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dowel-holes-with-router-networks They'd be a bit too far jpart or too close together. Dowel holes with router networks clamp is screwed to a pad that makes it easy to shift the clamp's position to accommodate different sizes of workpieces. My 2 shop rule: Use dowels only when absolutely holss else works! You can put metal bushings in the holes in the jig to slow wear and wobble. The workpieces are clamped beneath the template. That would be my most earnest suggestion after 40 years in the business.

Build it with multiple pin bars; you can buy them at McMaster-Carr in all different sizes in mm and stock for a steel fence. Use a small square gauge with the depth the same. They both should line up exactly every time as long as they are drilled properly.

Press to mark the center positions of the holes in the end panel. There are a few jigs out there that might work — the Dow'l Simp'l jig, Woodpecker's MT Doweling jig, or you could make a homemade jig. Personally, I use pocket screws or a dado and rabbet setup. A biscuit joiner, Festool's Domino or a horizontal mortiser could also be used for greater accuracy.

It works just as good or better and your panels line up real good. Hood Cabinetry. Also you might try pocket hole screws.

That would be my most earnest suggestion after 40 years in the business. Much easier to use and align. This will perfectly line up the vertical. Then adjust the horizontal depending on the thickness of the bulkhead. Have something to say? Share your thoughts with us in the comments below. View the discussion thread. Scroll Down for more stories. What a disappointment!

Maybe it was me, and maybe it was the jig. It just never worked for me the way I thought it should. The holes in the rails just would never match up with the holes in the stilcs. They'd be a bit too far jpart or too close together. And jig or not. Twenty years later, I'm using a plunge router with my shop-made doweling jig with far better results.

Alter a bit of setup, 1 can knock out whole sets of dowel-jointed face frames, with all the holes aligned, square, and perfectly and consistently positioned. The trick is a template that has several holes bored in it. The workpieces are clamped beneath the template. You use a plunge router fitted with a guide bushing to bore the dowel holes.

An adjustable workpiecc stop ensures that each workpiecc will be clamped in the same position, and template adjusters help you fine-tune the template so the holes are dead-center on the workpiecc. A toggle clamp makes workpiece changeover fast and easy, yet it holds the work very securely. The clamp is screwed to a pad that makes it easy to shift the clamp's position to accommodate different sizes of workpieces. An innovative feature of this jig, contributed by Fred Matlack of Rodale's Design Shop, is that adjustable work-piece stop I mentioned.

You move it from one end of the jig to the other, depending upon which end of a frame member is being worked. Once adjusted for a job.

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