%!$ Easy Diy Woodworking Bench Plans For You #!@

bed-sheet-fasteners-suspenders-03 By the late s, the industry was beginning to shift towards the modern factory, mainly in the US and areas of England. Usg and JM seem to make rigid foam boards for insulation and backer board, Wedi uses Dow for their foam? Heading Filing cabinets, card-index cabinets, paper trays,paper rests, pen trays, office-stamp stands andsimilar office or desk equipment, of base metal,other than office furniture of heading No. My other bed sheet fasteners suspenders 03 says it will probably be fine — i dont know what to think except its too late…. Main question is fastners to make the floor level enough for tile and create warmth and a vapor barrier. Is that an acceptable subfloor?

Chapter 21; Miscellaneous edible preparations. Heading Extracts, essences and concentrates,of coffee, tea or mate and preparations with a basis of these products or with a basis of coffee, tea or mate; roasted chicory and other roasted coffee substitutes, and extracts, essences and concentrates thereof.

Heading Sauces and preparations therefor; mixed condiments and mixes seasonings; mustard flour and meal and prepared mustard.

Heading Soups and broths and preparations therefor; homogenized composite food preparations;. Heading Ice cream and other edible ice, whether or not containing cocoa.

Heading Food preparations not elsewhere specified or included. Chapter 22; Beverages, spirits and vinegar. Heading Waters, including natural or artificial mineral waters and aerated waters,not containing added sugar or other sweetening matter or flavoured; ice and snow. Heading Waters, including mineral waters and aerated waters, containing added sugar or other sweetening matter or flavoured, and other non-alcoholic beverages, not including fruit or vegetable juices of heading No.

Heading Beer made from malt. Heading Wine of fresh grapes, including fortified wines; grape must other than that of heading No. Heading Vermouth and other wine of fresh grapes flavoured with plants or aromatic substances. Heading Vinegar and substitutes for vinegar obtained from acetic acid. Chapter 23; Residues and waste from the food industries; prepared animal fodder. Heading Flours, meals and pellets, of meat or meat offal, of fish or of crustaceans,molluscs or other aquatic invertebrates, unfit, for human consumption;greaves.

Heading Bran, sharps and other residues, whether or not in the form of pellets, derived from the sifting, milling or other working of cereals or of leguminous plants. Heading Residues of starch manufacture and similar residues, beet-pulp, bagasses and other waste of sugar manufacture, brewing or distilling dregs and waste, whether or not in the form of pellets.

Heading Oil-cake and other solid residues, whether or not ground or in the form of pellets, resulting from the extraction of soyabean oil. Heading Oil-cake and other solid residues, whether or not ground or in the form of pellets, resulting from the extraction of ground nutoil.

Heading Oil-cake and other solid residues, whether or not ground or in the form of pellets, resulting from the extraction of vegetable fats or oils, other than those of heading No.

Heading Wine lees; argol. Heading Vegetable materials and vegetable waste, vegetable residues and by-products, whether or not in the form of pellets, of a kind used in animal feeding, not elsewhere specified or included.

Heading Preparations of a kind used in animal feeding. Chapter 24; Tobacco and manufactured tobacco substitutes. Heading Unmanufactured tobacco; tobacco refuse. Heading Cigars, cheroots, cigarillos and cigarettes, of tobacco or of tobacco substitutes. Heading Other manufactured tobacco and manufactured tobacco substitutes; "homogenized'' or "reconstituted" tobacco; tobacco extracts and essences. Chapter 25; Salt; sulphur; earth and stone; plastering materials, lime and cement.

Heading Unroasted iron pyrites. Heading Sulphur of all kinds, other than sublimed sulphur, precipitated sulphur and colloidal sulphur. Heading Natural graphite. Heading Natural sands of all kinds, whether or not coloured, other than metal-bearing sands of Chapter Heading Kaolin and other kaolinic clays, whether or not calcined. Heading Heading Natural calcium phosphates, natural aluminium calcium phosphates and phosphatic chalk.

Heading Marble, travertine, ecaussine and other calcareous monumental or building stone of an apparent specific gravity of 2. Heading Pebbles, gravel, broken or crushed stone, of a kind commonly used for concrete aggregates, for road metalling or for railway or other ballast, shingle and flint, whether or not heat treated; macadan of slag, dross or similar industrial waste, whether.

Heading Limestone flux; limestone and other calcareous stone, of a kind used for the manufacture of lime or cement. Heading Quicklime, slaked lime and hydraulic lime, other than calcium oxide and hydroxide of heading No.

Heading Portland cement, aluminous cement, slag cement, supersulphate cement and similar hydraulic cements, whether or not coloured or in the form of clinkers.

Heading Asbestos. Heading Mica, including splittings; mica waste;. Heading Felspar; leucite; nepheline and nepheline syenite; fluorspar. Heading Mineral substances not elsewhere specified or included. Chapter 26; Ores, slag and ash. Heading Iron ores and concentrates, including roasted iron pyrites. Heading Copper ores and concentrates. Heading Nickel ores and concentrates. Heading Cobalt ores and concentrates. Heading Aluminium ores and concentrates. Heading Lead ores and concentrates.

Heading Zinc ores and concentrates. Heading Tin ores and concentrates. Heading Chromium ores and concentrates. Heading Tungsten ores and concentrates. Heading Uranium or thorium ores and concentrates.

Heading Molybdenum ores and concentrates. Heading Titanium ores and concentrates. Heading Niobium, tantalum, vanadium or zirconium ores and concentrates. Heading Precious metal ores and concentrates. Heading Other ores and concentrates.

Heading Slag, ash and residues other than from the manufacture of iron or steel containing metals, arsenic or their compounds;. Heading Other slag and ash, including seaweed ash kelp ; ash and residues from the incineration of municipal waste. Chapter 27; Mineral fuels, mineral oils and products of their distillation; bituminous substances mineral waxes.

Heading Coal; briquettes, ovoids and similar solid fuels manufactured from coal. Heading Lignite, whether or not agglomerated, excluding jet. Heading Coke and semi-coke of coal, of lignite or of peat, whether or not agglomerated; retort carbon. Heading Coal gas, water gas, producer gas and similar gases, other than petroleum gases and other gaseous hydrocarbons.

Heading Tar distilled from coal, from lignite or from peat, and other mineral tars, whether or not dehydrated or partially distilled, including reconstituted tars. Heading Oils and other products of the distillation of high temperature coal tar; similar products in which the weight of the aromatic constituents exceeds that of the non-aromatic constituents.

Heading Pitch and pitch coke, obtained from coal tar or from other mineral tars;. Heading Petroleum oils and oils obtained from bituminous minerals, crude. Heading Petroleum gases and other gaseous hydrocarbons. Heading Petroleum jelly; paraffin wax, microcrystalline petroleum wax, slack wax, ozokerite, lignite wax, peat wax, other mineral waxes, and similar products obtained by synthesis or by other processes, whether or not coloured.

Heading Petroleum coke, petroleum bitumen and other residues of petroleum oils or of oils obtained from bituminous minerals. Heading Bitumen and asphalt, natural; bituminous or oil shale and tar sands; asphaltites and asphaltic rocks. Heading Electrical energy. Chapter 28; Inorganic chemicals; organic or inorganic compounds of precious metals, of rare-earth metals of radioactive elements or of isotopes. Heading Sulphur, sublimed or precipitated;colloidal sulphurs.

Heading Hydrogen, rare gases and other non-metals. Heading Alkali or alkaline-earth metals; rare-earth metals, scandium and yttrium, whether or not intermixed or interalloyed; mercury. Heading Sulphuric acid; oleum. Heading Nitric acid; sulphonitric acids. Heading Diphosphorus pentaoxide; phosphoric acid; polyphosphoric acids, whether or not chemically defined.

Heading Oxides of boron; boric acids. Heading Other inorganic acids and other inorganic oxygen compounds of non-metals. Heading Halides and halide oxides of non-metals. Heading Sulphides of non-metals; commercial phosphorus trisuiphides. Heading Ammonia, anhydrous or in aqueous solution. Heading Sodium hydroxide caustic soda ; potassium hydroxide caustic potash ;peroxides or sodium or postassium. Heading Hydroxide and peroxide of magnesium; oxides, hydroxides and peroxides, of strontium or barium.

Heading Zinc oxide; Zinc peroxide. Heading Artificial corundum, whether or not chemically defined; aluminium oxide; aluminium hydroxide. Heading Chromium oxides and hydroxides. Heading Manganese oxide. Heading Cobalt oxides and hydroxides; commercial cobalt oxides.

Heading Titanium oxides. Heading Lead oxides; red lead and orange lead. Heading Hydrazine and hydroxylamine and their inorganic salts; other inorganic bases; othermetal oxides, hydroxides and peroxides;. Heading Chlorides, chloride oxides and chloride hydroxides; bromides and bromide oxides; iodides and iodide oxides.

Heading Hypochlorites ; commercial calcium hypochlorite ; chlorites ; hypobromites. Heading Chlorates and perchlorates; bromates and perbromates; iodates and periodates. Heading Sulphides; polysulphides, whether or not chemically defined. Heading Dithionites and sulphoxylates. Heading Sulphites; thiosulphates. Heading Sulphates;alums;peroxosulphates persul-phates. Heading Nitrites ; nitrates. Heading Phosphinates hypophosphites ,phosphonates phosphites phosphates and polyphosphates, whether or not chemically defined;.

Heading Carbonates;peroxocarbonates percarbonates ;commercial ammonium carbonate containing ammonium carbamate;. Heading Cyanides, cyanide oxides and complex cyanides.

Heading Silicates ; commercial alkali metal silicates. Heading Salts of oxometanic or peroxometallicacids. Heading Colloidal precious metals; inorganic or organic compounds of precious metals, whether or not chemically defined; amalgams of precious metals;. Heading Isotopes other than those of heading No. Heading Compounds, inorganic or organic, of rare-earth metals, of yttrium or of scandium or of mixtures of these metals;.

Heading Hydrogen peroxide, whether or not solidified with urea;. Heading Phosphides, whether or not chemically defined, excluding ferrophosphorus. Heading Carbides, whether or not chemically defined. Heading Hydrides, nitrides, azides, silicides and borides, whether or not chemically defined, other than compounds which are also carbides of heading No.

Heading Compounds, inorganic or organic, of mercury, whether or not chemically defined, excluding amalagams. Chapter 29; Organic chemicals. Heading Acyclic hydrocarbons. Heading Cyclic hydrocarbons.

Heading Halogenated derivatives of hydrocarbons. Heading Sulphonated, nitrated or nitrosated derivatives of hydrocarbons, whether or not halogenated. Heading Acyclic alcohols and their halogenated, sulphonated, nitrated or nitrosated derivatives. Heading Cyclic alcohols and their halogenated, snlphonated, nitrated or nitrosated derivatives;. Heading Phenols; phenol-alcohols;. Heading Halogenated, sulphonated, nitrated or nitrosated derivatives of phenols or phenolalcohols.

Heading Ethers, ether-alcohols, ether-phenols, ether- alcohol-phenols, alcohol peroxides, ether peroxides, ketone peroxides whether or not chemically defined , and their halogenated, sulphonated, nitrated or nitrosated derivatives;. Heading Epoxides, epoxyalcohols, epoxyphenols and epoxyethers, with a three-membered ring, and their halogenated, sulphonated, nitrated or nitrosated derivatives;. Heading Acetals and hemiacetals, whether or not with other oxygen function, and their halogenated, sulphonated, nitrated or nitrosated derivatives;.

Heading Aldehydes, whether or not with other oxygen function; cyclic polymers of aldehydes; paraformaldehyde;. Heading Halogenated, sulphonated, nitrated or nitrosated derivatives of products of heading No.

Heading Ketones and quinones, whether or not with other oxygen function, and their halogenated, sulphonated, nitrated or nitrosated derivatives;. Heading Saturated acyclic monocarboxylic acids and their anhydrides, halides, peroxides and peroxyacids; their halogenated, sulphonated, nitrated or nitrosated derivatives;.

Heading Unsaturated acyclie monocarboxylic acids, cyclic monocarboxylie acids, their anhydrides, halides, peroxides and peroxyacids; their halogenated, sulphonated, nitrated or nitrosated derivatives;. Heading Polycarboxylic acids, their anhydrides, halides, peroxides and peroxyacids;their halogennated, sulphonated, nitrated or nitrosated derivatives.

Heading Carboxylic acids with additional oxygen function and their anhydrides, halides, peroxides and peroxyacids;their halogenated,sulphonated, nitrated or nitrosated derivatives;.

Heading Phosphoric esters and their salts, including lactophosphates; their halogenated, sulphonated, nitrated or nitrosated derivatives. Heading Amine-function compounds. Heading Oxygen-function amino-compounds;. Heading Quaternary ammonium salts and hydroxides; leeithins and other phosphoaminolipids, whether or not chemically defined;.

Heading Carboxyamide-function compounds; amidefunction compounds of carbonic acid;. Heading Nitrile-function compounds;. Heading Diazo-, azo-. Heading Organic derivatives of hydrazine or of hydrox- ylamine;. Heading Compounds with other nitrogen function;.

Heading Organo-sulphur compounds. Heading Other organo-inorganic compounds. Heading Nucleic acids and their salts; whether or not chemically defined; Other heteroeyclic compounds;. Heading Sulphonamides;. Heading Hormones, prostaglandins, thromboaxnes and leukotrienes, natural or reproduced by synthesis ; derivatives and structural analogues thereof, including chain modified polypeptides, used primarily as hormones;.

Heading Glycosides, natural or reproduced by synthesis, and their salts, ethers, esters and other derivatives;. Heading Vegetable alkaloids, natural or reproduced by synthesis, and their salts, ethers, esters and other derivatives;. Heading Sugars, chemically pure, other than sucrose, lactose, maltose, glucose and fructose; sugar ethers, sugar acetals and sugar esters, and Bed Sheet Fasteners Suspenders Values their salts, other than products of heading No. Heading Antibiotics;.

Heading Other organic compounds;. Chapter 30; Pharmaceutical products. Heading Glands and other organs for organotherapeutic uses, dried, whether or not powdered; extracts of glands or other organs or of their secretions for organotherapeutic uses; heparin and its salts; other human or animal substances prepared for therapeutic.

Heading Human blood; animal blood prepared for therapeutic, prophylactic or diagnostic uses; antisera, other blood fractions and immunological products, whether or not modified or obtained by means of biotechnological processes; vaccines, toxins, cultures o. Heading Pharmaceutical goods specified in Note 4 to this Chapter;. Chapter 31; Fertilisers. Heading Animal or vegetable fertilizers, whether or not mixed together or chemically treated; fertilizers produced by the mixing or chemical treatment of animal or vegetable products;.

Heading Mineral or chemical fertilizers, nitrogenous;. Heading Mineral or chemical fertilizers, phosphatic;. Heading Mineral or chemical fertilizers, potassic;.

Heading Mineral or chemical fertilizers containing two or three of the fertilizing elements nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium; other fertilizers; goods of this Chapter in tablets or similar forms or in packages of a gross weight not exceeding 10kg;.

Chapter 32; Tanning or dyeing extracts; tannins and their derivatives; dyes, pigments and other colouring matter; paints and varnishes; putty and other mastics; inks.

Heading Tanning extracts of vegetable origin; tannins and their salts, ethers, esters and other derivatives;. Heading Synthetic organic tanning substances; inorganic tanning substances; tanning preparations, whether or not containing natural tanning substances; enzymatic preparations for pre-tanning;. Heading Synthetic organic colouring matter, whether or not chemically defined;preparations as specified in Note 3 to this Chapter based on synthetic organic colouring matter; synthetic organic products of a kind used as fluorescent brightening agents or as l.

Heading Colour lakes; preparations as specified in Note 3 to this Chapter based on colour lakes;. Heading Other colouring matter; preparations as specified in Note 3 to this Chapter, other than those of heading No. Heading Prepared driers;. Heading Artists', students' or signboard painters' colours, modifying tints, amusement colours and the like, in tablets, tubes, jars, bottles, pans or in similar forms or packings;.

Heading Glaziers' putty, grafting putty, resin cements, caulking compounds and other mastics; painters' fillings; non-refractory surfacing preparations for facades, indoor walls, floors, ceilings or the like;. Heading Printing ink, writing or drawing ink and other inks, whether or not concentrated or solid;. Chapter 33; Essential oils and resinoids; perfumery, cosmetic or toilet preparations. Heading Perfumes and toilet waters;. Heading Beauty or make-up preparations and preparations for the care of the skin, other than medicaments , including sunscreen or sun tan preparations; manicure or pedicure preparations;.

Heading Preparations for use on the hair;. Heading Pre-shave,shaving or after-shave preparations, personal deodorants, bath preparations, depila- tories and other perfumery, cosmetic or toilet preparations, not elsewhere specified or included; prepared room deodorizers,whether or not perfumed or havi. Heading Soap; organic surface-active products and preparations for use as soap, in the form of bars,cakes,moulded pieces or shapes, whether or not containing soap; organic surface-active and preparations for washing the skin, in the form of liquid or cream a.

Heading Lubricating preparations including cutting-oil preparations, bolt or nutrelease preparations, anti- rust or anticorosion preparations and mould release preparations, based on lubricants and preparations of a kind used for the oil or grease treatment. Heading Artificial waxes and prepared waxes;. Heading Candles, tapers and the like;. Heading Modelling pastes, including those put up for children's amusement; preparations known as "dental wax" or as "dental impression compounds", put up in sets, in packings for retail sale or in plates, horseshoe shapes, sticks or similar forms; other prep.

Chapter 35; Albuminoidal substances; modified starches; glues; enzymes. Heading Casein, caseinates and other casein derivatives; casein glues;. Heading Peptones and their derivatives; other protein substances and their derivatives, not elsewhere specified or included; hide powder, whether or not chromed;.

Heading Prepared glues and other prepared adhesives, not elsewhere specified or included; products suitable for use as glues or adhesives, put up for retail sale as glues or adhesives, not exceeding a net weight of 1 kg;. Heading Enzymes; prepared enzymes not elsewhere specified or included;. Chapter 36; Explosives; pyrotechnic products; matches; pyrophoric alloys; certain combustible preparations. Heading Propellent powders;. Heading Prepared explosives, other than propellent powders;. Heading Safety fuses; detonating fuses; percussion or detonating caps; igniters; electric detonators;.

Heading Fireworks, signalling flares, rain rockets, fog signals and other pyrotechnic articles;. Heading Matches, other than pyrotechnic articles of heading No.

Heading Ferro-cerium and other pyrophoric alloys in all forms; articles of combustible materials as specified in Note 2 to this Chapter;. Chapter 37; Photographic or cinematographic goods.

Heading Photographic plates and film in the flat, sensitized, unexposed, of any material other than paper, paperboard or textiles; instant print film in the flat, sensitized, unexposed, whether or not in packs;. Heading Photographic film in rolls, sensitized, unexposed, of any material other than paper, paperboard or textiles; instant print film in rolls, sensitized, unexposed;.

Heading Photographic paper, paperboard and textiles, sensitized, unexposed;. Heading Photographic plates, film, paper, paperboard and textiles, exposed but not developed;. Heading Photographic plates and film, exposed and developed, other than cinematographic film;. Heading Cinematographic film, exposed and developed, whether or not incorporating sound track or consisting only of sound track;.

Heading Chemical preparations for photographic use other than varnishes, glues, adhesives and similar preparations ; unmixed products for photographic uses, put up in measured portions or put up for retail sale in a form ready for use;. Heading Artificial graphite; colloidal or semicolloidal graphite; preparations based on graphite or other carbon in the form of pastes, blocks, plates or other semi-manufactures;.

Heading Activated carbon; activated natural mineral products; animal black, including spent animal black;. Heading Tall oil, whether or not refined;. Heading Residual lyes from the manufacture of wood pulp, whether or not concentrated, desugared or chemically treated,including lignin sulphonates, but excluding tall oil of heading No. Heading Gum, wood or sulphate turpentine and other terpenic oils produced by the distillation or other treatment of coniferous woods; crude dipentene; sulphite turpentine and other crude paracymene; pine oil containing alpha terpineol as the main constituent.

Heading Rosin and resin acids, and derivatives thereof; rosin spirit and rosin oils; rungums;. Heading Wood tar; wood tar oils; wood creosote; wood naphtha; vegetable pitch; brewers'pitch and similar preparations based on rosin, resin acids or on vegetable pitch;.

Heading Insecticides, rodenticides, fungicides, herbicides, anti-sprouting products and plantgrowth regulators, disinfectants and similar products, put up in forms or packings for retail sale or as preparations or articles for example, sulphurtreated bands,. Heading Pickling preparations for metal surfaces;fluxes and other auxiliary preparations for soldering, brazing or welding; soldering, brazing or welding powders and pastes consisting of metal and other materials; preparations of a kind used as cores or coat.

Heading Prepared rubber accelerators; compounds plastic- izers for rubber or plastics, not elsewhere specified or included; anti-oxidizing preparations and other compound stabilizers for rubber or plastics;.

Heading Preparations and charges for fire-extinguishers; charged fire-extinguishing grenades;. Heading Organic composite solvents and thinners, not elsewhere specified or included; prepared paint or varnish removers;. Heading Reaction initiators, reaction accelerators and catalytic preparations, not elsewhere specified or included;.

Heading Refractory cements, mortars, concretes and similar compositions, other than products of heading No. Heading Mixed alkylbenzentes and mixed alkylnaphthalenes, other than those of heading No. Heading Chemical elements doped for use in electronics, in the form of discs, wafers or similar forms; chemical compounds doped for use in electronics;. Heading Anti-freezing preparations and prepared deicing fluids;. Heading Diagnostic or laboratory reagents on a backing and prepared diagnostic or laboratory reagents whether or not on a backing, other than those of heading No.

Heading Industrial monocarboxylic fatty acids; acid oils from refining; industrial fatty alcohols;. Heading Residual products of the chemical or allied industries, not elsewhere specified or included; municipal waste; sewage sludge; other wastes specified in Note 6 to this Chapter;. Chapter 39; Chapter 39 Plastics and articles thereof. Heading Polymers of propylene or of other olefins, in primary forms;.

Heading Polymers of styrene, in primary forms;. Heading Polymers of vinyl chloride or of other halogenated olefins, in primary forms;. Heading Polymers of vinyl acetate or of other vinyl esters, in primary forms; other vinyl polymers in primary forms;. Heading Acrylic polymers in primary forms;. Heading Polyacetals, other polyethers and epoxide resins, in primary forms; polycarbonates, alkyd resins, polyallyl esters and other polyesters, in primary forms;.

Heading Polyamides in primary forms;. Heading Amino-resins, phenolic resins and polyurethanes, in primary forms;. Heading Silicones in primary forms;. Heading Petroleum resins, eonmarone-indene resins, polyterpenes, polysulphides, polysulphones and other products specified in Note 3 to this Chapter, not elsewhere specified or included, in primary forms;.

Heading Cellulose and its chemical derivatives, not elsewhere specified or included, in primary forms;. Heading Natural polymers for example, alginic acid and modified natural polymers for example, hardened proteins, chemical derivatives of natural rubber , not elsewhere specified or included, in primary forms;. Heading In-exchangers based on polymers of headings No. Heading Waste, parings and scrap, of plastics;. Heading Monofilament of which any cross-SECTI0Nal dimension exceeds 1 mm, rods, sticks and profile shapes, whether or not surfaceworked but not otherwise worked, of plastics;.

Heading Self-adhesive plates, sheets, film, foil, tape, strip and other flat shapes, of plastics, whether or not in rolls;. Heading Other plates, sheets, film, foil and strip, of plastics, non-cellular and not reinforced, laminated, supported or similarly combined with other materials;. Heading Other plates, sheets, film, foil and strip, of plastics;. Heading Baths, shower-baths, sinks, washbasins, bidets, lavatory pans, seats and covers, flushing cisterns and similar sanitary ware, of plastics;.

Heading Articles for the conveyance or packing of goods, of plastics; stoppers, lids, caps and other closures, of plastics;. Heading Tableware, kitchenware, other household articles and hygienic or toilet articles, of plastics;. Heading Builders'ware of plastics, not elsewhere specified or included;. Heading Other articles of plastics and articles of other materials of headings No.

Chapter 40; Rubber and articles thereof. Heading Natural rubber, balata, gutta-percha, guayule, chicle and similar natural gums, in primary forms or in plates, sheets or strip;.

Heading Synthetic rubber and factice derived from oils, in primary forms or in plates, sheets or strip; mixtures of any products of heading No. Heading Reclaimed rubber in primary forms or in plates, sheets or strip;. Heading Compounded rubber, unvulcanized, in primary forms or in plates, sheets or strip;. Heading Vulcanized rubber thread and cord;. Heading Plates, sheets, strip, rods and profile shapes, of vulcanized rubber other than hard rubber;.

Heading Conveyor or transmission belts or belting, of vulcanized rubber;. Heading New pneumatic tyres, of rubber;. Heading Retreaded or used pneumatic tyres of rubber; solid or cushion tyres, tyre treads and tyre flaps, of rubber;.

Heading Inner tubes, of rubber;. Heading Other articles of vulcanized rubber other than hard rubber;. Heading Tanned or crust skins of sheep or lambs, without wool on, whether or not split, but not further prepared;. Heading Tanned or crust hides and skins of other animals, without wool or hair on, whether or not split, but not further prepared;. Heading Leather further prepared after tanning or crusting, including parchment-dressed leather, of sheep or lamb, without wool on, whether or not split, other than leather of heading No.

Heading Leather further prepared after tanning or crusting, including parchment-dressed leather, of other animals, without wool or hair on, whether or not split, other than leather of heading No. Heading Composition leather with a basis of leather or leather fibre, in slabs, sheets or strip, whether or not in rolls; parings and other waste of leather or of composition leather, not suitable for the manufacture of leather articles; leather dust, powder.

Chapter 42; Articles of leather; saddlery and harness; travel goods, handbags and similar containers; articles of animal gut other than silk-worm gut. Heading Trunks, suit-cases, vanity-cases, executivecases, brief-cases, school satchels, spectacle cases, birocular cases, camera cases, musical instrument cases, gun cases, holsters and similar containers; traveling-bags, insulated food or beverages bags, to.

Heading Articles of apparel and clothing accessories, of leather or of composition leather;. Heading Other articles of leather or of composition leather;.

Chapter 43; Furskins and artificial fur; manufactures thereof. Heading Articles of apparel, clothing accessories and other articles of furskin;. Heading Artificial fur and articles thereof;. Chapter 44; Wood and articles of wood; wood charcoal.

Heading Fuel wood, in logs, in billets, in twigs, in faggots or in similar forms; wood in chips or particles; sawdust and wood waste and scrap, whether or not agglomerated in logs, briquettes, pellets or similar forms;. Heading Wood in the rough, whether or not stripped of bark or sapwood, or roughly squared;. Heading Hoopwood; split poles; piles, pickets and stakes of wood, pointed but not sawn lengthwise; wooden sticks, roughly trimmed but not turned, bent or otherwise worked, suitable for the manufacture of walking-sticks, umbrellas, tool handles or the like; c.

Heading Wood wool; wood flour;. Heading Wood sawn or chipped lengthwise, sliced or peeled, whether or not planed, sanded or end-jionted, of a thickness exceeding 6mm;. Heading Particle board, oriented strand board OSB and similar board for example, waferboard of wood or other ligneous materials, whether or not agglomerated with resins or other organic binding substances;.

Heading Fibreboard of wood or other ligneous materials, whether or not bonded with resins or other organic substances;. Heading Plywood, veneered panels and similar laminated wood;. Heading Densified wood, in blocks, plates, strips or profile shapes;. Heading Wooden frames for paintings, photographs, mirrors or similar objects;. Heading Packing cases, boxes, crates, drums and similar packings, of wood; cabledrums of wood; pallets, box pallets and other load boards, of wood; pallet collars of wood;.

Heading Casks, barrels, vats, tubs and other coopers' products and parts thereof, of wood,including staves;.

Heading Tools, tool bodies, tool handles, broom or brush bodies and handles, of wood; boot or shoe lasts and trees, of wood;. Heading Builders' joinery and carpentry of wood, including cellular wood panels, assembled flooring panels, shingles and shakes;.

Heading Tableware and kitchenware, of wood;. Heading Wood marquetry and inlaid wood; caskets and cases for jewellery or cutlery, and similar articles, of wood; statuettes and other ornaments, of wood; wooden articles or furniture not falling in Chapter 94;. Heading Other articles of wood;. Chapter 45; Cork and articles of cork. Heading Natural cork, raw or simply prepared; waste cork; crushed, granulated or ground cork;. Heading Articles of natural cork;. Chapter 46; Manufactures of straw, of esparto or of other plaiting materials; basketware and wickerwork.

Heading Plaits and similar products of plaiting materials, whether or not assembled into strips; plaiting materials, plaits and similar products of plaiting materials, bound together in parallel strands or woven, in sheet form, whether or not being finished. Heading Basketwork, wickerwork and other articles, made directly to shape from plaiting materials or made up from goods of heading No. Chapter 47; Pulp of wood or of other fibrous cellulosic material; recovered waste and scrap paper of paperboard.

Heading Mechanical wood pulp;. Heading Chemical wood pulp, dissolving grades;. Heading Chemical wood pulp, soda or sulphate, other than dissolving grades;.

Heading Chemical wood pulp, sulphite, other than dissolving grades;. Heading Wood pulp obtained by a combination of mechanical and chemical pulping processes;. Chapter 48; Paper and paperboard; articles of paper pulp, of paper or of paperboard. Heading Newsprint, in rolls or sheets;. Heading Toilet or facial tissue stock, towel or napkin stock and similar paper of a kind used for household or sanitary purposes, cellulose wadding and webs of cellulose fibres, whether or not creped, crinkled, embossed, perforated,surface-coloured, surface-.

Heading Uncoated kraft paper and poperboard,in rolls or sheets, other than that of heading No. Heading Other uncoated paper and paperboard, in rolls or sheets, not further worked or processed than as specified in Note 3 to this Chapter;. Heading Vegetable parchment, greaseproof papers, tracing papers and glassine and other glazed transparent or translucent papers, in rolls or sheets;. Heading Filter blocks, slabs and plates, of paper pulp;.

Heading Cigarette paper, whether or not cut to size or in the form of booklets or tubes;. Heading Wallpaper and similar wall coverings; window transparencies of paper;. Heading Envelopes, letter cards, plain postcards and correspondence cards, of paper Bed Sheet Fasteners Suspenders 60 or paperboard; boxes, pouches, wallets and writing compendiums, of paper or paperboard, containing an assortment of paper stationery;. Heading Toilet paper and similar paper, cellulose wadding or webs of cellulose fibres, of a kind used for household or sanitary purposes, in rolls of a width not exceeding 36cm, or cut to size or shape; handkerchiefs, cleansing tissues, towels, tablecloths,.

Heading Cartons, boxes, cases, bags and other packing containers, of paper, paperboard, cellulose wadding or webs of cellulose fibres; box files, letter trays and similar articles, of paper or paperboard of a kind used in offices, shops or the like;. Heading Registers, account books, note books, order books, receipt books, letter pads, memorandum pads, diaries and similar articles, exercise books, blotting-pads, binders loose-leaf or other , folders, file covers, manifold business forms, interleaved car.

Heading Paper or paperboard labels of all kinds, whether or not printed;. Heading Other paper, paperboard, cellulose wadding and webs of cellulose fibres, cut to size or shape; other articles of paper pulp, paper, paperboard, cellulose wadding or webs of cellulose fibres;. Chapter 49; Printed books, newspapers, pictures and other products of the printing industry; manuscripts, typescripts and plans.

Heading Printed books, brochures, leaflets and similar printed matter, whether or not in single sheets;. Heading Newspapers, journals and periodicals, whether or not illustrated or containing advertising material;. Heading Children's picture, drawing or colouring books. Heading Music, printed or in manuscript, whether or not bound or illustrated;. Heading Maps and hydrographic or similar charts of all kinds, including atlases, wall maps, topographical plans and globes, printed.

Heading Plans and drawings for architectural, engineering, industrial, commercial,topographical or similar purposes, being originals drawn by hand; hand- written text; photographic reproductions on sensitized paper and carbon copies of the foregoing;. Heading Unused postage, revenue or similar stamps of current or new issue in the country in which they have, or will have, a recognised face value; stamp-impressed paper; banknotes; cheque forms; stock, share or bond certificates and similar documents of tit.

Heading Printed or illustrated postcards; printed cards bearing personal greetings, messages or announcements, whether or not illustrated, with or without envelopes or trimmings;.

Heading Calendars of any kind, printed, including calendar blocks;. Heading Other printed matter, including printed pictures and photographs;. Will the walls stay stuck? I live in an area that has frequent small to medium earthquakes. Olklahoma Tile in my bathroom is starting to crack and I want to completely retile my shower. What would you reccommend to prevent my new tile job from cracking??? I think the most important thing would be to put movement joints in the new tile shower.

All the corners and changes-of-plane will have to have a gap and the gap would be caulked and not grouted. This will allow things to move. I have a recent post on this very subject that you may want to look at. Otherwise Bed Sheet Fasteners Suspenders Effect you could use a membrane over the backer board walls similar to how you would go over a concrete floor that has cracks in it. The membrane would have to be a crack isolation membrane A Nobleseal TS is one example.

Redgard would be another. Thank you for all of your help with my bathroom remodel. In my bathroom, there was a five foot tile tub surround and then about 22 inches of drywall above it to the ceiling. If I am using Wedi board and make a flush transition to the drywall using sealing tape, could I continue tiling to the ceiling on the drywall?

Thank you! Drywall at the top is fine. I guess it would depend on the height of your ceiling. Usually you want the Wedi board to be at least as high as the shower head.

My husband used Hardibacker mold block cement board, and a vapor barrier between the cement board and the studs. There is an area behind the shower wall that is not sheetrocked on the other side. I can see moisture and mold between the plastic and cement board.

No water is hitting wood. Is this normal? What should we do? So my hunch is that you have an issue with the shower somewhere. You situation shows that it is. Thank you so much for your reply. Thank you so much.

I would check the corners. But you may be fixing the symptom rather than curing the problem. Hi — this blog is fantastic!! Water vapor could actually pass through the surface barrier and be blocked by the barrier behind. What you can do is use a 40 mil shower pan liner in the shower pan. You would flash this up the walls about inches typically. Then use a liquid or Kerdi-type sheet membrane waterproofing on the surface.

This would be applied on the cement board and down to the pan but not on the shower pan itself. That way the two barriers would overlap. I use the appropriate coated screws for both floors and walls and alkaline mesh tape all seems and corners on both floors and walls. Sounds like you are doing everything to the letter which is great! Otherwise keep doing what you are doing. I am getting ready to imbark on my first bathroom remodel and I keep hearing contradictory statements on what to do for waterproofing my tub area before I tile and what I should put on the floor before I tile that.

Some say place a sheet of plastic barrier between the studs and concrete board and then seal the concrete board with a membrane. And others say to just use the plastic and nothing on the concrete board. While others are saying to just use the concrete board and nothing else. Any suggestions on what to put on starting with the studs? You want either a sheet of plastic behind the cement board or a waterproofing membrane on the surface. Not both. Thank you. How is the seam treated between wonderboard and the fiberglass reinforced shower pans.

As a second question, do you prefer using premade shower pans or laid up ones built on site. I know that one problem with premade is size limitations. In my house I wanted a four feet by six feet shower pan. Still looking. Thanks, Allen.

As far as the seam question I will have a post coming out on this in about a month. But the short answer is that I caulk it. First I waterproof the board and then I caulk the gap between the backer board and the tub flange. And for the second question I prefer doing mud shower pans. I know how to do them and the materials are inexpensive.

I think the foam pans are a good DIY option because the slope is built in and they are a little easier to waterproof. But, like you mentioned, things have to be set up just right for these. Or buy a custom made one. It came out very nice but was not inexpensive. I looking at buy a custom made solid shower pan with roll over threshold. I found a poured culture marble pan , or and acrylic pan. I am placing this new shower on existing floor and I will not need to remove only the hardwood floor under shower.

Most grouted mud pan tile floor have issues so I was also trying to accommodate ada access for later use, this is a great article on different products and application So what do you think about me using the solid shower Pans.

Redoing a shower tub wall and found out they used cement board for the bottom half of the wall, then some sort of really crumbly, brown board on the top half I think it was green board?

I cut the top where the tiles stopped a few feet from the ceiling and tore everything to the studs from there down. Plan on using cement board or foam board to build the walls back, and tile over that. But my concern is where either substrate will meet with the remaining wall boards. How do I best seal this area? Meshtape and thinset? The best way is to try to transition outside the wet area but still inside the area to be tiled.

You want to mesh tape and thinset the cement board to the drywall. Maybe inches before the tile stops so that the tile covers that seam. What I know is that a shower needs a waterproof barrier. I suppose you could slice the paper faced insulation and install a sheet membrane on the shower which would act as a vapor retarder also? To me that seems like over thinking it. Hi tile guy. I am in the midst of bathroom project from hell.

Tiny room. Simple, after the basement floor was busted up and pipes put in. So, I got tile and all the fixings yesterday for install today. But felt nagged by thinking surely that drywall would need to be sealed really well first if used in a shower.

Kerdi board? I like that that option sounds light weight and easier to use than the usual cement board. Or, should I go with wonder board or the like? Or, 2 can he fix Kerdi board on top of the greenboard and then tile over the Kerdi board and seal all the edges?

I am still trying to figure out how to seal that. Thank you so very much. Scratch that… just got my own answer, I think. There is greenboard on the ceiling too that I will treat with PVA and then paint. Wedi board is a good option. Another option available to you is to simply put Kerdi fabric not board over the greenboard. I think USG Durock fabric is ok over greenboard also.

We have builder installed pebble tile in the shower. The pebbles are black and so is the grout. We are starting to see white colored cracks in the grout. Does the shower just need to be regrouted? Should we use a light colored grout this time? Could there be water seepage through those cracks?

Thanks for your response. It sounds like efflorescene. You might be able to mask it temporarily with grout sealers but the only solution is to fix the cracks which means tearing out the pan and redoing it. What a great site! I have a couple questions about Schluter. Now I have to decide what the replacement will be. He allows that coating the Hardibacker with Red Gard might be a good idea.

One thing is clear to me: success with Schluter is a function of your expertise with thinset and a trowel. Poor thinset work? What do you think? And the Redgard is essentially a must. As far as the Schluter Kerdi Shower System goes, they have good videos and instructions for their system. Schluter has never claimed that thinset mortar is waterproof. What they claim is that their system is waterproof.

This claim has held up over the years and the fact that other companies have followed suit is further proof that it works.

However, in my experience, water wicking up the walls during a flood test has never been an issue. The water is usually splashing around a little bit at least and it shows on the sides of the walls. This is most noticeable on Wedi Board showers because they are dark gray and the coating is cementitious. What I am concerned about with a flood test is the water level.

Water sitting in the shower pan is a good way to keep other people out of there. Schluter has a FAQ section on their website that goes into the modified vs unmodified thinset reasoning.

Furthering my point is the fact that they just came out with their own line of modified thinset mortar called All-SET that can be used with their products. Thanks for the quick reply. Is there a reason NOT to use it? I do care about never, ever having to worry about the shower ever leaking been there, done that. It just seems so light and easy to work with. Is there a functional down side?

I say choose one or the other. If you are using Kerdi for the shower you can use Kerdi fix on all the seams as extra insurance. This would accomplish the same thing as using Redgard. Additionally, this practice would probably be ok with Schluter I would think. Great discussions…experimented with Hydro Ban and Kerdi,.. Seams were well sealed in both boxes, to wit, no leaks. As the HB bonded so well to the felt on Kerdi, there was no way to get water between layers on second box; tore them apart to find out after next experiment of punching holes in boxes…inserting pipes…Kerdi Fix to seal box one around pipe, Box 2 got HB around the pipe to Kerdi Board.

Again, allowing for proper drying time of both…filled boxes above pipes yes they were capped —no leaks. Awesome products when you follow manufacture layup and curing times…actually I allowed 24 more hours than HB requires for flood testing since I had read others had issues trying to do the flood test too soon.

All this was done because I wanted to know what was going on with bonding and waterproofing on the felt coated foam boards and have confidence I could get plane transitions sealed without having to worry about leaks or moisture sandwich. Also will add…tearing the boxes apart was not easy, Kerdi Fix is resilient. Pulling the HydroBan from the felt was a non-starter…could get it to separate…ultimately cut holes through Box 2, a lot of holes to look for moisture intrusion…nothing noted.

So, success in experiment, success in building a shower…no leaks… have access via panels on all sides, and no indication of moisture.

Also, looked with IR system that can be used on cell phones great little tools for leak indications…none. I know, warranty issue…not an issue for me, might be for others. Good feedback! This is something that comes through experimentation and experience. Pick up some drywall shims in the sheetrock section. You staple then to the studs to build out the Hardibacker. Use the drywall shims to make the wall flat. When you are done coat the Hardibacker with Redgard or similar waterproofing.

Great informative article. What thickness of the foam backer board do I need to use? It will go directly onto my timber studs… Ta. The best thing to do on this is to call tech support for the brand of foam board that you are using. I think it will depend on the timbers.

Most importantly is to find out how they want it fastened. A call is the best way to find out. I am replacing a tub and adding a shower.

I have removed all but the top foot of green board in the alcove. I plan to install 4mil vapor barrier then hardibaker.

Do I have to sand the paint off the green board that remains or should the hardibacker go to the ceiling? The mortar will stick to painted drywall just fine. We are planning to remodel our bathroom and remove the tub and have a tiled shower installed. The contractor uses John Mansfield GoBoard and sealant. Should we be concerned that this product has not be around very long? We are searching the internet for feedback but really have found very little about this particular product.

Is it as good as the Schluter system, etc.? What are your thoughts please? Also, any concern with keeping the shower drain in the approximate same position as it was with the tub? Is it just a matter of ascetics? I would rather not be standing on the drain. The big advantage of Johns Manville GoBoard versus competing products like Kerdi Board or Wedi Board is that it costs quite a bit less while still providing the same, or similar benefits.

This is where a system like Schluter or Wedi is an advantage as they make and guarantee an entire shower. As far as a drain goes, whether it remains offset or is moved to the center is more a matter of personal preference. I prefer them centered because I find the slope angles to be a bit steep when the drain is at one end. With it centered the slope is much more gradual and consistent. But it is in the middle and will be stepped on. I have installed a traditional Oatey PVC pan liner per the manuf.

I am at the point of deciding what backer board to use. I see your comments about Wedi and it looks like a very good option. Do you know if you can do this?

The Wedi site does not give any guidance nor do they provide a customer service phone number to ask questions like this. Everything seems to be email. Yes, Wedi panels can be used with a traditional mid pan and liner. Typically Wedi panels are used with their foam shower pans, like you mentioned, but also can be used with a mud bed with a waterproofing membrane on top. They have a product called Wedi Subliner Dry for this purpose. You could also use Wedi wall panels with a mud pan and liner.

The stiffer wall board can help keep The bottom of the board that overlaps the liner from flexing. Will this be okay after applying thinset and tile or should I take off the permabase in the areas of concern and apply a couple supporting cross studs? Waterproofing, in the grand scheme of things, is money well spent.

If you want to do the minimum then you could install some plastic or tar paper behind the studs and still be ahead. I am tiling an uninsulated basement floor. Can I apply foam board over the concrete floor using thinset, then install heating cables over this, then thinset the tiles over this?

It seams to be the way its done in England where they have been using electric heating cables extensively for a long time. Yes, this is good. Are there any shower wall or pan waterproofing methods that would cause problems with thinset adhesion to the backing surface? The best thing is to use high-quality thinset mortars and get good mortar coverage on the back of the tiles. I am replacing a fiberglass shower with a tile one and hiring a guy to build my shower pan.

I plan to use Duroc cement board on the walls. Can you really build a mud pan without a liner an d simply use Aqua Defence applied to the pan andDuroc and be waterproof?

This is a new concept to me. Should I look for someone to build a traditional pan or use a Tile Redi pan? Thanks for your advice. The waterproofing would need to extend up the walls to the shower head. However, I would caution you with this method. If you want to do one then I recommend two things: waterproof fabric in all seams, around the drain, and in the corners. Then do a flood test on the shower pan to make sure it works prior to tiling.

A flood test is where the drain is plugged then the shower is filled with water and allowed to sit for hours. Can NobleSeal or similar be installed over Densshield. My father in-law started a remodel of a walk-in shower and had put up Densshield before passing away. Noble tends to be more conservative with what they recommend as substrates.

Thank you for prompt reply. Thanks again. This is a very good article. That is why drywall of any kind failed horribly, giving tile a bad reputation. Many people still are resistant to tile because of it. The Building Codes finally banned the use of drywall of any kind behind a shower around I have never been a fan of the fiber cement, or cement boards, as you pointed out, they soak in moisture. I have demode showers with Durrock, and it had literally turned to sand on the lower part that was constantly wet.

Since then, all the Gypsum Board manufacturers have tile backer boards. Sclurter was the pioneer in the waterproof backer-boards and decoupling membranes. I attended a Schluter seminar around I have torn out many showers on concrete, and they were solid. I appreciate the response. Everyone is going to have their preferences but most important is doing things correctly. A lot of times people think the gypsum tile backers are ready to go once they are installed. But, like you mentioned, extra work is needed to get them to be waterproof.

Just loading them in the house vs. Is this accurate? I essentially want to tile the whole shower and not the ceiling. Do you see any issue with this design? Is there another option you recommend? I could potentially go with the Wedi Primo vs. You really only need Wedi Sealant up to the shower head, or so. You would need to tape and mud any seams above this point with thinset and mesh tape if you decide to forego the sealant at this level.

To accomplish this there is supposed to be plywood subfloor that is installed in between each floor joist. Wedi explains what their requirements are for this in their instructions for Ligno.

Hopefully that will make things more clear. Please let me know if you have further questions on this. Thank you sir! We are redoing a small bathroom. Removing the existing enclosure and tiling the walls.

My question is whether we should use Densshield behind the tile or Duralock? Someone told me what Densshield has an extra barrier to it. However, it would need an additional waterproof layer to stop water from penetrating through. A lot of times people will use a paint-on liquid waterproofing which is fairly economical. We are building a shower in our downstairs bathroom and have purchased Weidi Board for the walls in the shower along with their screws, sealant etc.

Our question is how much of a gap should we leave between the bottom of the Weidi board and the top of the base? And should we notch out the back of the Weidi board so it sits flat with the transition from the flange to the wall studs? We are looking to start this part of the job today and your valued advise would be greatly appreciated.

These are just my opinions. We are reinstalling a new adhesive shower enclosure that was previously glued to green board.

I believe the green board was installed with not enough clearance from the shower pan as mold and mildew crept up the existing boards. When we tore out the existing enclosure it pulled most of the paper from the boards so I would like to replace them. My question is, what material do you recommend using if we are planning on replacing the enclosure with adhesive panels?

Thanks in advance. I stumbled on this site after reading about backerboards and which one to use. I have used Kerdi membrane on hardie backer but I have become a little impatient with weekend diy work at home. So I am reading to take the plunge into the foam boards. My problem is that I just bought the schluter niches, and surround flange, etc.

I did see some Goboard and Durock foam board, and Wedi. Am I tiling the entire bathroom and bedroom? I know, there is a question coming… here it is. Can I then mix wedi board with schluter niches?

They same question would apply to USG Durock foam board. I just want to get this over in a week or two or less. Did you get the question? Great site, I do appreciate how you explain the differences and convince me to move into Foam board. You might be interested in my posts on building shampoo niches. I just went to a trade show recently and everyone either has a foam panel or is coming out with one.

Hopefully, the prices will come down accordingly. I will check how to build those and saving money always makes the mrs. Does this have advantages or disadvantages over the Kerdi for wall or flooring applications? Or is any membrane overkill on a floor maybe just a liquid sealer over cement board? So the two different products, Kerdi and Ditra, have two different uses. So as far as Ditra vs cement board for floors, it just depends on what you want to accomplish. But they both perform essentially the same function: to provide an underlayment for tile over a subfloor.

However, it has a minimum size requirement of 2 inch x 2 inch. Is there an option to wedi pans for the shower floor? Second floor bathroom with sub floors? Some of these companies will make custom size foam pans, also. Take a look at my Shower Waterproofing Crash Course for more info on this system. I was planning on using DensArmor Plus paperless drywall panels outside the wet areas. DensArmor is made with a fiberglass facing. If the seam will be covered with tile then I would just use alkaline resistant mesh tape.

The data sheet says it can be covered with typical wall coverings, including tile, so thinset and alkaline resistant tape would work fine, I would guess. Emailed tech support and they say that yes the fiberglass facing on the panels is alkali resistant and yes it will take tile mortar without degrading. Sounds like a sure thing. What is the minimum this wall should extend beyond the tub skirting my though is to run the tile all the way to the floor in this area?

Also, whether you run tile all the way around the end of the wall or just keep the tile on each side is another design decision. It will increase the difficulty of the install of you tie both sides of the wall into one another.

Your grout joints will so have to line up and the chair rail will have to be mitered around the end. Pro tip: make sure that your toilet will fit before you tile the floor and the wall behind. Some toilets are right up to the sheetrock walk with no tile behind.

Hi, and thank you in advance for your help. This will be for shower walls. Would you put blocking behind the horizontal seams for a foamboard product? I personally have not added blocking at the seams and found it to be sufficient once the sealant was dry. If using a porcelain shower pan how can my contractor tie that to Durock foam or Kerdi Board? Presently he plans to use Greenboard but I will ask him to use either of the above materials. I plan on tiling halfway up the other 3 walls in the bathroom.

I am new to this amazing forum. I really enjoy all of the hints, tips, and opinions. I am hoping someone can advise me on my upcoming project. I am tiling a large shower with a 10 foot ceiling. Cement board with Kerdi membrane will be used for the shower walls all the way up above the shower head. We are using a Kerdi shower pan with a dry pack mortar extension, of course covered and finished with Kerdi membrane as well. It will be water tested before tiling.

OR, Could the advise have been to use a thinset to affix the cement board to the Kerdi shower pan and then membrane over the whole thing for waterproofing? The Kerdi pan comes with a recessed hole as part of the slope. Or will it not matter since the board would still be sloped?

If I am using Hardi cement board, two questions should I put a plastic vapor barrier behind it no second, should I still use a liquid waterproofed over the backer board.

Any help is greatly appreciated. I have a post on the different methods for waterproofing a shower. But the short answer is that I think a liquid waterproofing on the surface is better for most cases. I then found out that Diamondback requires modified tile mortar whereas the kerdi board and kerdi band requires unmodified. The cheap way forward for me now is to seal the entire wall area with Aquadefense and fiberglass tape. A more expensive alternative is to just replace all of the Diamondback with Kerdiboard and stick with the Schlutter system.

I applied an additional layer of Aqua-defense over the tape while the first layer was still wet to completely infiltrate the mesh.

I also ran the mesh in this way so that it overhung the Densshield by 1cm where it meets the flange. Great info on your site. We are waterproofing and tiling 3 walls of a new shower install and considering timing the ceiling over the shower enclosure also.

My question. What product should we use to attach to the ceiling trusses that will be firm enough to hold the tile and not sag and at the same time be easy to work with and waterproof. We are planning on using either cement board with a paint on waterproofing or wedi board for the walls. Will eithe if these work for the ceiling?? Thanks for you help, Mark. Yes, either will work for the ceiling. Wedi board is a lot easier to install on the ceiling and waterproof but either board will work.

You do need 16 inch center spacing still. I am about to start my first tiling project, the bathroom. My question is about the non-shower areas. Will this make for a warmer and dry floor, or should I just tile the concrete and then put throw rugs down? Elizabeth — That method sounds fine. What about the screws for holding the AdvanTech to the concrete. Thank you so much for responding so quickly! You want a solid surface for the tile.

Todd, Thank you for all the info. I am removing drywall from finished, uninsulated stud walls in my basement and will have closed cell spray foam applied.

Question 1 — Would an adhesive be sufficient for holding the concrete, xps and advantech together without fasteners? I am hoping to be able to leave the current stud wall in place. I have read nearly all of the basement floor questions and answers and notice that although you initially recommend sleepers over the XPS and under the AdvanTech, you seem to accept the elimination of sleepers in subsequent posts, so………..

As the house is very old I needed to replace all of the beams and posts, and I just finished doing this. Do you see anything wrong with this method? If this would compromise the basement moisture-control I would add the foam and floor first but I am worried that the weight would compress the floor over time.

What would you suggest, or would both work? David — The reality is there are so many ways to insulate a basement slab. The sleeper version works well when there is a chance of a bit of water. For really dry basements you can put the foam directly down. Sometimes sleepers are easier to fasten down then you can get a good solid plywood layer down. All structure should sit on the foundation, NOT foam. He has installed and is still installing it but he has also seen many cases of ant infestation with the ants boaring tunnels into the XPS and doing something with the contents — moving it, eating it, who knows.

Have you heard of this? To mitigate this I was thinking of wrapping the exposed ends with the tyvec tape — maybe that will keep them from starting their journey??? Good idea…….. I was just wondering if you had come across this ant problem before. David — California sure does have insect problems…I wonder if Termites like it as well? If you get an answer be sure to share with everyone here! There is so much misinformation out there concerning basement finishing that I almost gave up my project.

I have concrete walls and floor and there are no water issues other than the ocassional dampness during the summer. I painted the walls with dri-lock. XPS will raise the floor too much. I know from your website there is no perfect way to finish the basement but please give me your thoughts on the way I intend to finish my basement. Do you see any problems with it?

Thanking you in advance Demetri. Hi Todd, I have read much of your website and I am unsure about 2 things. Do you leave a space? Do you seal it with spray foam? Thanks Again Demetri. Do you recommend vapor barriers for the floors?

Will DriCore, Delta-Fl or Barricade tiles prevent inwards drying and cause wetness to be trapped underneath? Victoria — Are you referring to the report by the Building Science Consortium?

The issue here is keeping that moisture away from materials that might promote mold. I recommend a vapor barrier under any type of wood, carpet or non tile flooring.

Although the energy savings of sub-slab insulation are not as significant as basement wall insulation, such insulations do offer a significant improvement in comfort and moisture damage resistance including against summertime condensation. When slab insulation is provided, a sheet polyethylene vapor barrier should be located over the rigid insulation and in direct contact with the concrete slab.

As the slab will only be able to dry upward, the slab should be allowed to dry before finishes are applied. Impermeable interior floor finishes such as vinyl floor coverings should also be avoided. Obviously, this is not an option for us since we will have to insulate on top of the floor.

Would you use poly on top of the concrete or just foam ot DriCore etc. Victoria — I highly respect most of their work. What I have a hard time with is this notion of having to let it dry inward. To me, there is no good reason to let it do that.

Concrete is always full of water, it will never completely dry out. So…letting it dry inward means letting it expose water vapor to finished flooring materials. Barricade and DriCore are both good products. They will both make the floor feel warmer and they provide a nice airspace under the flooring. Thank you. What about the walls? Why not install poly between concrete walls and XPS following the same logic?

Victoria — Yes poly on the floor is a good idea. There is some literature that suggests that 2 inches of XPS foam may in fact be a semi permeable although I think the amount is negligible. In response to the comment regarding placing a vapor barrier down, then the tiles, i was in contact with a rep for barricade tiles and I asked:.

Our tiles are milled to create an air tight, gasket seal vapor barrier. You do not need, and we do not recommend, anything other than our tile to be laid on the concrete. So just an FYI for people that are thinking of doing this. I thought it would be good to place a 6 mil barrier too, but according to them, they say no.

Steve — Thanks for sharing. They are trying to sell their product with as many benefits as necessary. Saying you can eliminate the vapor barrier is a plus in their book. I would like to thank you for taking the time to answer my questions.

I have found your remarks to very informative in what seems to be a very controversial issue. I like many others would like your advice on finishing my basement in Northern Illinois. After reading all your advice from others I have some questions regarding my project. Will those supports need to be pressure treated as they will sit on the foundation wall?

By doing the floor first you can better insulate the entire slab. I would still use PT in case you get any water that might wick up. I would install blocking between the rim joist and first joist, up off the concrete, then no need. XPS if I will have a pool table? Thanks again, Mike. Having trouble finding Advantech locally.

Also having second thoughts on the sub-flooring. Thinking about using DRI-core. Have you any thoughts about this product? If I use these panels do they need to be secured to the concrete? Since the walls are built on these panels will I need a P. What do you feel would be the best approach? Any considerations I should take? However, it will make the floor MUCH warmer. According to their site there should be no attachement:.

Should the insulation set on top of the DRIcore or extend all the way to the concrete floor? Also would the floor be warmer if I use EXP vs. Thanks, Mike.

XPS foam will definitely be warmer. However, DRIcore will provide a huge benefit over flooring on the concrete.

DRIcore is far easier and faster. Hi Todd, With the advice and help from your site I have insulated my basement walls and I am preparing for the floors.

I have a question re the adhesive for the floor. There is more moisture on the floor than the walls so I want to make sure I use the correct adhesive there. What do you recommend for the floors: caulking adhesive like PL or the spray foam like Great stuff?

David — Either one will likely work ok. Just wanted t say great article. You techniques and building science are definitely sound, and endorsed by other contractors.

Mike even used a similar technique for walls on a second story addition that went wrong from a previous contractor, where he used rigid foam as exterior sheathing with the proper bracing of the structure to take into account the lack of plywood sheathing , and spray foam onto that to really bump up the R value.

My basement is currently finished on the outside walls and flooring. I am not happy with the current flooring colour and finish. It is currently carpet and an out of date carpet at that. There is also no bathroom in the basement, and I will be adding a sewer pump and piping in the floor for that. My questions:. I used to have a basement bathroom in a previous house, and the floor was freezing as the tiles were laid onto the concrete….

I want to avoid that. I want to use a hydronic system. Can I add the pex in between the strapping to add the in floor heat? What problems could I anticipate other than the obvious leaks, etc?

Can I anticipate any problems such as expansion? Does this technique seem like a sound way of tying into existing insulated walls? Thanks again for all your time with the article, and I really enjoyed the answers to the questions of others you provided to others on this page.

Ryan — Thanks for the kind words. Laminate and engineered floors work great with radiant heat. I have engineered floors in my home and they work great. Yes — I would be sure to use low expansion foam. Not in my opinion for areas with tile.

Hey Todd, Great info here. This has become my best go to spot for basement info. The thing is. Option 1. Given that my basement is dry well, as dry as basements are.

How would you approach this if ceiling height and cost was a concern, but you wanted to be sure it was done right? Do you want to insulate the floor? Do you just want to keep things dry? How much headroom do you have available? Depending on how you answer those then you can select a method. There are LOTS of methods including in addition to plywood and foam. However, they will make the floor warmer. I guess it makes to insulate and keep dry. And if so, I already have my walls up so, would I seal the poly up just as it meets my pressure treated bottom plate?

Your method will work fine. If your walls are up already i would just tuck that poly up the walls a few inches and tack it in place. Todd, I was just wondering If you had to choose between dri core and barricade which would you go with? Barricade will give you some insulation value but the system is tight to the floor. DriCore will give you an air space below but no insulation value other than the air space.

So…the questions is…which is more important to your basement, insulation or an air space? Any past water issues? That really is the issue. I will be in a new construuction home starting later this month so I hope there are no water issues but you never know.

It was my understanding that the barricade had channels that helped drain and dry any water that gets under it also so I was leaning that way. I think it does have some channels. With barricade should I do the floors first and then build the walls on top of it or walls first then barricade up to the wall?

I know with the XPS you are supposed to fill the gaps along the perimeter with spray foam, the barricade instructions say to leave a half inch gap against the walls should I spray foam it as well? Also they say its not necessary but would you lay plastic under the barricade? If so would you tape the seams or just overlap it?

I would leave the gap open, that way if any water does get behind the XPS is will fall into that gap. Would venting the Dricore to a mechanical room be sufficient to allow the condensation to evaporate?

Do I need some type of ventilation to draw that moisture from under the sub floor? The idea here is to give good separation between concrete and other building materials that might be conducive to mold and mildew. But frankly I doubt it makes much difference. I think that having the air space under the panels is sufficient to help with drying. Not trying to repeat questions here.. I did read the whole page!

But… I think the wall should be insulated first in my situation?? So: insulate walls…bring flooring within a quarter inch of wall…. Sound OK? Thanks again for all your help!! Roger — Your detail should work fine. Todd, One more question!! I need to remove the paint in order to bond the leveler properly. I may try a shot blaster too.

I wanted to pass an idea by you…kind of a variation on the sleeper method to save some head room. And would offset the cost of the composite material. I would then install laminate on top of the Advantech. Should I be putting any plastic down? I think my floor would be similar in principle to the square tile subfloor products. Any potential leakage would still get to the drain and there would be an air gap too.

Thank you for taking the time to advise on this. If you agree that I am on the right track you will have succeeded in removing a HUGE road block in my project!!!! I have done numerous how to posts on car related items. I also did a detailed post with pictures when I took out my basement center lally column and installed some big MC-Channels.

Roger — Your approach should work pretty well. I guess my only question would be whether you plan on putting any substantial loading on that floor like a pool table. Other than that it should work very well. Definitely putting the pool table down there! I thought the Trex would be strong enough?

It may very well be. This is a new basement with no walls, etc. My question is will I be able to build all my walls directly on top of the insulated floor? Regardless of the approach you choose, XPS has a fairly high compressive strength. Some folks choose the sleepers because they want to ensure that the plywood is attached to something else vs trying to attach it directly to the concrete. Both methods will work fine.

Do you have any articles or videos on building a load bearing wall in the basement? Currently we have load bearing beams ran down the center of the house with temporary jacks supporting it. We plan on building a wall which will have 3 bedroom doors throughout the entire distance. I understand you have to have load bearing headers above the doors but is the rest of the framing normal? Thanks again for the help. Lots of your question is best answered by your local building official.

However, in general here are the basics. Depending on the size doors you can likely get away with dimensional lumber door headers.

Having said that, if you go to your local lumber yard one that has an engineering department or specification group they can generally design the header and tell you what size options are available.

If you have a wider door they may specify an engineered lumber header. The other issue at play is the foundation. A traditional slab is typically not strong enough alone to take bearing wall loads. Thanks for all the great information. In regards to the concrete supporting the load bearing wall how do I determine this? The house is a single level modular home with a walkout basement. It was built in We purchased this on foreclosure and have no information on the concrete psi strength. Sometimes a contractor will pour a strip footing the entire length of the house instead of trying to form up a footing pad at each column.

I would recommend going to your local building code office, and seeing if foundation plans were filed when the building permit was issued. Most states, cities and towns do require this information to pull a permit. If you can find those drawings they will shed a ton of light on the situation.

Why are you switching to a load bearing wall? Are you going to remove the beam that is supported by the columns? The basement is completely unfinished. All they have supporting the beam is them steel temporary jacks. There are no columns at all. The concrete floor shows no sign of them installing any columns either.

The load bearing beam is down the center of the basement. First of all, your site is fantastic. I have learned more from here and building science than anywhere else — the comments helps too. The slab is in great shape, no cracks or major high or low spots. My questions are:. Can my floor be insulated using sleepers to level it, or should I use self-leveling compound? Does it even need to be leveled? The first question is, does it feel as though the floor is unlevel or do you only know it based on measurements?

The key here is comfort and how furnishings will sit, dressers sitting so they look level, etc. If you need to level it there are many options. There are some commercially available ones that can do thicker but they are usually installed by specialty contractors. This poses a problem with the foam however, as each layer would be a different thickness and that might be fairly impractical. For leveling yes, for insulating no. Depending on the age of the tile there is a very good chance it contains asbestos.

If you can leave it that would be a good thing! Both would work fine. Obviously the more foam the better R value. Thanks again for visiting the site. Its only really noticable near the old sump pit where there is a more exaggerated slope.

Would it work to lay the foam down and cut some pieces to fill in the dip near the sump pit, or spray foam the dip maybe? Or should I just foam right against the concrete and level that part with sleepers on top? Knowing that I can at the very least begin insulating my floor is a relief! I would just shim the area near the old sump pit.

This way you help prevent water from coming up from below. Awsome site thanks! I have looked and asked and you have given more information on this one page than I have found anywhere. I am starting the design process and hoping you could help with a few questions. First the basics two year old home, no moisture issues in basement as yet; 9 ft poured concrete walls with fiberglass insulation in rim joists; builder installed fiberglass on walls to below grade; home in southern Ohio.

I plan to install a drop ceiling if this matters. I have a large area square ft that I plan to leave unfinished with storage and utilities and do not plan to insulate walls or floor will leave builder installed insulation in this area on walls. If I insulate floor in proposed finished area how do I handle the floor transition at the door opening? Am I wrong in this method? I planned to lay on side longways like sheetrock then cut sheets to fit at top.

Is this even possible without removing? I was going to sheetrock both sides and install kraft faced fiberglass insulation kraft facing warm side. Is this sufficient? Todd — Glad you found the site useful. The builder installed fiberglass on the concrete walls really bothers me. Is the fiberglass in direct contact with concrete? The floor height issue is one that ultimately leaves many people opting out of insulating their basement floor.

However, there are some ways you can deal with the issue that are not overly disruptive. The problem however is a code issue.

You could also create a ramped transition if it really bothers you. The code requires that stair heights match within a certain tolerance.

You could rebuild the stairs OUCH! Or you leave an area at the base of the stairs un-insulated, probably tile it, then have a step up into the finished space with the insulated floor.

This still leaves you with the issues I mentioned above for the utility space. Again you could try ramping it. That will work fine. When you do them vertically they stand up better during the drying process. The best approach is to loosen the box and slip foam behind it. The insulation is in direct contact with the concrete. It appears to be CertainTeed fibergalass with perforated white polypropylene backing.

Here is a link to their site:. The house hase a black rubberized sealant on the outside of the foundation walls. We have had record rainfall for the last couple of months and overall for the year and not a drop knock wood in the basement. If I do not insulate the floor I seem to avoid the transition issues. Can I still do the 6 mil poly and Advan Tech per mfgs. The lot will tell you more about your likelihood of having water than anything else. For my homes…. The reality is tile will be very forgiving if we ever get water.

Lots of good information on your website, finding it very useful. I plan on installing a mix of carpet and tiles on top of the plywood, so I would like to have the increased strength from the plywood and sleepers being directly attached to the concrete mainly for the tiles, but need to save as much height as possible.

Does this seem like a reasonable option? I think your approach is a good solution. I would use something like Ditra for the tile underlayment. As a test, a year after installing, I removed a small sample of XPS. Moisture is on the XPS, not on the concrete block. I cut out a bunch more samples. There is no moisture down near the floor, gradually more all the way up to the 2lb spray foam, which is right at ground level.

No moisture behind the spray foam. South side of the house has the most moisture but there is a small amount on the north side. I am sure the ground is moist, but I resloped my landscaping before putting up the foam board, and my house is near the top of a hill… I also put two coats of Drylok on the wall. So the problem is not standing water driving in. Basement smells and feels dry. I am tempted to tear everything out and ventilate the wall instead of insulating it… not fun.

I am also tempted to believe the wall is sealed up enough to not cause any health problem if mold were to start growing, but that would be me being stubborn-stupid.

Mark — The moisture is located between the foam and concrete correct? The XPS acts as a vapor barrier and keeps that moisture from entering the framing. Am I correct about the location? Yes, moisture is between the foam board and cinder block. Just hanging out, having a good time, not going anywhere. You say this is expected, i. Due to hot humid outside air and the coolness of the cinder block? The concrete blocks are full of moisture, all the time inside the micropoors of the concrete , that moisture can condensate and get trapped between the concrete and foam.

Foam and concrete are not food sources for mold so mold will not grow back there. I agree there are no problems yet at least, especially since the block is still pearl white. Do you have any recommendations for air quality monitoring? All I find is bad reviews. Ideally I could give myself some peace of mind by checking the air periodically to confirm it is within safe limits.

Even more ideal would be constantly checking levels like a carbon monoxide detector … need Einstein to climb out of the grave and invent that. Without a food source mold will not grow. Focus on controlling humidity and air exchanges. All will be ok. I am close to starting construction. Could contraction cause a problem with such an arrangement? The floor will be put down first, then the walls. For the non-weight bearing interior walls, they will be built above the insulation.

The question is what should they be built on top of: the XPS, the sleepers, or the advantech? I would let that slab cure as long as you can before installing the floor.

Just to get as much moisture out before you lock it in. My contracter, architect, and structural engineer all recommended against attaching the sleepers to the concrete and to instead glue them to the insulation and the insulation will be glued to the concrete. But if movement is a concern, can any adhesive be trusted long-term? If glueing sleepers is a bad idea, is that just your opinion or is there some documentation I can refer my builder to because unless he changes his recomendation, I will go with what he recommends.

Thanks for the page — it is a great resource. I am considering using another product due to the low ceiling height: Roberts Harmony 3-in From a quick inspection of their posted specifications it probably will work fine as a vapor barrier but it only provides 0. I commented a few months back about leveling my basement floor.

I want to insulate and use Advantech, but here are the obstacles and my options as I see it:. The main beam running under my floor joists in the center of the basement is low. Is that an acceptable subfloor? Will it be rigid enough for sheet vinyl? In your situation you might want to consider not insulating the floor or possibly installing an electric radiant heat system covered with a thin layer of flowable fill.

Thanks for the info. Do you know approx what I can expect to pay for something like that? I have old vinyl tile all over it now and would prefer to just cover it up… which was my goal with the insulation and OSB.

You certainly can install a layer of plywood over the old tile. Cost for something like that will vary greatly. The first questions is how many electrical, plumbing and heating interferences are there? Those might be very expensive to re-route.

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