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hardwood-sanding-machine-90 But every floor is different and the condition of your floor will determine how you sand it. Hi Ben, I live in a year old home that is sxnding on the National Register. Any suggestions? Or is yellowing inevitable? I have a lot of experience refinishing wood furniture so I thought it might be worth a shot. I also recently purchased a Festool Rotex sander. Utility knives are hardwood sanding machine 90 devil's tool.

The goal to scraping a corner is to remove old finish and level corner with the rest of the floor. The best way to achieve this is by having a very sharp scraper. We achieve this with a good, metal, inch-wide file you can find at a hardware store. Or you can flip your edge sander over, turn it on with grit sand paper on, and gently grind the scraper to produce a sharp edge. Watch to keep the scraper level, not angled, and not to remove too much metal.

Sharpen often, after every corner if needed. We liken it to sharpening a pencil, shaving the wood in the corners. You will have shavings. You can hand sand corners with grit to blend. Use grit screen under your buffer pad to blend the edges with the rest of the floor to get the surface as smooth as possible.

Remember, there is two sides to a screen — so flip mid-way through — and use more than one screen for a larger area. Buff slowly and thoroughly. The more you go over it, the smoother it gets. Thoroughly vacuum the floor and other areas with wand and crevice device. We recommend a hair bristle or felt-bottomed wand to protect the floor. Use care if you use a plastic wand … three layers of blue tape recommended on the edges. Your floor is now ready for staining, sanding sealer, or a first coat of polyurethane.

Username or Email Address. It sometimes has to do with how they were taught the trade. Just like installers, finishers do things slightly different.

Guys that follow the NWFA way and others that only use a two grit system with absolutely no difference. The two grit system usually starts with 36 or 40 and finishes with 80 grit. Following this, both finishing methods are finally screened with a rotary machine and usually a grit screen. During the initial sanding with a course grit, finishers usually start off a parallel wall shown in the first picture below on the left. Consistent movements are critical.

Each and every pass going parallel to the wall has to be similar. Otherwise you may face problems in getting the initial course grit scratch marks out when moving to the next grit. When sanding, one should be overlapping the previous run along the wall when going backwards on the machine. Most recommendations say to start the sanding process where two thirds illustration below of the floor is done on the first pass going forward. Methods will be a little different in that the staring grit may be twenty.

See my pages on wax buildup removal that also includes a video. Even though you may have moved on to a finer grit, those big, coarse particles from previous passes are still being driven into the floor by your drum and edger. Even under your fine paper, they continue to grind their 16 grit cat-scratch into the floor, and you will wonder where all those big, deep gouges are coming from. In both those cases, particularly on the edger, you need to work harder to make sure that all evidence of your sanding is removed, which is easier to do when you can sand to a finer grit.

Maple is so hard and dense that any scratch left in the wood is held cleanly and crisply. Those crisp incisions make a snug little crevice for stain, or even natural finishes to accumulate. Once you have pigment or product built up in that scratch, it becomes twice as visible, particularly the curved scratch from the edger.

As your floor gets progressively cleaner, it gets harder and harder to tell where the sanders have been. So, we recommend using a series of light pencil lines drawn directly on the floor before you begin 60grit and again before you begin 80grit. The drum sander will erase any pencil lines it touches and the lines that remain will show you exactly where you need to edge. This also keeps your rental of that extra sander down to an absolute minimum.

Carbide scrapers are great, but can be expensive. Multi-tools like the Fein or Bosch have small, triangular Hardwood Sanding Machine Tool sanding heads that also work well. No matter how long you have been sanding floors, no matter how skilled you are with the edger, there will still be edger swirl left around the perimeter of your room, even after you finished sanding through grit. After you finish your final edger pass, you should inspect the entire perimeter of your project on hands and knees and with a flashlight if necessary to locate every last bit of visible sanding scratch from the edger.

When you find it, remove it by hand-sanding with 80 grit. A palm or orbital sander is more powerful than your hand and will so over-polish the floor that, while the swirls will be gone, the texture of that area will be much smoother and more closed than the areas that were done with either the drum or the edger.

These areas will not allow finish to absorb as easily or deeply and will have a distinctly different tone than the surrounding floor. Do you know how, when you look at the outfield at a baseball game, they stripe the field just by mowing adjacent areas in different directions?

The place where the straight scratch from the drum sander meets the circular scratch from the edger can show up as a line, just as distinct as one of those outfield mowing lines. Once that coat of finish is down, it takes a lot Hardwood Sanding Machine Jacket of work to fix this problem, so the idea is to prevent it from happening in the first place.

And prevention is easy, but it needs to happen just as you are at your most exhausted. But before you begin your final cleanup, you need to use a pole sander or a buffer to do one final, blend-sand over your entire floor. Using or grit, you will put a shallow, but most importantly uniform scratch pattern over the entire floor. This will fool your finish into believing that only one machine left its mark on your floor and it will absorb uniformly into the wood and will look consistent and blotch-free everywhere.

Getting all the dust off is more important than we can ever say. Pay particular attention to the dust in the cracks between the boards and at the very edges of the room, especially the gap under the baseboards. Finish has a way of finding little hidden pockets of dust and pulling it up and spreading it along with your mop head.

Try not to use the plastic wand on your shop vac — it can leave plastic residue marks where it scrapes on the floor. Find a vacuum wand with strong, soft bristles. Buy us a coffee Shop for products online. We love educating people, but it's expensive. And we're uncomfortable taking questions about products you bought on Amazon.

Most first-time sanders are horrified when they see the sheer aggression of the sandpapers we use for floor sanding. And many of them flat-out refuse to use anything coarser than a 36grit sandpaper on their floors. They're worried about taking off too much wood and ruining their floor. Stop worrying. So those horrifyingly rough grits are necessary because wood is hard and old wood floors are scratched and damaged and usually still coated in some sort of low-melting-point finish.

Removing all that old finish and damaged wood requires big guns. Don't worry; we promise to advise you on the best grits to use and we won't let you grind your floor down to the nubbins! Buy 12grit sandpaper. You can damage your floors just taking out the carpet! Never let your knife cut into the wood itself - it digs deeper than you think, and leaves cuts that are almost impossible to sand out.

Instead, tear up enough carpet to fold over a section and cut on the fold. We rent sanders for your projects, and will give you a free lesson on the equipment. When you first start sanding an old floor, you can tell exactly where the sander has been and how effective your feathering technique is, just by looking at your sander mark.

This first photo illustrates what happens when you are using the drum sander incorrectly - you can tell that the drum was still touching the floor when the sander stopped at the wall to change direction.

But in this photo, it is clear that the operator was smoothly lifting the drum off the floor as she prepared to stop at the wall to change direction. The photo also shows that the drum was correctly feathered onto the floor as she began her backward pass.

In shop class, 80grit is barely considered a medium grade of sandpaper.

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