the rags safely- they will spontaneously combust if wadded up or thrown out when soaked with polyurethane. Line up the top handle on the top piece of the box, and put in all four screws with the drill using the Phillips-head bit.

Lift up the top with the handle. Feels good, right? Clamp the top of the box vertically to the table, and clamp a hinge so that the screw holes line up. Put in 3 of the screws, and repeat this on the other side. Now flip the top piece over again so that a hasp top can be clamped on. Put in 3 screws for both of those pieces also.

Now clamp the top and the base of the box together, and make sure that they are lined up correctly. Make sure that all of the hinge mounting holes line up with the holes that you drilled earlier. Put in the last 3 screws on the hinge. Repeat this on the other hinge. Let's move onto the hasps. Flip the clamped box over, line up the bottom hasp piece, and leave it open. Once it is lined up, clamp it down, but do not close it. Put in the 3 screws that hold it in place, and repeat this on both sides.

You can now undo the clamps that have been holding everything together. Test out the box, and see how well it opens and closes. Try out the hasps, too. Finally, we need to put on the box corners. Line up the metal piece on the corner of the box, and hold one of the small mounting screws with the needlenose pliers. Tap the screw lightly to get it started in the wood, and then use a Phillips-head screwdriver to get it to grab into the wood and screw in.

Once you have installed the corners, you are finished with the toolbox. In terms of my expectations for this project, I was surprised that it came together so easily and that I didn't make any huge mistakes. If you make this toolbox, just take your time and pay attention to what you are doing, and you will have a great outcome. Looking at the finished product, I wanted to point out some important things to know about the completed toolbox.

I was very happy with the final result of my toolbox- it holds all of my tools comfortably. Most importantly, it has enough room to add more tools when needed. A neat addition that came to mind was the possibility of woodburning my initials or other designs onto the wood of the toolbox.

If anyone tries that out, I would love to see the results. In fact, I would love to see any builds of this toolbox- just post an image in the comments below. If you have any suggestions, corrections, or tips, please let me know what you think in the comments section.

I would love to hear any feedback on my first Instructable. Thanks for reading, and best of luck to the other contest participants. May the greatest Instructable win! I wounder on to here from time to time, amazed at what people do and somewhat..

I have a little question, and need some insight. My over all goal is to sort them, by country, a box like this would be epic. How might I go about adding little segregated off areas?

Like slats, or dividers? Or anything you wonderful people, feel might help me on this quest? Also, my medium is pallet wood. Everyone says its stupid, BUT wood is wood.

Yea know? Made this over the last couple of nights. Great, simple and straightforward plans and build. Thanks for putting it together for everyone! I know this is an old thread but hoping to get a response still I don't hate the look of the screws by any means, but think it may look cleaner with them filled.

Finished up yesterday. It's a little heavier than I'd like partly because of the thickness, partly because of the type of wood , but I think it looks pretty nice.

Thanks for posting the Instructable, it was fun! Reply 6 years ago on Introduction. That looks really great! I'm happy that you made one, and it's cool for to see the design made by someone new! Very nice job with that :.

And the wood is most of the weight of the empty box, so you nearly double that when you use 1" thick board. On the bright side, you make up for it in durability what you lose in weight, so it's not a bad tradeoff.

I'm glad that you liked the instructable! Thanks for posting your finished result- it gave me a warm and fuzzy feeling inside that you built it and everything worked out :. What alternate wood would you recommend? I can't find any lumber place near me that stocks poplar. I would go for birch, if poplar is not available. It's strong and stains well, but I'm not sure if the lumber stores near you stock it.

If they don't have birch, you could ask a store employee which wood that is in stock is the best to use for this project, or you can ask me if you want :. I ended up using pine after talking with my neighbor who's an avid woodworker. I've never really done a project like this, so if nothing else it should let me learn a little bit about the process. Sounds great! I would love to hear about or see pictures of your completed product when you are finished- I've never made a toolbox out of pine before, so it's a new thing for me too.

A left blade circular saw? Never understood why most circs saw have the blade on the opposite side where you have to STAND over the saw to see where you're cutting. It appears that worm drive Hypoid saws and cordless are the only ones that are always left blade. Thank you! No need to apologize for the tangent- I couldn't agree more!

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