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how-to-build-a-steam-box-for-windows-command I had a good spot where it could live and my preference was to place the chamber in its home and then use and store it in that same spot. Guide Index. Portable Steam Cabinet Companion to the Portable paint and putty steam stripper. The inlet still softens considerably, so its best you don't bump it while in use, bit it's been fine for me so far. Steam radiators.

The cabinet can handle multiple windows allowing you to be working on one window while another is steaming. Restoration and Preservation professionals - will appreciate a low cost, portable, easy to build steam cabinet that greatly speeds the production time of window stripping, deglazing and restoration. Whether you have 1 over 1 or 16 over 16 windows, you will realize the benefits of the portable cabinet the first time you use it. What about stripping paint from doors? I did make the steam enter through a hole I put in the wood frame, which definitely provides more support than the insulation alone would, so at least I get points for that.

But I also placed a steam outlet hole in box which I thought would help things, which was another fail because it just let the steam come out of the box and didn't let it heat up as efficiently. So I guess I lose the points I won for that one. I ended up caping off this outlet and just sealing it up with tape. The box, frame, and steam hookup were all built, and the only thing left was the door for the front of the box to seal everything up while it was in use. I debated just how I wanted to handle this and eventually came to a solution I'm rally happy with.

I cut a door frame from the cedar just a little larger than the insulation panel. Once I had the frame set I just popped the panel into the door and then applied some foil tape to the top, middle, and bottom to secure the whole thing and installed the hinges. In retrospect I should have bought H style hinges, but these small strap hinges worked well enough.

I added them to the side of the cabinet and then bent the hinge to wrap around the front of the door since it was a little long. After adding a thumb latch at the top and bottom of the opposite side I quickly had myself a nearly fully sealed door. There were a few medium sized gaps here and there letting steam out, so I applied a little flexible adhesive foam weather stripping around the interior of the door and made sure it all compresses down when the latches are enabled.

Right away the seal was perfect. The final step was to drill a hole in the side of the wood and insulation that was just big enough to stick the lead on the thermostat through. This way I would be able to keep an eye on the actual temperature of the box using the digital thermometer, which is primarily to give an indication that it's heating up the way I want it to.

Firing up the steamer it seemed to be working well as the top of the box was almost degrees Fahrenheit, but the bottom through a second thermometer hole was only getting up around s. Again, thanks to the fact that the inlet of the box being positioned near the top of the box, my adjusted steam delivery approach no longer How To Build A Steam Box For Windows For Mac 3 arm , and physics heat rises , it just wasn't heating up evenly. The original thought of the outlet port was to allow the box to fill with steam from the top, pushing the cold air out of the bottom through the outlet port, and ultimately reaching top temperature.

But in reality, and maybe because our steamer isn't powerful enough, the steam was just hanging around in the top and failed to fill the whole box. To solve this problem I did what seemed to be the easiest and most straight forward thing I could think of I flipped the whole thing over so steam would enter in at the bottom.

Since the outlet port was now at the top of the box, it would just allow the steam to escape, which is why it was best to just seal it up and cap it off. After all of my trial and error I finally had a steam box that would come up to temperature and stay heated while the steamer was on. I decided to build our steam chamber as a vertical chamber rather than a more traditional horizontal chamber. The main difference between the two is simply where the steam inlet port is located, and really, you could make any vertical a horizontal and vice versa if you wanted.

But my reasoning was simple. First of all, I wanted to take up less space in the basement. I had a good spot where it could live and my preference was to place the chamber in its home and then use and store it in that same spot.

Second, the steam chamber makes a tremendous amount of condensation, and I felt like it would be better to steam the window sash sitting on their end and leaning against the wall of the vertical chamber rather than sitting flat on the bottom and allowing water to pool on the window glass and sash.

I just feel like it will be more efficient situated vertically. After my first few test runs I realized just how much water collects in the bottom of the chamber as the steam turns to liquid. As a result I made sure to tilt the chamber forward just a little and the water is able to escape out the front and towards the drain in our basement. If you're doing this in a place that doesn't have a drain or you don't want your floor to get wet, it might be good to place the whole thing in a plastic pan or provide some outlet where the water can drain into a small bucket or tray.

The final thing I realized was that it is helpful to keep the sash up as close to the top of the box as possible, since it will always be hotter up there. When the sash are smaller than the box I placed a wood stand in the box for the sash to sit on, boosting them up and keeping them out of the water.

No matter what I'll at least put a board in the bottom on which to sit things so it doesn't just sit in the water while being steamed. The whole steaming process takes about 45 minutes for us on our sash.

This includes the time it takes to come up to temperature, then cook. During this time you'll likely see a little steam escaping and you can keep an eye on the temperature with the digital thermometer.

Steam is very hot again, physics , so I always wear protective gloves when operating the steamer. You should too! The sash in the steamer is hot, but the steam that escapes from the box right when you open it is even hotter.

After 45 minutes I turn off the steamer, How To Build A Steam Box For Windows Old Version then I unlatch and crack the door of the box to allow the first wave of steam to escape. If you just open the door right away you'll get a giant face full of steam, and that will hurt.

Trust me, we learned this first hand, and Lulu, who hates alarms, was not happy with this fact. When you open the box immediately grab your sash and lay it down on your work surface. You'll only have a few minutes to quickly work around the windows and remove any softened glazing or paint before it begins to harden again.

I'll provide a more detailed description of the process for removing all of the glazing and paint in an upcoming post, including the tools that have worked best for me. But this steam box certainly makes short work of what was previously a difficult and tedious process. In the past I've used a heat gun to soften the putty, which often resulted in broken panes of glass. It's also very easy to damage the sash with really hard old glazing, so softening it with steam certainly goes a long way to helping preserve your window's antique wood.

One other thing of note, when you're done using the steam box leave the door open while it all dries. If you close the door and walk away you'll come back days later and still have condensation sitting inside the box. And if you have wood in there, that wood will be covered in mold. While we don't have a ton of windows to strip and reglaze, we have enough that it made sense to build my own steam box. That includes all of the time I spent building the dumb PVC piping that I ended up scraping in the long run.

The main lessons I learned if I were building another is simply to keep it simple, put the steam inlet on the bottom, don't worry about an outlet or steam distribution system, possibly build the whole thing up a little higher off the ground in order to make water collection easier, and tape the the interior seams as well, especially on the bottom. Does this project seem like something you're going to take on? I would love to hear how it turns out if you give a steam box build of your own a try.

We built a steam box to restore the year old windows in our Gothic Revival in AL. Also, you have to work fast to remove the old glazing before it cools my sashes have 9 panes each. I decided to switch to scrapers, dental and carving tools, and sandpaper with a mask. I imagine this might change when I get into the one 6 over 6 window we have. I am in awe of you attention to detail, hope this works for you since you deserve an easier fix to a tedious task.

Wow, just wow. I'm a bit confused about the word "glazing. That doesn't seem to fit with how you use the word, because you use it in addition to using "glass," "glazing points," and "putty.

Given this, what do you mean when you talk about the glazing? For example, that the paint stripper would soften the glazing, and sometimes the glazing would come right out. In this case when I refer to glazing im talking about the compound or putty and I use it somewhat interchangeable with putty meaning the same thing.

But also keep in mind that glazing can be a verb as well as a noun. Clear as mud? This makes me very happy. I want to restore all of our original windows and last year I decided to test out on one of our storm windows because it doesn't have wavy glass in it so I wasn't as worried about breaking it and I ended up breaking 2 panes before giving up and realized that this was going to take a lot more time, effort, and thought that I originally planned.

I've decided to wait to fix my windows until I have proper time to dedicate to just them, but this sounds like a totally viable solution to the very problem I was having! Makes me wish I would have tried this on my window project! Enough wood for a 7 x 1 x 1 box.

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Solid Bridging. I asked my contractor this question he has the cable running w the steam pi Read More. Smoke from residential chimney at 85 degrees I live in a tall building in New York City over apartments and there' I have several radiators with danfoss RA valves on them that are not he Schluter profile in shower. Because t Hi everybody, I live in a year old building in NYC. There are a number Power from temp pole to building breaker box.

Hi folks! I have a temporary power pole set up with 2 20 amp breakers Need help building wooden window box planters. I have 3 large window boxes permanent, bolted to the outside of the house

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