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The following account off changing planer knives is a much abbreviated version of Shopnotes 48 nov , pp. Maintenance and Tune up:. For older jointers, vintage s, s or earlier, Ernie Conover's articles, Herman Hjorth, both and eds, and especially Daniel W. Irvin, are recommended and all are listed in bibliography below.
For later models, I recommend Shopnotes 48 November , chapter 6 of Rick Peters, jointers and planers: how to choose, use and maintain them , and R J Decristoforo, Woodworking Mistakes and Solutions , McGraw-Hill, Planer Anatomy and Characteristics:.
Either a stationary or a portable tool, the "thickness" or surface planer is designed to 1 make the broad surfaces of a workpiece flat and smooth and 2 an even thickness throughout it's length. Types of Planers: back to top. Designed to be light enough to be picked up and carried, portable planers are ideal for taking to jobsites. Rather than the bed being adjustable, in portable planers, the motor adjusts up or down to accommodate the workpiece.
Most portable planers will handle material up to 6 inches thick by 12 inches wide. Planer- Molder:. Dual-purpose machines, planer-molders both function like ordinary planers also will cut custom moldings from plain workpieces. The planer knives can be interchanged with knives with different profiles on left side, below , to cut an infinite number of different types of moldings.
On right, below is a picture frame profile coming out of a molder. This is NOT a recommendation, however. This illustration is adapted from p. The rotary head of planers dates from the William Woodworth pattern of More details on Woodworth and early planers are given in Hjorth's chapter 1, in both the and editions of the two editions, the , listed above in the caption for planer's internal mechanism -- William F.
Holtrop has become senior author -- is the more recommended but for a more up-to-date account, use Irvin fully described in bibliography at end. In general, see jointer knives above. High-speed steel and carbide knives exist on the market for all machines. High-speed steel are least expensive while carbide will last longer. For combination planer-molders a myriad of different knives and standard and custom profiles are available.
See comments above on cutterheads for jointers. Bed Design. The distance between the cutterhead and the bed controls thickness of the material being planed. Most planer designs today use a configuration in which the bed moves up and down under the cutterhead.
The planer on my Robland is an example of the up-and-down operating bed. Evidently, besides the portable jointer, with the universal motor, there are a few designs in which the cutterhead moves up and down. Bed Rollers and Feed Rollers. These details are too technical for a brief overview like this, but important, if you own a stationary planer with bed and feed rollers. Consult Conover or Irvin, cited in bibliography below. These details are also too technical for a brief overview like this, but important, if you own a stationary planer with bed and feed rollers.
Consult Conover or Irvin. Most twelve inch machines need a minimum of three horsepower and, if they lack bed rollers, five. Machines in the eighteen inch range need a minimum of five horsepower and more if they have babbet bearings or driven bed rollers. Machines in the twenty-four and thirty-six inch range need seven and one half to ten horsepower minimum.
Adapted from Conover, Portable or benchtop planers have universal motors. In general, see comments above on jointer knives. Feed Rate And Speed.
Much debate exists about the necessity of variable feed rates, rates of feed, and cuts per inch. Complicating the picture, all of these components are interdependent, and vary greatly with the diameter of the cutterhead.
Above adapted from Conover, Remember Conover's rule: S 4 S. Cutterhead configurations are of two, mostly three, and evidently, four knives. Now, with fix link segmented carbide cutters just coming into the market, cutterhead configurations are changing again. For a picture, figure 12, p. There are a few designs in which the cutterhead moves up and down. The distance between the cutterhead and the bed controls thickness of the material being plane.
These details are too technical for a brief overview like this two-hour session, but is important, if you own a stationary planer with bed and feed rollers.
Chippers And Pressure Bar. There is much debate in the industry today about the necessity of variable feed rates, rates of feed, and cuts per inch. Complicating the picture, all of the factors are interdependent on each other and vary greatly with the diameter of the cutterhead.
Of necessity, we have to speak in generalities, but it is safe to say, "the larger the diameter of the cutterhead, the better. The formula to derive this Is as follows: cutterhead speed times the number of knives in the cutterhead. Although this is certainly a nice feature to have. I'm not sure it is something that should negate the purchase of a particular planer. Generally speaking. It is a feature that can be useful to someone who constantly works in very exotic woods.
Motor: Horsepower: directly from Ernie Conover. Planer Knives:. In general, see comments above on jointer knives, including comments on the new segmented carbide cutters. This process usually includes: adjusting infeed and outfeed table heights to be in line with the inner table adjusting or changing knives and replacing the motor brushes if needed.
Dust Collection systems will remove most dust and chips planers produce , but the remaining debris must be removed, most easily with a blast of air from a compressor, but vacuuming is another method that works. Usually, these are gears and chain, roller bearings, height adjustment mechanisms, cutter bearings but some motors also need lubrication.
New planers feature dust collection ports, and after-market DC accessories can be purchased for most machines. And, according to Conover, most older machines can be retrofitted with infeed and outfeed rollers. Knives for planer-molders. Because the thickness planer is a self-feeding machine:. Keep hands at least 12 inches from the blades and.
Do not wear loose clothing. Disconnect machine before doing anything inside it. Wear safety glasses and hearing protection. Clear the areas in front of and behind the machine to eliminate tripping. Make sure sufficient room exists beyond the machine for workpiece to discharge. Make sure there are no nails or screws in the board.
Summary of features to check for the quality of a jointer and a planer. Assessing quality: For both these tools, quality of parts and construction are important for lifetime of continued accuracy. Except for motor and belts, all parts of jointers and planers except for portable planers are usually steel cutter head and knives and cast iron tables and fence.
This is especially critical when choosing whether to purchase a used machine. True, jointers have less rotating parts, which means less likelihood of problems. However, worn bearings in cutterheads could be a problem.
All of these could display signs of neglect. Working with a vibrating planer is unnerving. Operate the planer by planing different types of workpieces. Are the results satisfactory? If there are signs that suggest repairs or replacement parts are needed, would making these adjustments be easily achieved? Finally, consult the Irvin manual or some of the other sources listed in bibliography.
Without changing anything else, the three-knife head increases the cuts per inch by a third. The more cuts per inch, the smoother the jointed surface. If you move the wood across the cutterhead too quickly, you can dramatically reduce the cuts per inch and induce the rippled or wavy-looking surface.
If the knives are all equal in height, simply slowing the feed rate a bit will cure the ripple problem. Exactly how fast of a feed rate is right is hard to describe. The easiest thing to remember is that you have to let the jointer do its work. Taking your time will always produce better results. It is much harder to go too slow than too fast on a jointer. When in doubt slow the feed rate!
A joiner that is otherwise properly aligned and equipped with sharp knives will create a smooth, chip-free surface - as long as you are working with the grain and not against it. It surprises me sometimes how many of us forget grain direction at the jointer.
But, lots of us do. The jointer knives are turning towards the operator so the grain must be running towards the operator also. That way the knives are cutting down the grain, not into it. On some boards it can be downright difficult to read the grain precisely.
The way boards are cut these days, you can actually get grain running in both directions. In these situations taking very light cuts in both directions and picking the direction of feed that produces the best looking surface can be the only workable solution.
Some of the solutions in this story call for reversing the board after each of the initial cuts. When you do that be sure to take very light cuts as you always should anyway and switch to working with the grain exclusively as soon as possible.
Some chipping is likely to occur during the early reverse cuts but that will be removed in the final cuts with the grain. If you are unsure about reading grain, see my story "Reading Grain Orientation" at the link in the Resources section at the end of this story.
Snipe nearly always occurs on the jointer at the trailing end of the board. Also, the snipe is confined to an inch or two at the end of the board. Most often this is caused by the outfeed table being lower than the knives when they are at the top of their arc. As the end of the board leaves the infeed table it drops onto the outfeed table, making a deeper cut in that last portion of the board.
You will notice that the length of the snipe approximates the distance from the edge of the infeed table to the center of the knives. The cure is simple - adjust the outfeed table so that its surface is flush with the knives at the top of their arc. Also, Using A Jointer Plane Quotes make sure that all of the knives are at the same height.
Knife height alone is not likely to cause snipe but it is not uncommon to find miss-adjusted knives when the outfeed table was set wrong. Take the time to check! First, we have to be aware that the joiner does not have any way to tell if it is tapering a board.
See my related story " My Jointer Cuts Tapers! If you take enough cuts, a jointer will taper a board to some extent. That alone does not mean anything is wrong with it!
The outfeed table being higher than the knives can cause tapering. Often by the second or third cut the end of the board will begin catching on the edge of the outfeed table which is a good indication that this is the case. Also, the taper will cover more and more of the board as additional cuts are taken. Initially the taper will be confined to the first portion of the board but because the jointer dutifully does its job, the taper will continue to be cut further down the board until the entire surface being jointed is involved if you take sufficient number of cuts.
The jointers natural tendency to taper also increases with the number of cuts. Usually the tapering process is very slow when the jointer is properly aligned.
However, the shape of some boards just lend themselves to tapering. If you have a board with a bow over its length, tapering can result if you start with the high point of the bow facing down.
With the ends of the bow down you may have to reverse the board after each initial cut to get more of its length on the jointer table. Then you can make cuts with the grain until the board is flattened. Shortening longer boards closer to the length actually needed for the project will minimize this tapering also. The trick here to minimize tapering is to take as few cuts as is really needed to flatten the board and then take it to the planer to cut the opposing side parallel to it.
When the jointer itself is suspected, the most common cure is to make sure that the outfeed table is set flush with the edge of the knives at the highest point in their arc.
Make sure that all of the knives are flush with the outfeed table surface or the tapering will continue. Here again, the jointer has no way to tell if it is tapering the board. Taking a lot of passes will almost certainly induce some amount of tapering so keeping the passes and depth of cut to a minimum is always best.
Click Here to learn how to use a router as a jointer. OPTIONAL: If your table saw cuts nice and square and leaves a clean finish by having the correct, and sharp blade , then you may not need any more edge-jointing. This will ensure crisp, clean, flat, squared edges on each side of each board in the glue up. Come home and make a list of the various widths and lengths they have, then design your projects around these boards.
Squaring up rough cut lumber requires a square end from which to measure for final length. If done properly, you can safely make repeated cuts using a stop block. Click Here to see how to use your table saw miter gauge. Not only that, but a good table saw sled incorporates a stop-block for duplicating cuts, clamps, 45 degree miter support, and even advanced joinery attachments like for dovetails.
Click Here to see how to use a premium Table Saw Sled. The final step for squaring up rough cut lumber is to make the second end of the board square, at the desired length for that board. Remember, you cannot flatten a board with a bow in it using just the planer.
If the board is shaped like a banana going in, it will be shaped like a banana coming out. Here is a simple planing sled you can make to flatten a board that has a bow in it. This can also work on boards that have a slight twist. The 2 edges are added to keep the sled flat and straight. These sides cannot protrude higher than the board in the sled will be.
Also glue a strip at the front, this will allow the work piece to push against that end and keep the sled moving. It has a bow as you can see here when I push down on one end:. Shim under the board wherever there are high spots. To make sure none of the shims shift while planing, use a hot glue gun to temporarily glue everything in place.
Just a little at each shim will do it, and a couple spots where the board touches the sled.
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