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best-wood-for-vise-jaws-70 Product Recommendations Here are some supplies and tools we find essential in our everyday work jawd the shop. In his spare time, he enjoys hiking the Santa Monica mountains with his family and their dogs, and fostering rescue animals. It has a leg vise that I built with a simple metal screw. Thank you for sharing your knowledge with the world. In place of the commonly used threaded screw, this vise introduces a threaded spindle that moves the pivoting jaw in and out.

December 07, We removed the Irwin Tools because of quality control issues, and complaints of it being manufactured out of square. Its low price was attractive, but ultimately it lacked the accuracy needed for an effective woodworking vise. We added several new additions, including the Pony , a nice medium-duty option with a smooth handle and a sliding dog on the front face.

This Swedish company has been designing woodworking benches and equipment for nearly years, and their commitment to high-quality craftsmanship shows in their products. These kits include a range of chisels, gouges, and knives. July 09, A woodworking vise is an indispensable workbench fixture for woodworkers and carpenters. It allows you to hold wood firmly while you work on it.

Normal bench vises with thin metal jaws would severely mark up the surfaces which would then either ruin the piece or require a lot of work to fix. The Rockler Quick-Release is the most convenient and versatile vise I have used.

Maple works well for the jaws and there is plenty of room between the top of the jaw and the screw and guides to hold thick stock. The quick-release works perfectly for releasing workpieces or just quickly adjusting to larger pieces instead of having to turn the handle until it reaches the desired width.

The guides are ground well and if lubricated periodically, won't make a sound. The Wilton and the Eclipse Quick Release also work well but with some drawbacks given certain preferences. The handle size for both of these is quite small but again, that is a personal preference.

I happen to like a large handle as I feel it gives me greater control over the jaw adjustments. The Sjobergs SJO is quite nice but it's only adequate for holding small pieces. Wood vises exert large pressures on workpieces. Make sure that the stock is properly seated against the jaws to avoid personal injury or damage to materials.

The 9-inch Shop Fox D appx. Its pre-drilled jaws allow you to easily install custom non-marring cheeks. An adjustable front stop allows it to function as a standard or tail vise, and as a safety measure, the tommy bar is designed to fail before the unit itself breaks. Metalworking vises usually mount to the top of a bench. Generally, once you decide on a particular style of vise, the more you spend, the better the quality and effectiveness of that vise.

As the name implies, these mount to the front long edge of the bench, typically on a left-hand corner. Left-handed folks usually prefer a front vise mounted on the right corner.

These come in two styles: one with steel or cast-iron jaws you can use as is or add auxiliary wooden jaws [ Photos A and C ], and the other with no jaws, requiring you to build wooden jaws [ Photos B, D, and E ]. The first typically costs more, but installs easier. Your benchtop must clear the bench base or legs for mounting. Bolt or screw this type of face vise onto an existing benchtop in less than an hour.

You might have to shim it to flush the jaws with the benchtop and notch the benchtop to align the inner jaw with the edge. A pivoting-jaw vise holds irregular-shape stock without racking the jaws. You also can remove the pivoting jaw for parallel-jaw clamping.

Magnet-lined wood jaw pads stay in place without screws. A cast-iron-jaw vise can be recessed into the bottom of a bench for maximum strength and stability. A thick outer jaw distributes clamping force over a wide surface area.

Add shop-made accessories to your workbench. The benchtop or apron serves as the fixed jaw, while the movable jaw travels on a single screw [ Photo F ].

Because the outer jaw has a tongue that slides in a groove on the fixed arm, it has enough play to let you clamp uneven-shaped workpieces. A shoulder vise gives you floor-to-ceiling clamping space between its jaws. A threaded bushing mortised into the vise shoulder unseen keeps the screw on track. I am still thinking face versus leg.

Face with stow-able leg might be easier to store than leg with leg vise. Now that warm weather is here and the wife wants me to haul a dump truck load of dirt around to the garden beds, I can think on it some more in the meantime!

Just in time for Lie Nielson open house at the factory, 40 miles down the road. Good article and insights. Though it has done nothing to dissuade me from considering a Benchcrafted leg vise. Those seem to appeal to both my head and my heart. Let us know what you opt for.

RIchard, How would you install the metal face vise to your bench? Would you inset the face or just bolt it to the front with minimal cutout for the runners and bolted to the bench top? Or some other way? Do that video. In all the spare time you have. Looking forward to your article on the same Richard. When you say teh tolerances on a leg vice have to be tighter to make it work properly, which elements are you specifically talking about?

The Parallel Guide? I built a bench last year and, after seeing a video that the Unplugged Woodworker posted on making his Nicholson type face vice I knew what I wanted, Unfortunately, the Lake Erie wooden vice kit had become so popular that getting one was going to be a problem…. Len is an engineer who developed a quick release vice mechanism that uses an internal cam to lock the vice solidly in a quarter turn, but allows the vice shaft which is smooth to freely move in and out of its collar with just a quarter turn back.

When I asked him if his VX20 vice kit would work in a single screw Nicholson vice type design, he worked with me and custom modified one of his vice kits to work horizontally, rather than the usual vertical orientation. Can you apply gradual pressure with them or are they on or off? The Hovater vices look excellent — one of the intriguing parts is how they couple the two mechanisms together on their twin screw vices so you can tighten the it with either handle.

I suppose this means you never need to change the your position of your hands when Best Bench Vise For Woodworking 12 you are tightening it up?. Great text! I share the same interest of Rico who commented previously by the Scandinavian vices. Of course, there is the cross-grain question on the shoulder that needs attention. I actually think we sold them at a loss. Anyway, I really liked that vice you put on the English workbench. This one in your vice of the photo above looks strong and, why not say, beautiful. Hi, lovely article about vices Best Wood For Vise Face Off that is.

Since a couple of month I am experimenting with the 62mm wooden screw,turned and threaded in my own shop. Yesterday I got me some more beech, which seems quite adequat for the screw itself, and I also use it for the yaw. This time the experiment will be a leg vice. Strength of the wooden thread seems to be less of a problem than anticipated beforhand. Even locally harvested mapel did make a strong screw. Hi Norbert, It really is incredible just how strong a wooden thread can be, particularly when you think of its grain orientation.

In my testing I failed to break one, with the normal handle anyway. I also deliberately chipped half the thread off one to see the effect, and it still worked great.

You wrote, that you would mortice the back metal jaw in the apron. Should I go deeper with the metall jaw to put a wood jaw in front of the back jaw to come flush with the apron? So I would have a wooden hardwood back jaw morticed in my pine Best Wood For Vise Jaws List apron? Is it overkill to to that? If not, which thickness for the hardwood jaws should I take? I would use the softwood apron as the jaw, which would last you a very long time, and should it ever chip up you could always recess a new rear jaw in.

Thank you very much. I did build your English bench, and as I was just starting out used a Veritas tail vice screw er, because it was more than a foot long, and cost twenty quid. It is bloody brilliant. The posts about how to use it were also worth their weight …. And you know what the best thing about it is? I actually made it! Thanks to you both for showing me how. Thanks Russ, that really is lovely to hear. Thanks but I think it is mainly down to the design — straight forward but brutally effective.

Although where the bloody shelf for it has gone in the meantime is beyond me — I think it may have accidentally ended up as kindling. I came to the conclusion that I will have to build a new bench one of these days.

The one I have was built by a machinist turned wood worker and there are too many points where he carried machinist habits along. The original bench has some brilliant design features. There was a wood screwed face vice and twin wood screwed wagnon vices tail vices with very thoughtfully laidout throw for the wagons.

The dogs on the wagons are round stemmed and will rotate to catch a panel of any shape. The screws are the same diameter as a metal vice ca.

One day I cranked it down and the shaft just snapped. I know exactly what you mean, an over engineered bench can be a bit much. Are these parallel to the vise runners or perpendicular? A pic might help if possible. Hi Patrick, either way should work. The more the vice opens the more the weight at the front will pull it down, and that has an effect on how well it runs.

Also Best Wood For Moxon Vise Formula when you clamp with it wide open, say you had a drawer in it, it compounds all of the racking problems. This is certainly not an essential, but is something that I always did on benches that I sold. And I hate it.

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