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japanese-crosscut-timber-saw-line Thanks Jim! I worked as a tree climber in my younger days, but never did much with hand saws. Hi Richard! Richard runs 'The English Woodworker' as an online resource and video education crozscut those japanese crosscut timber saw line for a fuss free approach to building fine furniture by hand. Can you really think of a more impractical way of getting food from a plate to your mouth? Quick View Item 06Q Start out by buying a semi-disposable, resharpenable saw at the largest end of the spectrum you need.

Same here. We can learn a lot from Japanese artisans on their approach to work, maybe in design and general appearance, not so much in terms of actual techniques. Joinery is exactly the same but the choice of it is different though , most of the tools is the same, their sharpening techniques produce identical results to traditional western techniques. Not sure why you create more firewood with a western saw.

Japanese saws stay sharper for a lot longer than 6 months. I bet even professional woodpeckers have Japanese saws that they use for a lot longer than six months. And why throw the blade away? Why not use the blade as a scraper when its down being a saw…. Because they loose a tooth or two when used on hardwoods. Or it might hit an embedded rock or a screw.

Or a nasty knot. There are also woods with high silicone content cedar, etc. I mainly work with native wood though, so nothing too hard, and I am pretty selective about knots and the like. My sentiments exactly. I bought one, thinking about the fine cuts I could make.

Would you believe; I could still cut dovetails, and they still fitted? Sorry my American friends; still fit. At 79 years of age, maybe I should learn my lesson. Stick with what you know. I will resist and stick with my Marples chisels, and their cold, smooth, tool steel. What an edge! I use Japanese saws exclusively. Gravity is key. I take 2 approaches. For cross cuts, I tack the board to my bench with holdfasts and have it hanging off the back or side.

I start the cut closest to me, with the handle pointing down. Rip cuts, especially long ones, are more difficult with this method because I end up next to the piece instead of directly over it. Bad news. A pair of very low Japanese style saw horses keep me from hauling my slightly overweight and out of shape arse on top of my bench. What I described above is probably not the traditional way, but the saw is working as it was intended to, and I cannot argue with the results.

It did feel a little clumsy ripping that way though. Some low sawhorses are right up there on the short list of things I need. Come on Richard; a youth liked you should have no trouble climbing onto a bench!!! I HAVE to do it to reach my timber rack!

Well sometimes I get Number One Son to do it! I echo those who use Japanese saws exclusively. So, my saws have never been through a full length rip cut. But, I have found that I am much more comfortable using Japanese saws, and find that I have more control and better results.

I could see myself going back to western saws eventually, and still have my old ones on hand. One thing at a time! I get less than 10 hours per week to enjoy my workshop, and you can be certain that at least half of those are when I should be sleeping. Their not that disposable, and allow the time constrained woodworker to just crack on. I use them more than I do my western saws. I have decided that my next will be one that I can sharpen.

I use them in a very hybrid manner, depending on the cut and the lumber. I do not like using them one-handed unless absolutely necessary. I must say though I find myself very tempted by some of those beautiful hand made re-sharpenable ones.

I can sharpen them easily enough. I watched a video by the Samurai Carpenter who talked about how difficult it is to sharpen the authentic imported models and is cost-prohibitive to send to Japan for resharpening unsure about stateside sharpening. Regarding replacement blades — I have enough scrap metal in my shop. I have a hard point saw and bought it for the same reason I bought the Japanese saw…curiosity.

No judgment from me for those who love them…different strokes and all. Good article and great discussion! The difficulty or lack of sharpening is certainly the main turn off, so like yourself I will almost definitely be sticking to western saws long term. My mm ryoba gets a ton of use and I sharpened it at 6 months, still going strong at that point.

True resharpenable blades become more cost effective if you use them a lot and want to keep up on them…. When I mentioned sharpening the Japanese saws I was thinking primarily about the crosscut teeth.

That is some interesting geometry to contend with. I must admit, those Japanese saws do have a rather satisfying feel when you pull it towards yourself to cut the wood. Went for a sharpen… I take my hat of to you. Thanks for the tip on the diamond feather file, I might have to give it a go. In this context, I just want to add, that there are also single-faced feather edge saw files available.

These are more suitable for sharpening the cross-cut teeth geometry of japanese saws, since you are less likely to touch the neighbouring tooth. I think you need a disclaimer, Richard.

Have you tried the Classic frame saws sold by Dictum? The universal blades work quite well on both rip and cross cuts, and they make dedicated rip and cross cut blades in the mm length. I have found that these saws are unbeatable for most general work, and then I turn to my traditional Japanese saws for the finer work. I also use a number of Western saws. The thing I like most about the frame saws is that the Japanese blades will track a simple knife line with no need to deepen it with a chisel.

Issue two is the slick caning they wrap the handle with, it bothered me enough that I ended up wrapping the handle with friction tape. The Dozuki was around I think a replacement blade is close to Good point, sometimes super thin blades can be an issue. That would undoubtadly helped keep the saw tracking.

Is my observation correct? How much weight? It hangs on a nail in the end of the bench. I know what you mean though, it does look like a weight. As for the planes, the one I have seems to be alright, but again, so confusing on what is a good one and what is a not so good one!

I once read that if you want good Japanese tools, you need to trust a dealer on what they tell you is reputable and good! Hi David, you certainly do have to re-educate. You might try standing on the floor, leaning the workpiece against your bench, holding the near end with your knee or foot.

I worked in Korea way back in the 80s before I was really getting into woodworking and remember the carpenters doing long rips that way. There were a bunch of really fancy houses around my apartment building with some amazing trim work being done by hand. To watch those Korean craftsman now with a woodworking mind would be priceless. I pick whichever version suits the job, some Japanese, some Western. There might be some shops out there that offer that service. I agree with the sentiment of turning them into scrapers.

The steel in even the shark corp brand disposables is excellent. And you actually can get the blades for twenty dollars fit it with your own handle.

And even as the blades start to dull you can throw one in the back of of the pick up to use at the lumber yard. I like Japanese chisels. I have nothing against the Japanese, but I do sometimes feel, if there Japanese Pattern Crosscut Timber Saw Control is an ass-about-face way of doing things, the Japanese will adopt it.

Chopsticks for instance. Can you really think of a more impractical way of getting food from a plate to your mouth? In particular Westerners using chop sticks.

Ass-about-face, ha ha, that sums my old man up. It would be called character building! It can be done, of course, but without elegance and with more difficulty than is necessary. Chopsticks, on the other hand, being essentially just long finger extensions, are perfect for gripping recalcitrant leaves of this sort.

So too grabbing and flipping bacon stirring sauce and so on. Meanwhile of course to attack a fine piece of sushi with a fork would be high barbarism. A tool to match the job, and the person doing the job, always. Essentialism, never. If you want to know how natural chopsticks are, try getting a pickle out of a half-full jar with Japanese Crosscut Timber Saw Review the least amount of faffing about. The reason they feel awkward to most of us is we keep trying to eat off flat plates with them.

You never serve rice or noodles on a flat plate, you put them in a bowl. Hi Richard, I have swollen disc in my lower back and sometimes have trouble standing for too long. I have built a low, wide saw horse type bench that I sit on to perform a lot of tasks. I have an old vise bolted on one end and I sit at the other.

The work is help in the vise vertically and I use saw as the Japanese intended, pulling with both hands. The saw also dictates that I sit upright with a straight back, thus adopting the correct posture. Incidentally, this saw, as you probably know has rip on one side and cross cut on the other. Me and bad back love Japanese saws.

I have not used Japanese saws, but recently treated myself to a lovely 20in Pax rip saw. It is so sharp that I had difficulty cutting a straight line. I usually either clamp wood upright in the vice or clamped flat to the bench to rip, but I have just made a split top saw bench at knee height.

The knee on the wood position has worked perfectly. Lovely straight lines almost from the off. I wonder if you know that you have to fettle your new saw the same as you have to fettle your new plane or chisel?

Draw a straight line on the wood and cut along it. This will show you where to stone. If the saw tracks to the right, this means the set on the right side of the saw are generally sticking out more than on the left.

Lay the saw flat on the bench with the right side up. Run a sharpening strong — lightly — from heel to toe handle to tip , ONCE. Try another cut. Assess and repeat until it tracks straight. If you start tracking the other way, lightly stone that side. You have to be light with the stone, in other words push it along rather than down, for fine control. Hope this helps.

Both my saws are 15 years old Victors from Axminster and see a lot of use and now rarely wander off line. Have been wrestling with some budget saws and blaming my dodgy technique for the way they drift. While I fully understand western push saws and how they are sharpened. And, whileI like the fact that at a moments notice I can touch up a Rip or Dovetail saw… all my Western Crosscut saws I send to a pro for sharpening.

The cost of a skilled professional and the shipping both ways is approaching the cost of a good Japanese saw. While there are different levels of quality in Japanese saws as in Western… even a mid prices quality will stay sharp many times longer.

I feel that the Continental Frame saws with thin blades, could easily adopt the Japanese saw technology and could be pulled or pushed. Disposable blades while maintaining a nice wooden frame. My knees will not permit me to take on the working positions of most of our Japanese woodworking friends, there are methods of work at a bench with the aid of a stool or chair which can give similar results. Like a Western backsaw, it has a thick steel spine that keeps the blade rigid as you cut.

But unlike a Western backsaw, a dozuki cuts on the pull stroke, and it has a much thinner blade that excels at precise cutting. They cost less, but can still handle most of the joinery work required for furniture construction. For many woodworkers, the answer is the kataba yokobiki.

The kataba eliminates this problem. Quick View. Add to Cart. View Details. Z-Saw - Dozuki mm with Replaceable Blade. Shark - Takumi Dozuki Hand Saw, Takumi - Kugihiki Dowel Saw, Model Harima - Keyhole Saw Hikimawashi Nokogiri 4 inch x 15tpi.

Hishika - Dozuki mm Small Work Saw. You must be logged in to write a comment. Log In. Find a Store. My Account. My Cart. Go to Home Page. Mobile Navigation. Same Day Shipping Find a Store. Search Go. Topics Cabinetry. Choosing Hardware. Dust Collection. Friends of Woodcraft. Getting Started with Woodworking. Make Something. Pen Kit Reference Chart. Press Releases. Resin Casting. Shop Talk. Woodcraft Magazine. Woodworking Adventures.

Download PDF. Expand your tool arsenal with handsaws that belong to a centuries-old tradition of craftsmanship Today I teach Japanese woodworking techniques and take on custom woodworking projects in my Brooklyn studio, but my first exposure to Japanese-style woodworking was entirely accidental.

Pull saw pros and cons The pros and cons of pull saws have a great deal to do with their thinner blades and with the way that crosscutting blades are sharpened see photos below. PROS Less energy required for cutting. Faster cutting than Western-style handsaws.

More flexibility in cutting positions. Thin kerf is an advantage in certain situations. Saws with replaceable blades eliminate the need to sharpen or repair a dull or damaged blade. Long handle accommodates two-handed grip when necessary. CONS Crosscutting teeth can be easily damaged by misuse or accidental impact. Too long to fit in a toolbox. But folding pull saws overcome this limitation.

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